|
rhythm164
Mar 31, 2008, 12:21 PM
Post #51 of 124
(2199 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 28, 2005
Posts: 964
|
trad, sport, whatever, it still makes me nuts
onceahardman wrote: In reply to: clipping your chalkbag to your haul loop with a carabiner I always do that. Often I climb things that are not in the guidebook, and run pitches together. Several times, I have been glad to have that biner, so I could finish building a solid anchor. On long routes, it makes sense. maybe on short sporties, it doesn't. |
|
|
|
|
henrikh
Mar 31, 2008, 12:33 PM
Post #52 of 124
(2193 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 15, 2008
Posts: 27
|
But is there a simpler or more effective way to keep it there? I dont want the shoelace-boulder-belt, see..
rhythm164 wrote: trad, sport, whatever, it still makes me nuts onceahardman wrote: In reply to: clipping your chalkbag to your haul loop with a carabiner I always do that. Often I climb things that are not in the guidebook, and run pitches together. Several times, I have been glad to have that biner, so I could finish building a solid anchor. On long routes, it makes sense. maybe on short sporties, it doesn't. |
|
|
|
|
onceahardman
Mar 31, 2008, 12:43 PM
Post #53 of 124
(2189 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 3, 2007
Posts: 2493
|
rhythm164 wrote: trad, sport, whatever, it still makes me nuts onceahardman wrote: In reply to: clipping your chalkbag to your haul loop with a carabiner In reply to: I always do that. Often I climb things that are not in the guidebook, and run pitches together. Several times, I have been glad to have that biner, so I could finish building a solid anchor. You should just get over it. I've been doing that over 30 years. I'd bet you don't do many long remote climbs. I bet you boulder and sport. Otherwise, it sucks to be you, if you're climbing where I am.
(This post was edited by onceahardman on Mar 31, 2008, 12:46 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
macherry
Mar 31, 2008, 1:42 PM
Post #54 of 124
(2156 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2003
Posts: 15848
|
chossmonkey wrote: dingus wrote: taydude wrote: dingus wrote: taydude wrote: -Idiots/ pedestrians at climbing areas: I can't stand having to deal with people when I'm out bouldering -Elitists: Climbing is climbing. There is no superior form. That's some funny shit right there. DMT What's so funny the fact the I boulder or that I was nearly killed by some fools that should have taken their drinking to some frickin bar? I've already said that I don't JUST boulder. Even funnier you don't get it. DMT Hehehehe! That is comedy.
that's gold jerry, pure gold
|
|
|
|
|
dingus
Mar 31, 2008, 2:10 PM
Post #55 of 124
(2136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
granite_grrl wrote: Dealing with aging hardware that most people around here are too ignorant to see the problem with. Very frustrating.
Like what?
DMT
|
|
|
|
|
dingus
Mar 31, 2008, 2:14 PM
Post #56 of 124
(2128 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
Both my daughters agree with their top 2 climbing peeves:
1. Having their Papa say, 'put your foot right there. No! THERE!'
and
2. "Come on, try it AGAIN!'
Really, the exclamation point just pisses them off to no end. I try to splain, us guys? We PUSh each other and often we use exclamation points to get the job done. They nod their heads and grind their teeth.
And they hates me for it, yessssss, they hates me for the exclamation points!
DMT
(This post was edited by dingus on Mar 31, 2008, 2:14 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
bizarrodrinker
Mar 31, 2008, 3:07 PM
Post #57 of 124
(2079 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 20, 2005
Posts: 2316
|
dingus wrote: Both my daughters agree with their top 2 climbing peeves: 1. Having their Papa say, 'put your foot right there. No! THERE!' and 2. "Come on, try it AGAIN!' Really, the exclamation point just pisses them off to no end. I try to splain, us guys? We PUSh each other and often we use exclamation points to get the job done. They nod their heads and grind their teeth. And they hates me for it, yessssss, they hates me for the exclamation points! DMT
it's never a good idea to band exclamation points around willy nilly!!!!!
|
|
|
|
|
shockabuku
Mar 31, 2008, 3:43 PM
Post #58 of 124
(2046 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868
|
dingus wrote: Both my daughters agree with their top 2 climbing peeves: 1. Having their Papa say, 'put your foot right there. No! THERE!' and 2. "Come on, try it AGAIN!' Really, the exclamation point just pisses them off to no end. I try to splain, us guys? We PUSh each other and often we use exclamation points to get the job done. They nod their heads and grind their teeth. And they hates me for it, yessssss, they hates me for the exclamation points! DMT
Aren't parent/child relationships so rewarding/frustrating?!?! I've never seen kids and adults fight so bad as a parent trying to get their kid to do something. Not that I'm accusing you of doing that - but I've seen some bad ones, probably been in a couple myself (on both ends).
|
|
|
|
|
dingus
Mar 31, 2008, 4:18 PM
Post #59 of 124
(2017 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
shockabuku wrote: dingus wrote: Both my daughters agree with their top 2 climbing peeves: 1. Having their Papa say, 'put your foot right there. No! THERE!' and 2. "Come on, try it AGAIN!' Really, the exclamation point just pisses them off to no end. I try to splain, us guys? We PUSh each other and often we use exclamation points to get the job done. They nod their heads and grind their teeth. And they hates me for it, yessssss, they hates me for the exclamation points! DMT Aren't parent/child relationships so rewarding/frustrating?!?! I've never seen kids and adults fight so bad as a parent trying to get their kid to do something. Not that I'm accusing you of doing that - but I've seen some bad ones, probably been in a couple myself (on both ends).
Some days I'm nurturing and loving and well, easy.
Ohter days I'm Captain Fucking Bleigh! Arrrgggghhh!
GET YOUR ASS UP THAT ROUTE! NOW!
Haha
DMT
|
|
|
|
|
irregularpanda
Mar 31, 2008, 4:35 PM
Post #60 of 124
(1999 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 13, 2007
Posts: 1364
|
ClusterFock wrote: I can't fucking stand people yelling out BETA while I'm on a climb...when it's not asked of them. I truly understand that on the most part the people that do it are just trying to be genuinely helpful, so I never have a go at them, but sometimes you get those fucking tossers (always seam to be gym rats) that do it purely to spray.
Ditto that. I had a run in with unsolicited-beta-man this week.
For a long time I thought unsolicited-beta-man was just a function of boulderers and my home gym in Olympia, WA, but apparently they climb outside now.
|
|
|
|
|
unbreakablesoul
Mar 31, 2008, 4:40 PM
Post #61 of 124
(1996 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 7, 2007
Posts: 47
|
miavzero wrote: unbreakablesoul wrote: Pet peeves... Well other people is probably my #1. I don't climb for social reasons, I climb for myself. So when other people are around it just damages the experience that I am looking for (just me and my partner in the wilderness) #2 In the event that I can't get away from the crowds I hate people who spray beta at you. "The crux is where the crack moves right, bring a #5 stopper or your screwed!" When that happens I'm just thinking thanks for taking the adventure away. So then I go to my rack and take the #5 stopper off so it's not even an option. Who knows maybe I'm just antisocial! Yet you hang out here?
Well, I don't think I hang out here so much as I write a post here and there when it's snowing outside or too cold to climb. Second, I do love climbing and support it's progression and other climbers. Just because I want to climb on my own terms doesn't mean I think you should quit climbing. Third the internet isn't a wilderness experience for me and noone here is telling me the beta for my next climb.
So as an outdoor professional there is plenty to be gained from reading posts and seeing another side of the industry. Just the other day I read about people filing down their tricams. Since I climb on my own a lot I never would have learned that had I not been reading here.
|
|
|
|
|
Gmburns2000
Mar 31, 2008, 4:45 PM
Post #62 of 124
(1988 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
|
rhythm164 wrote: clipping your chalkbag to your haul loop with a carabiner
Wrapping an extra frigging strap around my waist just to hold a chalk bag when I've got two spots on the back of my harness that'll do just fine.
|
|
|
|
|
Gmburns2000
Mar 31, 2008, 4:57 PM
Post #63 of 124
(1977 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
|
aerili wrote: (why can't we have long shorts like the guys for crying out loud)
And what would the guys do then, actually pay attention to the climbing? Geesh, some folks are so selfish.
|
|
|
|
|
petsfed
Mar 31, 2008, 7:42 PM
Post #64 of 124
(1898 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
|
Gmburns2000 wrote: rhythm164 wrote: clipping your chalkbag to your haul loop with a carabiner Wrapping an extra frigging strap around my waist just to hold a chalk bag when I've got two spots on the back of my harness that'll do just fine.
Using anything other than an accessory crab (one of those stamped "not for climbing use") makes you a gumby. Rock and Ice says so.
I actually hate clipping my chalkbag to my harness because it takes up valuable gear loop space, and sets the bag way too low.
|
|
|
|
|
Gmburns2000
Mar 31, 2008, 7:49 PM
Post #65 of 124
(1892 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
|
petsfed wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: rhythm164 wrote: clipping your chalkbag to your haul loop with a carabiner Wrapping an extra frigging strap around my waist just to hold a chalk bag when I've got two spots on the back of my harness that'll do just fine. Using anything other than an accessory crab (one of those stamped "not for climbing use") makes you a gumby. Rock and Ice says so. I actually hate clipping my chalkbag to my harness because it takes up valuable gear loop space, and sets the bag way too low.
That's what I use, a crappy biner that came off a key chain.
Actually, my comment wasn't very fair because my harness has two "fabric" loops on the back that aren't gear loops. One is a haul loop, and the other is a much smaller loop above the haul loop that is meant for chalk bags, but both are made from the same material. So my harness kind of makes it easier to clip a bag to the harness without taking up space for gear or being too low.
|
|
|
|
|
curt
Apr 1, 2008, 5:55 AM
Post #66 of 124
(1801 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
|
irregularpanda wrote: ...For a long time I thought unsolicited-beta-man was just a function of boulderers and my home gym in Olympia, WA, but apparently they climb outside now.
Yes they do--in fact, for longer than there have been climbing gyms.
Curt
|
|
|
|
|
EPiCJAMES
Apr 1, 2008, 6:47 AM
Post #67 of 124
(1784 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 8, 2007
Posts: 391
|
i hate it when i'm working on a boulder problem, then your partner does the problem (knowing he can do it no problem) completely blowing the thinking aspect. i've since learned to close my eyes when he gets on my problems.
|
|
|
|
|
notapplicable
Apr 1, 2008, 7:40 PM
Post #69 of 124
(1706 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17771
|
fearlessclimber wrote: billl7 wrote: Climbers who think it was a bonafide epic if you had to put on headlamps.  hahahahahhahahahahaha, funny shit...heard too many of those.
So if I leave my headlight in the car, can I rightfuly call all "post dusk" walkouts "epics"?
If so, I've got mucho bragging rights that I havent been cashing in on.
|
|
|
|
|
rangerrob
Apr 1, 2008, 8:27 PM
Post #70 of 124
(1671 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 8, 2003
Posts: 641
|
I've always wondered why people wrap that stupid sling around their waist just to hang a chalkbag off of it. Seems kinda dumb and cumbersome. I've always just clipped it to the back of my harness.
RR
|
|
|
|
|
rangerrob
Apr 1, 2008, 8:29 PM
Post #71 of 124
(1670 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 8, 2003
Posts: 641
|
People who don't know how to freakin make a simple butterfly coil. Jesus Christ man, open up a book and learn how to do it the right way. It's not that hard.
RR
|
|
|
|
|
dingus
Apr 1, 2008, 8:32 PM
Post #72 of 124
(1668 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
curt wrote: irregularpanda wrote: ...For a long time I thought unsolicited-beta-man was just a function of boulderers and my home gym in Olympia, WA, but apparently they climb outside now. Yes they do--in fact, for longer than there have been climbing gyms. Curt
Yeah the kids these days think they invented this shit, too funny.
NEWSFLASH! Climbers spew unsoliticed beta. Before that they spewed unwanted advice, gasp!
(for you diaper clad noobs, the term beta is younger than the practice)
DMT
|
|
|
|
|
olderic
Apr 1, 2008, 9:25 PM
Post #73 of 124
(1621 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1539
|
rangerrob wrote: I've always wondered why people wrap that stupid sling around their waist just to hang a chalkbag off of it. Seems kinda dumb and cumbersome. I've always just clipped it to the back of my harness. RR
1. When you are old and broken enough such that it hurts your shoulders to put your hand in that position.
2. When you are doing a real manly route that requires your back/butt to be pressed against one wall.
3. When you want to run up something with just shoes and a chalk bag.
Then you will realize that there can be advantages to putting your chalk bag some place else then attached to your harness.
|
|
|
|
|
petsfed
Apr 1, 2008, 9:56 PM
Post #74 of 124
(1601 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
|
olderic wrote: rangerrob wrote: I've always wondered why people wrap that stupid sling around their waist just to hang a chalkbag off of it. Seems kinda dumb and cumbersome. I've always just clipped it to the back of my harness. RR 1. When you are old and broken enough such that it hurts your shoulders to put your hand in that position. 2. When you are doing a real manly route that requires your back/butt to be pressed against one wall. 3. When you want to run up something with just shoes and a chalk bag. Then you will realize that there can be advantages to putting your chalk bag some place else then attached to your harness.
#2 is the other reason I use a chalk bag belt. Moving that damned thing to either hip means I can chalk up without falling out of the ass-jam I've engaged myself in, and the chalk bag isn't sitting below my ass, where I can't get at it with the hand on the opposite side of my body from the bag.
|
|
|
|
|
robdotcalm
Apr 1, 2008, 11:14 PM
Post #75 of 124
(1575 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 31, 2002
Posts: 1027
|
rangerrob wrote: I've always wondered why people wrap that stupid sling around their waist just to hang a chalkbag off of it. Seems kinda dumb and cumbersome. I've always just clipped it to the back of my harness. RR
In addition to the reasons already mentioned using a 5.5 mm sling is handy to have for setting a rappel station. I use a 6 foot 5.5 mm sling. Here’s an excerpt from an earlier post of mine. fast descent
« it would be faster and safer [in the lightening storm] to … rappel straight down the east face …. I tie in my chalk bag with a 5.5 mm sling and carry a rappel ring in the bag. I was able to run the sling thru a hole in the rock. I rappelled first and we backed up the sling with some Camalots in a crack higher up. I got down safely. Tim removed the Camalots and hurried down»
Cheers,
Rob.calm
_______________________________________________________
‘Tis better to have trad and failed then not to have trad at all.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
