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curt
Dec 9, 2002, 3:34 AM
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OK, here goes--
The Mad Rock Phoenix shoe review.
I took my new pair of Mad Rock Phoenix shoes out to Oak Flats today for some bouldering on real rock. I used the shoes on boulder problems from V0 to V5 or so in difficulty, some requiring quite delicate footwork.
First of all, the Mad Rock Phoenix shoes are quite comfortable, even if sized tight. The shape of the toe is quite good for me. It is not curved way over and pointed where your big toe is--rather the toe is somewhat rounded, which I like because my middle toe is longer than my big toe. Shoes built on severly curved lasts do not fit me well. So they passed the comfort test for me.
Oak flats (for those not familiar) is an area of volcanic rock type outside of Phoenix that requires various footwork technique. There are pockets to toe into, small edges, friction places, etc. The Phoenix shoes edge very well, in spite of not being all that stiff. I could toe into all but the smallest toe pockets with these shoes as well. There were only a very few places where a more pointy toe shape would have helped for "front pointing" but then I would like the shoes less, for reasons of fit explained above.
Last of all--the rubber. The Mad Rock Phoenix does not have the "dual-density" sole found on the more advanced Mad Rock shoes. Instead, all of the sole is made from what they call "formula 5" rubber. Mad Rock advertizes this to be their harder rubber composition, that is stickier than 5.10's rubber. I would say that this rubber seemed to me to be at least as good as the 5.10 C4 composition, from a performance standpoint. I have never used the 5.10 HF rubber, so someone else will have to offer their opinion on that comparison. Also, time will tell how both the rubber and the uppers of these will wear.
In summary, I like them a lot. Unless they fall apart quickly I think Mad Rock has a winner here. For the price, you can't beat them. I am thinking about trying their slipper (Shark) too. If I get some of those, I will post my review of that shoe here also.
Curt
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duskerhu
Dec 9, 2002, 6:11 AM
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Very Nice curt; that's the best "review" on any Mad Rocks I've seen yet.
The following is what gearweenie had to say concerning his new Hooker Zips in another thread...
Quote:Heel fits better than any shoe I've ever owned... I've owned several five ten shoes. These fit about the same, but are a bit more comfortable in the heel. I can wear about a half size smaller in the Mad Rocks than I can in a Five Ten. I had some boreals and La Sportivas also but I have to go look and see how the sizing is, Seems different from model to model im my La Sportiva shoes. I can wear about 1 1/2 smaller than my street shoe in the Mad Rock. I bought 1 size smaller but could have went more.
GW
Thanks guys, I can't wait to get mine... I'll relay my opinion when they come in.
duskerhu
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billcoe_
Dec 9, 2002, 9:13 PM
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Thank Curt (and everybody else too) for the honest open opinions of this shoe.
About a year ago: I e-mailed 5.10 that they needed to improve their quality or face a competitor that would steal their marketshare. (they must have been laughing at that, like who could have done it? Scarpa? Boreal? uhhh, no.)
Here it comes, and I think shoes will become better and we will benefit.
Bill
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dencio
Dec 9, 2002, 10:45 PM
Post #54 of 142
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thanks for all the great feedback guys!
I'm still anxious to hear from the people who got the mugens and the sharks though as these are the models I am leaning towards.
the general concensus seems to be that they fit really well in the heel. really interested if this is really the case even with the mugen.
what I'd really like to see is a point by point comparison between the mugen and anasazzi velcro, the shark and the moccasym
keep em coming guys
special mention to functimonious ( check out his harness thread ) for adding entertainment value to this thread ( 2340 views as of last count )
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gearweenie
Dec 10, 2002, 2:04 AM
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Found this on another post from TRIASSIC in Prove Utah.
"I've climbed in a pair of Mugens from Mad Rock for 4 climbing days. One day bouldering in the gym and 3 days bouldering on sandstone near Joe's Valley. I've done around 120 problems in the shoes and they're super sweet. The heel hooking is awesome. I've done a V5 slab, a V4 roof crack, a V7 steep, and tons of other types of problems. They climb well on all angles. The shoes perform excellent and the price is great. Can't wait to try the Hookers! "
GW
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markd
Dec 10, 2002, 2:15 AM
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I recently picked up a pair of the velcro Mad Rock shoes, not sure the name but they look very similair to the Anasazi's.
I think they are a good shoe for the money but they don't have the performance of the Anasazi(the shoe I'm used to). I find it harder to stand on small holds, or smears, as there not as soft or responsive as I would like, while climbing at your limit.
That being said, for the money you probably can't go wrong and they're only going to get better.
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funktimonious
Dec 10, 2002, 2:22 AM
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it's a "k", not a "c".
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phaedrus
Dec 10, 2002, 2:26 AM
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I get my Hookers and my Sharks tomorrow. If I don't get outside before sunset, I'll be hitting the gym and will post my comments asap....
*feels like a kid at Christmas... what a geek*
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coloradoclimber
Dec 10, 2002, 2:46 AM
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My hooker zips came today and they look so nice but there to small and i have to send them back and wait even longer to try them out. (tear tear) ohh wait They look awesome though.
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timpanogos
Dec 11, 2002, 5:13 AM
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TRIASSIC is also one of the main men when it comes to climbing in Utah County - when it comes to gear or climbing from him - listen up.
Chad
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dencio
Dec 11, 2002, 5:29 AM
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naah! from now on I'm only going to listen to functimonius and base all of my future climbing purchases only on what he says
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gearweenie
Dec 11, 2002, 6:38 AM
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Found this, posted by Brogen on another thread
"I have been testing these shoes for the Mad Rock USA and they preform better than my "Old Favorites" Anasazi Laceups. I have been using the Hooker Zipper and the Mugen. I say these shoes are the greatest thing since sticky rubber"
GW
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jmitch8119
Dec 11, 2002, 9:24 PM
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So are these shoes deffinetly worth trying out. They aren't expensive but $80 still puts a dent in your wallet, especially if your a broke student like myself. Also how does the mugen compare to the hooker, and lace ups compare to zippers or velcro? Any ideas? Thanks
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calimouth
Dec 11, 2002, 9:48 PM
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ok, i'm definitely interested in these shoes, but i have one concern. Since the design of the sole has the whole hard and soft components, will the sole wear especially fast for gym climbing? My gym shoes wear faster more towards the balls of my feet, where the rubber on mad rocks is softer. I would use them outside, but some of us don't have the advantage of 60 degree winters.
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curt
Dec 14, 2002, 1:31 AM
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calimouth,
If you are really concerned about the wear of the dual-density soles, get either the "Flash" or the "Phoenix" model. They have a sole made from only the harder type of rubber.
Curt
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otherain
Dec 14, 2002, 6:42 PM
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Ok, you talked me into it. IM GETTING A PAIR.
thanks, ive been trying to find info about these shoes for days.
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beethovenboy
Dec 14, 2002, 7:36 PM
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I'm with Alanshearer on this one!
Spiral out...
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madriver
Dec 15, 2002, 12:21 AM
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Brian and D.C area climbers
SR Sterling has a pair of Mugens and the laceups (don't know which? sorry) in size 8 for demo ask Rob or somebody who knows and try them out. They look great and the people who could fit into them had good things to say...awesome edging and heel hooking, with really sticky rubber. Vic and I could not fit in them (not that I could climb in them) but check em out SR is probably going to buy them for rental! Bob D. tried the lace up, ask him hes a PRO!
Imelda "Vicky" Marcos
Remember "the best shoes are FREE!!!
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jmitch8119
Dec 16, 2002, 4:51 AM
Post #69 of 142
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Alright I gave in, I put my order in for the mugens. Im still pissed though, I prolly wont get them for another 7 or 8 days. bullsh*t, w/e though the best things come to those who wait. Ill post my review when I get them. Peace.
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fo_d
Dec 16, 2002, 7:45 PM
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I wish it was only 7-8 days, its 2 weeks now and still no sign of my shoes
Les
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missedyno
Dec 17, 2002, 1:12 AM
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other threads about mad rock shoes:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=17088&forum=40
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=19437&forum=40
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=19224&forum=40
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=17641&forum=40
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=21354&forum=40
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=20660&forum=40
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=14845&forum=40
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=20831&forum=40
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=21748&forum=23
this one has the most responses.... here's some other info. i'll lock the ones that are similar....
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high_times
Dec 17, 2002, 1:33 AM
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I hate it when jack asses say there are soooo many threads on something and why don't you go look for it. Dude...the post wouldn't be up if the person found it so be a good lad and just give info...otherwise go beat off!!
Just my .02 on the matter that has nothing to do with the topic.
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missedyno
Dec 17, 2002, 1:41 AM
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i WAS giving the info so i don't have to do the search all over again every time one of these threads go up. i'll just consider this the main thread on mad rock shoes and tidy up the others. this does have the most responses and other info.
thanks for the sentiment though.
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billcoe_
Dec 17, 2002, 3:29 PM
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Thank you for doing the research and the work Fawkes.
Realistically, it's probably time for those's of us interested in a pair of madrock shoes to quit talking about them and just go buy a pair.
Bill
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missedyno
Dec 17, 2002, 4:31 PM
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yeah, i was looking at their site..... there was a pair of slippers on there i thought looked cool, so if they were making shoes for 5.10, does that mean this should be good 5.10ish rubber?
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