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caughtinside
Jul 10, 2011, 5:35 PM
Post #75951 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
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carabiner96 wrote: caughtinside wrote: Oh yes... the rangers were out and writing tickets yesterday. $75 fine for not paying for a $5 day parking pass, yuck. Mo, if you get that parks Access Pass (is that the one?) we can use it to save half the camping fee. They have traditional ranger booths there, right? I might have to get one there in person, I don't think I can do it online. Will bring an official document certifying my gimpiness, because waving your stump at them isn't enough (apparently.)
No ranger booth there. It is super low key, just a bulletin board and an iron ranger. If you can't get it in time don't sweat it, it's just 5 bucks a day and there will be like a dozen of us.
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kachoong
Jul 10, 2011, 5:43 PM
Post #75952 of 105309
(3465 views)
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 15304
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caughtinside wrote: kachoong wrote: caughtinside wrote: Back from the Leap. The terrierist is still azleep. He is totally worked. Thursday went out to Eagle Lake cliffs, the tahoe crack climbing spot. Got in a few good ones. We walked down to a newish crag below to do some stuff but it was totally drenched. There were two dry routes so we did them. written description was unclear, tried to warm up on a .9 but it turned out to be a heads up .10b. Way cool though. Between Two worlds. I think I used all my tiny stoppers. Went back to the main area and did a pretty sweet overhanging handcrack, Flight Simulator maybe was the name? I thought it was .10c but the guidebook fluff rating was .11a , so I got the softzight. Fireman Mike was there and had his rope up on the Spacewalk. He does a variation where you only climb the right side finger crack to start and avoid the flare. STandard way is .11c/d or so, and his variation he thinks is .12a? Steep cranker fingers, I can get up it on TR but there is one move I can't really free. Overhangs 5 degrees or so and there is a purple camalot section with sharp locks and no feet. Kaboom, this climb is on the cover of the Tahoe guide you got. Pretty rad. Mike just walks the thing. Yesterday went back to the leap with the Aerili. We were both a little tired but she was able to rp the billy route on the ledge, and then we chased shade down below to Magnum Force. I followed it 4 years ago and had to hang to get out a cam. Got it clean this time but shit it is hard for .10b. Feels a lot like tombstone, but longer. Has a dicey dicey start, way bouldery and you have to do a 5.10 mantle 20 feet up, above a #2 peenut. I pulled the move onto the ledge and my neck promptly cramped. ouch!!! Rest of the pitch was bitchen good fingerlocks with ok smears, secure but taxing and physical. Aerili had to hang to pull a cam in the same spot I did 4 years ago. It might just be a follower problem... you place it then traverse, so the rope is pulling on it making it tricky to finesse out. After that, moved the rope over to the Mainline for a tr run. The shared start is hard even on TR, ugh. Middle section not so bad and the thin hands to ring crux is nasty!! still, I got it on my third try, once I had the sequence figured. The crux is short, gearz good and the feet are better than I thought they would be so I think it will be a very manageable rp. Much more straightforward than Purple Haze. Hiked down, ran into Petch and Squirrel and had a beer, headed out. I'll be back up there on Wednesday looks like. Dude, yore really getting some miles in this year. I need to quit my jorb and tour around constantly climbing... would be grate! That cover climb looks pretty sweet. I'm at least a year out from climbing like that. I have been eyeing Hospital corner in the guide though. That thing looks doable for me... we'll see. I'd like to hop on some of those 8 and 9 face dike climbs too. Four weeks! Yeah, been climbing a bunch. Easier now that I've got some places to stay in South Lake. Hospital is a mega classic, the best .10a at the Leap. Plus, you can do it, rap back down, and do the crux pitch of West Wall (.8) right there which is also mega cool, more bang for your buck since you are already a pitch up. In addition to the famous .8 and .9 dike pitches on the East Wall, I know of a good dozen that are of similar quality that never get done.
Sounds fantastic! Something I can hope to Redsight after a few days of getting used to the rock. I look forward to trying lots of less-traveled climbs... keep away from the crowds, eh?
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kachoong
Jul 10, 2011, 5:45 PM
Post #75953 of 105309
(3462 views)
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
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Holy crap! More carshes in the TDF today... one very spectacular one with a team car swiping out a couple, with one guys flying head over 20ft into a barb wire fence.
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caughtinside
Jul 10, 2011, 5:54 PM
Post #75954 of 105309
(3458 views)
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
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kachoong wrote: caughtinside wrote: kachoong wrote: caughtinside wrote: Back from the Leap. The terrierist is still azleep. He is totally worked. Thursday went out to Eagle Lake cliffs, the tahoe crack climbing spot. Got in a few good ones. We walked down to a newish crag below to do some stuff but it was totally drenched. There were two dry routes so we did them. written description was unclear, tried to warm up on a .9 but it turned out to be a heads up .10b. Way cool though. Between Two worlds. I think I used all my tiny stoppers. Went back to the main area and did a pretty sweet overhanging handcrack, Flight Simulator maybe was the name? I thought it was .10c but the guidebook fluff rating was .11a , so I got the softzight. Fireman Mike was there and had his rope up on the Spacewalk. He does a variation where you only climb the right side finger crack to start and avoid the flare. STandard way is .11c/d or so, and his variation he thinks is .12a? Steep cranker fingers, I can get up it on TR but there is one move I can't really free. Overhangs 5 degrees or so and there is a purple camalot section with sharp locks and no feet. Kaboom, this climb is on the cover of the Tahoe guide you got. Pretty rad. Mike just walks the thing. Yesterday went back to the leap with the Aerili. We were both a little tired but she was able to rp the billy route on the ledge, and then we chased shade down below to Magnum Force. I followed it 4 years ago and had to hang to get out a cam. Got it clean this time but shit it is hard for .10b. Feels a lot like tombstone, but longer. Has a dicey dicey start, way bouldery and you have to do a 5.10 mantle 20 feet up, above a #2 peenut. I pulled the move onto the ledge and my neck promptly cramped. ouch!!! Rest of the pitch was bitchen good fingerlocks with ok smears, secure but taxing and physical. Aerili had to hang to pull a cam in the same spot I did 4 years ago. It might just be a follower problem... you place it then traverse, so the rope is pulling on it making it tricky to finesse out. After that, moved the rope over to the Mainline for a tr run. The shared start is hard even on TR, ugh. Middle section not so bad and the thin hands to ring crux is nasty!! still, I got it on my third try, once I had the sequence figured. The crux is short, gearz good and the feet are better than I thought they would be so I think it will be a very manageable rp. Much more straightforward than Purple Haze. Hiked down, ran into Petch and Squirrel and had a beer, headed out. I'll be back up there on Wednesday looks like. Dude, yore really getting some miles in this year. I need to quit my jorb and tour around constantly climbing... would be grate! That cover climb looks pretty sweet. I'm at least a year out from climbing like that. I have been eyeing Hospital corner in the guide though. That thing looks doable for me... we'll see. I'd like to hop on some of those 8 and 9 face dike climbs too. Four weeks! Yeah, been climbing a bunch. Easier now that I've got some places to stay in South Lake. Hospital is a mega classic, the best .10a at the Leap. Plus, you can do it, rap back down, and do the crux pitch of West Wall (.8) right there which is also mega cool, more bang for your buck since you are already a pitch up. In addition to the famous .8 and .9 dike pitches on the East Wall, I know of a good dozen that are of similar quality that never get done. Sounds fantastic! Something I can hope to Redsight after a few days of getting used to the rock. I look forward to trying lots of less-traveled climbs... keep away from the crowds, eh?
Yes, the fabled crowds of the leap actually only exist on the following routes:
Haystack
East Crack
Bear's Reach
The Line
Traveler Buttress
Corrugation Corner
Surrealistic Pillar
And even those are only gnarly on the weekend. Midweek getting on them is no biggie.
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kachoong
Jul 10, 2011, 5:59 PM
Post #75955 of 105309
(3454 views)
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 15304
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caughtinside wrote: kachoong wrote: caughtinside wrote: kachoong wrote: caughtinside wrote: Back from the Leap. The terrierist is still azleep. He is totally worked. Thursday went out to Eagle Lake cliffs, the tahoe crack climbing spot. Got in a few good ones. We walked down to a newish crag below to do some stuff but it was totally drenched. There were two dry routes so we did them. written description was unclear, tried to warm up on a .9 but it turned out to be a heads up .10b. Way cool though. Between Two worlds. I think I used all my tiny stoppers. Went back to the main area and did a pretty sweet overhanging handcrack, Flight Simulator maybe was the name? I thought it was .10c but the guidebook fluff rating was .11a , so I got the softzight. Fireman Mike was there and had his rope up on the Spacewalk. He does a variation where you only climb the right side finger crack to start and avoid the flare. STandard way is .11c/d or so, and his variation he thinks is .12a? Steep cranker fingers, I can get up it on TR but there is one move I can't really free. Overhangs 5 degrees or so and there is a purple camalot section with sharp locks and no feet. Kaboom, this climb is on the cover of the Tahoe guide you got. Pretty rad. Mike just walks the thing. Yesterday went back to the leap with the Aerili. We were both a little tired but she was able to rp the billy route on the ledge, and then we chased shade down below to Magnum Force. I followed it 4 years ago and had to hang to get out a cam. Got it clean this time but shit it is hard for .10b. Feels a lot like tombstone, but longer. Has a dicey dicey start, way bouldery and you have to do a 5.10 mantle 20 feet up, above a #2 peenut. I pulled the move onto the ledge and my neck promptly cramped. ouch!!! Rest of the pitch was bitchen good fingerlocks with ok smears, secure but taxing and physical. Aerili had to hang to pull a cam in the same spot I did 4 years ago. It might just be a follower problem... you place it then traverse, so the rope is pulling on it making it tricky to finesse out. After that, moved the rope over to the Mainline for a tr run. The shared start is hard even on TR, ugh. Middle section not so bad and the thin hands to ring crux is nasty!! still, I got it on my third try, once I had the sequence figured. The crux is short, gearz good and the feet are better than I thought they would be so I think it will be a very manageable rp. Much more straightforward than Purple Haze. Hiked down, ran into Petch and Squirrel and had a beer, headed out. I'll be back up there on Wednesday looks like. Dude, yore really getting some miles in this year. I need to quit my jorb and tour around constantly climbing... would be grate! That cover climb looks pretty sweet. I'm at least a year out from climbing like that. I have been eyeing Hospital corner in the guide though. That thing looks doable for me... we'll see. I'd like to hop on some of those 8 and 9 face dike climbs too. Four weeks! Yeah, been climbing a bunch. Easier now that I've got some places to stay in South Lake. Hospital is a mega classic, the best .10a at the Leap. Plus, you can do it, rap back down, and do the crux pitch of West Wall (.8) right there which is also mega cool, more bang for your buck since you are already a pitch up. In addition to the famous .8 and .9 dike pitches on the East Wall, I know of a good dozen that are of similar quality that never get done. Sounds fantastic! Something I can hope to Redsight after a few days of getting used to the rock. I look forward to trying lots of less-traveled climbs... keep away from the crowds, eh? Yes, the fabled crowds of the leap actually only exist on the following routes: Haystack East Crack Bear's Reach The Line Traveler Buttress Corrugation Corner Surrealistic Pillar And even those are only gnarly on the weekend. Midweek getting on them is no biggie.
I'll just be very happy getting on new rock, a new crag and getting more climbing under my belt for the year. Goal will be 30 pitches.
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climbingtrash
Jul 10, 2011, 6:59 PM
Post #75956 of 105309
(3435 views)
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Registered: Jan 19, 2006
Posts: 5114
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kachoong wrote: caughtinside wrote: kachoong wrote: caughtinside wrote: kachoong wrote: caughtinside wrote: Back from the Leap. The terrierist is still azleep. He is totally worked. Thursday went out to Eagle Lake cliffs, the tahoe crack climbing spot. Got in a few good ones. We walked down to a newish crag below to do some stuff but it was totally drenched. There were two dry routes so we did them. written description was unclear, tried to warm up on a .9 but it turned out to be a heads up .10b. Way cool though. Between Two worlds. I think I used all my tiny stoppers. Went back to the main area and did a pretty sweet overhanging handcrack, Flight Simulator maybe was the name? I thought it was .10c but the guidebook fluff rating was .11a , so I got the softzight. Fireman Mike was there and had his rope up on the Spacewalk. He does a variation where you only climb the right side finger crack to start and avoid the flare. STandard way is .11c/d or so, and his variation he thinks is .12a? Steep cranker fingers, I can get up it on TR but there is one move I can't really free. Overhangs 5 degrees or so and there is a purple camalot section with sharp locks and no feet. Kaboom, this climb is on the cover of the Tahoe guide you got. Pretty rad. Mike just walks the thing. Yesterday went back to the leap with the Aerili. We were both a little tired but she was able to rp the billy route on the ledge, and then we chased shade down below to Magnum Force. I followed it 4 years ago and had to hang to get out a cam. Got it clean this time but shit it is hard for .10b. Feels a lot like tombstone, but longer. Has a dicey dicey start, way bouldery and you have to do a 5.10 mantle 20 feet up, above a #2 peenut. I pulled the move onto the ledge and my neck promptly cramped. ouch!!! Rest of the pitch was bitchen good fingerlocks with ok smears, secure but taxing and physical. Aerili had to hang to pull a cam in the same spot I did 4 years ago. It might just be a follower problem... you place it then traverse, so the rope is pulling on it making it tricky to finesse out. After that, moved the rope over to the Mainline for a tr run. The shared start is hard even on TR, ugh. Middle section not so bad and the thin hands to ring crux is nasty!! still, I got it on my third try, once I had the sequence figured. The crux is short, gearz good and the feet are better than I thought they would be so I think it will be a very manageable rp. Much more straightforward than Purple Haze. Hiked down, ran into Petch and Squirrel and had a beer, headed out. I'll be back up there on Wednesday looks like. Dude, yore really getting some miles in this year. I need to quit my jorb and tour around constantly climbing... would be grate! That cover climb looks pretty sweet. I'm at least a year out from climbing like that. I have been eyeing Hospital corner in the guide though. That thing looks doable for me... we'll see. I'd like to hop on some of those 8 and 9 face dike climbs too. Four weeks! Yeah, been climbing a bunch. Easier now that I've got some places to stay in South Lake. Hospital is a mega classic, the best .10a at the Leap. Plus, you can do it, rap back down, and do the crux pitch of West Wall (.8) right there which is also mega cool, more bang for your buck since you are already a pitch up. In addition to the famous .8 and .9 dike pitches on the East Wall, I know of a good dozen that are of similar quality that never get done. Sounds fantastic! Something I can hope to Redsight after a few days of getting used to the rock. I look forward to trying lots of less-traveled climbs... keep away from the crowds, eh? Yes, the fabled crowds of the leap actually only exist on the following routes: Haystack East Crack Bear's Reach The Line Traveler Buttress Corrugation Corner Surrealistic Pillar And even those are only gnarly on the weekend. Midweek getting on them is no biggie. I'll just be very happy getting on new rock, a new crag and getting more climbing under my belt for the year. Goal will be 30 pitches.
30 pitches in a weekend? You know the approach isn't counted as a pitch.
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kachoong
Jul 10, 2011, 7:04 PM
Post #75957 of 105309
(3434 views)
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 15304
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climbingtrash wrote: kachoong wrote: caughtinside wrote: kachoong wrote: caughtinside wrote: kachoong wrote: caughtinside wrote: Back from the Leap. The terrierist is still azleep. He is totally worked. Thursday went out to Eagle Lake cliffs, the tahoe crack climbing spot. Got in a few good ones. We walked down to a newish crag below to do some stuff but it was totally drenched. There were two dry routes so we did them. written description was unclear, tried to warm up on a .9 but it turned out to be a heads up .10b. Way cool though. Between Two worlds. I think I used all my tiny stoppers. Went back to the main area and did a pretty sweet overhanging handcrack, Flight Simulator maybe was the name? I thought it was .10c but the guidebook fluff rating was .11a , so I got the softzight. Fireman Mike was there and had his rope up on the Spacewalk. He does a variation where you only climb the right side finger crack to start and avoid the flare. STandard way is .11c/d or so, and his variation he thinks is .12a? Steep cranker fingers, I can get up it on TR but there is one move I can't really free. Overhangs 5 degrees or so and there is a purple camalot section with sharp locks and no feet. Kaboom, this climb is on the cover of the Tahoe guide you got. Pretty rad. Mike just walks the thing. Yesterday went back to the leap with the Aerili. We were both a little tired but she was able to rp the billy route on the ledge, and then we chased shade down below to Magnum Force. I followed it 4 years ago and had to hang to get out a cam. Got it clean this time but shit it is hard for .10b. Feels a lot like tombstone, but longer. Has a dicey dicey start, way bouldery and you have to do a 5.10 mantle 20 feet up, above a #2 peenut. I pulled the move onto the ledge and my neck promptly cramped. ouch!!! Rest of the pitch was bitchen good fingerlocks with ok smears, secure but taxing and physical. Aerili had to hang to pull a cam in the same spot I did 4 years ago. It might just be a follower problem... you place it then traverse, so the rope is pulling on it making it tricky to finesse out. After that, moved the rope over to the Mainline for a tr run. The shared start is hard even on TR, ugh. Middle section not so bad and the thin hands to ring crux is nasty!! still, I got it on my third try, once I had the sequence figured. The crux is short, gearz good and the feet are better than I thought they would be so I think it will be a very manageable rp. Much more straightforward than Purple Haze. Hiked down, ran into Petch and Squirrel and had a beer, headed out. I'll be back up there on Wednesday looks like. Dude, yore really getting some miles in this year. I need to quit my jorb and tour around constantly climbing... would be grate! That cover climb looks pretty sweet. I'm at least a year out from climbing like that. I have been eyeing Hospital corner in the guide though. That thing looks doable for me... we'll see. I'd like to hop on some of those 8 and 9 face dike climbs too. Four weeks! Yeah, been climbing a bunch. Easier now that I've got some places to stay in South Lake. Hospital is a mega classic, the best .10a at the Leap. Plus, you can do it, rap back down, and do the crux pitch of West Wall (.8) right there which is also mega cool, more bang for your buck since you are already a pitch up. In addition to the famous .8 and .9 dike pitches on the East Wall, I know of a good dozen that are of similar quality that never get done. Sounds fantastic! Something I can hope to Redsight after a few days of getting used to the rock. I look forward to trying lots of less-traveled climbs... keep away from the crowds, eh? Yes, the fabled crowds of the leap actually only exist on the following routes: Haystack East Crack Bear's Reach The Line Traveler Buttress Corrugation Corner Surrealistic Pillar And even those are only gnarly on the weekend. Midweek getting on them is no biggie. I'll just be very happy getting on new rock, a new crag and getting more climbing under my belt for the year. Goal will be 30 pitches.30 pitches in a weekend? You know the approach isn't counted as a pitch.
Four full days and two partial days.
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caughtinside
Jul 10, 2011, 7:05 PM
Post #75958 of 105309
(3430 views)
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
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kachoong wrote: caughtinside wrote: kachoong wrote: caughtinside wrote: kachoong wrote: caughtinside wrote: Back from the Leap. The terrierist is still azleep. He is totally worked. Thursday went out to Eagle Lake cliffs, the tahoe crack climbing spot. Got in a few good ones. We walked down to a newish crag below to do some stuff but it was totally drenched. There were two dry routes so we did them. written description was unclear, tried to warm up on a .9 but it turned out to be a heads up .10b. Way cool though. Between Two worlds. I think I used all my tiny stoppers. Went back to the main area and did a pretty sweet overhanging handcrack, Flight Simulator maybe was the name? I thought it was .10c but the guidebook fluff rating was .11a , so I got the softzight. Fireman Mike was there and had his rope up on the Spacewalk. He does a variation where you only climb the right side finger crack to start and avoid the flare. STandard way is .11c/d or so, and his variation he thinks is .12a? Steep cranker fingers, I can get up it on TR but there is one move I can't really free. Overhangs 5 degrees or so and there is a purple camalot section with sharp locks and no feet. Kaboom, this climb is on the cover of the Tahoe guide you got. Pretty rad. Mike just walks the thing. Yesterday went back to the leap with the Aerili. We were both a little tired but she was able to rp the billy route on the ledge, and then we chased shade down below to Magnum Force. I followed it 4 years ago and had to hang to get out a cam. Got it clean this time but shit it is hard for .10b. Feels a lot like tombstone, but longer. Has a dicey dicey start, way bouldery and you have to do a 5.10 mantle 20 feet up, above a #2 peenut. I pulled the move onto the ledge and my neck promptly cramped. ouch!!! Rest of the pitch was bitchen good fingerlocks with ok smears, secure but taxing and physical. Aerili had to hang to pull a cam in the same spot I did 4 years ago. It might just be a follower problem... you place it then traverse, so the rope is pulling on it making it tricky to finesse out. After that, moved the rope over to the Mainline for a tr run. The shared start is hard even on TR, ugh. Middle section not so bad and the thin hands to ring crux is nasty!! still, I got it on my third try, once I had the sequence figured. The crux is short, gearz good and the feet are better than I thought they would be so I think it will be a very manageable rp. Much more straightforward than Purple Haze. Hiked down, ran into Petch and Squirrel and had a beer, headed out. I'll be back up there on Wednesday looks like. Dude, yore really getting some miles in this year. I need to quit my jorb and tour around constantly climbing... would be grate! That cover climb looks pretty sweet. I'm at least a year out from climbing like that. I have been eyeing Hospital corner in the guide though. That thing looks doable for me... we'll see. I'd like to hop on some of those 8 and 9 face dike climbs too. Four weeks! Yeah, been climbing a bunch. Easier now that I've got some places to stay in South Lake. Hospital is a mega classic, the best .10a at the Leap. Plus, you can do it, rap back down, and do the crux pitch of West Wall (.8) right there which is also mega cool, more bang for your buck since you are already a pitch up. In addition to the famous .8 and .9 dike pitches on the East Wall, I know of a good dozen that are of similar quality that never get done. Sounds fantastic! Something I can hope to Redsight after a few days of getting used to the rock. I look forward to trying lots of less-traveled climbs... keep away from the crowds, eh? Yes, the fabled crowds of the leap actually only exist on the following routes: Haystack East Crack Bear's Reach The Line Traveler Buttress Corrugation Corner Surrealistic Pillar And even those are only gnarly on the weekend. Midweek getting on them is no biggie. I'll just be very happy getting on new rock, a new crag and getting more climbing under my belt for the year. Goal will be 30 pitches.
6 pitches a day is very manageable. That's two east wall routes or some easy cragging.
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dr_feelgood
Jul 10, 2011, 8:00 PM
Post #75959 of 105309
(3422 views)
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
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kachoong wrote: Holy crap! More carshes in the TDF today... one very spectacular one with a team car swiping out a couple, with one guys flying head over 20ft into a barb wire fence.
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dr_feelgood
Jul 10, 2011, 8:02 PM
Post #75960 of 105309
(3422 views)
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
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cleaning up before pineapple girl gets here. Its amazing how quickly a place can get trashed if you just don't care.
Now, to get all this glitter out of the carpets.
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caughtinside
Jul 10, 2011, 8:53 PM
Post #75961 of 105309
(3417 views)
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
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dr_feelgood wrote: kachoong wrote: Holy crap! More carshes in the TDF today... one very spectacular one with a team car swiping out a couple, with one guys flying head over 20ft into a barb wire fence. NASCAR for nerds.
I'm going to suggest this is not an apt comparison because it suggests that perfectly normal people like NASCAR.
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dr_feelgood
Jul 10, 2011, 10:17 PM
Post #75962 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
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caughtinside wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: kachoong wrote: Holy crap! More carshes in the TDF today... one very spectacular one with a team car swiping out a couple, with one guys flying head over 20ft into a barb wire fence. NASCAR for nerds. I'm going to suggest this is not an apt comparison because it suggests that perfectly normal people like NASCAR.
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snoopy138
Jul 10, 2011, 11:20 PM
Post #75963 of 105309
(3392 views)
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
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went to holcomb valley yesterday for a nice group splinter fakshun meetup. poured out somebody else's crappy beer for AB (4 whom hel iz lngr).
zent teh Incinerator despite blutarski's attempts to pull me off on the dyno move; blutarski did not zend. we both got our asses handed to us on teh rode krew at teh end of the day.
there is some possibility he's zent teh incinerator today, though, which would certainly be unfortunate.
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jakedatc
Jul 11, 2011, 12:03 AM
Post #75965 of 105309
(3382 views)
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Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
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kachoong wrote: Holy crap! More carshes in the TDF today... one very spectacular one with a team car swiping out a couple, with one guys flying head over 20ft into a barb wire fence.
Was not a team car. It was a TV car from France TV. They were ordered multiple times to let team cars through and to pull over and they didn't. Fucking idiots.
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dr_feelgood
Jul 11, 2011, 12:20 AM
Post #75966 of 105309
(3375 views)
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
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partner today brought some BLL for post climbing beerz. Aside from tasting like mountain dew, it wasn't terrible. It certainly isn't the beast or a pibber....
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caughtinside
Jul 11, 2011, 1:20 AM
Post #75967 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
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dr_feelgood wrote: partner today brought some BLL for post climbing beerz. Aside from tasting like mountain dew, it wasn't terrible. It certainly isn't the beast or a pibber....
fuck yeah!!
*high fives the doc*
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snoopy138
Jul 11, 2011, 1:26 AM
Post #75968 of 105309
(3360 views)
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
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dr_feelgood wrote: partner today brought some BLL for post climbing beerz. Aside from tasting like mountain dew, it wasn't terrible. It certainly isn't the beast or a pibber....
find a gnu partner
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wanderlustmd
Jul 11, 2011, 1:40 AM
Post #75969 of 105309
(3355 views)
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Registered: Oct 24, 2006
Posts: 8150
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Saw Chossy in marmot form today up at Olmstead. Those little guys are everywhere.
How's Smith this time of year? Thinking of stopping in on my way to Leavenworth.
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macherry
Jul 11, 2011, 2:24 AM
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jakedatc wrote: kachoong wrote: Holy crap! More carshes in the TDF today... one very spectacular one with a team car swiping out a couple, with one guys flying head over 20ft into a barb wire fence. Was not a team car. It was a TV car from France TV. They were ordered multiple times to let team cars through and to pull over and they didn't. Fucking idiots.
yeah, i can't believe that. the driver never slowed and pulled over more than he needed.. shameful, shitty ass driving.
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climbingtrash
Jul 11, 2011, 2:36 AM
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Registered: Jan 19, 2006
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kachoong wrote: climbingtrash wrote: kachoong wrote: caughtinside wrote: kachoong wrote: caughtinside wrote: kachoong wrote: caughtinside wrote: Back from the Leap. The terrierist is still azleep. He is totally worked. Thursday went out to Eagle Lake cliffs, the tahoe crack climbing spot. Got in a few good ones. We walked down to a newish crag below to do some stuff but it was totally drenched. There were two dry routes so we did them. written description was unclear, tried to warm up on a .9 but it turned out to be a heads up .10b. Way cool though. Between Two worlds. I think I used all my tiny stoppers. Went back to the main area and did a pretty sweet overhanging handcrack, Flight Simulator maybe was the name? I thought it was .10c but the guidebook fluff rating was .11a , so I got the softzight. Fireman Mike was there and had his rope up on the Spacewalk. He does a variation where you only climb the right side finger crack to start and avoid the flare. STandard way is .11c/d or so, and his variation he thinks is .12a? Steep cranker fingers, I can get up it on TR but there is one move I can't really free. Overhangs 5 degrees or so and there is a purple camalot section with sharp locks and no feet. Kaboom, this climb is on the cover of the Tahoe guide you got. Pretty rad. Mike just walks the thing. Yesterday went back to the leap with the Aerili. We were both a little tired but she was able to rp the billy route on the ledge, and then we chased shade down below to Magnum Force. I followed it 4 years ago and had to hang to get out a cam. Got it clean this time but shit it is hard for .10b. Feels a lot like tombstone, but longer. Has a dicey dicey start, way bouldery and you have to do a 5.10 mantle 20 feet up, above a #2 peenut. I pulled the move onto the ledge and my neck promptly cramped. ouch!!! Rest of the pitch was bitchen good fingerlocks with ok smears, secure but taxing and physical. Aerili had to hang to pull a cam in the same spot I did 4 years ago. It might just be a follower problem... you place it then traverse, so the rope is pulling on it making it tricky to finesse out. After that, moved the rope over to the Mainline for a tr run. The shared start is hard even on TR, ugh. Middle section not so bad and the thin hands to ring crux is nasty!! still, I got it on my third try, once I had the sequence figured. The crux is short, gearz good and the feet are better than I thought they would be so I think it will be a very manageable rp. Much more straightforward than Purple Haze. Hiked down, ran into Petch and Squirrel and had a beer, headed out. I'll be back up there on Wednesday looks like. Dude, yore really getting some miles in this year. I need to quit my jorb and tour around constantly climbing... would be grate! That cover climb looks pretty sweet. I'm at least a year out from climbing like that. I have been eyeing Hospital corner in the guide though. That thing looks doable for me... we'll see. I'd like to hop on some of those 8 and 9 face dike climbs too. Four weeks! Yeah, been climbing a bunch. Easier now that I've got some places to stay in South Lake. Hospital is a mega classic, the best .10a at the Leap. Plus, you can do it, rap back down, and do the crux pitch of West Wall (.8) right there which is also mega cool, more bang for your buck since you are already a pitch up. In addition to the famous .8 and .9 dike pitches on the East Wall, I know of a good dozen that are of similar quality that never get done. Sounds fantastic! Something I can hope to Redsight after a few days of getting used to the rock. I look forward to trying lots of less-traveled climbs... keep away from the crowds, eh? Yes, the fabled crowds of the leap actually only exist on the following routes: Haystack East Crack Bear's Reach The Line Traveler Buttress Corrugation Corner Surrealistic Pillar And even those are only gnarly on the weekend. Midweek getting on them is no biggie. I'll just be very happy getting on new rock, a new crag and getting more climbing under my belt for the year. Goal will be 30 pitches.30 pitches in a weekend? You know the approach isn't counted as a pitch. Four full days and two partial days.
Ah..
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climbingtrash
Jul 11, 2011, 2:36 AM
Post #75972 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 19, 2006
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dr_feelgood wrote: cleaning up before pineapple girl gets here. Its amazing how quickly a place can get trashed if you just don't care. Now, to get all this glitter out of the carpets.
Glittering yore balls carpets makes you haz a pretty?
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climbingtrash
Jul 11, 2011, 2:36 AM
Post #75973 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 19, 2006
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I feel pretty when I PTFTW?
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climbingtrash
Jul 11, 2011, 2:36 AM
Post #75974 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 19, 2006
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wo0!
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climbingtrash
Jul 11, 2011, 2:37 AM
Post #75975 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 19, 2006
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shiny glittery protecshun
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