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jt512


Dec 1, 2009, 9:40 PM
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Re: [synrock] How to Survive a Free Solo [In reply to]
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synrock wrote:
happiegrrrl wrote:
I don't believe I have ever seen a boulderer wearing socks with his climbing shoes....

And those red stockings aren't socks. I'm not quite sure what they actually are....but socks, they aren't! Unless he's swiped his sister's knee socks.

There are THREE (count em) 3 - good reasons all boulders should wear socks (specifically white tube socks).

#!. Performance. You have better friction and feel. Moist skin against shoe leather is not as good a bond as you get when you stick a sock between the two. I know this sounds wrong but I've spent many many years climbing at a micro-edging area - and a light cotton sock simply works better than without. But don't trust me, try it yourself.

#2. Safety. I solo a lot and climb lots of highball boulders. I really can't help myself sometimes I just start climbing up crap. And often I will get to a marginal foot hold and wonder - "dude is your shoe clean?"
Well with a quick whip of the toe on the sock of the other foot I know if I'm good to go (this is why the socks should be white).

#3. Social reasons. The shoes of most boulderers I know smell really really bad. If every climber were to wear a fresh socks the climbing shoe funk would be a thing of the past.

#4. A sock can be used as a beanie in a pinch.

Jay


jakedatc


Dec 1, 2009, 9:42 PM
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thats what pants are for... or skin works pretty well too. if you don't walk around in your shoes then you shouldn't have mud on them.

i don't buy your performance idea one bit. snug fitting shoes work better than shoes that can accommodate socks. and it adds another layer between you and the rock decreasing sensitivity.

shoes smell with and without socks.. you're outside and unless you stick your nose in someones shoes i've never had an issue.

Cotton kills!!! bahaha


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Dec 1, 2009, 9:42 PM
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Re: [jt512] How to Survive a Free Solo [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
synrock wrote:
happiegrrrl wrote:
I don't believe I have ever seen a boulderer wearing socks with his climbing shoes....

And those red stockings aren't socks. I'm not quite sure what they actually are....but socks, they aren't! Unless he's swiped his sister's knee socks.

There are THREE (count em) 3 - good reasons all boulders should wear socks (specifically white tube socks).

#!. Performance. You have better friction and feel. Moist skin against shoe leather is not as good a bond as you get when you stick a sock between the two. I know this sounds wrong but I've spent many many years climbing at a micro-edging area - and a light cotton sock simply works better than without. But don't trust me, try it yourself.

#2. Safety. I solo a lot and climb lots of highball boulders. I really can't help myself sometimes I just start climbing up crap. And often I will get to a marginal foot hold and wonder - "dude is your shoe clean?"
Well with a quick whip of the toe on the sock of the other foot I know if I'm good to go (this is why the socks should be white).

#3. Social reasons. The shoes of most boulderers I know smell really really bad. If every climber were to wear a fresh socks the climbing shoe funk would be a thing of the past.

#4. A sock can be used as a beanie in a pinch.

Jay

be careful with some socks, though.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...orum.cgi?post=938989


synrock


Dec 1, 2009, 10:33 PM
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jakedatc wrote:
thats what pants are for... or skin works pretty well too. if you don't walk around in your shoes then you shouldn't have mud on them.

i don't buy your performance idea one bit. snug fitting shoes work better than shoes that can accommodate socks. and it adds another layer between you and the rock decreasing sensitivity.

shoes smell with and without socks.. you're outside and unless you stick your nose in someones shoes i've never had an issue.

Cotton kills!!! bahaha

6 months of the year I'm wearing shorts when I climb. And unless you are a hairy beast you aint' gonna clean mud off a shoe with your leg.

You don't have to buy the sock performance idea and it is not something that you can resolve with a thought. You have to try it. If you can get a shoe on - you can get a shoe on with a thin cotton sock. And when a shoe is climbing best (near the end of it's rubber) adding a sock will make it fit better. I'm not talking a thick sock - I'm talking a plain white cotton well worn sock. Sensitivity is a matter of friction between feet and shoe. I know that it doesn't sound like it makes sense but adding a sock increases friction and hence 'feel."

And with regard to shoe smell you obviously haven't climbed with many hippies.

Resolving to end the anti-sock dogma plaguing climbers.


carabiner96


Dec 2, 2009, 12:13 AM
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synrock wrote:

6 months of the year I'm wearing shorts when I climb. And unless you are a hairy beast you aint' gonna clean mud off a shoe with your leg.

Idk, I wipe my shoes off on my calves, and (most of the time) I'm clean shaven. And I'm from a pretty rainy, wet spot.


csproul


Dec 2, 2009, 12:23 AM
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what you said:
carabiner96 wrote:
Idk, I wipe my shoes off on my calves, and (most of the time) I'm clean shaven. And I'm from a pretty rainy, wet spot.
What I heard:
In reply to:
I wipe...my...clean shaven...pretty...wet spot


carabiner96


Dec 2, 2009, 12:29 AM
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csproul wrote:
what you said:
carabiner96 wrote:
Idk, I wipe my shoes off on my calves, and (most of the time) I'm clean shaven. And I'm from a pretty rainy, wet spot.
What I heard:
In reply to:
I wipe...my...clean shaven...pretty...wet spot

Naturally.


jcrew


Dec 2, 2009, 1:59 AM
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carabiner96 wrote:
csproul wrote:
what you said:
carabiner96 wrote:
Idk, I wipe my shoes off on my calves, and (most of the time) I'm clean shaven. And I'm from a pretty rainy, wet spot.
What I heard:
In reply to:
I wipe...my...clean shaven...pretty...wet spot

Naturally.

took 9 pages to go from some yahoo (not) soloing to some loser trying to mack some chick on the net.


notapplicable


Dec 2, 2009, 2:48 AM
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king_rat wrote:
Sometimes the holier then thou, attitude of some of the posters on this board gets on my nerves. Yes the guy in the video did something stupid, no his climbing was not perfect, but who the hell are we to judge him. He made a decision, and he paid the price. I don’t know about you but I have certainly done stupid things as a younger man, and probably will do other stupid things in future. Luckily for me non of my stupidity has never been caught on video Looking at some of the posts, in this thread, I wonder whether some of you have ever been out of your nice cosy gym before.

Hmmmm, I just realized that you were replying to my very first post in this thread without reading all the way through. If you had bothered to read everything before commenting, you would have noticed that I made the exact same argument as yours at the bottom of page 6. The link is below. And FWIW, I've been in a gym twice in the last 2.5 years.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...post=2248016#2248016

I await your apology. Feel free to use a PM if you would rather not make it publicly.


kriso9tails


Dec 2, 2009, 3:12 AM
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notapplicable wrote:
I await your apology. Feel free to use a PM if you would rather not make it publicly.

I think he should apologize to all of us for that horrid gym line. It's trite and makes no sense whatsoever. Also, sometimes I get so sick of people on this board and their holier than gym rat attitude.


notapplicable


Dec 2, 2009, 3:27 AM
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kriso9tails wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
I await your apology. Feel free to use a PM if you would rather not make it publicly.

I think he should apologize to all of us for that horrid gym line. It's trite and makes no sense whatsoever. Also, sometimes I get so sick of people on this board and their holier than gym rat attitude.

I wont be holding my breath.


billcoe_


Dec 2, 2009, 4:18 AM
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notapplicable wrote:
billcoe_ wrote:
That he fell on a 5.8 despite having soloed both the North Face of the Eiger, all of Tetons in a single freesolo continuous push earlier and freesolo of 5.13 should scare the hell out of us mortals.

That is pretty damn spooky.

I wrote that wrong. Sorry. I believe Dwight was conked by a rock. Lots of rockfall in the Tetons, and dude would NOT have fallen off a 5.8.

Like Bachar, no one really knows what occurred. However, the locals donated his gear to Search and Rescue and they did a guidebook primarily with Dwight's notes.


stagg54


Dec 2, 2009, 4:34 AM
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kriso9tails wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
Rong.


Too tired/lazy to research now, but in skiing, climbing, etc. there have been examples of privately and publicly owned areas being closed to certain kinds of access. Off the top of my head is Bear Creek in Telluride, which closes for a few seasons after someone dies.

I'm not claiming to know the conditions at Breakneck or if your buddy had got hurt it would close, but I'm just saying...you never know.

I've never heard of an actual case of a crag closing due to a specific injury or fatality. I'm not saying in any certain terms that it's never happened, but it seems to be exceptional at best, at least where any notable crags are concerned.

To the point, I sort of wonder if there's really anything behind the righteous indignation of those that get all bent out of shape about soloists threatening access. When I was still a teenager, I pulled that line before, but eventually I realized that I, personally, couldn't back it up with anything.

to clarify: I'm not really that concerned with soloists ruining access. I'm concerned with people doing stupid shit (soloing something they had no business soloing) at a crag that is on private land and then posting it on youtube for the world to see. I guarantee if the landowner (who is not a climber at all) sees that, he will close access. In today's litiginous society, I sure as hell would.

If the OP really cares about continued climbing Breakneck, he would be well advised to take down that video, or at the very least remove any references to the location to minimize the chances of the landowner accidentally stumbling upon it.


subantz


Dec 2, 2009, 5:51 AM
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Shut your face. I thought is was funny. So funny that I couldent quit laughing as I wrote it....
Need more cams J need more cams!


CrazyPetie


Dec 2, 2009, 6:48 AM
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stagg54 wrote:
kriso9tails wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
Rong.


Too tired/lazy to research now, but in skiing, climbing, etc. there have been examples of privately and publicly owned areas being closed to certain kinds of access. Off the top of my head is Bear Creek in Telluride, which closes for a few seasons after someone dies.

I'm not claiming to know the conditions at Breakneck or if your buddy had got hurt it would close, but I'm just saying...you never know.

I've never heard of an actual case of a crag closing due to a specific injury or fatality. I'm not saying in any certain terms that it's never happened, but it seems to be exceptional at best, at least where any notable crags are concerned.

To the point, I sort of wonder if there's really anything behind the righteous indignation of those that get all bent out of shape about soloists threatening access. When I was still a teenager, I pulled that line before, but eventually I realized that I, personally, couldn't back it up with anything.

to clarify: I'm not really that concerned with soloists ruining access. I'm concerned with people doing stupid shit (soloing something they had no business soloing) at a crag that is on private land and then posting it on youtube for the world to see. I guarantee if the landowner (who is not a climber at all) sees that, he will close access. In today's litiginous society, I sure as hell would.

If the OP really cares about continued climbing Breakneck, he would be well advised to take down that video, or at the very least remove any references to the location to minimize the chances of the landowner accidentally stumbling upon it.

As much as i think you're an asshole, I still changed the beginning of the video to exclude the name of the crag. I would hate to be responsible for it getting closed, even though that probably wouldn't have happened anyways.

And,.. ya know,.. dont tell me what to do and all that, blah blah...


subantz


Dec 2, 2009, 7:03 AM
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I hate the cops>
Damn cops try to snatch my crops
These pigs want to blow my house down
but I am undergroung to the next town
They come to raid my pad.
I am out like a POOOOOFFFFFFFFFFFFF!!!!!


Partner camhead


Dec 2, 2009, 2:10 PM
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CrazyPetie wrote:
stagg54 wrote:
kriso9tails wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
Rong.


Too tired/lazy to research now, but in skiing, climbing, etc. there have been examples of privately and publicly owned areas being closed to certain kinds of access. Off the top of my head is Bear Creek in Telluride, which closes for a few seasons after someone dies.

I'm not claiming to know the conditions at Breakneck or if your buddy had got hurt it would close, but I'm just saying...you never know.

I've never heard of an actual case of a crag closing due to a specific injury or fatality. I'm not saying in any certain terms that it's never happened, but it seems to be exceptional at best, at least where any notable crags are concerned.

To the point, I sort of wonder if there's really anything behind the righteous indignation of those that get all bent out of shape about soloists threatening access. When I was still a teenager, I pulled that line before, but eventually I realized that I, personally, couldn't back it up with anything.

to clarify: I'm not really that concerned with soloists ruining access. I'm concerned with people doing stupid shit (soloing something they had no business soloing) at a crag that is on private land and then posting it on youtube for the world to see. I guarantee if the landowner (who is not a climber at all) sees that, he will close access. In today's litiginous society, I sure as hell would.

If the OP really cares about continued climbing Breakneck, he would be well advised to take down that video, or at the very least remove any references to the location to minimize the chances of the landowner accidentally stumbling upon it.

As much as i think you're an asshole, I still changed the beginning of the video to exclude the name of the crag. I would hate to be responsible for it getting closed, even though that probably wouldn't have happened anyways.

And,.. ya know,.. dont tell me what to do and all that, blah blah...

heh. Way to do the right thing in the midst of beating your chest and maintaining your self-perceived radness.

Seriously.


sungam


Dec 2, 2009, 2:33 PM
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camhead wrote:
CrazyPetie wrote:
stagg54 wrote:
kriso9tails wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
Rong.


Too tired/lazy to research now, but in skiing, climbing, etc. there have been examples of privately and publicly owned areas being closed to certain kinds of access. Off the top of my head is Bear Creek in Telluride, which closes for a few seasons after someone dies.

I'm not claiming to know the conditions at Breakneck or if your buddy had got hurt it would close, but I'm just saying...you never know.

I've never heard of an actual case of a crag closing due to a specific injury or fatality. I'm not saying in any certain terms that it's never happened, but it seems to be exceptional at best, at least where any notable crags are concerned.

To the point, I sort of wonder if there's really anything behind the righteous indignation of those that get all bent out of shape about soloists threatening access. When I was still a teenager, I pulled that line before, but eventually I realized that I, personally, couldn't back it up with anything.

to clarify: I'm not really that concerned with soloists ruining access. I'm concerned with people doing stupid shit (soloing something they had no business soloing) at a crag that is on private land and then posting it on youtube for the world to see. I guarantee if the landowner (who is not a climber at all) sees that, he will close access. In today's litiginous society, I sure as hell would.

If the OP really cares about continued climbing Breakneck, he would be well advised to take down that video, or at the very least remove any references to the location to minimize the chances of the landowner accidentally stumbling upon it.

As much as i think you're an asshole, I still changed the beginning of the video to exclude the name of the crag. I would hate to be responsible for it getting closed, even though that probably wouldn't have happened anyways.

And,.. ya know,.. dont tell me what to do and all that, blah blah...

heh. Way to do the right thing in the midst of beating your chest and maintaining your self-perceived radness.

Seriously.
It's kind of upsetting when somebody actually learns on this site.
Made me double take.


dingus


Dec 2, 2009, 2:41 PM
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Thought I'd give the Taco crowd a crack at this vid too:

http://www.supertopo.com/.../That_free_solo_vibe

Now interestingly, a couple of very strong free soloists have posted to the thread as did one of the guys who introduced high end free climbing to Valley walls.

The Taco crowd tends to be older than rc.com (by a couple of decades I think haha) and far more experienced - you will note a very common theme to the responses.

I think the falling dude, uh, Mike is his name? I think he will be dealing with the psych issues of this fall for a very long time to come.

But it takes TIME for a young man to digest humble pie. Young intestines aren't ready to cope with such rich food it seems. I bet the kid is all right!

DMT


dingus


Dec 2, 2009, 2:43 PM
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On and CrazyPetie?

I took the opportunity to watch one of your bouldering vids too... your buddy slaps his feet around on v6s too... he uses them like CLUBS.

You boys should pay attention closer, to the footwork of the climbers in all those vids you watch. Very closely.

DMT


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Dec 2, 2009, 2:43 PM
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jt512 wrote:
CrazyPetie wrote:
dingus wrote:
jt512 wrote:
CrazyPetie wrote:
Deffinately not Mike at his best. haha But i had to put it out there, hows many good decking videos have you seen?

I suspect that the difference between Mike at his best and Mike at his worst is pretty small.

Jay

Does Mike at his best still slap his feet around on beginner climbs???

DMT

I know it seems hard to believe, but mike is actually a pretty good climber.

As numerous people have already said, the footwork he demonstrates in the video rules out the possibility that he is a good climber. You should really shut up already.

Jay

I don't think it rules it out entirely. Not to defend anything or anybody, but I think that sort of tap dancing on holds is as much a confidence problem as one of pure technique. It's possible he is a good sport/trad/TR climber, but a horrible freesoloist.


dingus


Dec 2, 2009, 2:45 PM
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j_ung wrote:
jt512 wrote:
CrazyPetie wrote:
dingus wrote:
jt512 wrote:
CrazyPetie wrote:
Deffinately not Mike at his best. haha But i had to put it out there, hows many good decking videos have you seen?

I suspect that the difference between Mike at his best and Mike at his worst is pretty small.

Jay

Does Mike at his best still slap his feet around on beginner climbs???

DMT

I know it seems hard to believe, but mike is actually a pretty good climber.

As numerous people have already said, the footwork he demonstrates in the video rules out the possibility that he is a good climber. You should really shut up already.

Jay

I don't think it rules it out entirely. Not to defend anything or anybody, but I think that sort of tap dancing on holds is as much a confidence problem as one of pure technique. It's possible he is a good sport/trad/TR climber, but a horrible freesoloist.

Yes its possible but highly improbable.

Anyway, watch one of crazypeties bouldering vids... the answers will be presented forthwith.

DMT


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Dec 2, 2009, 2:45 PM
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dingus wrote:
On and CrazyPetie?

I took the opportunity to watch one of your bouldering vids too... your buddy slaps his feet around on v6s too... he uses them like CLUBS.

You boys should pay attention closer, to the footwork of the climbers in all those vids you watch. Very closely.

DMT

Then again, I could be wrong. It's been known to happen.


Partner camhead


Dec 2, 2009, 2:58 PM
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Dingus,

I looked through the ST thread (fortunately it had not reached 200 posts yet, like most threads on there, hehe).

Anyway, this was perhaps the most insightful comment on there, and it's worth reposting here:

In reply to:
Actually kind of creepy, this sillymouthed noob. A delusional quality about him; he is not quite all there, spouting and yakking. His climbing doesn’t have a center to it; he just sort of schleps upward without focus and any kind of deep control. Good starter body for climbing--- tall and thin---but his brain is off doing something else. If the seductive but unused ropes weren’t there he would have been killed--- they prevented him from going upside down. Doubtful too whether he learned anything from this, given the way he is wired. But one has to hope he did.

Some have argued that championing the many ropeless solo feats over the years in climbing would spawn a horde of ignorant wannabees, lemminglike swarming up hard routes and slipping and dying. Laughable fear of course but, hey, here is one right before our eyes! Pretty much our only example and he lives. Usually soloing makes one climb like nobody's business, super-sharp and at one's best. This guy was on autopilot flopping upwards like a ragdoll and didn't even know what happened.


dingus


Dec 2, 2009, 3:18 PM
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Re: [camhead] How to Survive a Free Solo [In reply to]
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cammy

I both agree and disagree with that posted critique. I guess my only disagreement actually is the one about 'lessons learned.'

CrazyPete maybe you could ask your buddy to read these threads and then do a follow up video interview where you confront him with the technique issues and the 'that boy will NEVER learn' judgements?

I would be very interested to know if your buddy HAS learned anything...

It would be really cool if you played this video to him and did the interview while you watch it....

DMT


(This post was edited by dingus on Dec 2, 2009, 3:22 PM)

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