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alpnclmbr1
Jun 30, 2003, 6:01 PM
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Anyway as far as what I think is the best way to learn self rescue.
#1 climb with someone that knows how and is willing to share his knowledge.
#2 Read a book and use as many other sources as you can find.
#3 Practice, practice, practice
#4 take a class, it couldn’t hurt, but it is far from being the only way or the best way for that matter.(take a first aid course first)
Pico and the Pirate seem like safe and sensible climbers who have made a lot of good recommendations,
People that think you can buy knowledge scare me. Self-rescue is all about problem solving skills that are not best addressed by a by the numbers course. IMHO.
Be safe
d.
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puma
Jun 30, 2003, 8:50 PM
Post #102 of 109
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In reply to: Hey this knot does not seem to reverse easily like the normal munter will. Have you tried taking and giving slack on this knot? I think I will try rappelling with it next chance I get.
Right, it will be tougher to reverse because it is the SUPERMUNTER BABY! The only times I've used it was for a lower, so there wasn't any taking...there was only one way happening, down. I think if you try to rappel with it (standard dbl rope rap) you'll never make it down, unless maybe if you're riding a 60+lb pig. However it may be good for a simul-rap w/ thinner ropes, where you may need more friction.
Yes, it is in the AMGA manual but that isn't a book that everybody has so I thought it'd be good to share. Have fun.
Lg
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the_pirate
Jun 30, 2003, 8:52 PM
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I'm sure he'll be fine. He has his 60+ lb ego riding along with him.
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alpnclmbr1
Jul 1, 2003, 5:20 AM
Post #104 of 109
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Puma
can the public purchase a copy of the AMGA guides manual?
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dirtineye
Jul 1, 2003, 12:38 PM
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Yes you can. You can get it cheaper by becoming an associate member of the AMGA.
Here is a FREE online knot book that is pretty nice. Well, almost free. YOur tax dollars at work.
http://www.adtdl.army.mil/cgi-bin/atdl.dll/fm/3-97.61/toc.htm
And here is an online picture of your double or super munter. There was a better one somewhere else, but I can't remember where.
http://www.squamishrockguides.com/Handout%20PDF's/Rescue.pdf
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alpnclmbr1
Jul 3, 2003, 3:40 AM
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thanks curt,
ps, I removed my inaccurate statements about you in my previous posts.
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dirtineye
Jul 4, 2003, 3:04 AM
Post #107 of 109
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Thanks. The guy who wrote about the 60 pound ego was inaccurate too-- he underestimated badly LOL!
But if you REALLY wanted to be nice, you'd get me a date with a red hot 5.13 trad climbing rich beautiful sex starved young girl who would want to have my children. Who would be happy to carry my 90+pounds of gear around AND cook fantastic meals.
I have to come to Utah and CO sometime in the future, maybe I can get to your area then and we can climb something. Have the girl ready LOL.
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slcliffdiver
Jul 5, 2003, 4:47 PM
Post #108 of 109
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Sorry about the late response. This isn't the knot I use with 2 anchors it has the same problem when used this way (extension when the pro that pulls goes to the weighted line). I use this knot sometimes with 3 anchor points, modified for the same reason.
In reply to: This can go on adn on LOL, but htereis anohter bowline you could use, and although it is harder to adjust, yo ucan adjust it, and each loop is independent iin case one cuts or a piece pulls. tie a double bowline on a bight (jsut a reagular bowline using the bight as a single rope in every respect) and then biner off the loop that would be the tail on a single bowline. I have no data for this idea, but I can't see any reason NOT to use that third loop to clip to another piece of pro. Anyone tried this thing? Is that that the variation you use, slcliffdiver? |
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dirtineye
Jul 6, 2003, 2:55 AM
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Um, well egg on my face and all that, I um, looked in my AMGA manual, Gosh darn it I hate getting old, I KNOW I used to know this, but um, well, the three loop bowline we have been talking about is recommended for three point anchors. Heh. I wish I could remember the stuff I used to know.
The mind is the second thing to go in old age.
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