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Mike805


Mar 20, 2008, 6:17 PM
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Fatality database?
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I'm not trying to be morbid but I was wondering if there is a fatality database for climbing like there is for skydiving at the dropzone.com site. It's actually quite informative and helpful. I would like to know how most people die in this sport; whether it's from gear failure (what part of the gear?), human error, natural occurences, weather problems, etc...

edited for incorrect website.


(This post was edited by Mike805 on Mar 20, 2008, 6:21 PM)


irregularpanda


Mar 20, 2008, 6:27 PM
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Mike805 wrote:
I'm not trying to be morbid but I was wondering if there is a fatality database for climbing like there is for skydiving at the dropzone.com site. It's actually quite informative and helpful. I would like to know how most people die in this sport; whether it's from gear failure (what part of the gear?), human error, natural occurences, weather problems, etc...

edited for incorrect website.

The AAC publishes the ANAM (Accidents in North American Mountaineering)
It's not a database, but what it is is a representative yearly report on specific locations and the types of accidents that happen there. It also includes analysis., and it is quite helpful for that reason. For example, if you look up california in a given year it will say something like "too many rappelling incidents to report, too many belay mistakes to report" and then it will go on to describe the accidents that are representative of the area. It's a great book, I love it.

Hope that helps


majid_sabet


Mar 20, 2008, 6:43 PM
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Re: [irregularpanda] Fatality database? [In reply to]
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More than 55 climbers were killed in alpine related activities in European Alps between Jan-Oct of 2007.

Mostly due to avalanche related incidents.

17 people were killed due to rappelling error in 2007

Gear related, I did not see any incident last years but, in between 2000-2006, I had one or two incidents related gear failure.

Since Jan of 2008, more than 7 climbers were killed in winter related climbing in UK and New Zealand.

I keep track of climbing related accidents and incident for my own personal use but, if I really wanted to track them all, I bet this list can be twice as much as what you see now.


Note; Reports published by ANAM is only partial and not all the local accidents gets reported to AAC.


Mike805


Mar 20, 2008, 7:16 PM
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Hmmm, thanks for the responses, it kind of helps. Maybe this forum can make an area for just discussing accidents, I know there is an area already for that but 95% of it is just injury prevention and discussion. I was thinking more like this http://www.dropzone.com/....cgi?forum=14;guest= where people are listing actual accidents that occur and how they may have been prevented. Learning from other people's mistakes and accidents is a great way to learn and hopefully prevent future accidents.

Once a month at my DZ we go over the previous month's accidents and discuss what went wrong and how it could be prevented. This has helped us all become aware of common mistakes and accidents that can be prevented.


dingus


Mar 20, 2008, 7:25 PM
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Re: [Mike805] Fatality database? [In reply to]
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I think we climbers need to preserve our own culture and traditions. We don't debrief, generally speaking. We drink instead.

We don't deliberate our deaths the way skyboys do.... that's too organized. We don't got no stinking certifications, no patches, no tallys, no badges.

I think an organized death forum would SUCK.

Keep it at dropzone.

DMT


irregularpanda


Mar 20, 2008, 7:28 PM
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Mike805 wrote:
Hmmm, thanks for the responses, it kind of helps. Maybe this forum can make an area for just discussing accidents, I know there is an area already for that but 95% of it is just injury prevention and discussion. I was thinking more like this http://www.dropzone.com/....cgi?forum=14;guest= where people are listing actual accidents that occur and how they may have been prevented. Learning from other people's mistakes and accidents is a great way to learn and hopefully prevent future accidents.

Once a month at my DZ we go over the previous month's accidents and discuss what went wrong and how it could be prevented. This has helped us all become aware of common mistakes and accidents that can be prevented.

Yeah, click on Majid's name, then look at everything he posts. It's not comprehensive, and the grammar is atrocious, but it'll be the most you can get off of this site. I love talking shit about majid, but he really does geek out on accidents, which is super-useful (sometimes).

I recomended the ANAM not because its comprehensive, but because its representative of certain places, the types of accidents they consistently have, and the things that could have been done to prevent the accident. The regional side of things is very interesting: canada and washington state pretty much always have tons of avalanche related incidents. Alaska too. Crags pretty much always have people who don't tie knots in their rappell ropes, or they have inexperienced belayers. Basically the ANAM provides a synopsis of the areas accidents, and then talks about the ones that are relevant for many climbers and their experience levels.

I mean, they aren't comprehensive for a reason: when there are 30 accidents at smith rock about the misuse of a grigri, or the lack of wearing helmets, you kind of get the point pretty quickly.


irregularpanda


Mar 20, 2008, 8:01 PM
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Re: [dingus] Fatality database? [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
I think we climbers need to preserve our own culture and traditions. We don't debrief, generally speaking. We drink instead.

We don't deliberate our deaths the way skyboys do.... that's too organized. We don't got no stinking certifications, no patches, no tallys, no badges.

I think an organized death forum would SUCK.

Keep it at dropzone.

DMT

It's funny cuz its true.

What about us stoners? We don't want to drink after someone dies, but we'll find some brahs and brah down with the brah down!


dingus


Mar 20, 2008, 8:10 PM
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BRAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!

(Stoner conversations are always one sided... the other is holding her breath!)

DMT


Mike805


Mar 20, 2008, 8:50 PM
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Re: [dingus] Fatality database? [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
I think we climbers need to preserve our own culture and traditions. We don't debrief, generally speaking. We drink instead.

We don't deliberate our deaths the way skyboys do.... that's too organized. We don't got no stinking certifications, no patches, no tallys, no badges.

I think an organized death forum would SUCK.

Keep it at dropzone.

DMT

Yeah, what was I thinking, safety education and discussion that has proven itself to lower accident rates while the # of participants increase by the thousands is a stupid idea. Learning from other people's mistakes is for pussies Crazy


martcharb


Mar 20, 2008, 8:51 PM
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http://alpineclub-edm.org/accidents/index.asp


dingus


Mar 20, 2008, 9:04 PM
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Re: [Mike805] Fatality database? [In reply to]
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Mike805 wrote:
dingus wrote:
I think we climbers need to preserve our own culture and traditions. We don't debrief, generally speaking. We drink instead.

We don't deliberate our deaths the way skyboys do.... that's too organized. We don't got no stinking certifications, no patches, no tallys, no badges.

I think an organized death forum would SUCK.

Keep it at dropzone.

DMT

Yeah, what was I thinking, safety education and discussion that has proven itself to lower accident rates while the # of participants increase by the thousands is a stupid idea. Learning from other people's mistakes is for pussies Crazy

Ah yes self-righteous sarcasm... you MUST be from dropzone hahahahahahaha!

Cheers dude (go ahead and start your Forum of the Dead!)
DMT


skiclimb


Mar 20, 2008, 10:56 PM
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Re: [dingus] Fatality database? [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
I think we climbers need to preserve our own culture and traditions. We don't debrief, generally speaking. We drink instead.

We don't deliberate our deaths the way skyboys do.... that's too organized. We don't got no stinking certifications, no patches, no tallys, no badges.

I think an organized death forum would SUCK.

Keep it at dropzone.

DMT

I have a feeling the above climber was actually making a serious reply he beleives. Wjile I'm sure the above attitude is becoming more common It is not ture with the previous generations in general

Professional oriented/most serious climbers do exactly what the orogonal poster implied. The people who mentored me, who I looked up to spent a lot of time analyzing accidents and how to avoid them in the future. Acidents in north american mountaineering is what you are looking for.


(This post was edited by skiclimb on Mar 20, 2008, 11:01 PM)


hugepedro


Mar 20, 2008, 11:23 PM
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Re: [Mike805] Fatality database? [In reply to]
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I know everything I need to know about climbing accidents, modes of gear failure, etc., without a death database.

If you're having trouble finding such information you're not trying very hard.


Mike805


Mar 21, 2008, 12:59 AM
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In reply to:
Ah yes self-righteous sarcasm... you MUST be from dropzone hahahahahahaha!

Cheers dude (go ahead and start your Forum of the Dead!)
DMT

You are right, it was sarcastic but I don't see how it was self-righteous. You are the one sounding self-righteous and very pompous, speaking as if you speak for the entire rockclimbing community.

I have many hobbies besides just skydiving and rockclimbing and in every one of them there is an elitist asshole who thinks that the way things "are" must remain the same always. Don't get me wrong, I have been one of those assholes at one time or another but drop the ego and attitude for a second and just try to realize that traditions and safety do not always agree with eachother.

Thanks to those with serious reply's. I understand that it's a touchy subject and most of you elitist climbers would rather just talk shit about those who are actually trying to learn what not to do without having to figure it out themselves, but try to understand that some people do learn from other's mistakes and if it saves someone's life to have learned what not to do from someone elses unfortunes....we may not be as cool as those who don't want to learn from others, but at least we are not lemmings.

BTW, I have no account over at DZ.com, I just thought the fatality database and the incident reports were a great learning tool for those who can choke down their ego's to learn something from someone elses misfortune.

P.S. From my experience with other high risk sports...those of you that think you have nothing more to learn are the first to get hurt or killed.


dingus


Mar 21, 2008, 1:14 AM
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Mike805 wrote:
In reply to:
Ah yes self-righteous sarcasm... you MUST be from dropzone hahahahahahaha!

Cheers dude (go ahead and start your Forum of the Dead!)
DMT

You are right, it was sarcastic but I don't see how it was self-righteous. You are the one sounding self-righteous and very pompous, speaking as if you speak for the entire rockclimbing community.

I don't use smiley faces. I'm not speaking for the climbing 'community' as there isn't one. We're tribal, not communal.

Being tribal any one of us can speak for the tribe, that's the way it works. We used to have a Chief but we killed her and ate her liver. Thus we all gained strength.

There used to be a Basejump fatality list, with details of each person who augered in. I felt that list was at once poignant and offensive - poignant in the frequency of death, offensive in that the basejumping community seemed to take ownership of the details of those people.

There's nothing wrong with accident analysis, I concur. I'm ex-Air Force. Accident analysis is a huge deal there as I'm sure you know. I of course acknowledge the value of proper analysis.

All that said? I STILL don't think rc.com should have such a forum. I don't think this group should emulate dropzone in ANY fashion whatsoever.

Feel free to insert smiley faces at the appropriate places in my post.

Cheers dude!
DMT


majid_sabet


Mar 21, 2008, 2:18 AM
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hugepedro wrote:
I know everything I need to know about climbing accidents, modes of gear failure, etc., without a death database.

If you're having trouble finding such information you're not trying very hard.

Since you know a lot please share some of your knowledge and educate us.


Alpine07


Mar 21, 2008, 3:38 AM
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Re: [skiclimb] Fatality database? [In reply to]
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skiclimb wrote:
dingus wrote:
I think we climbers need to preserve our own culture and traditions. We don't debrief, generally speaking. We drink instead.

We don't deliberate our deaths the way skyboys do.... that's too organized. We don't got no stinking certifications, no patches, no tallys, no badges.

I think an organized death forum would SUCK.

Keep it at dropzone.

DMT

I have a feeling the above climber was actually making a serious reply he beleives. Wjile I'm sure the above attitude is becoming more common It is not ture with the previous generations in general

Im pretty sure Dingus is from a previous generation.

And he is absolutely right, keep it at dropzone.


Mike805


Mar 21, 2008, 4:02 AM
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dingus wrote:
There's nothing wrong with accident analysis, I concur. I'm ex-Air Force. Accident analysis is a huge deal there as I'm sure you know. I of course acknowledge the value of proper analysis.

All that said? I STILL don't think rc.com should have such a forum. I don't think this group should emulate dropzone in ANY fashion whatsoever.

Okay, now we have a civilized discussion. The first paragraph is the point that I'm trying to make; there is value, and imo a huge value, to accident analysis. I also understand where you are coming from. In small sports such as this, hearing about deaths is really just talking about your dead buddy...which is depressing. Trust me, I know all too well what it's like to go over an accident that involved one or more of your close friends. I totally respect you not wanting to wave the dirty laundry around so to speak buuuut some people still may benefit from it and if it keeps someone else from making the same mistake......


...and I don't see why emulating dz.com is such a bad thing. I realize it's a different sport but the basic facts remain the same: high risk, life-dependent and complicated equipment, small community, self-reliant for education, etc. even looking at the # of users on each site is within 1000 people. There accident report system is HIGHLY moderated and it's double checked with real facts before posting. 2007 saw the lowest # of skydiving related accidents and deaths since 1962. You can say it was something else but I'm saying that accident analysis does play a role and even if it keeps one more person alive, isn't it worth it.


hugepedro


Mar 21, 2008, 4:29 AM
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majid_sabet wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
I know everything I need to know about climbing accidents, modes of gear failure, etc., without a death database.

If you're having trouble finding such information you're not trying very hard.

Since you know a lot please share some of your knowledge and educate us.

I thought that was your job. But ok, here's a tip, try to avoid stuff falling on your head.

Anything else you want to know?


uhoh


Mar 21, 2008, 4:45 AM
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hugepedro wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
I know everything I need to know about climbing accidents, modes of gear failure, etc., without a death database.

If you're having trouble finding such information you're not trying very hard.

Since you know a lot please share some of your knowledge and educate us.

I thought that was your job. But ok, here's a tip, try to avoid stuff falling on your head.

Anything else you want to know?

How much would could a woodchuck chuck if a woodchuck could chuck wood?

Proactive riposte: I've some wood right here for you to chuck!


Alpine07


Mar 21, 2008, 3:02 PM
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uhoh wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
I know everything I need to know about climbing accidents, modes of gear failure, etc., without a death database.

If you're having trouble finding such information you're not trying very hard.

Since you know a lot please share some of your knowledge and educate us.

I thought that was your job. But ok, here's a tip, try to avoid stuff falling on your head.

Anything else you want to know?

How much would could a woodchuck chuck if a woodchuck could chuck wood?

Proactive riposte: I've some wood right here for you to chuck!

I once knew a climber that could chuck a cord of wood in about 15 minutes.


dingus


Mar 21, 2008, 3:04 PM
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Alpine07 wrote:
skiclimb wrote:
dingus wrote:
I think we climbers need to preserve our own culture and traditions. We don't debrief, generally speaking. We drink instead.

We don't deliberate our deaths the way skyboys do.... that's too organized. We don't got no stinking certifications, no patches, no tallys, no badges.

I think an organized death forum would SUCK.

Keep it at dropzone.

DMT

I have a feeling the above climber was actually making a serious reply he beleives. Wjile I'm sure the above attitude is becoming more common It is not ture with the previous generations in general

Im pretty sure Dingus is from a previous generation.

And he is absolutely right, keep it at dropzone.

Previous generation? I'm from another mother fuckin PLANET!

DMT


dingus


Mar 21, 2008, 3:16 PM
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Mike805 wrote:
Okay, now we have a civilized discussion.

Oh stop it, you're not going to change me. I've been beat up by way uglier folk than you.

In reply to:
The first paragraph is the point that I'm trying to make; there is value, and imo a huge value, to accident analysis.

Yes but this is rc.com. Take a look at some of majid's 'accident' trolls and the subsequent analysis posts. There is actually less than zero value in such threads, imo, unless they are HEAVILY POLICED to remove the noobknowitall crap that doesn't just creep in, bu comes in by avalanche.

Someone has to monitor those threads continuously to keep any sort of value.

Now on a commerical site where the owners just *bought in* and started laying down dictates, of what impulse or motivitation would you have to GIVE THEM YOUR LABOR and your content, in this fahsion?

WHY would you do that? Why would anyone do that? For free?

In reply to:
I also understand where you are coming from.

No offence my friend but I don't think you do.

In reply to:
In small sports such as this, hearing about deaths is really just talking about your dead buddy...which is depressing. Trust me, I know all too well what it's like to go over an accident that involved one or more of your close friends. I totally respect you not wanting to wave the dirty laundry around so to speak buuuut some people still may benefit from it and if it keeps someone else from making the same mistake......

That's not it. If something happened to my buddy I'd damn well want to know what, if anything, he did tto precipitate it. Like I said, I understand accident analysis.

I just don't think this is the place for it. It isn't going to be policed sufficiently to keep the crap out. How could it???? Accident analysis involves visits to the scene, thoughtful consideration, SCIENCE even!

As others have pointed out repeatedly, there is a group in north America that has filled this role for some time. They have the disciplines in place to add value, not opinion (and mostly wrong opinion at that).

JT512 makes this point, about the value of the information here, over and over with all technical aspects of climbing. That folks have the tendency, (he and I included of course) to post up our *thoughts* about subjects we may not have direct experience with.

Now I trust jt512s educated guesses a helluva lot more than your average bear's, but I don't believe his solution - a highly moderated website where there is no tolerance for bullshit and deviating from the administrative line will get you censored or banned. Further, I personally don't want other people editing my posts, ever, for many of the same reasons already cited.

This is a recreational site. Its a place where climbers come to bullshit with other climbers. Making it into a *resource site*, making it ALL ABOUT BEING a resource site, is wrong imo.

If a commercial enterprise wants to create such a site then those funding it and running it should pony up WITH THEIR OWN VALUE-ADD and stop using the works of others as if they own it.

Cheers dude!
DMT


(This post was edited by dingus on Mar 21, 2008, 3:17 PM)


drljefe


Mar 21, 2008, 3:43 PM
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The tribe has spoken.


dingus


Mar 21, 2008, 3:59 PM
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Hehe.

DMT

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