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sick_climba
Aug 5, 2006, 7:15 AM
Post #526 of 3255
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[quote="angry"]In reply to: Special people like to climb too. |
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sandbag
Aug 5, 2006, 7:25 AM
Post #527 of 3255
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Is it just the color, or is that veined gold deposits in that rock, likely limestone, from a metamorphic/diabase contact....wild....i look for this stuff for a living, i should have just come here sooner
http://www.cas-neuchatel.ch/...miroir/025_small.jpg
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builttospill
Aug 5, 2006, 9:28 AM
Post #528 of 3255
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In reply to: Dude looks like he's climbed a few pole's in his day.
Wow, truly well played.
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deltav
Aug 10, 2006, 11:41 PM
Post #530 of 3255
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what the hell is that
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redlegrangerone
Aug 11, 2006, 12:37 AM
Post #531 of 3255
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What is that Angry?
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stymingersfink
Aug 11, 2006, 1:50 AM
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That definitely belongs in the "Anchor" thread... nice work, angry!
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fmd
Aug 11, 2006, 3:01 AM
Post #534 of 3255
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Man.....what would you have done if you ran out of slings??? Used your underwear???........... :shock:
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cjsimpso
Aug 11, 2006, 4:45 AM
Post #535 of 3255
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I hope you didn't get thirsty farther up...
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s_tambling
Aug 12, 2006, 1:38 AM
Post #536 of 3255
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what the hell were you thinking? :shock:
who tought you how to place anchors?
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veganboyjosh
Aug 12, 2006, 8:23 AM
Post #537 of 3255
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does the kn rating of the nalgene change based on its contents?
well done, angry, well done. kinda puts a new spin on "the leader must not fall", don't it?
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lunabruandabby
Aug 12, 2006, 1:35 PM
Post #538 of 3255
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In reply to: what the hell were you thinking? :shock: who tought you how to place anchors?
Who taught you how to spell?
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ja1484
Aug 12, 2006, 5:16 PM
Post #539 of 3255
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Jesus Christ, sometimes I think some of you are trying to die.
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curtis_g
Aug 13, 2006, 4:20 PM
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In reply to: Jesus Christ, sometimes I think some of you are trying to die.
haha, such a good comment I expected to look at the user name and see Curt or J_ung...hilarious, man.
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angry
Aug 13, 2006, 4:46 PM
Post #541 of 3255
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This is kind of funny.
-First off, Astroman is 11c and that particular pitch was like 5.8. If we'd made it that far, it wouldn't be too likely that there would be a shockload on the anchor.
-Secondly, on the lead I had used every single piece I brought that would fit there (I even slung an old fixed cam as well). Those 2 .75's were the largest cams on my rack.
-Third, the one in the flake was good but the flake could flex and it would come out. The one below is fully open and placed passive. It sort of sucked. The nalgene prevented the flake from flexing, thus making the good cam better.
-4th, it's a pretty spacious ledge, I was well braced. I wasn't hanging on the anchor.
And finally, what would you naysayers have done? 120 feet from your second, on a good ledge, and only enough gear to build a crappy belay? You only have 3 choices.
1. Build the same crappy belay without the nalgene (even weaker)
2. Build the same anchor I built
3. Sit there, 1 pitch from the top, and wait for a rescue.
As soon as my second got to me, we reinforced the shit out of the anchor and finished the route with no issues.
An FWIW, both of us agreed that the anchor could "at least" have held body weight or more.
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ja1484
Aug 13, 2006, 5:29 PM
Post #542 of 3255
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Hey man, your call. My personal response would be that you should carry enough extra gear that you're able to rig proper anchors no matter what you sew with...most of the community would agree I think. I'm not trying to be snarky, I'm just sayin, you only get one shot at life.
Next time around, rack up a few extras beyond what the guidebook recommends :lol:
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redlegrangerone
Aug 13, 2006, 5:38 PM
Post #543 of 3255
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I guess I am in the other camp. I would be glad my partner had enough imagination to be able to build an anchor when things were less than perfect.
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watchme
Aug 13, 2006, 6:18 PM
Post #545 of 3255
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Registered: Jun 26, 2003
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In reply to: My personal response would be that you should carry enough extra gear that you're able to rig proper anchors no matter what you sew with
Are you actually saying that you have never run out of the right size of gear, either mid-pitch or at the anchor?
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curtis_g
Aug 13, 2006, 6:21 PM
Post #546 of 3255
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In reply to: In reply to: My personal response would be that you should carry enough extra gear that you're able to rig proper anchors no matter what you sew with Are you actually saying that you have never run out of the right size of gear, either mid-pitch or at the anchor?
I don't know about him but me...never at the anchor...mid pitch, sure, you just gotta keep climbing.
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ja1484
Aug 13, 2006, 6:26 PM
Post #547 of 3255
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In reply to: I guess I am in the other camp. I would be glad my partner had enough imagination to be able to build an anchor when things were less than perfect.
Unless it's atomic bombproof, I don't call it an anchor. Call it John Long syndrome. Risk your ass if you want to.
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petsfed
Aug 13, 2006, 8:26 PM
Post #548 of 3255
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In reply to: In reply to: I guess I am in the other camp. I would be glad my partner had enough imagination to be able to build an anchor when things were less than perfect. Unless it's atomic bombproof, I don't call it an anchor. Call it John Long syndrome. Risk your ass if you want to.
These words will come back to haunt you should you ever get more than half a mile from the road. I gaurantee it.
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ja1484
Aug 13, 2006, 8:34 PM
Post #549 of 3255
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Care to elaborate?
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grimpiperx
Aug 13, 2006, 10:40 PM
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Registered: May 30, 2004
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As in you are going to take risks. I think he just found it stupid to say "risk your ass if you want to" on a site about rockclimbing
You have to take risks. Yea minimize them blah blah but you do take them.
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