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madrock


Dec 13, 2005, 8:37 PM
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Hey Jim, once again take please take your personal problems to the shrink and stop venting them here. If you are not interested in my posts, or new products just avoid them and leave them to the members who are interested. I am sure your friends in the industry (competing companies) appreciate your efforts to track me down and slander me but its getting silly.


jimdavis


Dec 13, 2005, 9:44 PM
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In reply to:
Hey Jim, once again take please take your personal problems to the shrink and stop venting them here. If you are not interested in my posts, or new products just avoid them and leave them to the members who are interested. I am sure your friends in the industry (competing companies) appreciate your efforts to track me down and slander me but its getting silly.

Slander huh... Like you've done here? http://www.rockclimbing.com/topic/102552


madrock


Dec 13, 2005, 9:52 PM
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Yes, thank you for proving my point that you are obsessive. You have turned another perfectly useful and informative post being contributed to and taken advantage of by many members into your own personal bitch session. You are the winner.


catbird_seat


Dec 14, 2005, 12:00 AM
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Jim, we don't want to hear it anymore. Take it up in private with madrock if you must.


stymingersfink


Dec 14, 2005, 12:27 AM
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In reply to:
Hey Jim, once again take please take your personal problems to the shrink and stop venting them here. If you are not interested in my posts, or new products just avoid them and leave them to the members who are interested. I am sure your friends in the industry (competing companies) appreciate your efforts to track me down and slander me but its getting silly.

In reply to:
Definitions of slander on the Web:

words falsely spoken that damage the reputation of another
aspersion: an abusive attack on a person's character or good name
defame: charge falsely or with malicious intent; attack the good name and reputation of someone; "The journalists have defamed me!" "The article in the paper sullied my reputation"
wordnet.princeton.edu/perl/webwn

In reply to:
1>one must first have a good name and reputation in order it be sullied. I see neither, ergo, no slander.

2>to charge falsely with malicious intent. Jim is merely pointing out instances which can be found by a simple search No false charges there, just several instances of foot-in-mouth by someone representing a climbing company. One that obviously believes that there is no such thing as bad publicity.

and FWIW, the heavier the belay device, the more mass. The more mass, the greater ability to absorb heat. therefore, light doesn't always make right.


stymingersfink


Dec 14, 2005, 12:34 AM
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the true paradox might be, how to avoid a "cease and desist" order from BD?


benj


Dec 14, 2005, 12:39 AM
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After reading this and the linked thread it seems to me that jim is just debunking madrock and not being an obsessive ass as has been suggested. no doubt mad rock has made some great shoes, im on my 5th pair. the first batches wore out real fast but they seem to have fixed that. what has always bugged me about madrock and now even more so because of these posts is the way they talk about their products. obviously you want to hype your sh*t but they come of as smug motherf*ckers claiming revolution when all they've got is evolution.


madrock


Dec 14, 2005, 2:05 AM
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The Design of the Paradox and similar devices: The locking grooves on the Paradox belay device are modeled after a belay device designed by Jim Bridwell. Jim has been climbing with the device for at least 8 years and has offered his design to several major climbing companies. Jim I believe at one time sponsored by Black Diamond. I do not believe Jim has a problems with us or Black Diamond using a variation of his idea. He is still guiding with the original device he made by hand in Joshua Tree if you have any questions about the designs origin.

The belay first Device I ever saw with any type of locking V notch or groove was designed by Tono Cassin and Produced by Cassin company Italy many years ago.

Sorry I stayed on point, was I supposed to rant here.


jimfix


Dec 14, 2005, 3:28 AM
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In reply to:
This is not a flame war...

Really, you could have fooled me.

Madrocks comment may have been inappropriate, but your dribble is worse. He got abused for it in the original thread. You're just stalking now.

BTW, which company do you represent? Or are your just trying to drag madrock through the mud for the good of the RC.com community? Let me guess, trango?

In defecnce of madrocks statment, at least this thread is upfront about being a blatant advertisement


jimdavis


Dec 14, 2005, 3:53 AM
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In reply to:
BTW, which company do you represent? Or are your just trying to drag madrock through the mud for the good of the RC.com community? Let me guess, trango?

None. You think if I worked for a company in the industry I'd be as vocal as I am?

The "mud" you refer to are his own posts, or direct references to his posts. He dug his own grave.

Convenient how MadRock's accusations can't be reasoned with, as posting to clarify my stance and reasons for posting only adds to his perception of being "stalked".

Jim


madrock


Dec 14, 2005, 4:40 AM
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For the record most of us in the industry have good relationships Black Diamond, Trango, Petzl, Metolius and others in the industry. Occasionally a friend of a sales rep or an industry part timer will try to blow something out or proportion thinking they are being usefull.

The most interesting point here is that everyone I know in the climbing industry surfs and posts on this site (hundreds of them). Only a few, Malcom at Trango, Myself and a couple of other do it openly identifying who we are with which company. I am starting to appreciate why they don't.

Joe


pendereki


Dec 14, 2005, 5:26 AM
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Jim, your point has been made. Please, crawl back to your own thread from August and leave this one alone. To paraphrase the Old Man from "Kung Fu", "You should not punish an old man twice for the same offense."

Joe, thanks for being one of those in the climbing industry who is out of the closet. I enjoy hearing from you, Malcom, and others in the industry, it helps to make rc.com well rounded. Stick around.


madrock


Dec 14, 2005, 5:34 AM
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:shock: OLD?? Thanks...................... I think


pendereki


Dec 14, 2005, 5:40 AM
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Just trying to politely tell Jim to shut up with a favorite line from a favorite movie. No offense meant.

Just saw your other thread--that should be fun!


dudemanbu


Dec 14, 2005, 6:26 AM
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Jim, I understand your frustration, but I'm pretty sure what you're doing falls under the category of harassment and is against the terms of use of this site. You can't just go around trolling someone's every post, no matter how much of a dick you think they are.

Please, do yourself and the rest of us a favor and let bye-gones be bye-gones.


jimdavis


Dec 14, 2005, 8:49 PM
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In reply to:
Jim, I understand your frustration, but I'm pretty sure what you're doing falls under the category of harassment and is against the terms of use of this site. You can't just go around trolling someone's every post, no matter how much of a dick you think they are.

Please, do yourself and the rest of us a favor and let bye-gones be bye-gones.

I'll respond to that.

Trolling it posting to just get a rise out of people...I'm posting my personal opinions, and the opinions of a lot of people it seems.
TOS violation? Nope, each one of my posts or references refers to a post made by the author, and typically the interpretation of that post. If I was making stuff up it'd be one thing, but everything I've based my views on, and talk about, is rooted in these boards. Others share my views, though are not nearly as vocal...feel free to look around the other threads and read people's feedback.

If you don't want me to keep posting though, don't post stuff for me to refute.

Comment addressed, post ended. Think what you will.
Jim


ckirkwood9


Dec 14, 2005, 9:26 PM
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I too would be interested in testing your product.

I currently use a Reverso but also have the Black Diamond atc-xp and a Trango B52.

I'd be curious to see how it stacks up against the ATC-XP.

Assuming you're still interested in other opinions, I can tell you that i'd give a fair review - check out my other posts - i reviewed a new Red Rocks Guide Book released this spring, a hotel in Vegas (suncoast) , shoes (mythos) and some other items.

Send me a PM.


madrock


Dec 15, 2005, 10:11 PM
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Final production weight 68 grams.


dutyje


Dec 15, 2005, 11:16 PM
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Black Diamond ATC-XP: 89g
Metolius BRD: 82g
Petzl Reverso: 81g
Omega Pacific SBGII: 77g
Wild Country Variable Controller: 70g
Mad Rock Paradox: 68g
Trango Jaws: 68g
Trango Pyramid: 68g
Trango B-52: 60g
DMM Bug: 58g
Black Diamond ATC: 50g

Low cost. Light weight. Now I'm genuinely interested in knowing how it performs relative to the ATC-XP. Still, as I mentioned before, the weight isn't very important, but it's at least worth mentioning.


davidji


Dec 15, 2005, 11:28 PM
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In reply to:
Black Diamond ATC-XP: 89g
Metolius BRD: 82g
Petzl Reverso: 81g
Omega Pacific SBGII: 77g
Wild Country Variable Controller: 70g
Mad Rock Paradox: 68g
Trango Jaws: 68g
Trango Pyramid: 68g
Trango B-52: 60g
DMM Bug: 58g
Black Diamond ATC: 50g
Here's what I measured on devices with varying amounts of wear:
Petzl Grigri 226g
Salewa Sticht plate (w/ keeper cord) 104g
BD ATC-XP 87g
Trango Jaws 80g
Wild Country Variable Controller 71g
Trango B52 61g
DMM Bugette 24g

Edited to had the heavier stuff. I didn't realize I have 7 belay devices.

I also didn't realize the plates (Salewa & Wild Country) were so heavy. Tube-type devices perform better. The ATC really is better than a plate, and modern variants ATC-XP, Jaws--and hopefully the Paradox too--are better still.


madrock


Dec 19, 2005, 9:34 PM
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Please note, many of the advertized weights listed above are much lighter than the actual weights of those products. Advertized weights and products specifications are often incorrect. Perhaps a thought for new post.


davidji


Dec 19, 2005, 11:16 PM
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In reply to:
Please note, many of the advertized weights listed above are much lighter than the actual weights of those products. Advertized weights and products specifications are often incorrect. Perhaps a thought for new post.
I posted actual measured weights here for several devices (I learned that I own 7 belay devices), then deleted. I found some discrepency. Some were very close. A couple appeared to be spec'd incorrectly by the manufacturer.


dvd


Dec 20, 2005, 3:01 AM
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mass/heat transfer are related but there is also a material property that determines the rate of heat transfer. I believe these are billet not cast, I dont remember which is better for heat transfer...

has anybody been able to test them out yet?


patto


Dec 20, 2005, 12:08 PM
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But how many times have you been up a climb and thought damn I wish my belay device wasn't weighing me down. Weight is one of the last things I would consider in selecting a belay device. Any although I'm a cheap climber, I think cost isn't a big factor as you only need one and use often comes down to personal preference.


(Personally I love the Reverso. If I was going to get another device I would just get a plain old ATC. I don't like this grooved business of the XP)


madrock


Dec 20, 2005, 11:28 PM
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Our new packaging will state that the standard use of the device is with the regular side prefered for breaking. The notches are primarily for catching larger loads, longer falls or using smaller ropes. For normal use belaying we also prefer the more traditional configuration.

Not overly concerned about the weight myself but it was a legitimate question I thought I should address.

Joe

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