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koravas
Feb 23, 2004, 7:20 AM
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For me it was an (probably unhealthy) obsession with climbing. I climbed virtually every day for months. At that point it never even occured to me that people trained to climb. What held me back was tendonittis and injury. I had to learn to control my obsession. Body type probably helped me too.
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roughster
Feb 23, 2004, 7:42 AM
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roughster moved this thread from General to Technique & Training.
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curt
Feb 23, 2004, 7:48 AM
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In reply to: Uh, I don't know about that, you'd have to ask them...actually I spent hardly any time in Josh, a few months at most, never really got into it...and let's not stoop to name calling here, just having a little fun with you, you did set yourself up pretty good there...have you done the B-Y by the way?
I did it in 1984. When did you do it? :wink:
Curt
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 23, 2004, 3:49 PM
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I started this thread months ago and was kind of happy to see it return, but now I just want it to die. If you guys need your ego petted, then go get a dog. Climbing isn't about egos. I am kind of sorry that I ever brought up grades. Being an expert has nothing to do with them. I was asking for advice to further my climbing abilities. It seems that everyone has there own idea about what makes an advanced climber from what grade they pull to where they climb. This is not what climbing is about.
Josh
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ipsofacto
Feb 23, 2004, 4:26 PM
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23456789
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deafears
Feb 24, 2004, 6:26 PM
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I'd say that 5.12a/b is getting to be pretty common, but climbers who consistantly do .12c/d are much fewer and farther between. .13a/b is still a very high standard, with the caveat that doing one or two routes at this grade does not put you in this category. ... .13c/d is very, very hard, and above that is truly an elite realm. .14a is damnably hard, even though it's now well off the world standard.
As an analogy to .14a, a 4:00 mile is also nowhere near the international high end, yet very, very few runners can touch that mark.
I notice that many of the posters here insinuate they climb to 5.12+, but only one or two can say they consistently redpoint higher than that.
Lastily, I have to add that leading a full pitch of old-school 5.8 or 5.9, especially a few pitches off the deck and protected by gear, is a serious athletic accomplishment, one that is not really very different in its demands from a 5.12 jug-haul.
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bvb
Feb 27, 2004, 7:03 PM
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In reply to: just from experience, though, the crack climbs at Josh feel easier than their similarly graded counterparts in the Valley
hmmm....i've climbed most of the stadard issue 5.12 cracks in both the valley and josh, and if i had to generalize, i'd have to day josh grades are stiffer. although there are exceptions. for example, vector in josh is a givaway 11c compared to butterballs in the valley. on the otherhand, fish crack at 12b is easier that simple simon at 11c. any baby apes? i'm sticking with bachar's original grade -- that sucker is 5.13.
but taken as a whole, i'd say josh has a slight edge on the sandbag ratings. just my opinion, though. both areas have sandsbags abd givaways at all grade levels.
biggist sandbag i've ever done? stubs, just left of tips. they give it 12b, but that sucker felt like the hardest thing i did in the valley. it was one of the few crack i never got wired. everytime i went up there to do it, it was hit or miss.
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gumbobob
Mar 1, 2004, 5:20 PM
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i say jump on (toprope) of something way hard--like 12d or 13a--and really learn the route...your body will begin to adjust and your unique solutions to foot beta and insane crimpers will leave with enough experience that 12a's will be a flash (pun!) of course, make sure that the climb you are trying is one that is conceivable--a short 13a you cant do one move on is awful, a long 13a that trains both power and endurance is perfect. (at least this idea worked for me)
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alpinerock
Mar 3, 2004, 3:22 AM
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I think what pushed me into the 12's would definatly be bouldering. Yes, i trained a little bit, but really it was bouldering that gave me that edge i needed.
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