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climbnd
May 28, 2004, 3:16 PM
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I think the slackline really helped my fear of falling.
The problem everyone has at first while slacklining is instant elvis leg, which i've come to realize is purely a psychological fear. In climbing elvis leg doesnt happen as quickly but once it happens your onsight has gone to crap. But once i got good at slacklining after a large number of head first falls and my elvis leg long gone, i can take a 35 foot whipper and not think twice about getting back on the route and trying it again.
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climbnd
May 28, 2004, 3:28 PM
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also...
i'm not sold that slacklinging is a good crosstrain for balance...
when i first started slacklining, i didnt know how to do the z-pulley so my slackline was extremely loose, i would have it 5 feet in the air and it would sink to a foot off the ground. my point is after i got really good on my loose line, i started trying to walk on the line at Miguels in RRG and i couldn't take 5 steps... the reason i deduced was because i trained myself on the loose line which is totally different for my inner ear, so i had to retrain my inner-ear balance on the tight line.
my point is if tension and also mobility of the line causes such a difference, then i completely immobile and ultimately tight ridge would be nothing the same.
To test this out i guess would be to try out the opposite line that you use, or better yet try out walking on a hand rail somewhere's in a park or sidewalk... pratically immobile.
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slacklinejoe
May 28, 2004, 3:37 PM
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Coming late to the thread but I might as well add my 2 cents.
In addition to what has already been said (balance, mental focus, core muscle building) I've noticed a few other advantages from slacklines:
Body positioning - contoring your body to control your center of gravity - there is no way in heck you can convince me that doesn't help on a wall. I'd say that alone increased my climbing at least half a letter grade.
It speeds up your reflexes a LOT - landing smoothly requires cat like reflexes - if nothing else, it helps you get your body position faster, which is important for falling - either on a rope or bouldering. Mine got MUCH better since I've been slacking a lot. It also might serve to get you in ideal body position faster and help you when the stuff hits the fan.
Rigging skills - slacklines are pretty debated on how you should rig them, but out the the foray you learn lots of important other techniques and equipment specifications.
Mastering fear of falling - if you learn to slack, you will fall, repetitivaly. It helps give you the mental preparation for harder routes which will require you falling rather than staying below your abilities and helps you trust your equipment.
Social skills - Ok this one is a stretch, but if you go climbing in a group people tend to stay in a group. A slackline is a lot more of an invitation to other groups to come play as well. Or at least it seems that way around here. You set up a few good lines at a crag and neighboring parties want to join (sometimes you might get free beer, good beta or a new belay partner in the exchange).
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jt512
May 28, 2004, 3:55 PM
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In reply to: I am sure you guys have heard about the benefits of cross-training. Marc B.
I heard the rumor. Then I read the research. Cross-training has its place, but its benefits are indirect, and rather minor. For instance, endurance built by running has essentially no impact on the type of endurance needed for hard sport climbing. Its benefit to sport climbing is that it helps you keep your weight down, and maybe helps you recover from your last climbing session.
-Jay
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jt512
May 28, 2004, 3:59 PM
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In reply to: aw, c'mon y'all! I ain't started slackin' yet but it appeals to a similar side of my psyche, the side that likes sport activities that are fun because they're tricky - also the CLIMBING applications may not be so specific, as per jt512's argument (don't argue with that dude, he's subtle and usually unassailable); but the MOUNTAINEERING applications are undeniable - especially if you like ridgewalking or even narrow ledges.
OK, I'll agree with that. Slacklining is good training for walking knifeblade ridges. But it still seems like better training for rough carpentry work than for rock climbimg.
-Jay
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slacklinejoe
May 28, 2004, 4:01 PM
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Jay, I think you need a hug or something.
You've got about a dozen or more serious slackers saying it directly made a difference for them and the only nay sayers have either not done it, or have little experience in doing it.
Survey says......
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mush
May 28, 2004, 4:06 PM
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elvis legs are not purely psychological...retaining a tight posture on a line requires the stabilizing musculature on the medial and lateral portions of the thighs and legs. if the stabilizing musculature is weak, so will be one's ability to retain a solid stance(s).
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mush
May 28, 2004, 4:08 PM
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good point re: inner ear differences in maintaining balance on various tensioned lines... but each line holds differential training purpose
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jt512
May 28, 2004, 4:09 PM
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In reply to: Body positioning - contoring your body to control your center of gravity - there is no way in heck you can convince me that doesn't help on a wall. I'd say that alone increased my climbing at least half a letter grade.
Half a letter grade?
In reply to: It speeds up your reflexes a LOT - landing smoothly requires cat like reflexes - if nothing else, it helps you get your body position faster, which is important for falling - either on a rope or bouldering. Mine got MUCH better since I've been slacking a lot. It also might serve to get you in ideal body position faster and help you when the stuff hits the fan.
I can see that. I probably take this for granted, since, between martial arts, skydiving, rock climbing, and even a primitive version of slacklining we practiced when I was a kid, I've spent my whole life falling.
In reply to: you might get free beer
Why was this not mentioned sooner?
-Jay
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slacklinejoe
May 28, 2004, 4:14 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Half a letter grade?
I'd plateued - and was frustrated. It made a big difference - granted we're talking lower numbers here not 5.12's - I'm a mediocre climber at best.
Kind of like SlackDaddy - I'm a slackliner who climbs not a climber who slacklines - or at least anymore I am.
When in public, it attracts the oppositie sex quite well, however I'm not sure I can apply that to climbing other than alternative uses of a portaledge.
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rocdaug
May 28, 2004, 4:18 PM
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no offense...
but, I think I'd rather climb to get better at climbing. If I ever get bored with climbing I might give slacking a try. but, living so near the rockies with a lifetime worth of climbing still out there, I can't really see that happening. If i did not live so close to so much climbing, I could see it.
my 2bits
rd
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areyoumydude
May 28, 2004, 4:18 PM
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Jay, you said "answer my question and I'll answer yours." What queation did I ask?
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jt512
May 28, 2004, 4:21 PM
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In reply to: You've got about a dozen or more serious slackers saying it directly made a difference for them and the only nay sayers have either not done it, or have little experience in doing it.
If you actually read the thread you'll see that the only "serious slacker" who has claimed that slacklining improved his climbing was you, and you claimed it helped by only half a letter grade, which is close to not at all.
-Jay
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mush
May 28, 2004, 4:21 PM
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meh, it's fun
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jt512
May 28, 2004, 4:23 PM
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In reply to: Jay, you said "answer my question and I'll answer yours." What queation did I ask?
I give up on you, since you have failed to make a single point in four posts, and in fact cannot even follow the thread.
-Jay
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neverfalls
May 28, 2004, 4:28 PM
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When you Slackline you have to use your arms and legs to move your center of gravity so that you don't fall off the Slackline. This principle applies to climbing because it helps you focus on what would happen if you reached with your left hand as opposed to stepping up or whatever. It doesn't really help with strength or endurance, Its all about balance!!
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slacklinejoe
May 28, 2004, 4:29 PM
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This thread reminds me distinctly of when grade school teachers would say "Now class, if you just ignore him, he'll quit acting up for attention."
Did that ever work?
Sorry for off-topic, but I'd say without immediate resessitation the thread is in a coma (going in circles) - soon to slip off into death - despite being on an actual useful topic.
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areyoumydude
May 28, 2004, 4:35 PM
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You give up because you have nothing intelligent to say. I've read all the posts. You haven't even defended yourself from your earler post. You just come back saying I'll answer your question if you answer mine. I never asked a question. Stop being a tool and talk about something you know about.
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hotforclimbers
May 28, 2004, 4:36 PM
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I agree with slacklinejoe. Peace out, y'all.
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j-tha-b
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May 28, 2004, 4:37 PM
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cause its friggin awesome. no better way to waste time.
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gds
May 28, 2004, 4:44 PM
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Just some comments on cross training in general:
Pros:
1) most value at lower ends of performance- non elite climbers
2) helps avoid some overuse injuries
3) helps avoid mental staleness
4) at developmental ages helps develop overall athleticism
5) can be fun
Cons:
1) not specific enough training for elite performers to improve performance
2) uses energy and time resorces that can go toward specific training
I don't slackline but I do hike, cycle, swim, weight lift etc. I enjoy all of these and would rather do them than maximize on my climbing.
Besides I'll never be a great climber anyway. This way I can be a really good dilletante in a number of areas.
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jt512
May 28, 2004, 4:47 PM
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In reply to: You give up because you have nothing intelligent to say. I've read all the posts. You haven't even defended yourself from your earler post. You just come back saying I'll answer your question if you answer mine. I never asked a question. Stop being a tool and talk about something you know about.
5 posts, and you still haven't said anything substantive.
-Jay
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jt512
May 28, 2004, 4:52 PM
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In reply to: Just some comments on cross training in general: Pros: 4) at developmental [stages] helps develop overall athleticism
That is probably the best explanation behind why some newbies in the thread think that slacklining helps them.
-Jay
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leinosaur
May 28, 2004, 4:56 PM
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In reply to: What does it have to do with climbers? What I want to know is why . . . is slacklining such a huge thing in the climbing community?
Circles are OK in a thread - what this one has is a bunch of tangents ;
let's take it back to the original question, to which we've recently (finally) come up with some good points (one of them mine, IMN-S-HO):
The question asked, What does it have to do with CLIMBERS, (not CLIMBING):
1. (Like hackey-sack): Good for you, takes some skill, but so much fun that you don't really notice you're strengthening/developing skill
2. Shared equipment/locus: climbers' campgrounds tend to have trees and lots of webbing around; good line-setters get to show off some expertise for benefit of all
3. Campsite conversation (social lubricant); it's like the band in a bar, something immediate to focus on/talk about (spray replacement)
(includes BEER SHARING POTENTIAL)
anyhoo -
We plan to set up a slackline pursuant to inviting kids to join the school Outing Club, next fall. Tertiarily related, but fun.
leinosaur
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areyoumydude
May 28, 2004, 4:59 PM
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Whatever tool boy. Play your little games. I thought you were done with me? I said everything I needed to in my first post. And now you want to play on the merry-go-round. You have nothing substansive to say. You can't even defend youself from your "I doubt" post. I would wait around for your comment but I'm sure it will be as worthless as the rest of your comments.
Later, I'm going slacklining.
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