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highminded
Oct 4, 2004, 7:47 AM
Post #101 of 140
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1) I'm paranoid about losing my belay device on a multi-pitch (partner has a knack for yanking the rope just as I'm taking him off belay). So I use a 12-inch loop of thin cord and small toy 'biner to "leash" my belay device to my harness leg loop. Half-hitch the loop of cord to whatever part of the belay device receives your locking 'biner and clip the toy 'biner through the cord and to your leg loop. Keep it "leashed" while you're putting your partner on and off belay.
2) My partner and I use radios to communicate, but it's akward to haul them in and out of our pockets every time we want to talk. We use athletic tape to tape them to our gear sling, high up on the shoulder, just over our collar bones. All you have to do is press the button, turn your head and talk.
3) You can tape a small first aid kit inside the crown of your helmet, in the space between the hard, outer shell and the suspension webbing (make sure not to put anything sharp in there).
4) Trango Alpine Equalizer slings are awesome for setting up belay anchors quickly.
5) Make a visor for your climbing helmet to help keep the sun out of your eyes when climbing. Get a cheap, neoprene visor (the spongy kind that are kind of stretchy and fasten in back with a snap). Next, get some adhesive-backed velcro from a fabric, craft or hardware store (you can also find it in the hardware sections of drug stores and supermarkets) -- look for the ones that have a strip of adhesive velcro "spots" (little circles of velcro). Take the paper off the adhesive on one side of the velcro spots and stick them, at intervals, to the inside of the neoprene visor. Next, peel the paper off the adhesive on the other side of the velcro and stick the visor to the brim your helmet, on the outside. Presto -- you've made yourself a removable visor. If it's too big, trim it with a pair of scissors. Because it's soft and pliable, you can store the visor inside your helmet, under the suspension straps.
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bustinmins
Mar 25, 2005, 4:20 AM
Post #102 of 140
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This thread hasn't had a post since October so I thought I'd revive it a bit.
What is in your bag of tricks? I know many of you have shared a great many tricks but I'm still looking for more!
Hope to hear yours very soon,
JD
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mesomorf
Mar 25, 2005, 2:18 PM
Post #103 of 140
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In reply to: 3) You can tape a small first aid kit inside the crown of your helmet, in the space between the hard, outer shell and the suspension webbing (make sure not to put anything sharp in there). ... you can store the visor inside your helmet, under the suspension straps.
Best to find another cubby for your first aid kit.
The airspace between a helmet's suspension and its shell is a design feature, not a storage area. The proper functioning of the helmet - keeping your head and sharp, hard things apart - is negated by filling the space with stuff.
RTFM.
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jeremy11
Mar 25, 2005, 3:15 PM
Post #104 of 140
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dont pad an edge at the top of a rappel with your shirt - and expect that it will come down to you when you pull the rope - if there is a tree (or other obstacle) in the fall line! why do I say this? cause I did just that and did not think that the shirt would get stuck in the tree branches when I pulled the rope (it was coming off the Pinnacle at the New River Gorge - so I would have had to climb the whole thing again rope solo lead in the dark. I did end up getting my shirt back by getting my rope around a main crotch in the tree and shaking it like crazy, along with throwing a few sticks at it, and another two climbers on the pinnacle helped by whipping it with their rope.
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paulraphael
Mar 25, 2005, 6:49 PM
Post #105 of 140
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A couple of tricks mentioned are potentially dangerous ... they're the subject of old debates on rc.com, so you can probably find what's been written by doing a search.
The tricks in question (that i noticed) are using a daisy chain as a load limiting runner (the webbing often shreds when the bartacks blow) and tying your own webolette out of cord (not strong enough to hold the hardest fall an anchor might have to hold).
Otherwise, great stuff. The only trick I ever invented involves using crampons to open a beer bottle (while still wearing them). would be easier if i did yoga. and definitely smarter to do when tied in.
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golsen
Mar 25, 2005, 7:29 PM
Post #106 of 140
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Instead of using a web belt for your chalkbag, use an appropriate length of perlon (5 mm or so). In a fix you can tie a prusik if required. Used this once on the mace during a lightning storm when the rapp ropes got stuck.
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jeffvoigt
Apr 14, 2005, 7:39 PM
Post #107 of 140
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For multi pitch routes that require double rope rappels i have found it nice to carry 200' of 7mm perlon to use as a rappel line in combination with my climbing rope. There are several benefits, 1. Its much cheaper than buying a second rope (about $75 for 200' of 7mm compared to $100 or more for another rope.) 2. its much lighter than taking a full single rope 3. You can avoid the confusion of double and twin rope systems on long climbs 4. you have something to cut up if you need to build a rap station 5. if you allow the 7mm cord to be pulled through the rap anchors it will slide through much more easily than a larger diameter single rope. There are a couple things to keep in mind though. 1. Make sure that there is no more than 2.5 - 3mm difference between your rap line and your climbing rope otherwise on rappels the rap line will want to move through your device more quickly than the single rope, causing them to become uneven at the ends. (ex: i have a 9.7mm single and i use a 7mm rap line. There is 2.7mm difference between the two ropes and they seem to work well together.) If you have a fatter rope like a 10.5mm then the weight and cost savings start to go down. 2. because perlon does not streach nearly as much as a climbing rope you will end up with some uneveness in the ends.
Im curious as to who else uses this technique and if you would have anything to add to the topic.
PS one other trick thing that i have seen is a chalk bag belt that is full strength rated and can be use as a runner in emergency situations. Misty Mountain makes it. its pretty cheap i think around $5 or so. Its a nice piece of mind when you find yourself off route and running out of slings. Buy one for yourself and one for your climbing partner!
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photon
Apr 14, 2005, 7:58 PM
Post #108 of 140
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my bag of tricks holds the following:
demons
pharmaceuticals
bag balm
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tallnik
Apr 16, 2005, 7:47 PM
Post #109 of 140
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Smokables:
If you're only carring one or two smokes:
- then the superglue bottle someone mentioned.
However, for more.
- Tape cassete case
For Cigars --> for you "I'll carry the damn sink up with me if it makes my life better" folks
- Video cassete case. Takes up a small amount of space when you think about how much you'll enjoy that summit Romeo y Julietta.
Part of me sometimes wishes I hadn't quit smoking. But then on almost every approach I'm so happy I did.
Cheers,
Nik
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tallnik
Apr 16, 2005, 8:05 PM
Post #110 of 140
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For Ice climbers and alpinists...
If you're melting water to drink, and need something to keep you warm, think of herbal teas. They taste great, and weigh nothing. A couple in a ziploc takes up no space at all.
I know some alpinists don't boil their water, but it's a good way to heat the core and get warm again.
Here's another that Jebel_andi taught me. Take a straw with you on multipitch routes, if it's not too cold, there will be some water running down the ice. As you're belaying, take your straw and stick it to the ice, and heh presto! instant rehydration.
Cheers,
Nik
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slackwareuser
Apr 29, 2005, 2:52 PM
Post #111 of 140
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For fishing out the right size wired nut from under the other nuts on the racking biner (biner gate opens out and down on gearsling or harness loop):
1. grab the nut you want to place and push its loop through the loops of the other nuts which are on top (ie, closer to the biner gate)
2. give the nut a twist so its loop lies accross the biner gate
3. pull. The wire loop pulls the biner gate open and the nut comes off the biner (and you won't drop the other nuts, because they are under the gate)
4. pull the nut's loop back through the loops of the other nuts and there you have it. 8^)
Hope this description makes sense :)
This is my first post, hope some will like it :wink:
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sanguineclimber
Apr 29, 2005, 3:02 PM
Post #112 of 140
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levitation
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graniteboy
Apr 29, 2005, 5:01 PM
Post #113 of 140
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After 30 some odd years of climbing, I've come to realize this little trick: Leave the rope behind. You'll cover many more vertical miles, get much stronger, gain more endurance, more experience, and still get back in time for margarita hour.
Of course, it means that you can't climb "at your level", but, because you won't be doing the "popular routes" it also means you won't be spending much if any time waiting in line. AND you get to score alot of free booty that 5.9 gumbys leave behind.
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yardonthis
May 16, 2005, 11:35 PM
Post #114 of 140
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Here's two:
Get yee to Mervyn's cheap clothing for your parasites. Beside the checkout counter in the shoe department they sell "Curly Shoelaces for Slow Children and Triatheletes". They cost about two bucks. Just the right length for your nut tool leash. I've used the same one for about three years now. Extends to about 36", retracts to about 6".
Double raps with a zipline: Tie the zipline to your lead line with the EDK (Euro Death Knot aka double overhand knot). If you're rapping from rings, cold shuts or chins make sure to keep the knot a good distance below so that it doesn't get sucked into the anchor and jam.
Here's the helpful part. Keep the knot on the leadline side. It is a total pain in the ass to pull the zipline. Pull the lead line through the next rap station if you have multiple raps. When you have finished pulling the ropes the knot will be on the wrong (zipline) side. No problem! Pull up a loop of both lines and tie off the bight wherever. It takes just a second to untie the knot, rethread the zipline back through the anchors, and retie the knot again on the leadline side. Repeat as necessary.
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waltereo
May 17, 2005, 12:30 AM
Post #115 of 140
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Registered: Jun 11, 2003
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[quote="slackwareuser"]For fishing out the right size wired nut from under the other nuts on the racking biner (biner gate opens out and down on gearsling or harness loop):
1. grab the nut you want to place and push its loop through the loops of the other nuts which are on top (ie, closer to the biner gate)
2. give the nut a twist so its loop lies accross the biner gate
3. pull. The wire loop pulls the biner gate open and the nut comes off the biner (and you won't drop the other nuts, because they are under the gate)
4. pull the nut's loop back through the loops of the other nuts and there you have it. 8^)
Hope this description makes sense :)
This is my first post, hope some will like it :wink:
It works very well as far as the nut you want to pull out is the 3rd ou 4th nut. After that, the cable loop on my nut is too small to pass 3 or 4 nuts .
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graniteboy
May 17, 2005, 3:19 PM
Post #116 of 140
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favorite items from my bag of tricks:
1) Leave the rope and all that technology behind.
2) Rise before the sun, and get 50 pitches in by 4pm. You'll get a much better workout than if you dangled away at a sport route that's 5 letter grades over your head all day.
.
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verticalturtle
May 17, 2005, 4:29 PM
Post #117 of 140
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Registered: Oct 3, 2002
Posts: 53
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Here's a couple I haven't seen in this thread.
For those paranoid about losing your rap device on long routes - when taking the rope out of the device leave the keeper wire clipped into the locking biner and only unclip the rope. That way you can just pull the rope out w/o worrying about dropping the device. (I always see folks take the device out, remove the ropes, then put the device back on the biner. Seems like a wasted step and a chance to drop something.)
**********
I know the valu of hydration, but have low motivation to slurp down cold water on ice climbs. Besides hydrating before the climb I boil water, add cool aid, and put this in my wb parka. By the end of the day the stuff is usualy still warm (or at least it's not ice) and it has some flava plus bonus calories. Always good in Alberta in Winter. BTW I keep one wb out of the pack and the other in the pack. The out outside gets used first, the other stays insulated longer.
*************
Since someone above asked...I prefer to ALWAYS take two half ropes on alpine or ice routes of any consequence (that is, excluding volcano slogs). You have all the advantages of a zip line set up, but 1) you don't have to worry about variable streach, and 2) you have two leadable lines. The latter issue could be important if for example you have a chance of rockfall or something else chopping a rope (like a dehydrated partner with an ice tool). It also helps for routes that wander (since you clip variably with 1/2 ropes). A third benefit is that because skinny ropes are typically more elastic the impact force on placements is typicaly less. A nice feature sometimes. The funds you put out for the ropes are worth it.
I should point out, for those less experienced, that the above referrs to half ropes, not twin ropes. Twins are thinner and meant to be clipped together. They are usually 8.0mm or less. Half ropes are meant to be clipped independantly and range from 8.1mm-9.0mm. I like 8.5 x 60m as a great compromise.
my $.02
VT
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blueeyedclimber
May 17, 2005, 4:42 PM
Post #118 of 140
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1) When building your anchor, put your first piece in and clip in. Then add a biner to that piece, so that when your put the cordellette in, the rope isn't in your way.
2) use a prussik cord for your nut tool leash
3)I just learned this trick from a guide. When multipitch rappelling, sometimes it is hard to remember which rope to pull.....Say you have a green rope and a blue rope (for explanation purposes)
1. put green rope through rings and tie blue rope to it with your knot of choice.
2. tie stopper knot at the end of green rope, but not blue one. (the bulky knot joining two ropes will not fit through rings, so 2 stopper knots aren't needed)
3. toss ends
4. rappel to next station and anchor in
5. untie stopper knot in green rope
6. feed blue rope through rings and tie a knot (this is the one you pull)
7. keep flip-flopping all the way down. You always pull the rope without the knot. (Remember "Not the Knot")
Josh
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jimfix
Nov 10, 2005, 8:10 PM
Post #119 of 140
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I figure this is worth adding from another thread
In reply to: I've used daisies and knotted slings, and would prolly buy a PAS if I hadn't learned this trick from some climbers in Rio: using a 9~10' length of tech cord, tie a triple-wrap Prusik knot such that a "slider" is created. Then, tie off the ends using a triple fisherman's to finish the "prusik slider on a loop". Girth hitch one end to your harness, and clip a locker into the adjustable end. You now have a bomber anchor cord that can be easily adjusted anywhere from 12" to 24" in length, instantly! I was nervous about using stiff 5.5mm tech cord at first, and tried 6mm perlon for added bite but the Prusik cinches up nicely on either type of cord. Photo links: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ramblinhammerjack/detail?.dir=/b3d4&.dnm=be41.jpg http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ramblinhammerjack/detail?.dir=/b3d4&.dnm=734e.jpg http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ramblinhammerjack/detail?.dir=/b3d4&.dnm=f2e5.jpg My main fear is abrasion of the prusik, so I move the knot to different locations on the loop every few months. You can fashion a half dozen of these for the same price as a spectra daisy, which may explain why the Brasilians like it...the import taxes can raise the price of a daisy to the equivalent of $40! The daisy requires more fiddling to set and can be rather long and dangly when climbing, whereas I keep the slider at minimum length during the climb and whip it out to the perfect length at the anchor. Between caving, climbing and rigging ropes courses I've learned a lot of tricks that are equally applicable to all genres of ropework...I'm really surprised the safety police have yet to point out that I still need a backup, quoted me the innate % strength lost from the prusik knot, the hazards of bending tech cord or called me a dumbass noob with ony 3 posts to his name. -Jack |
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jimfix
Nov 10, 2005, 8:44 PM
Post #120 of 140
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This is cute too
In reply to: Well, since this only took me about 5 minutes to come up with, I sure this has been done before. Anyway, this is how I keep my big cams collapsed:
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azrockclimber
Nov 10, 2005, 9:13 PM
Post #121 of 140
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In reply to: For multi pitch routes that require double rope rappels i have found it nice to carry 200' of 7mm perlon to use as a rappel line in combination with my climbing rope. There are several benefits, 1. Its much cheaper than buying a second rope (about $75 for 200' of 7mm compared to $100 or more for another rope.) 2. its much lighter than taking a full single rope 3. You can avoid the confusion of double and twin rope systems on long climbs 4. you have something to cut up if you need to build a rap station 5. if you allow the 7mm cord to be pulled through the rap anchors it will slide through much more easily than a larger diameter single rope. There are a couple things to keep in mind though. 1. Make sure that there is no more than 2.5 - 3mm difference between your rap line and your climbing rope otherwise on rappels the rap line will want to move through your device more quickly than the single rope, causing them to become uneven at the ends. (ex: i have a 9.7mm single and i use a 7mm rap line. There is 2.7mm difference between the two ropes and they seem to work well together.) If you have a fatter rope like a 10.5mm then the weight and cost savings start to go down. 2. because perlon does not streach nearly as much as a climbing rope you will end up with some uneveness in the ends. Im curious as to who else uses this technique and if you would have anything to add to the topic. PS one other trick thing that i have seen is a chalk bag belt that is full strength rated and can be use as a runner in emergency situations. Misty Mountain makes it. its pretty cheap i think around $5 or so. Its a nice piece of mind when you find yourself off route and running out of slings. Buy one for yourself and one for your climbing partner!
That diameter difference seems like a bit much for me to be comfortable with. I would think that a 2mm difference would be the most I would go with. Any other opinions or reasons why up to 3 is fine or is not fine?
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meshuga3
Nov 11, 2005, 5:40 PM
Post #122 of 140
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I'm getting a lot out of the emergency gear additions to the list. Here's what I carry-
Racked on an oval (which, in addition to several other ovals on my rack, contributes to the carabiner break):
-Four prusik cords (for escaping the belay, then 2 each for 3:1 hauling and ascending the rope... which is superfluous because I also usually have a gri-gri with me)
- Tibloc (yet another bit of redundancy)
I've run through a number of rescue scenarios in my gym, and this equipment, plus an assorted quickdraw or locker, has always been enough to effect at least moderately complicated rescues.
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woodcraft
Nov 13, 2005, 4:24 AM
Post #123 of 140
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Posts: 20
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I use gatorade bottles for water (free & sturdy- recycle when funky), with a loop of 3 mm cord clove hitched to the neck. Mostly 1 qt size, but a 12 oz. bottle clipped to the harness is great after a parching lead, and the 2nd has the pack.
Windbreaker always has a light fleece cap in the pocket.
Bring the headlamp!
Slings over the shoulder each with a biner. Since most of the time the piece you just placed (cam) has a biner on it, extending it with a sling is a matter of flip over your head and clip- much faster than dicking with those stupid trad draws. Also quicker to clean. Long slings are doubled with biner on both loops
Don't use draws on gear where rope drag is not an issue- everything placed has to be cleaned.
The knife (small, with hole) is on 3mm cord on a toy biner. When it is clipped short, this makes a loop that holds tape, rap rings, tiblock, etc..
When arriving at top of pitch, place a piece (more if hanging), clip in daisy, and call off belay. Build rest of anchor while the 2nd cleans anchor below. If swinging leads, reverse process when partner calls off belay from above- dismantle anchor down to what the daisy is clipped to and wait for belay on. The actual anchor is made from the rope or cordalette, so the daisy remains personal backup. This has been described before but bears repeating because it is a big timesaver.
I recently got a trail/rap line- 7.6mm dynamic twin. Its been great so far. The stretch factor is similar to the lead rope, and the knot migrating down from the anchor has not been significant. It does tangle more than a fatter line, but thats the trade off. I figured that in a pinch, it would be better to lead on than a static line.
Rappel backup- small loop of 6mm clipped to leg loop w/ small locker makes autoblock below rappel device- 3 or 4 wraps. This makes it easy to stop to take photos, clean gear, and enjoy the view, not to mention stopping the plunge if hit by rockfall or other bad stuff.
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brutusofwyde
Nov 15, 2005, 11:00 PM
Post #124 of 140
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Leavittation.
Kick-throughs.
Knee pad and elbow pads.
Inversion.
Arm Bars.
Chicken Wings.
Knee locks.
Flab stacks.
But getting off the subject of OWs...
To quote myself,
Knowledge is one of the lightest, most valuable things you can take with you on a climb.
Need ascenders?
Klemheist. Bachman, not to mention the prussik.
A belay device?
Hip belay. Clipped hip belay. Munter.
A rappel device?
Dulfersitz. Carabiner wrap. Carabiner brake. Munter. Floating carabiner.
All the gadgets in the world are not worth a single point of knowledge. How to improvise, how to make do, how to do the optimum with what is available.
Some climbers were slowed to a halt at the last rappel of Royal Arches when their rope got stuck. They spent a very cold night, after YOSAR determined that they were in no immediate life-threatening danger.
They were not trapped by circumstance. They were trapped by their own lack of requisite skills, some of which I have listed above.
Can you belay without a device? rap without a device? ascend a rope using slings?
Time to start learning.
The life you save may be your own.
Brutus of Wyde
Old Climbers' Home
Oakland, California
Without knowledge, you'd best stay home.
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brutusofwyde
Nov 15, 2005, 11:01 PM
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deleted due to double post.
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