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pseudolith
Nov 23, 2009, 3:35 PM
Post #76 of 84
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I've seen this mentioned several times before - references to a "first crux" and "second crux," and sometimes a "third crux" contained in a single route. If the crux is the single most critical or difficult move or section, then how can there be multiple cruxes (or cruces?)
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dudemanbu
Nov 23, 2009, 3:50 PM
Post #77 of 84
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curt wrote: As I see it, here is the biggest problem with ratings correlations--especially between climbing routes and bouldering. I know and climb with people who have no problem doing sustained, rope length climbs of continuous 5.9 or 5.10 moves. Some of these people, however, can not execute a single V5 (5.12) move on a boulder. The converse also can be found. I know plenty of boulderers who can fire off a couple of V5 moves, but who would be swinging on the rope after 50 feet of pumpy, sustained 5.10 climbing on a route. That is why the comparisons are a rough guide and (at best) will be pretty close for the aggregate of all climbers, even though a correlation may be pretty far off for an individual person, or when applied to an individual climb. Regards, Curt ps. I also would like to add that I think the chart farther up this thread by "Offwidthclimber" is pretty accurate. It seems to be about the same as the conversion chart that I supplied John Sherman and appears in his book "Stone Crusade". Wow, no sarcasm or derision out of both JT512 and curt on a noob post? It must be the holidays.
(This post was edited by dudemanbu on Nov 23, 2009, 3:50 PM)
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qtm
Nov 23, 2009, 4:29 PM
Post #78 of 84
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pseudolith wrote: I've seen this mentioned several times before - references to a "first crux" and "second crux," and sometimes a "third crux" contained in a single route. If the crux is the single most critical or difficult move or section, then how can there be multiple cruxes (or cruces?) (From dictionary.com) Main Entry: crux Function: noun Inflected Form(s): plural crux·es also cru·ces 1 : a puzzling or difficult problem : an unsolved question 2 : an essential point requiring resolution or resolving an outcome <the crux of the problem> 3 : a main or central feature (as of an argument) Defs 1 & 2 do not preclude multiple cruxes. #3 could, but doesn't have to. If you define a crux as "the single most critical..." then no, a route cannot have more than one crux. But there is no reason to limit it to such.
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NelsonDay
May 25, 2012, 9:34 PM
Post #79 of 84
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Check out this link published by Rock and Ice Magazine: http://www.rockandice.com/articles/how-to-climb/article/77-climbing-ratings-understanding-climbing-grades Rating comparisons at the bottom. Cheers, Nelson
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sycamore
May 25, 2012, 11:47 PM
Post #80 of 84
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A ten year thread that has been resurrected, what, 4 times now? Amazing!
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curt
May 26, 2012, 4:13 AM
Post #81 of 84
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NelsonDay wrote: Check out this link published by Rock and Ice Magazine: http://www.rockandice.com/articles/how-to-climb/article/77-climbing-ratings-understanding-climbing-grades Rating comparisons at the bottom. Cheers, Nelson That chart is clearly off for the lower V-grades. V1 is, by definition, 5.10+ and it goes up from there. V2 is around 5.11 a/b, V3 is around 5.11 c/d and V4 is around 5.12a. Curt
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theextremist04
May 27, 2012, 6:27 PM
Post #82 of 84
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curt wrote: NelsonDay wrote: Check out this link published by Rock and Ice Magazine: http://www.rockandice.com/articles/how-to-climb/article/77-climbing-ratings-understanding-climbing-grades Rating comparisons at the bottom. Cheers, Nelson That chart is clearly off for the lower V-grades. V1 is, by definition, 5.10+ and it goes up from there. V2 is around 5.11 a/b, V3 is around 5.11 c/d and V4 is around 5.12a. Curt Also, there have been a handful of confirmed 5.15b/9b routes as well.
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sungam
May 27, 2012, 7:29 PM
Post #83 of 84
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sycamore wrote: A ten year thread that has been resurrected, what, 4 times now? Amazing! Yep, not often you see a thread from 2001 kicking around.
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hobgoblin11
Jun 4, 2012, 9:21 PM
Post #84 of 84
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[quote "maurice"]cool, that means i can make 5.11 climbs, thats a big improvement for me..[/quote] There is a HUGE difference between bouldering a V3 in the gym (which is REALLY a V1 at best outdoors) and may involve 5 or 6 moves VS. climbing a 100' crag rated at 5.11 after getting my ass handed to me at Culp Valley and Santee I stopped taking gym ratings seriously.
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