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Partner cracklover


Sep 15, 2006, 4:39 PM
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Excellent post, Walress.

In reply to:
Since we pay for everything one way or the other, people want to "mentor" for three reasons typically:

1. Sexual ones.
2. No one else will climb with them.
3. You have such great potential that you hardly need mentoring to be their equal partner.

True, up to a point. But there is something that is not quite 3 - I think it's really worth separating out and adding as point 4 to your list:

4. You have such great potential that you are a thrill and a challenge to climb with, even if you're far below the equal of the "mentor" (I hate that term).

And okay, here's 5 (which is a variaton on 2):

5. The "mentor" is new to the area.

In reply to:
Of course experienced people will go climb w/ their less experienced friends from time to time, but for the most part more experienced climbers want to go do their more experienced kind of climbing unless one of the above situations applies.

Very true. I think this is so true that adherents of the OP can get plenty of mentor time because of the above, if they cast their nets wide enough, and live in the right part of the country.

In short, I think there really are a number of ways to get "mentor time". And for many of us, having tits just wasn't a realistic option!

GO


iamthewallress


Sep 15, 2006, 4:51 PM
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And for many of us, having tits just wasn't a realistic option!

Sigh...sad but true for me too. :cry:


shakylegs


Sep 15, 2006, 5:15 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
And for many of us, having tits just wasn't a realistic option!

Sigh...sad but true for me too. :cry:

Hey, if it's any consolation, I've had similar comments made about my penis. I've come to accept that.


jcrew


Sep 15, 2006, 5:24 PM
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In reply to:
people want to "mentor" for three reasons typically:

1. Sexual ones.

not exactly.

it's like this, i have half a dozen hard bros with whom i climb who can fiddle in tiny nuts on run-out 5.11. but at the end of the day, around the campfire, or at the hot springs, these guys can be a bit............well, you know, crusty. and the forced bivy is a whole other story.


jcrew


Sep 15, 2006, 5:25 PM
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In reply to:
people want to "mentor" for three reasons typically:

1. Sexual ones.

not exactly.

it's like this, i have half a dozen hard bros with whom i climb who can fiddle in tiny nuts on run-out 5.11. but at the end of the day, around the campfire, or at the hot springs, these guys can be a bit............well, you know, crusty. and the forced bivy is a whole other story.


iamthewallress


Sep 15, 2006, 6:40 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
people want to "mentor" for three reasons typically:

1. Sexual ones.

not exactly.

it's like this, i have half a dozen hard bros with whom i climb who can fiddle in tiny nuts on run-out 5.11. but at the end of the day, around the campfire, or at the hot springs, these guys can be a bit............well, you know, crusty. and the forced bivy is a whole other story.

Since your profile says that you're a guide, I'll bet that you dont' need to demonstrate your eagerness to flake ropes and buy beer to find boys that will lead the scarey 5.11 pitch no matter what your tits look like. You're probably usually a #3...or not getting mentored at all, just not able/willing to lead those pitches.

But for the record, I think you really get the best deal when your 5.11 leading bro (or sista as your nature dictates) is bootilicious and snuggley whether your bivies are forced or not.


boo


Sep 15, 2006, 7:27 PM
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i looked through this whole thread and don't think i saw this one.

carry a belay device that works as a rappel device (ie, please don't lug a grigri and then ask how you are going to get down)

carry your own nut tool. always.

then....get your mentor to teach you how to use a soloist. b/c you'll be like the rest of us scrambling for partners soon enough.

the next thread should be a list of partner want-ads!


leezerdgirl


Sep 15, 2006, 7:32 PM
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I think a lot of it boils down to being good company. Taking initiative, pulling your weight, and having fun are part of being good company. Anybody who is so hard up for sex (or eye candy) that they would put up with a helpless, whiny, selfish, and / or thoughtless but hot partner is not a mentor. They're a desperate opportunist. And that's not a sustainable situation.

It has definitely been true for me that "mentoring" relationships that last are based on friendship and enjoying each other's company on trips. I also think it helps if you can follow at the grade that your "mentor" likes to lead. A 5.12 stud isn't going to want to spend much precious climbing time working 5.4s with a noob. Both of my "mentors" are highly skilled (one is certified as a guide and one works SAR) and they both like to lead 5.9 and under, which is just perfect for me to follow them and learn.


jt512


Sep 15, 2006, 7:37 PM
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Re: How to attract a trad mentor--be a great follower [In reply to]
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Both of my "mentors" are highly skilled (one is certified as a guide and one works SAR) and they both like to lead 5.9 and under, which is just perfect for me to follow them and learn.

Anybody else remember when "guide" meant you could free solo 5.9 in your tennies in the rain?

Jay


redlegrangerone


Sep 15, 2006, 7:49 PM
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I am sure most guides climb much harder than 5.9. However, they do tend to spend a lot of time getting new climbers or even non climbers up routes. They spend the majority of their time on the soft routes.


healyje


Sep 15, 2006, 8:36 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
To those who said you can attract a mentor by being a girl and / or hot, that's so wrong. Sure, you're kidding, okay, but I wouldn't want any of the guys out there to think it's true.

The things is...whether you agree that it's the way it should be or not...it's the truest rule on the list.

Since we pay for everything one way or the other, people want to "mentor" for three reasons typically:

1. Sexual ones.
2. No one else will climb with them.
3. You have such great potential that you hardly need mentoring to be their equal partner.

Most folks who are in the "I want to be the best follower that I can be so someone will take me climbing and show me stuff camp" are going to be attracting ongoing regular partners for reasons 1. or 2. If you're in camp 3, then how good of a follower you are is going to be a small part of the big picture pretty quickly.

Of course experienced people will go climb w/ their less experienced friends from time to time, but for the most part more experienced climbers want to go do their more experienced kind of climbing unless one of the above situations applies.

Hmmmm, I think "wow" is my first response to all that. Now, I've clearly been guilty of #3 over the years. But the others and the whole tone of this is way, way off base from anything in my experience or that of my fellow old school partners. Maybe its a Cali-culture deal as well or maybe times have changed and spawning predators is just another spinoff of the commercialization of climbing with gyms making fertile ground for them.

I've never once thought twice about a partner's sex as either peers or someone I'm helping out to learn trad. And I've been roped soloing extensively for thirty years and like climbing alone half the time. Getting up a route that's a challenge for you, getting hurt badly, or dying on a rock are all pretty sexless affairs from my experience. And while I was as likely as the next person to get after a woman I thought was hot (been married to the last one for twelve years) - that has nothing whatsoever to do with climbing - at least in my book.

Sorry you and others have had such unfortunate experiences and even sadder if times have changed and this is actually as rampant as some of you portray...

P.S. And I have to second Larry's comment on the giving learners sh#t - it's not my style - I try to be as supportive as humanly possible while still being clear as a razor about what I believe is required and appropriate at any given moment.


leezerdgirl


Sep 15, 2006, 8:45 PM
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Hmmmm, I think "wow" is my first response to all that. Now, I've clearly been guilty of #3 over the years. But the others and the whole tone of this is way, way off base from anything in my experience or that of my fellow old school partners. Maybe its a Cali-culture deal as well or maybe times have changed and spawning predators is just another spinoff of the commercialization of climbing with gyms making fertile ground for them.

I've never once thought twice about a partner's sex as either peers or someone I'm helping out to learn trad. And I've been roped soloing extensively for thirty years and like climbing alone half the time. Getting up a route that's a challenge for you, getting hurt badly, or dying on a rock are all pretty sexless affairs from my experience. And while I was as likely as the next person to get after a woman I thought was hot (been married to the last one for twelve years) - that has nothing whatsoever to do with climbing - at least in my book.

Sorry you and others have had such unfortunate experiences and even sadder if times have changed and this is actually as rampant as some of you portray...

P.S. And I have to second Larry's comment on the giving learners sh#t - it's not my style - I try to be as supportive as humanly possible while still being clear as a razor about what I believe is required and appropriate at any given moment.

I'd give you a trophy if I had a rate button today.


caughtinside


Sep 15, 2006, 8:52 PM
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I've never once thought twice about a partner's sex as either peers or someone I'm helping out to learn trad. And I've been roped soloing extensively for thirty years and like climbing alone half the time. Getting up a route that's a challenge for you, getting hurt badly, or dying on a rock are all pretty sexless affairs from my experience.

Well, I'm suprised so many people are suprised by all of this.

Do you really take a beginner up a route that's challenging for you? Of course not. If you do, you're asking for trouble.

And I am sure a number of you will take issue with this, but you have to ask yourself WHAT IS IN IT FOR THE MORE EXPERIENCED CLIMBER. Because don't kid yourself, you are getting something out of it.

Is it a dating interest? Are you friends? Are you fun to hang out with? Are you paying them?

Why would I spend my limited free time teaching someone to climb? Because they are my friend, or I would like to be friends with them. I'm not really into unpaid guiding.

And I also think it's a little silly to call someone interested in dating another climber a predator. Oh come on. If you're actually serious about climbing a lot, you might just find that it is difficult to maintain a relationship with a non-climber. It is perfectly natural to want to have BOTH. which is best served by dating a climber.

Leezerdgirl, I seem to recall that your profile said for a while that you were interested in dating a climber. so why all the suprise?

This thread seems to have gotten off track by all the pretend suprise that an experienced male climber might be interested in dating a beginner female climber. I think the root issue of what it gets down to, is this:

What do you bring to the partnership? Because you are getting something in return, and most people aren't interested in unpaid guiding.

And there are plenty nonsexual answers to that question.

Finally, in anticipation of the flaming I will surely recieve, a number of my favorite partners are attractive females of varying skill levels, and I love climbing with all of them.


Partner cracklover


Sep 15, 2006, 9:00 PM
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Good ones, boo!

You know what, I'm going to come right out here and say it. I think this whole issue of Mentors with a capital "M" is a sham.

I mean no disrespect to those people who mentored me: Eddie, Dizzy, Wright, Larry, you were all a huge infuence and I cannot thank you enough. But these people were not shephards, and that's what a lot of you seem to be looking for in mentors. A lot of folks seem to think that if you find the right mentor, it's like hitting the jackpot - bingo, that'll make you a real leader.

Bullshit!

Becoming a leader is a state of mind! Most of the hard work that makes you a true leader happens on your own. It happens on the sharp end when no-one's there to spoon feed you advice!

Becoming a true lead climber only has a bit to do with knowing how to place good gear and keep the fear in check. It has everything to do with taking control of your destiny. You want to start down the road to being a true trad leader? Don't look for a guide to show you the way, show some initiative, do your homework!

Buy, borrow, or steal all the books and read them ravenously (climbing how-to, history, ANAM, biography, etc). Searching the guidebooks and the online forums and databases for the routes that will further your progression. Buy or borrow a rack and go on your lunch break to place gear and bounce test it, even if the denizens of your local park think you're bonkers.

Blithely following your Mentor around saying "please sir, may I have s'more?" will never make you a leader.

Of course, nobody likes a know-it-all with more booksmarts than real exeriental knowledge, so keep it real, and keep your ego in check, but having the attitude that drives you to do all of the above will make you a true leader far more than the other guy who's led five times as many pitches, but they were all spoon-fed him, and most of them were either practiced on toprope first or just mock-led.

Then, once you have the right attitude of desire for true learning, seek out mentors, guides, what have you. Who knows, you may get all the "mentoring" you need around the campfire at night in sage advice, or in the stories traded on the drive to the crag, or by belaying that thirty-year veteran gritstone climber as you trade pitches with him - he on a tour of the US - keeping his wits together, as he balances gracefully and finds the right path. I believe that true mentors do not teach - if you're really a leader, you teach yourself with their help. True mentors provide inspiration, culture, ethical guidance, and a historical perspective.

Just my $0.02

GO


larryd


Sep 15, 2006, 9:03 PM
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...
And I am sure a number of you will take issue with this, but you have to ask yourself WHAT IS IN IT FOR THE MORE EXPERIENCED CLIMBER. Because don't kid yourself, you are getting something out of it. ...

How about: You love climbing and enjoy sharing it with an enthusiastic newcomer.


caughtinside


Sep 15, 2006, 9:05 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
...
And I am sure a number of you will take issue with this, but you have to ask yourself WHAT IS IN IT FOR THE MORE EXPERIENCED CLIMBER. Because don't kid yourself, you are getting something out of it. ...

How about: You love climbing and enjoy sharing it with an enthusiastic newcomer.

That's perfectly legit. I'm getting to feed off their enthusiasm! Feels good!

But it isn't enough to keep me repeating 5.7s week after week, you know?


puerto


Sep 15, 2006, 9:37 PM
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Right on cracklover..Good post.


leezerdgirl


Sep 15, 2006, 9:49 PM
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Yep, lots of drift here but it's still an interesting discussion.

Caughtinside, yes, of course true that lots of climbers want to date climbers. I dated one of my favorite climbing partners for a year and it was lovely. Sure you might initially climb with someone because there's a dating / sexual interest, no shocker there. My point was that a climbing partnership / mentor relationship won't last if the leader's desire to do The Deed, as you call it, is the only glue and the follower only has hotness to offer. Being a hot female is neither a necessary nor sufficient condition for cultivating a partnership with someone you can learn from.

Cracklover, great points about DIY learning, but does it have to be one or the other? Campfire stories and inspiration are wonderful, but I also have appreciated my partners who would take the time to teach me, e.g. how to escape a belay.

One last thought--why does anyone teach? They do it for their own reasons, but obviously lots of people like to share what they've learned or we'd all be climbing 5.9 and under, wearing boots and swami belts. Likewise, people pick out those they are willing to teach for any number of reasons. This thread started off as ways for a new learner to increase his or her chances of being an attractive partner to someone who is willing to teach. We can add sex change operation to the list if that would be helpful.


healyje


Sep 15, 2006, 10:13 PM
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Again, almost not quite sure where to begin...

In reply to:
In reply to:
I've never once thought twice about a partner's sex as either peers or someone I'm helping out to learn trad. And I've been roped soloing extensively for thirty years and like climbing alone half the time. Getting up a route that's a challenge for you, getting hurt badly, or dying on a rock are all pretty sexless affairs from my experience.

...

Do you really take a beginner up a route that's challenging for you? Of course not. If you do, you're asking for trouble.

Re-read the above - there is nothing in that quote about taking beginners up climbs that are challenging to the mentor...

In reply to:
And I am sure a number of you will take issue with this, but you have to ask yourself WHAT IS IN IT FOR THE MORE EXPERIENCED CLIMBER. Because don't kid yourself, you are getting something out of it.

Is it a dating interest? Are you friends? Are you fun to hang out with? Are you paying them?

Why would I spend my limited free time teaching someone to climb? Because they are my friend, or I would like to be friends with them. I'm not really into unpaid guiding.

As Larry tried to tell you, to bring someone interested in trad along. And insinuating that LarryD needs to feed on anyone's enthusiasm but his own? Wow, now that my friend, that is some damn bold sh#talking. And "unpaid guiding"? Well, now that rock guiding exists as a big commercial deal I suppose that shouldn't be quite so strange to me, but it wasn't always so and outside of a few select places there were never guides and you learned on your own or with a "mentor". I got a couple of goes by a fellow I still consider one of the best climbers I ever met and he never climbed harder than 5.8; after that we were on our own and everything we touched was an FA. It was sink or swim and most of the time we did.

In reply to:
And I also think it's a little silly to call someone interested in dating another climber a predator. Oh come on. If you're actually serious about climbing a lot, you might just find that it is difficult to maintain a relationship with a non-climber. It is perfectly natural to want to have BOTH. which is best served by dating a climber.

Leezerdgirl, I seem to recall that your profile said for a while that you were interested in dating a climber. so why all the suprise?

Wanting to date a climber is one thing, not having the balls to ask them and instead saying you'd "mentor" them to try and make it happen is predation and I wouldn't tie in with anyone that dickless...

In reply to:
...

What do you bring to the partnership? Because you are getting something in return, and most people aren't interested in unpaid guiding.

Again, probably a generational deal and sad sign of the times - most old schoolers likely have a much different, less cynical and mercenary worldview then this I suspect.

=====================

In reply to:
Becoming a leader is a state of mind! Most of the hard work that makes you a true leader happens on your own. It happens on the sharp end when no-one's there to spoon feed you advice!

That's half true - following good leaders, understanding all aspects of what is that is happening while doing so and appreciating the implications of it all for yourself is also half the deal in the beginning. And really, following better leaders than yourself occasionally isn't a bad habit to maintain for a lifetime.

In reply to:
Becoming a true lead climber only has a bit to do with knowing how to place good gear and keep the fear in check. It has everything to do with taking control of your destiny. You want to start down the road to being a true trad leader? Don't look for a guide to show you the way, show some initiative, do your homework!

Here I'd agree, skip the guides and harass some old trad guy or gal into taking you out. So much the better if they claim they've quit climbing or are winding down - harass them all the harder as they are clearly in need of it.

In reply to:
Blithely following your Mentor around saying "please sir, may I have s'more?" will never make you a leader.

Pretty twisted view of what it's all about and if that were the view of someone I was teaching it would be over before it started.

In reply to:
Of course, nobody likes a know-it-all with more booksmarts than real exeriental knowledge, so keep it real, and keep your ego in check, but having the attitude that drives you to do all of the above will make you a true leader far more than the other guy who's led five times as many pitches, but they were all spoon-fed him, and most of them were either practiced on toprope first or just mock-led.

No spoons around here, no TRing, and most of all - never, and I mean never ever - mock lead. You get out and second and you get out and lead - a good mentor will be pushing you constantly just at the edge and often beyond your comfort zone at all times.

In reply to:
I believe that true mentors do not teach - if you're really a leader, you teach yourself with their help. True mentors provide inspiration, culture, ethical guidance, and a historical perspective.


You could largely have started and ended your post with this paragraph as it is the very best of what you had to say as far as I'm concerned...


caughtinside


Sep 15, 2006, 10:13 PM
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My point was that a climbing partnership / mentor relationship won't last if the leader's desire to do The Deed, as you call it, is the only glue and the follower only has hotness to offer.

Couple things.

I can't take credit for the term, 'The Deed.' I ripped it off from Largo because I am immature and it made me snicker.

2nd, who says the relationship has to last? Not my style, but I see it happen all the time... consensually by both.


caughtinside


Sep 15, 2006, 10:26 PM
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All right Joe.

Since obviously you've gone and picked apart every sentence in my post, I guess everything has to be explained, qualified, whatever, to the nth degree around here.

First, I never meant to imply that the great and wonderful scary larry deanglo wasn't psyched. I know you like to hold his balls for him and tell the rest of us how great he is. My post referred to the different enthusiasm of the beginner.

Second, maybe you do all this 'unpaid guiding' all the time out of the goodness of your heart. Me? I'm happy to take a friend here and there. ANd maybe your situation was different. maybe you were a dirtbag with no job. Maybe you lived right next to your local crag. I'm guessing there were fewer climbers, and those who were interested in learning were serious about learning when you started, so to cultivate partners you helped each other out.

Now, there are plenty of climbers. And I have a regular job. So, in my two days off a week, I have a few choices. I can spend my limited free time with the people I want to, my friends and family. Or, I can take a beginner climber 90 miles to some granite, and spend all day teaching them a thing or two about climbing on routes that are generally too easy to be very interesting for me. Now, if that beginner is a friend of mine, sure! But spend that time with a stranger? No thanks.

Maybe they can find a real charitable soul to teach them. Someone who doesn't like to talk while they climb, and rope solos a lot. sounds like a real fun guy.

I'll stick to climbing with my friends, thanks.


leezerdgirl


Sep 15, 2006, 10:46 PM
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My point was that a climbing partnership / mentor relationship won't last if the leader's desire to do The Deed, as you call it, is the only glue and the follower only has hotness to offer.

Couple things.

I can't take credit for the term, 'The Deed.' I ripped it off from Largo because I am immature and it made me snicker.

2nd, who says the relationship has to last? Not my style, but I see it happen all the time... consensually by both.

*shrug* If someone wants to spend their limited free time climbing with people they want to bag but otherwise don't care for (or, conversely, if someone is willing to do a "forced bivy" with someone they can't stand but who knows a lot about climbing) that's their prerogative. Hopefully both partners are happy with the deal they've struck.

Thankfully it doesn't always work that way. I haven't ever seen it actually, but then I don't climb with the same crowd as you, caughtinside. ;)


healyje


Sep 15, 2006, 11:11 PM
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Re: How to attract a trad mentor--be a great follower [In reply to]
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First, I never meant to imply that the great and wonderful scary larry deanglo wasn't psyched. I know you like to hold his balls for him and tell the rest of us how great he is. My post referred to the different enthusiasm of the beginner.

Fortunately Larry isn't one of your Cali glam types that have an entourage to carry their balls and rep around. I hear from a well-placed PDX-transplant that people who climb with Larry are typically too busy trying to making sure their own are still intact to be bothered with such duties.

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Maybe they can find a real charitable soul to teach them. Someone who doesn't like to talk while they climb, and rope solos a lot. sounds like a real fun guy.

I'll stick to climbing with my friends, thanks.

You'll never know, but I think we've established over the years that we aren't going to be each other's first choice of partners...


jt512


Sep 16, 2006, 12:30 AM
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Re: How to attract a trad mentor--be a great follower [In reply to]
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Being a hot female is neither a necessary nor sufficient condition for cultivating a partnership with someone you can learn from.

I think it's hot when girls use a phrase like "necessary and sufficient condition."

Jay


stymingersfink


Sep 16, 2006, 12:47 AM
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Re: How to attract a trad mentor--be a great follower [In reply to]
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I wanted to say something about the really good point on being clear / honest about your abilities and speed. I've definitely had experiences where I didn't talk with my new partner in advance about speed in particular and ended up feeling bad for holding them back.

I also think it's really easy to have misunderstandings about this stuff even when you're trying to be honest, so it's important to talk about it in enough detail that you know you're on the same page. For example, I told one new partner I was comfortable following up to 5.9. To me, that meant I could promise I'd be able to get up anything 5.9 or under, but that was my limit and I might not be able to get up anything harder. To her, "comfortable up to 5.9" meant that 5.9 was not terribly challenging for me, and that I could do things in the 5.10 or maybe 5.11 range with a little more effort.
that's where the questions asked by the mentor become important. If I were to take someone climbing who's "comfortable" climbing 5.9 (gym or otherwise), the first thing they're going to do is clean on a multi-pitch 5.7 just to see if they're basically all there with their skill set. Dragging them up territory outside of their comfort range on the first climb shows a distinct lack of regard for the opportunity to assess anothers abilities (in which case it's probably #1). Why would you want to mentor under someone like that?

True, their job at some point is to push you beyond where you were previously comfortable, but that is something that comes with time. They need to know you well enough to know where that boundary is now, and where it will be next time. It is a give and take relationship, we'll push each other, just at different times.

The list a few pages back gave three reasons why people mentor. Of course, people begin adding to it, but the reason I find important is

1: I enjoy sharing with others the knowledge of a skill-set which brings me much satisfaction in life, especially if the other has a genuine desire to learn.

Doesn't really matter what that skill set is. If I were a fisherman, I'd probably be a fly-fisherman. If I were a fly-fisherman I'd probably tie my own flies, and if someone showed a genuine interest in learning how, I'd probably be more than happy to share techniques with them (if their personality didn't clash too hard with mine). I would hope at some point that they would be able to tie a better fly than i could.... (Maybe they'd let me try it on the river-trip of my dreams!)

Or maybe at some point they decide that fly fishing sucks and they'd rather be a bait fisherman. Baiting hooks is an easier skill to master... :wink:

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Also, it's worth noting for the umpteenth time that gym climbing and outdoor climbing scales do not equate, so someone new to outdoor climbing should be very explicit if they're talking about grades they've done in the gym. It reminds me of a scene in a movie where the guy says "I've logged 2000 hours of flight time" and takes over flying a plane without ever mentioning that's flight time on a Playstation simulator. And then he doesn't know how to work the brakes because he never had to do that on the Playstation. Yeah. Gym climbing is like that.

ROTFLMAO!

2000 hrs of flight time? just think: if that were during climbing, that's a lot of falling! :lol:

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