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To retro or not?
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Poll: To retro or not?
Add the bolts 19 / 16%
Leave it be 101 / 84%
120 total votes
 

quiteatingmysteak


Jun 9, 2007, 7:20 PM
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
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Re: [dingus] To retro or not? [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
OK I'll splain it.

This is not about the FA 'team.' This is about the history of our sport and respect for the past, for elders, and for the traditions that led to, well, all this.

Respect for the style of first ascent is a bedrock layer of American climbing tradition. There are lots of us who still subscribe to this school of thought. You must forgive us when some relative noob comes along and tries to murder our sport.

You needn't shit on all who came before you as you stand upon their shoulders to reach the next plateau. Show some respect!

Why? Because new routes are not a commodity. They are a gift. Maybe you don't care. Maybe you don't even know what's involved in new routing, save what you've read.

Or maybe not. Maybe you just don't give a flying fuck about the elders of this sport, or what they did.

But a lot of us do. And like it or not, respecting the style of the first ascent has been important heretofore.

Now the noobs of today are going to be the old dogs of tomorrow and what they choose to do along the way is up to them of course.

But if they trample on the works of those who preceeded them, rest assured those who follow in their subsequent footsteps will obliterate their works in turn.

Its a simple matter of respect.

Now to the action side of the issue - you 8flood8 are perfectly within your rights as an individual to go retro the route in question. No one requires you to check with anyone (presuming you don't have to kowtow to the State of Texas,).

Go bolt it right now. I would only ask that you have the courage to take responsibility for it.

Anyway, you have that right and you need no one's permission.

However, I too have the right, and so too do your local peers, to go chop the fuck out of those bolts, in broad daylight, right in your face.

That's what a lack of respect can lead to, HAS led to. Fine if you want that sort of confrontation. Go for it.

JUust remember the Alamo when you're old and your projects are paved over in the name of progress. Sip a karma milkshake while you're at it.

Please don't kill our sport.

DMT


22 pages of replies.


this is all you need to read. Trophy here.


healyje


Jun 10, 2007, 4:00 AM
Post #527 of 534 (3152 views)
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Registered: Aug 22, 2004
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Re: [8flood8] To retro or not? [In reply to]
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8flood8 wrote:
my attitude stems from an obsessiveness with safety...

This is clearly the heart of the problem and you are not alone in this. As I said, in '76 you could see this in the eyes of all the sport-climbers-to-be when you walked by their nervous groups. Placing gear is a craft and admittedly not everyone is good or comfortable doing it. And even some of those that were simply couldn't deal with the fear inherently involved with trad climbing.

The difference between then and now is then all those folks had very short careers as climbers, they all found other, less serious pursuits, in short order. Sport climbing came along for entirely different reasons, but one side-effect of it was it allow these types of folks to keep climbing when they'd have been long gone otherwise.

It's easy and common to confuse and misrepresent fear as 'safety'. The essential point is - climbing isn't safe or dangerous - climbers are. Like the old NRA saying - "rocks don't kill people, people do" (well, ok, the occasional rock fall does kill one every now and then...). I find it so ironic that the motivations behind the inital sport climbs and gyms has now been so thoroughly co-opted and corrupted as to be unrecognizable.

Climbing over the course of the past twenty five years has been totally co-opted by a sea-change in percentages. Wild, cutting-edge climbing still happens, but by an incredibly smaller and ever-shrinking percentage of the total number of climbers versus BSP. Today, the overwhelming majority of 'climbers' are wholly bolt-enabled, completely risk-averse, and by-and-large unable to effectively evaluate or manage risk.

8flood8, don't worry, you are well represented and likely truly do speak for the vast majority of today's climbers - that's exactly why Fracture pushes his concept of 'democracy' so hard. Count me in the lingering insurgency of those that know and remember the difference.


(This post was edited by healyje on Jun 10, 2007, 4:05 AM)


curt


Jun 10, 2007, 5:53 AM
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
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Re: [8flood8] To retro or not? [In reply to]
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8flood8 wrote:
ahh...

<enter the pot>

anything else witty to say curt? :)

Perhaps. It's predicated upon any further retarded comments on your part.

Curt


fracture


Jun 10, 2007, 3:48 PM
Post #529 of 534 (3120 views)
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Registered: Jun 13, 2003
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Re: [dingus] To retro or not? [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
Its ironic that the two most vocal retrobolt advocates on the board don't even seem to know the difference between sport and trad.

Please keep your pseudo-science bullshit to yourself. (Or buy books about linguistics if you don't want to sound like a moron.)

Or from Wittgenstein:




fracture


Jun 10, 2007, 3:54 PM
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Re: [healyje] To retro or not? [In reply to]
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healyje wrote:
8flood8 wrote:
my attitude stems from an obsessiveness with safety...

This is clearly the heart of the problem and you are not alone in this.

This is probably obvious to anyone who's read the whole thread, though I figure I'd reiterate one more time for posterity (is this thread ever going to die?): my attitude does not stem from an obsessiveness with safety. (Despite some possible superficial similarities, flood and I very much do not have the same position here.)


(This post was edited by fracture on Jun 10, 2007, 3:59 PM)


8flood8


Jun 15, 2007, 7:02 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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Re: [fracture] To retro or not? [In reply to]
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Dude, Jordo, you W O N ! ! !


caughtinside


Jun 15, 2007, 8:31 PM
Post #532 of 534 (3042 views)
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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Re: [8flood8] To retro or not? [In reply to]
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Yes. Bravo, Jordo, good show.


notapplicable


Jun 16, 2007, 2:48 AM
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Registered: Aug 31, 2006
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Re: [8flood8] To retro or not? [In reply to]
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Now was that really necessary. This thing had almost made it to page two, AKA the distant past.


8flood8


Jun 16, 2007, 2:43 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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Re: [notapplicable] To retro or not? [In reply to]
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yet you couldn't resist the pull and you bumped it again...

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