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j_ung
Jun 7, 2006, 5:19 PM
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In reply to: You can rock climb with nothing more than a good pair of climbing boots or shoes (i.e. bouldering, scrambling) but if you want to get into technical rock climbing outside, you're going to need at the very least an alpine or sport-climbing harness, some carabiners, a belay device, a helmet, and some runners. Most beginning climbers will not invest in a climbing rope until they've had a few chances to see if they like it. If you climb at a climbing gym, you'll never have to buy your own rope, as the gyms will have set routes and supply the ropes at each climbing station. As for helmets, they're essential if you're climbing outside, but many people will skip using them if they climb at the gym. You can check out other great free rock climbing info at: http://hobbies.expertvillage.com/experts/rock-climbing.htm
Are you Courtenay Schurman?
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kubi
Jun 12, 2006, 1:28 AM
Post #52 of 61
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In reply to: majid_sabet, your post is confused. A factor of saftey of 10! What are we building airplanes? NO! We are climbing, which every peice of climbing gear tells us IS dangerous.
for what it's worth airplanes have a factor of safety of less then 2...close to 1.2 if memory serves. I imagine climbing gear has a much higher FOS.
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billcoe_
Jun 12, 2006, 4:24 AM
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In reply to: This thread would only be half as long if people read what each other wrote.
Nice to find a pearl of wisdom in a pile of........errrr...posts. This thread still going!?
BTW, I should just STFU :lol: anyway. Step back I gona toss some gasoline on the fire.
This is what I bought today.
http://i11.ebayimg.com/03/i/07/4d/e7/28_2.JPG
10mm (3/8" approx) Stainless Screw Links (radipe Mallions). I will be putting them at the ends of chains used as toprope anchors so that when the threading and pulling has worn the chain down, the last link can (hopefully) just be unscrewed and replaced. Cutting those beater worn through last links on chains SUCKS. Hopefully the threads won't be all jacked after a few yers in the rain when they need replacement. Stainless baby!
$3 ea including shipping! Whooo Hoooo (Homer Simpson noise)
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fanfoui
Jun 12, 2006, 5:51 AM
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Yup I've got the same as duncan except 11mm (25 Kn it's written on it) and use them frequently for top-rope or bailing a sports route (less frequent but still it happened). Got them for less than 5$ and I always keep 3-4 on my harness just in case, the rest for the slackline...
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southtxtraveler
Jul 18, 2006, 2:59 AM
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Well after reading these all again, I noticed.
"They look like the one in the picture" or something like that!
The one in the picture is rated and engraved, you could buy some that looked like the one in the picture that would be questionable. Be careful!
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jred
Jul 18, 2006, 3:44 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: This thread would only be half as long if people read what each other wrote. Nice to find a pearl of wisdom in a pile of........errrr...posts. This thread still going!? BTW, I should just STFU :lol: anyway. Step back I gona toss some gasoline on the fire. This is what I bought today. http://i11.ebayimg.com/03/i/07/4d/e7/28_2.JPG 10mm (3/8" approx) Stainless Screw Links (radipe Mallions). I will be putting them at the ends of chains used as toprope anchors so that when the threading and pulling has worn the chain down, the last link can (hopefully) just be unscrewed and replaced. Cutting those beater worn through last links on chains SUCKS. Hopefully the threads won't be all jacked after a few yers in the rain when they need replacement. Stainless baby! $3 ea including shipping! Whooo Hoooo (Homer Simpson noise)
No, I am not affiliated with Fixe.
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capn_morgan
Jul 18, 2006, 6:08 AM
Post #57 of 61
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For those who were curious....I know there are other nerds out there :P .
Tensile yield strength for a 3/8" piece of steel. Lets say that this link is 316 SS..a nice corrosion resistant material..though not nearly as strong as some other steels. The yield strength(when it begins to deform) is 205Mpa and the Ultimate Tensile strength (When it breaks) is 515 Mpa.
http://www.azom.com/...s.asp?ArticleID=1258
now lets just pretend that we forgot to screw that bad boy closed so only one side of the link is supporting our friendly Rhino. This makes things easier as figuring the strength of the screw connnection would be kinda tricky.
So we have a 3/8" piece of steel...radius is about 4.8mm.....area of about 71.2mm squared. Now if we multiply this times our rated strengths (and convert from Newtons to lbf) we will find that the link will begin to yield at about 3200lbf and should break at about 8200lbf......so if our rhino friend takes a whipper on this thing hell probably stretch it out a bit but it shouldnt break.
Now I dont know about all of you....but I weigh a bit less than a Rhino...so I would feel pretty comfortable TRing on these things.
So thats what was going through my head when I read all of this....Of course the above numbers are very theoretical...they will change significantly for different types of steel in different conditions. But 316 is probably one of the weaker steels that would be used for something like this...as far as yield strength goes and its yield strength (3200lbf) is about 14KN. Now unless your climbing on a static line a take a really bad fall...your not going to do much to that link (if you manage to generate 14kn in a fall youll probably be worried about things other than that link....like your scrambled innards) :lol:
Peace out... enough nerd speak for tonight.
Capn' Morgan
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fmd
Jul 18, 2006, 6:52 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: The ratings on industrial gear is different than climbing gear: industrial gear is rated to "safe working load", climbing gear to breaking strength. Working load is usually around 1/10 of break strength, so do your calculations accordingly. In reply to: I know these things are plenty strong, and I have taken plenty of whippers on them also via the bolt end of fixed draws. But where did you get that number from? I was curious about this, and looked around the net. Everything I have read says working load is 1/5 to 1/3 of ultimate of breaking load. Thats much different from 1/10. In reply to: Anybody know what the factor of saftey on 'climbing' gear is? Yes, the factor of safety is one. The rating strength is the actual ultimate of breaking strength. Plus/minus for statistical variation, depending on the statistical methods used. They will usually break a bit higher, but I wouldn't count on any factor of safety.
After reading through this thread I had thought I had seen the 1/10th for climbing and 1/15th for the NFPA somewhere. I went through a couple of books and found it in On Rope (written by Bruce Smith and Alan Padgett, second edition). It states " a safe working load is commonly defined as 1/10th of the current breaking strenght of the rope. For Rescue applications per NFPA, it 1/15th of the breaking strength.".......
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desert_bat
Jul 18, 2006, 7:42 PM
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OK, so this thread is only 3 mo. old...
I see these things pretty often when I'm climbing. There are pretty cheap to get from the hardware store and are solid. I.e. I will trust two 3/8in stainless steel (I also weigh less than a rhino)
That said, they really kind of suck cause the small opening really tends to get the rope all kinked. If its for your own TR anchors, definently go buy some "real" karabiners.
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el_layclimber
Jul 18, 2006, 9:27 PM
Post #60 of 61
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I bet this thread is at least twice as long as it would be if people just read each other's posts.
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brutusofwyde
Jul 19, 2006, 1:33 AM
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In reply to: I bet this thread is at least twice as long as it would be if people just read each other's posts.
I bet this post is at least four times as long as it would be if I didn't quote other posts.
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