Feb 15, 2008, 8:06 AM
Post #52 of 60
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Re: [yokese] Poll: How much "harder" do you climb, sport vs trad.
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Are you talking redpoints, or onsight trad vs. redpoint sport. My ultimate redpoints in trad and sport are really close (mostly because I don't work on hard redpoints). I, on the other hand consider myself a 5.9 trad leader (consistent onsight), and a 5.12a sport leader (redpoint on a route that's perfect for me).
I am much more proud of the 5.9 figure. It means, (with the exception of certain alpine climbs), that I can walk up to a 5.9 and lead it without falling. Working a 5.12 for days is fun, but it doesn't really reflect my ability to climb at that level consistantly.
It all depends on the defintion. When I say trad, I could mean anything, even an "x" rated climb (regardless of whether it's bolted). When I say sport, I assume it's well protected. It's this difference that causes a gap between grades.
Feb 15, 2008, 2:28 PM
Post #53 of 60
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Re: [curt] Poll: How much "harder" do you climb, sport vs trad.
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curt wrote:
cchas wrote:
...I've also heard the argument that the Gunks is sports climbing (in terms of movement skills) with gear...
If that's what you really think about the Gunks, I've got some great route recommendations for you--if you ever head back that way.
Curt
I head back that way evey so often, and I must say that my favorite routes there are sport routes without any gear (since IMHO some of the best routes there involve R/X climbing)
Feb 15, 2008, 5:38 PM
Post #56 of 60
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Re: [dobson] Poll: How much "harder" do you climb, sport vs trad.
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In a converging of three threads in one (on another thread), this disagreement came up:
jt512 wrote:
petsfed wrote:
Second, in the first post the comparison between 5.12 sport and 5.9 trad was made. Which is funny because if you consider the median of climber's abilities (vis a vis angry's "moderate" thread), you'll find that 5.9 trad leaders and 5.12 sport leaders are more or less equivalent. Wierd, huh?
It's not weird. It's wrong. Most people who do both, can lead trad about a number grade below what they lead sport. So if you're going to form an equivalence between 5.12 sport and some number grade at trad, it should be 5.11, not 5.9.
Jay
I think Jay is missing this point:
dobson wrote:
Are you talking redpoints, or onsight trad vs. redpoint sport. My ultimate redpoints in trad and sport are really close (mostly because I don't work on hard redpoints). I, on the other hand consider myself a 5.9 trad leader (consistent onsight), and a 5.12a sport leader (redpoint on a route that's perfect for me).
I am much more proud of the 5.9 figure. It means, (with the exception of certain alpine climbs), that I can walk up to a 5.9 and lead it without falling. Working a 5.12 for days is fun, but it doesn't really reflect my ability to climb at that level consistantly.
It all depends on the defintion. When I say trad, I could mean anything, even an "x" rated climb (regardless of whether it's bolted). When I say sport, I assume it's well protected. It's this difference that causes a gap between grades.
For example - I consider myself a 5.12 a/b sport climber. That's the level where I'm projecting (and redpointing) now. Whereas I also consider myself a 5.9+ 5.10- trad climber. Because that's the level where I usually onsight consistently across all types of trad climbs, and would feel confident doing a long climb at that difficulty, trading pitches with another competent leader.
So that's over two full grades difference, and folks like dobson, with nearly three full grades, definitely don't surprise me.
Feb 15, 2008, 6:20 PM
Post #57 of 60
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Re: [cracklover] Poll: How much "harder" do you climb, sport vs trad.
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cracklover wrote:
For example - I consider myself a 5.12 a/b sport climber. That's the level where I'm projecting (and redpointing) now. Whereas I also consider myself a 5.9+ 5.10- trad climber. Because that's the level where I usually onsight consistently across all types of trad climbs...
So I should consider myself a 5.11 sport climber and a 5.12(+) trad climber since I try to onsight sport climbs but only have 5.12 or harder trad projects?
anry wrote:
I think you should go over there and ask her for a pound of her s$%t
Feb 15, 2008, 8:48 PM
Post #58 of 60
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Re: [wmfork] Poll: How much "harder" do you climb, sport vs trad.
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wmfork wrote:
So I should consider myself a 5.11 sport climber and a 5.12(+) trad climber since I try to onsight sport climbs but only have 5.12 or harder trad projects?
Certainly not according to me and how I just explained things, no. But you can call yourself whatever you like.
The point is to describe things in terms that will be transparent to the person you're talking to.
Among the people I know, if I'm looking for a trad partner, and a potential partner asks me how hard I climb, if I call myself a 5.X trad climber, that means they should feel confident that we could trade pitches on a fairly committing multi-pitch climb, and if the hardest pitch on that climb was 5.X or easier, and I happened to get that pitch, there would be no problems. Simple as that.
Where if I'm looking for a sport partner, and I say I climb 5.X - they should take that to mean that I can clean their leads up to 5.X. And that I'm interested in leading at up to that grade also, though I may flail a lot, since it's around my redpoint limit.
Feb 15, 2008, 9:29 PM
Post #60 of 60
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Re: [angry] Poll: How much "harder" do you climb, sport vs trad.
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Yeah, I got what he was saying the first time. I was simply trying to make the point that if that's what all his friends are doing, then fine, but for a lot of folks, by using the numbers he does, he risks badly mis-communicating with potential partners.
I know only one person who projects trad climbs regularly.
3 /
3%
!!!11 
