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dingus
Jun 16, 2005, 5:15 PM
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
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Hah! I wasn't in any of those groups. That makes me special.
Cheers to satan's shadow!
DMT
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fracture
Jun 17, 2005, 1:02 AM
Post #53 of 74
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Registered: Jun 13, 2003
Posts: 1814
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In reply to: In reply to: gullich sure didn't need no tick marks. ugh, i agree....the tick marks, imho, taint both the picture and the solo...
I think tick (and other chalk) marks are very aesthetic. (I'm not kidding).
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cintune
Jun 17, 2005, 1:50 AM
Post #54 of 74
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1293
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So, uptightclimbr is really an okay dude once you meet him, then? Not that I'm ever likely to, but such a presumed vote of confidence might be a helpful thing to keep in mind the next time he decides to unleash Dr. Jekyll on someone's unworthy ass.
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alpnclmbr1
Jun 17, 2005, 2:31 AM
Post #55 of 74
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Registered: Dec 10, 2002
Posts: 3060
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Dude, you said the last time you did it was what? 27 years ago. I can't remember the exit sequence from ten years ago. Wouldn't expect you to.
peace
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bvb
Jun 17, 2005, 3:23 AM
Post #57 of 74
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Registered: Mar 3, 2003
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In reply to: I can't remember the exit sequence from ten years ago.
waitafukkin minnit. you been going on and on about where the crux is, and now yer saying you can't remember the exit sequence?
WTF???
and last time i was there was not 27 years ago (altho that would be a fukkin' proud claim), it was 1988 with my homie tom lindner. 17 years, by my rekknin'.
wrd to ya mutha, uh, i mean, you talkin' to me???
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alpnclmbr1
Jun 17, 2005, 3:34 AM
Post #58 of 74
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I don't need to remember the sequence in order to tell the difference between the crux and the finish jugs.
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karlbaba
Jun 17, 2005, 4:00 AM
Post #59 of 74
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Registered: Jul 10, 2002
Posts: 1159
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I remember the exit sequence perfectly.
You climb out the bomber crack as fast as you can. when it runs out, you look around frantically, start to get pumped, get pumped, clip into gear and aid out to the lip.
I'd do it ropeless for sure if somebody paid me.
I wouldn't do it gearless for any price
Peace
karl
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melekzek
Jun 17, 2005, 4:19 AM
Post #60 of 74
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Registered: Nov 16, 2002
Posts: 1456
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you all miss the big picture here.....
bring back short shorts!..... seriously...
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bvb
Jun 17, 2005, 6:09 AM
Post #61 of 74
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In reply to: I remember the exit sequence perfectly. You climb out the bomber crack as fast as you can. when it runs out, you look around frantically, start to get pumped, get pumped, clip into gear and aid out to the lip. I'd do it ropeless for sure if somebody paid me. I wouldn't do it gearless for any price Peace karl
yeah, the thing's 5.10 until it goes to thin hands about 24" from the lip....then you get a decent inch-and-a-half jamb, grab the "horn", cut your feet loose, and swing your right leg for a toe hook over the lip.
back in the day (84-85-86) woodward had it so wired he could hang off the lip from twin toe hooks, chalk up, cackle, the lever up and roll over. wired.
it really is easy 11d, if you got the proper beta. but there is NO WAY i'd ever even consider soloing it. the psych factor would be horrendous.
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outsideguyzak
Jun 18, 2005, 4:36 AM
Post #63 of 74
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Registered: Mar 24, 2005
Posts: 169
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does he have to campus like that, or is he just doing it for the camera crew?
Either way, the dude can climb...
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flowerpowerlover
Jun 18, 2005, 9:17 AM
Post #64 of 74
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Registered: Jun 29, 2004
Posts: 49
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yeah, no way that pads would fit...hmm
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golsen
Jun 18, 2005, 1:00 PM
Post #65 of 74
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Registered: Mar 1, 2005
Posts: 361
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kudos to heinz! And thanks to some of you spraylords for the thread entertainment....
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msamet
Jun 18, 2005, 2:16 PM
Post #66 of 74
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Registered: Jan 18, 2005
Posts: 16
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Good job to Heinz for a ballsy accomplishment, tick marks or no. Anyway, last time I checked (if those are his tick marks), he's far from the only climber using ticks, so ... cut the dude some slack. Maybe he went back later and brushed them off anyway.
Who knows? It seems like a minor consideration at best. The point is, the dude fucking soloed Separate Reality. Rad!
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imfromwales
Jun 20, 2005, 9:01 PM
Post #67 of 74
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Registered: Jun 9, 2004
Posts: 6
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That solo is amazing. I dont know how he dares!!
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ikefromla
Jun 20, 2005, 9:51 PM
Post #68 of 74
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Registered: Oct 23, 2002
Posts: 1216
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TROLLED 4 LYFE.. all of you. While my comment about Gullich not needing tick marks was accurate, I did not explicitely say that Heinz Zak is not an incredibly talented climber, photographer, euro, or whatever. Truth be told that they could or couldn't be his ticks and I don't actually care more than perhaps a half grain of sand. As for my real opinion about the send, it's proud as fuck. I have not done the route and I won't pretend to have.
Alpnclmbr1 has me pegged... i'm a total sport wanker. I'm glad I could be of some entertainment here on RC.com, fueling a lot of those last 5 pages of responses.
<3 Ike
PS I sent your mom without tickmarks.
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steezy
Jun 21, 2005, 4:01 AM
Post #70 of 74
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Registered: May 30, 2005
Posts: 92
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How balzie.
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yay_chris
Jun 28, 2005, 4:12 AM
Post #71 of 74
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Registered: Feb 2, 2004
Posts: 141
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Totally amazing.
Where can i buy the movie of the ascent?
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bvb
Jun 28, 2005, 6:05 AM
Post #72 of 74
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Registered: Mar 3, 2003
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i've got a copy i'll barter for. how old is your mom?
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mezzner
Jul 17, 2005, 10:14 PM
Post #73 of 74
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Registered: May 7, 2004
Posts: 22
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Hm, isn't there a tick-mark (almost) hidden in the shadow on the Gullich pix? It was really clever to await the evening light and the shadow to get at picture in which the tick-marks was not that visible. It almost worked.
I must say I agree that it would be a much cooler effort, if they'd brushed off all old tick-marks once out there soloing the crack. Maybe there are some old unnecessary bolts, later behind the lip, that they could have cleaned as well?
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gibsonjs
Jul 27, 2005, 2:53 AM
Post #74 of 74
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Registered: Feb 2, 2005
Posts: 16
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I think that it is funny how someone can do something that sick and not give him the congrats that he rates. I for one take my hat off to him, and I wish that I can make it to the valley one day to try the route on lead. And in no way does the chalk marks detract from this awesome feat.
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