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krga20
Jun 22, 2005, 2:51 AM
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What is the most recent route/problem you've done. Trad, bouldering, sport or mountaineering adventures... Please include where it was and all the interesting invents. Its been over two weeks since I've touched rock...
adios!
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roughster
Jun 22, 2005, 3:04 AM
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In reply to: What is the most recent route/problem you've done. Trad, bouldering, sport or mountaineering adventures... Please include where it was and all the interesting invents. Its been over two weeks since I've touched rock... adios!
Last time out did 2 new route FAs:
Internet SuperHero 5.10c 9 bolts
Ginormous 5.10a 6 bolts
Both of them at the every growing crag of DTSA.
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bandycoot
Jun 22, 2005, 3:26 AM
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Insomnia: 5.11b/c up at Suicide. The guide says something along the lines of "Best crack climb in Idyllwild." I flashed it two weeks ago, and wanted to lead it again for a workout. I liked it better the 2nd time since the first time I found it very awkward and it took me a long time to figure out.
Sidenote: The weekend before I was cut in front of in line by a Hungarian on another route and told my friend about it. He wanted to do that same route and said something like "I just hope we don't get cut in front of, damn Bulgarians," (he got the country wrong). Right at that moment a guy by himself comes up the deserted trail and hears. He stops and gives my friend a cold stare and says, "What's wrong with Bulgarians?" in a European accent. My friend turns and says, "Nothing, why?" The newcomer replies, "I'm from Bulgaria...." :lol:
Later my friends and I were laughing our asses off. The timing was perfect! None of us had ever even met someone from Bulgaria before and here, out of nowhere, at the perfectly wrong time was a Bulgarian! We ended up climbing with him and he lead Insomnia as well making it look like a stroll in the park!
Hristo, if you see this, send me an e-mail and let's climb together again sometime! I'd love to do The Vampire again!
Josh
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krga20
Jun 22, 2005, 3:32 AM
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That's strange, the last route I was on was the 'Vampire'. Funny...
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strokies
Jun 22, 2005, 3:35 AM
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Registered: Jun 4, 2005
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the birth canal 5.9 at Bozoo Rocks in West Virginia. TR, I'm a beginner but I'd like to sport soon. Threw down rope, ready to go, then threw my mat, of course it hooks a ledge about 40 ft up. frustrating, but it was fun rapping to it.
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timd
Jun 22, 2005, 3:36 AM
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I'll start off by saying I lead 5.8 rock. I've started working on a 5.10B in Rifle Mountain Park called Good Moanin. Noe it's a real sight to see. Polished at the start. As I previously stated I lead 5.8 so it's rather comical to see me flailing around up there. But, what the hell it's all good
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skinner
Jun 22, 2005, 3:49 AM
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
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After almost a month and a half of rain, finally the sun appears on Fathers Day. We picked a cliff that I have been wanting to do an FA on for years. It has an awesome overhanging block with a single crack running through, and over it that will only accept knife-blades.
http://www.netspy.net/...h/fx/wet-n-slimy.JPG
Unfortunately I will be going back to complete it when it dries up. The run-off was so bad that there was a constant stream of water running over the route (visible in photo).
But we still managed to get out climbing and made it to a point just below the overhang, placed one bolt, waded across 2 creeks (that had never been there before) to get back to the car . My son and I drove home with the heater blowing full blast trying to dry off and warm up.
What a perfect Fathers Day :D
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crazyscuba
Jun 22, 2005, 3:56 AM
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we did cathedral in tuolomne last sunday the 19th. we drove to the gate at 6:30 and since the meadows still arent open to cars we biked to the trail head. the hike in was full of snow and was a blast. the climbing actually wasnt that good. 40-50 mph winds ruined it for us. it was still fun but just a bit scarier. the best part was not seeing a single person all day long! the hike back went quick but the 7 mile uphill bike out ate me alive. my partner is a road biker so he was fine but i was on a pos mountain bike and it took me a solid 2-3 hours to huff it out. one of the few days i'll probably remember till the day i die. it was really eerie not to see anyone down there the whole day! enjoyed it but i cant wait till the road opens.
steve
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crackmd
Jun 22, 2005, 4:03 AM
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Spent the weekend a few weeks back in Zion. Got on Shune's Buttress which I have been pining over for many years. Was fortunate to hit it on a strong day and got the onsight despite being rained on on 2 separate occasions while on the route. Despite the rain we pushed on through the 3rd pitch offwidth which was quite a miserable experience on wet rock. Luckily the rain stopped for the awesome crux pitch at the top. This pitch was 5.11 fingers and hands through a roof with nothing but air below you and all set in the grandeur of Zion. Simply unforgettable!
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davidji
Jun 22, 2005, 5:05 AM
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My last route was Candyland at Phantom Spires. For a short pitch (only requires a single rope rap), it was a pretty amazing climb.
On the lower part, you're slinging slightly overhung knobs for pro. Small cams and nuts fit up near the top. The topo called the lower part 5.10b, and the upper finger crack part 5.10c. The lower part felt harder to us.
It was my partner's lead, but he bailed after his second slung knob before making the crux, so I got to finish. I'm taller and I think I have longer arms, both of which probably helped.
My first real look at the climb was when setting up to rap from Candyass (a neighboring climb that felt easier although it was rated harder at 5.10d). From above CL looked pretty easy. From below it looked more serious: the huge knobs looked pretty spread out, and it was steeper than I had noticed from above.
If I do it again, I'll either practice my one-handed knob slinging & knotting skills (it's overhung: make those slings secure) or toprope. Really fun climb, but getting a well-protected redpoint would be quite an achievement.
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vegastradguy
Jun 22, 2005, 5:09 AM
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My last route of note was a FA out in Black Velvet with my partner Larry DeAngelo- it lies just to the right of Frogland and goes about 5.8ish.
It turned out to have one of the best finger cracks i've climbed in Red Rock on the 2nd pitch along with a really airy couple of moves up higher.
We thought it turned out to be almost as good as Frogland and just as long.
You can find it in the RoutesDB under Whiskey Peak.
Bourbon Street, 5.8
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areuinclimber
Jun 22, 2005, 5:43 AM
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Registered: May 29, 2004
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i dragged my brother up ejesta (5.8) this past saturday at reed's pinnacle in yosemite. he flipped at the exposed belay on pitch 2. i was dying with laughter. :lol: but the second pitch is an excellent crack. just sinker all the way to the top.
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march
Jun 22, 2005, 6:08 AM
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Registered: May 12, 2005
Posts: 72
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Fingertrip Traverse at Tahquitz, California last weekend.
An easy, but fun route I led. This was my first trip to Tahquitz - What a cool rock with some awesome scenery. Have to admit the approach was a pain in the a$$ though! Despite that, can't wait to get back up there again.
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ihuang
Jun 22, 2005, 6:30 AM
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Posts: 194
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Valhalla at Suicide. What an incredible route!
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climbinginchico
Jun 22, 2005, 7:41 AM
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When I get back after my next 2 days in the Valley, it will be Royal Arches and Snake Dike.
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pawilkes
Jun 22, 2005, 10:50 AM
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my last route of the weekend was my hardest send on gear, i onsighted Rock Wars (5.10a) at Long Wall in the Red River Gorge. i went into the final section, a diagnal crack with no feet, and realized that i had just placed the cam that i needed to protect that section of the route. i thought about proceding but my feet and one hand popped. i managed to hold on and in the pannic ii tried putting in a bigger cam but the placement was crap and when i clipped it it came out. i down climbed back to a ledge, swapped out my #5 Flex cam that i needed for the roof with a bomber hex and then went back and slammed that cam in the upper crack. popped an alien in up higher, almost fell again, and then managed to get to the anchors and jam a new bar in a flake crack while i desperately tried to clip the anchors. i thought i was going to die on that route. thats what i get for pushing my limits. oh yeah, the route was featured in the Trad issue of one of the big climbing mags as being one of the best Trad lines in the country and it is. super cool route.
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boulderror
Jun 22, 2005, 11:13 AM
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Registered: Nov 15, 2003
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a pumpy 5.13a sport route in freyr (belgium). some time ago thought because of my exams.2 more weeks to go without any climbing:(.
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jcshaggy
Jun 22, 2005, 11:34 AM
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Registered: Jun 4, 2004
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Been working Chamber of Secrets 5.12a at Chosspile, South Africa-not hardest route I've tried but I'm battling to link the sequence through a big roof.
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sevrdhed
Jun 22, 2005, 11:56 AM
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I went and did this .11b up Big Cottonwood Canyon that's hardly even a sport climb. It's three bolts placed like 5 feet apart, so it's really more like a V2/V3 boulder problem. We were going to climb something else there after we came down, but we got rained out.
Steve
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andy_reagan
Jun 22, 2005, 12:06 PM
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Registered: Jan 12, 2004
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Never could quite link the fingery crux of Pump Up the Volume, 5.12b, in Rumney. Fun moves just damn hard to string together!
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marcel
Jun 22, 2005, 2:05 PM
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Registered: Jul 30, 2002
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None of the routes I climb have names. :lol:
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jerseyclimber
Jun 22, 2005, 2:33 PM
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Registered: Aug 6, 2004
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Bunny...5.4...The Gunks.........ya....I'm a hardman.
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angry
Jun 22, 2005, 3:09 PM
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
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Last wednesday I did the Petit Grepon
Thursday I soloed Handjacker, Oslands Delight, Lower Progressive, and backed off Stinkzig at Vedauwoo.
Friday I climbed Womans Work, Soft Parade, and I'd Rather be in Philadelphia, still in Vedauwoo
Sunday I climbed Gobblers Grunt, Quivering Quill, Whimsical Dreams, and Unicorns in the South Platte.
Mostly I've been riding my bike this week, I'm hoping to get to eldo tomorrow.
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pt
Jun 22, 2005, 7:57 PM
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Registered: May 29, 2003
Posts: 400
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Days of Heaven in RMNP. One of my favorite routes of all time.
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