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What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner?
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uni_jim


Jul 28, 2009, 7:54 PM
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Re: [joeforte] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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joeforte wrote:
I don't see a reason NOT to use 6mm cord as your chalkbag belt. I used mine to backup a bunch of sketchy rap slings in the Delaware Water Gap once. I was really glad I had it.

i do not have a problem with using webbing or cord to tie up a chalkbag, i have a problem with not carrying enough slings/prusics/webbing for a route. I don't want to have to scavange every little bit of full strength whatever that i have on my person.


scrapedape


Jul 28, 2009, 8:27 PM
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Re: [joeforte] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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joeforte wrote:
I was really glad I had it. I use a 6mm cord tied into a 48" runner, doubled over as my chalk bag belt.

Holy shit, what are you, like 10 years old or something?


bill413


Jul 28, 2009, 9:21 PM
Post #53 of 64 (3316 views)
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Re: [joeforte] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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joeforte wrote:
trapdoor wrote:
I don't see anything wrong with carrying someting that does double duty like a 6 mil cord for your chalk bag. Where could you go wrong with that?

I think it's a great idea. Some guys are just too badass to admit that it is. I don't see a reason NOT to use 6mm cord as your chalkbag belt. I used mine to backup a bunch of sketchy rap slings in the Delaware Water Gap once. I was really glad I had it. I use a 6mm cord tied into a 48" runner, doubled over as my chalk bag belt. And like someone posted earlier, 6mm makes a better friction hitch than the 7mm cord my cordelette is made from

My Oh Shit biner has the following:

Petzl Attache locker (Can be used with a munter hitch for rap/belay)
2 5mm prussics
Trango Pirana knife
Tibloc
Small plastic pulley
A tiny LED light that clips to the brim of my helmet. (Saved my ass once already)
Kong Gigi belay plate
Quicklink
Rap ring
Tiny wrench (I do a lot of anchor replacement)

I'll take a picture and weight it later. I leave it on the ground for hard sport routes, but on anything else, I consider it "training weight". Wink

Why the belay plate when you have the HMS binr? Oh, and the pulley?


joeforte


Jul 29, 2009, 1:28 AM
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Re: [bill413] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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bill413 wrote:
joeforte wrote:
trapdoor wrote:
I don't see anything wrong with carrying someting that does double duty like a 6 mil cord for your chalk bag. Where could you go wrong with that?

I think it's a great idea. Some guys are just too badass to admit that it is. I don't see a reason NOT to use 6mm cord as your chalkbag belt. I used mine to backup a bunch of sketchy rap slings in the Delaware Water Gap once. I was really glad I had it. I use a 6mm cord tied into a 48" runner, doubled over as my chalk bag belt. And like someone posted earlier, 6mm makes a better friction hitch than the 7mm cord my cordelette is made from

My Oh Shit biner has the following:

Petzl Attache locker (Can be used with a munter hitch for rap/belay)
2 5mm prussics
Trango Pirana knife
Tibloc
Small plastic pulley
A tiny LED light that clips to the brim of my helmet. (Saved my ass once already)
Kong Gigi belay plate
Quicklink
Rap ring
Tiny wrench (I do a lot of anchor replacement)

I'll take a picture and weight it later. I leave it on the ground for hard sport routes, but on anything else, I consider it "training weight". Wink

Why the belay plate when you have the HMS binr? Oh, and the pulley?

The belay plate is for when my buddy drops/forgets his. The pulley makes a 5:1 SO much easier. Like I said, it's all on my haul loop and I don't even notice it.


(This post was edited by joeforte on Jul 29, 2009, 1:29 AM)


joeforte


Jul 29, 2009, 1:33 AM
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Re: [scrapedape] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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scrapedape wrote:
joeforte wrote:
I was really glad I had it. I use a 6mm cord tied into a 48" runner, doubled over as my chalk bag belt.

Holy shit, what are you, like 10 years old or something?

Why? I'm thin, a 30" waist to be exact. I think you took "doubled over" the wrong way. What I meant is that I don't just tie it as a single strand. It's pre-tied as a 48" runner, and I use it as a single strand.


rockreaver


Jul 30, 2009, 5:02 AM
Post #56 of 64 (3261 views)
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Re: [dingus] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
I don't carry an oh shit biner. I do carry a harness knife. I'll have a headlamp on me someplace, if I reckon I might need it. More stuff, goal, season and weather dependant.

Rarely bother with prusik cords (redundant) for free climbing - I carry slings, good enough in a pinch.

Don't own a tibloc and don't see the reason for one.

Plastic pulleys? For free climbing? I can't imagine ....

Is an empty oh shit biner indicative of some fundamental lacking on the climber's part?

Or does it show she has her SHIT TOGETHER, instead?

Quien sabe???

Been meaning to get back to you on this. I guess my notion of "Oh shit" has little or nothing to do with climbing. Everything that people have suggested I already have on my person in different machinations. I have some prussiks that are always on 2 gear loops spaced too far apart where I feel there's room for another gear loop. Dual function suits me well enough. I have not the slightest what I'd do with a tibloc or a plastic pulley.

However the replies I didn't see are actually what I carry in a fully water-tight ESD bag that has been taped to hell with duct tape in a way the tape is reuseable and I've got about 10 feet of it coiled around the bag. I have a wire loop threaded through all the contents of the bag and it sticks out a small hole that I can attach via cheapo-biner to anything. In the bag I have:

20 strike anywhere matches.
1 thermometer, small and cheap
1 compass small and cheap
1 mirror (very small) in a plastic sheath
1 very thin, very bright emergency panel that when hung out is visible from 2 miles or more on a clear day.
6 fish hooks
30 feet of fishing twine
2 sinkers (all the fishing stuff is in with the mirror).
1 needle
100' of thread (with dual medicinal applications)
2 spare buttons
a shoe lace
1 large plastic sheet (water barrier)

I have some other stuff all packed very tightly into something I hope to never open but just in case I do have it. It goes on my rear belay loop for multi-pitch or stays in my pack on TR days.

That's the oh-shit I'm thinking of. The oh-shit that something is terribly wrong and we have to make this work for a day or two.


scottydo


Jul 30, 2009, 6:03 AM
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Re: [rockreaver] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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a prussik loop and a texas prussik


dingus


Jul 30, 2009, 1:37 PM
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Re: [rockreaver] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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rockreaver wrote:
dingus wrote:
I don't carry an oh shit biner. I do carry a harness knife. I'll have a headlamp on me someplace, if I reckon I might need it. More stuff, goal, season and weather dependant.

Rarely bother with prusik cords (redundant) for free climbing - I carry slings, good enough in a pinch.

Don't own a tibloc and don't see the reason for one.

Plastic pulleys? For free climbing? I can't imagine ....

Is an empty oh shit biner indicative of some fundamental lacking on the climber's part?

Or does it show she has her SHIT TOGETHER, instead?

Quien sabe???

Been meaning to get back to you on this. I guess my notion of "Oh shit" has little or nothing to do with climbing. Everything that people have suggested I already have on my person in different machinations. I have some prussiks that are always on 2 gear loops spaced too far apart where I feel there's room for another gear loop. Dual function suits me well enough. I have not the slightest what I'd do with a tibloc or a plastic pulley.

However the replies I didn't see are actually what I carry in a fully water-tight ESD bag that has been taped to hell with duct tape in a way the tape is reuseable and I've got about 10 feet of it coiled around the bag. I have a wire loop threaded through all the contents of the bag and it sticks out a small hole that I can attach via cheapo-biner to anything. In the bag I have:

20 strike anywhere matches.
1 thermometer, small and cheap
1 compass small and cheap
1 mirror (very small) in a plastic sheath
1 very thin, very bright emergency panel that when hung out is visible from 2 miles or more on a clear day.
6 fish hooks
30 feet of fishing twine
2 sinkers (all the fishing stuff is in with the mirror).
1 needle
100' of thread (with dual medicinal applications)
2 spare buttons
a shoe lace
1 large plastic sheet (water barrier)

I have some other stuff all packed very tightly into something I hope to never open but just in case I do have it. It goes on my rear belay loop for multi-pitch or stays in my pack on TR days.

That's the oh-shit I'm thinking of. The oh-shit that something is terribly wrong and we have to make this work for a day or two.

Aye in the back country I have my 'ditty bag.'

Knife, extra lighter, tape, some pain medication, some smoke medication, maybe a compass (if I have a working one)... sunscreen, etc.

I like your little survival items though. Clearly you've given it a lot of thought and have a great oh shit kit.

Cheers
DMT


rockreaver


Jul 30, 2009, 3:40 PM
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Re: [dingus] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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What I want to get is a small dry bag for it all but haven't gotten around to it yet. The appeal of shiny climbing gear keeps taking control of my money. I'd like to get a small dry bag that I can put some other stuff in. I think it would be the best place for the porno-mag, water-bong, razor blades, hemp etc... That's what I love about climbing it's such a multi-purpose distraction. You climb... and then in camp you have to distraction yourself and your *all* female climbing partner(s). It's a lot for a guy to think about.

Need to figure out a way to get one of those portable soda fountains out into the boonies too. I'm convinced that a properly carbonated coke (the likes of what McDonald's serves) could very well save a life or two.

You know why it's called the "oh shit" bag? Because if the police ever caught me with it that's what I'd be thinking.WinkCoolBlushAngelicCrazyPirate


scrapedape


Jul 30, 2009, 4:01 PM
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Re: [joeforte] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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joeforte wrote:
scrapedape wrote:
joeforte wrote:
I was really glad I had it. I use a 6mm cord tied into a 48" runner, doubled over as my chalk bag belt.

Holy shit, what are you, like 10 years old or something?

Why? I'm thin, a 30" waist to be exact. I think you took "doubled over" the wrong way. What I meant is that I don't just tie it as a single strand. It's pre-tied as a 48" runner, and I use it as a single strand.

Just giving you a hard time. 48" doubled over made it sound like you had a 24" waist. Still not clear what you're saying you do with it.


scrapedape


Jul 30, 2009, 4:20 PM
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Re: [rockreaver] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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rockreaver wrote:
20 strike anywhere matches.
1 thermometer, small and cheap
1 compass small and cheap
1 mirror (very small) in a plastic sheath
1 very thin, very bright emergency panel that when hung out is visible from 2 miles or more on a clear day.
6 fish hooks
30 feet of fishing twine
2 sinkers (all the fishing stuff is in with the mirror).
1 needle
100' of thread (with dual medicinal applications)
2 spare buttons
a shoe lace
1 large plastic sheet (water barrier)

Sounds like what they used to have us carry around in cub scouts. A couple of comments:

I think a lighter is much more valuable than matches. For the same amount of weight and space you can get hundreds of lights instead of 20.

I'm not sure I see the benefit of fishing tackle, buttons, and thread if you're just trying to survive for a couple of days. I'd be more worried about having drinkable water - maybe throw in some iodine tablets, possibly carry your whole oh shit kit in a water bottle - though you'll probably have a water bottle regardless.

An orange garbage bag can double as a water barrier and something to attract attention.

A thermometer? Not sure how valuable this is. You'll know if it's cold enough to worry about hypothermia or hot enough to worry about dehydration.

As for me, in addition to the climbing-related stuff, I typically have a knife and a whistle (go ahead, make fun) on my harness, and a headlamp and a lighter in my pocket, when climbing multipitch. Sometimes a space blanket in my back pocket, depending on the situation.

After witnessing a nasty broken ankle this spring, I'm thinking about taking along a stash of vicodin.

Edit to add: I like to have 5 or 10 feet of duct tape wrapped around my lighter too.


(This post was edited by scrapedape on Jul 30, 2009, 4:21 PM)


rockreaver


Jul 30, 2009, 4:32 PM
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Re: [scrapedape] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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scrapedape wrote:
I think a lighter is much more valuable than matches. For the same amount of weight and space you can get hundreds of lights instead of 20.

I always carry this little coleman torch lighter thingie. The matches are "redundant" backup.

scrapedape wrote:
I'm not sure I see the benefit of fishing tackle, buttons, and thread if you're just trying to survive for a couple of days.

The fishing gear isn't always just for fishing you can use it for survival in a lot of interesting ways. You can make some wonderful snares and such. The button... hmm well I had a button break once and it just pissed me off so now I carry two and yeah... it's personal I suppose. I didn't mention the iodine tablets but I have them. I thought my post was getting long.

scrapedape wrote:
A thermometer? Not sure how valuable this is. You'll know if it's cold enough to worry about hypothermia or hot enough to worry about dehydration.

I have a whistle, pain meds and a few other obscurities I just plain forget. I have tried to maximize useful while saving weight.


ShibbyShane


Jul 30, 2009, 5:59 PM
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Re: [sungam] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
... and (giggle) my pant belt is 1" tubular webbing.

How do you tie/adjust it?


sungam


Jul 30, 2009, 7:24 PM
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Re: [ShibbyShane] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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ShibbyShane wrote:
sungam wrote:
... and (giggle) my pant belt is 1" tubular webbing.

How do you tie/adjust it?
Geogoddess had some spare Metolious buckles from her crashpad. I used one of those.

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