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lambone
May 9, 2005, 2:41 AM
Post #76 of 83
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when in doubt...sew it up!
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stymingersfink
Mar 5, 2006, 10:04 PM
Post #77 of 83
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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
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Re: haul situations mentioned in the beginning of the thread: dock the pig.
When I set the anchor for hauling, I will pull 20' of haul line through my hauler to facilitate an easier start to the hauling process (i like to body-haul). Second ties a butterfly into the haul line and clips it to the locker above the swivel. (I utilize lockers above and below the swivel, though my docking cord is attached to the bottom hole of the swivel itself.) I'll pull all of the slack from the line, tie a b.fly backup close to the hauler and clip it directly to the anchor. 2nd undocks the pig and lowers with remaining haul line. Free end of haul line dangles (hopefully not behind a flake!) The bag is suspended below the swivel by the locker clipped/locked to ONE of the haul straps. The other strap is cinched tight to the locker with a 3' length of 5mm cord which has been tied to the second strap, up through the locker, back down through the strap, back up through the locker creating a pully of sorts to cinch the strap up to the biner with. It is then tied off with a mule-knot. The baskets on all lockers are oriented toward the ground, such that a screw lock would literally have to screw-up to become unlocked. The only locker which is ever opened is the one above the swivel, which is done twice per pitch. Once to free the haul line and attach a sling backup to the anchor, and once to remove that backup and re-attach the haul line. If it makes you feel better, use an auto-locker!
In reply to: i'm always paranoid that i'm going to thread my grigri backwards when soloing .. so before i set-off on lead (and while still backed up by a long sling to tbe belay) .. i'll test the grigri by letting it take my weight .. (as if i'd just fallen) .. you can then be sure its on right .. .. i've been told that most grigri failures (when soloing) have been due to mis-threaded setups.. but i have no data to back that up.
The one time I have done this myself was roped-soloing a 5.8 slab... I reached the second bolt before noticing what I had done. I clipped directly into the bolt and fixed that mistake post-haste!
In reply to: In reply to: For camping-style walls: Bring a spare headlamp - with the small, economical options, almost no reason not to. Even a cheesy pocket or keychain flashlite could be a boon. Absolutely! I spent my first big wall bivy in slings b/c of a headlamp that lept from from my partners helmet clips. I got beaned in the head with rope on the LT raps, sending my headlamp batteries earthward. Glad that I had a spare that time. The key chain LED never leaves the little pocket in my chackbag. Bonus SToD: Take a long bit of cord or a double length runner and leash your headlamp to yourself...especially if it's your only one.
My headlamp has a little keeper string which I use to secure my headlamp to my helmet. It can still fall off my helmet clips, but will only dangle around my shoulders. Plus, if i need it tagged to me, it's now got a handy little clip-in point.
Now, here's my STotD:
When getting off-route and needing to rap back to your proper line, you will need to un-tie your backup system to pull the rope through your rap-point. After pulling the rope, RETIE THE BACKUP SYSTEM BEFORE YOU GO ANYWHERE. (There's nothing quite like the feeling of a rope end whipping through your gri-gri :wink: luckily I was standing on two good alien placements)
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far_east_climber
Mar 5, 2006, 11:05 PM
Post #78 of 83
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Not sure if it is entirely relevant. This tip was reinforced to me very seriously within caving, although I usually did it whilst climbing, I now make sure to ALWAYS - what I was taught is whilst descending, in between anchors/stations/rebelays/knot passes, always do a quick test of your device before you undo your daisy chain/cows tails on changing to a new line/anchor during descent. It's helped me a number of times. I've noticed a large number of climbers just simply hopping onto their descent device without a quick test...
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iamthewallress
Mar 6, 2006, 11:48 PM
Post #79 of 83
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
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stymi...To clarify what happened when I lost my headlamp on the LT...The rope wacked me in the head sending the batteries earthward and cracking the plastic. Leashing the lamp AND bringing a spare are both prudent.
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lambone
Mar 7, 2006, 8:06 AM
Post #80 of 83
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Registered: May 1, 2003
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great thread to resurect!
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omegaprime
Mar 7, 2006, 9:16 AM
Post #81 of 83
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In reply to: ..... Also, what is with the proliferation of these toy LED lamps (Petzl Tikka et al)? They really suck for wayfinding, and I've seen them in action (read: failing to illuminate sufficiently) more than once. Petzl Zoom used to be the standard, but trends went toward smaller lamps and more fledgling LED technology. I'm glad to see some more stout offerings by Petzl (Myo, etc.) and BD (Vectra IQ, etc.) available. ..... Cheers...
Wrong tools for the job at hand, that's all. The LED headlamps are there for two main reasons, brightness and battery life. The side effect is that they don't have the range required for route finding. Great for campsite, suck at route finding.
The lamps you need are the ones you've just mentioned (Myo, Vectra..). It was designed with route finding in mind, but most of them provide that function in short bursts in order to save battery life.
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iamthewallress
Mar 7, 2006, 8:19 PM
Post #82 of 83
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In reply to: In reply to: ..... Also, what is with the proliferation of these toy LED lamps (Petzl Tikka et al)? They really suck for wayfinding, and I've seen them in action (read: failing to illuminate sufficiently) more than once. Petzl Zoom used to be the standard, but trends went toward smaller lamps and more fledgling LED technology. I'm glad to see some more stout offerings by Petzl (Myo, etc.) and BD (Vectra IQ, etc.) available. ..... Cheers... Wrong tools for the job at hand, that's all. The LED headlamps are there for two main reasons, brightness and battery life. The side effect is that they don't have the range required for route finding. Great for campsite, suck at route finding.
pmyche might agree w/ you and I both if I add that proud sends can come from only being able to see the next move. :wink:
Although I agree w/ omegaprime about the bonus of having non-led lamps, an LED is often adequate for me. Even if I bring a non-LED main lamp, I'm going to bring LED as my back up...'cause that's what I have, it's totally adequate for bivies, and if it needs to be good enough for climbing, it will just have to be so.
I did get kind of hosed in the dark on a pitch that was really supposed to be 2 pitches (either the topo was ambiguous or I was dense). If I could have seen more than 5 feet in front of myself, I might have understood what I was in for sooner.
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stymingersfink
Mar 12, 2006, 1:18 AM
Post #83 of 83
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the theory:
In reply to: pmyche might agree w/ you and I both if I add that proud sends can come from only being able to see the next move. :wink:
the proof:
In reply to: If I could have seen more than 5 feet in front of myself, I might have understood what I was in for sooner.
*nods head* sooo true. ...But it may not have gotten done any other way :wink:
I'm with you on the two-headlamp thing, and extra PROPERLY sized batteries. Nice HID/LED combo on lead + LED camp-lamp.
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