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dudemanbu
Apr 22, 2009, 4:44 AM
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desertwanderer81 wrote: For me, it's Joshua Tree as the most over rated and Ragged Mountain in CT as the most under rated.
Overrated: Cannon, NH
Underrated: Ragged Mountain.
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climbsomething
Apr 22, 2009, 4:46 AM
Post #52 of 147
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clausti wrote: most overrated crag is rifle, for damn sure. j-tree at least does have some fun, good routes.
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munky
Apr 22, 2009, 10:44 AM
Post #53 of 147
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Overrated: Boulder area (as many others have said). If I lived there I'm sure i would climb locally and love the sheer volume of rock but the truth of it is, that shit is choss. I'd make the trip to Lumpy, or the Platte anyday before climbing at Eldo or boulder canyon. Although I did like Dream Canyon some decent bolted routes there
Underrated: ALL OF NORTH CAROLINA (Looking Glass, Whitesides, Linville Gorge, Moores Wall, Rumbling Bald, Laurel Knob, Shiprock, Bouldering anywhere)
And whoever said Yosemite was overated is clearly an idiot. The place is HUGE. Get over to Mt. Watkins or anywhere else in the backcountry and you won't see a sole. Even the the popular routes are not all that busy with the exception of a few long vacation weekends throughout the year. Tuolomne in the summer is a dream. "Overrated ghetto", you got to be kidding me. Fucking idiot!
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rtwilli4
Apr 22, 2009, 12:06 PM
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munky wrote: Overrated: Boulder area (as many others have said). If I lived there I'm sure i would climb locally and love the sheer volume of rock but the truth of it is, that shit is choss. I'd make the trip to Lumpy, or the Platte anyday before climbing at Eldo or boulder canyon. Although I did like Dream Canyon some decent bolted routes there Underrated: ALL OF NORTH CAROLINA (Looking Glass, Whitesides, Linville Gorge, Moores Wall, Rumbling Bald, Laurel Knob, Shiprock, Bouldering anywhere) And whoever said Yosemite was overated is clearly an idiot. The place is HUGE. Get over to Mt. Watkins or anywhere else in the backcountry and you won't see a sole. Even the the popular routes are not all that busy with the exception of a few long vacation weekends throughout the year. Tuolomne in the summer is a dream. "Overrated ghetto", you got to be kidding me. Fucking idiot!
What are you talking about? North Carolina doesn't have any good climbing? It's too hot and there are too many people. I think it's pretty over rated if you ask me.
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kachoong
Apr 22, 2009, 12:56 PM
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camhead wrote: The only underrated crag that I will mention would be the Wichitas in OK.
Well, that's good news... I may have to head up there and check it out. I think we're only about a five hour drive.
When crags are under- or over-rated, I find this to be subjective depending on who's saying it. I think if you climb somewhere long enough you're most likely going to get bored of the routes and/or rock itself (especially for smaller crags) and call it over-rated when you hear people bragging about it. Someone mentioned Railay as over-rated but in my opinion, as someone who's only climbed there once, it's great. It may have been recommended a lot to me by lots of people, but that doesn't mean to me it's over-rated because I enjoyed my time there... now if I either go there bi-yearly or live there, my opinion may change.
Personally, I really liked climbing at Skaha in BC (the few times I went) and would say it's under-rated, but to a local it may be the opposite. It sure was a great change when Squamish got soggy. Also, Reimer's Ranch in Texas (in my opinion) is over-rated, but mainly because I've been there a lot and it's really one of the only places locals have to rave about.
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kachoong
Apr 22, 2009, 1:40 PM
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camhead wrote: kachoong wrote: Reimer's Ranch in Texas (in my opinion) is over-rated, but mainly because I've been there a lot and it's really one of the only places locals have to rave about. I definitely agree with you there. A lot of Texas climbers would have you believe that Reimer's is a major roadtrip destination on par with Wild Iris ad the VRG for awesome limestone. It really is just a nice local area, nothing more. As Ed said earlier, Enchanted Rock is the most underrated place in Texas.
Yeah, it's certainly NOT a road trip destination... I agree that E-Rock is the focal you should aim for if going to the Austin area.
Hey camhead, where can I get a good guide for Wichita's?
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justroberto
Apr 22, 2009, 1:53 PM
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munky wrote: Underrated: ALL OF NORTH CAROLINA (Looking Glass, Whitesides, Linville Gorge, Moores Wall, Rumbling Bald, Laurel Knob, Shiprock, Bouldering anywhere)
Seconded. NC is the shit.
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shoo
Apr 22, 2009, 2:04 PM
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lwilson wrote: I used to think the same about Rumney, but I have found that as you move up the grades, its gets better. The moves get more interesting, and are more varied. just my opinion tho. I have to second Ragged Mt as being an underrated crag. its not super big, but the good routes there are GOOD.
The first rule of Ragged is DON'T TALK ABOUT RAGGED.
Please note the irony.
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lwilson
Apr 22, 2009, 2:29 PM
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Irony noted 
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cchas
Apr 22, 2009, 2:50 PM
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For long routes, the Bugaboos is probably very under rated, maybe not the most underrated but up there. The climbing is great, if you are looking for moderate to relatively hard long routes (hard is a relative term). The only problem is that you will more likely get rained out then not.
For sports climbing Sardinia (Italy, for those that are geographically challenged, an island west of Rome) is where I've had the most fun. single pitch caves off of white sand beaches to 10-17 pitch routes fairly close to the beach.
I won't say my choice for over rated trad areas since I'd definately get blasted by 10K posters or so, but CrackMD knows what I said and why.
For over rated sports areas, I'd say Mallorca, but its probably just because I didn't have good beta before going and I ended up at several chossy crags, probably missing out on the better stuff. It was an amzingly beautiful place though.
(This post was edited by cchas on Apr 22, 2009, 2:55 PM)
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desertwanderer81
Apr 22, 2009, 3:55 PM
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shoo wrote: lwilson wrote: I used to think the same about Rumney, but I have found that as you move up the grades, its gets better. The moves get more interesting, and are more varied. just my opinion tho. I have to second Ragged Mt as being an underrated crag. its not super big, but the good routes there are GOOD. The first rule of Ragged is DON'T TALK ABOUT RAGGED. Please note the irony.
Ha, it's like its own little gem. I always get excited when I find someone out west who's been to Ragged.
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desertwanderer81
Apr 22, 2009, 3:59 PM
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lwilson wrote: I used to think the same about Rumney, but I have found that as you move up the grades, its gets better. The moves get more interesting, and are more varied. just my opinion tho. I have to second Ragged Mt as being an underrated crag. its not super big, but the good routes there are GOOD.
You rock my world :D
The only thing I don't like about Ragged is the parking.... which if you're new to the area.... takes a long time to figure out, hehe.
I'd guess you probably like Rose Ledges too? ;)
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lucander
Apr 22, 2009, 5:50 PM
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Overrated:
Ragged Mountain, CT: How can a cliff this compact have loose rock and lichen? Worth a day or two, but c'mon
Gunks: There's some great climbing but it takes some getting used to - crowds, millipedes, and humidity
Underrated:
Like I'd tell you. Let's just say there's a lot of good things out in those American deserts.
DL
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desertwanderer81
Apr 22, 2009, 6:00 PM
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If you can get to the Gunks on a weekday the crowds aren't quite so bad.
It's mostly just a nice relaxing day with almost no fear of an "epic".
Also, I've never had a problem with excessive humidity and over hundreds of trips there, I've seen about 3 milipedes :p
And what's so bad about them in the first place? :p
I never had an excessive problem with loose rock or lichen at Ragged. It's there, but where is it not? hehe.
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danabart
Apr 22, 2009, 6:02 PM
Post #67 of 147
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Potrero Chico was pretty uninspiring. I can't imagine a tamer or more homogenized experience; it was like minature golf.
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dingus
Apr 22, 2009, 6:06 PM
Post #68 of 147
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g wrote: sgreer wrote: I don't think locals stay there much. Why would a real local ever stay in Camp 4, when you can just head home at the end of the day?
Why? For some, camp 4 IS home?
DMT
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potreroed
Apr 23, 2009, 5:02 AM
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danabart wrote: Potrero Chico was pretty uninspiring. I can't imagine a tamer or more homogenized experience; it was like minature golf.
You probably find most sport climbing to be a bit homogenized. Next time bring your rack and climb the routes placing your own gear--better yet, put up your own routes on trad gear. I guarantee you'll get more adventure than you bargained for.
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sungam
Apr 23, 2009, 3:48 PM
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climbingtrash wrote: sungam wrote: Fisher towers - mega underrated. You had a good time on those mud piles did ya?
Now I've just got to get areyoumydude to go climb some more routes there with me.
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byran
Apr 23, 2009, 8:25 PM
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The most underrated that I've been to is Sedona, AZ. The spires might not look as clean and aesthetic as the ones in Moab, but it's got fun routes with great summit views and some exciting jumps between spires. Full value climbing.
Also Mt. Charleston, just an hour north of Red Rock, has some great sport climbing on alpine limestone. Perfect for summer cragging and less crowded than the Black Corridor, even in July.
I don't really know if I've been to a place that I thought was overrated. I guess I wasn't too impressed with the stuff around Boulder, especially in comparison to Lumpy and RMNP, but I haven't spent enough time there to actually make a fair assessment. And I've heard more negative things about Boulder than praise, so it's not like it's actually that hyped.
Joshua Tree is one of those places you have to spend a lot of time at before you can appreciate it. There's just so many gems tucked away in the Wonderland and Queen Mountain and other places that don't see a lot of traffic. I've been climbing there for 3 years, often 2-3 days a week during the winter months, and I'm still finding excellent routes that I've never done before. It's a great place to be close to, but I can also see how it would be disappointing to people just passing through on a road trip.
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caliclimbergrl
Apr 23, 2009, 8:42 PM
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I totally agree about J Tree!! I live in Seattle and my family is in San Diego, so when I go back to visit them for Christmas, I usually take at least a few days to head out to J Tree for some climbing. And I will probably continue to do so. But it's more for the sunshine and just being outside. I do enjoy climbing there because I enjoy climbing anywhere!! But I only go there for the convenience. I don't think it's that great of a place to climb!
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bandycoot
Apr 23, 2009, 9:25 PM
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Well, while you all avoid it I'll be out in J-Tree this weekend. It's a magical place, fun to camp, explore, and climb. The routes are unendingly varied (have you done Imaginary Voyage?) and the friction is great. Yes, you have to chase stars and there are a lot of routes that aren't worth it, but there are hundreds that are and sometimes the 2 hour hike to get there is part of the fun.
Josh (Maybe I just like it because of my name?)
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caliclimbergrl
Apr 23, 2009, 9:27 PM
Post #74 of 147
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I do think J Tree is a pretty cool place, I just don't think the climbing is all that great. But since I can climb there in December and January when it's too wet and cold to climb up here, I always have a good time there. I don't think it's an awful place or anything -- just over rated.
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