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patto
May 16, 2006, 12:11 PM
Post #51 of 54
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Registered: Nov 15, 2005
Posts: 1453
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I can't believe that this guy from Europe was told by the gym that his method was not approved!!! His method is by far the SAFER method for top rope belaying. It is what is taught as the 5-step method here in AUS gyms. It is how I have always learnt to tope rope belay and is far better for beginners as a hand is always GRIPPING the brake side of the rope.
For leading though I slide my hands because that sort of belay method becomes harder when feeding.
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rockguide
May 16, 2006, 12:31 PM
Post #52 of 54
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Registered: Nov 8, 2004
Posts: 1359
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It is a safe technique, yes, but I would not say far safer for top roping. The issue is, as identified before, that it is more difficult to translate to lead belaying.
Climbers have a tendency to label all different things as "unsafe". Sometimes it is, sometimes it is safe only in special circumstances, and sometimes it is safe.
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tisar
May 16, 2006, 12:38 PM
Post #53 of 54
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Registered: Jul 1, 2004
Posts: 2577
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If you look closely at the first post it says:
Posted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 4:16 pm
The last response of the OP (in which he thanked all the contributers) says:
Posted: Wed Mar 08, 2006
This leads to the conclusion that maybe:
:deadhorse:
Just a guess :wink:
- Daniel
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redpoint73
May 16, 2006, 1:18 PM
Post #54 of 54
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Registered: Aug 20, 2002
Posts: 1717
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In reply to: Thanks for all the comments! And yes, regarding the use of a figure-eight for belaying, in this I have definitely adopted the American style and switched to a reverso. I remember though reading somewhere (maybe here) that the advantage of rappelling with a figure eight over an atc or the like is that you can pass the knot when rappelling a double rope-length on ropes tied together. Never had to do something like this myself - any comments? Jakk
How often have you passed a knot outside? I've been climbing for 11 years and I have never had to. Are you seriously going to carry an inferior piece of gear around just because it is slightly easier to use in a situation that you will probably never encounter?
Figure-8's are noisy, clunky, and its arguably unsafe to lead belay with it in any configuration except tube mode through the small hole. Which is also stupid because whenever the rope goes slack, the 8 slides down the rope away from you.
Figure-8 are useless except in very specialist rappel scenarios.
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