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kachoong
Feb 9, 2010, 2:05 PM
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Bachar-Yerian
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currupt4130
Feb 9, 2010, 3:05 PM
Post #28 of 67
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j_ung wrote: currupt4130 wrote: Go to Stone Mountain North Carolina.  Definitive slab climbs, eh? 1. Buy NC guidebook. 2. Turn to Stone Mountain.
I finally bought an NC guide for a trip this weekend and I have to say, I didn't know how many routes were at stone until now.
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trenchdigger
Feb 9, 2010, 3:51 PM
Post #29 of 67
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kachoong wrote: Bachar-Yerian
Suicide Rock in Idyllwild likely has a lot of classic hard slabs, though some of which have crux sections too vertical to really call "slab". Slab master Darrel Hensel put most of the hard ones up. Some of the classics off the top of my head...
Serpentine (5.9)
Ten Karat Gold (5.10 R)
Sundance (5.10b)
Valhalla (5.11a)
Rebolting Development (5.11a R)
New Generation (5.11c)
Moondance (5.11c)
The Untickable (5.12a)
Ishi (5.12d)
Someone You're Not (5.13a)
Stone Mountain is good fun for really low-angle easier stuff with healthy runouts, but the .12s there would probably be hard 5.10s at Suicide.
Squamish and Yosemite/Tuolumne undoubtably have some too, as I'm sure any of the big, smooth granite chunks around the world do. Let's hear some more ideas...
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wonderwoman
Feb 9, 2010, 3:58 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: There is a great 3 pitch climb there called Local Boys Do Good (5.11a).
AND, it's next to a water fall!
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...s_Do_Good_27477.html
Took my first and last slab fall on that one, so it was pretty definitive for me.
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qwert
Feb 9, 2010, 4:15 PM
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Mmh, slab ...
so since no location was specified heres some european stuff:
Val di mello, italy. Lots of demanding slab climbs.
Bohuslän, sweden. Also quite a few slabs, but all very short (mostly single pitch)
And probably a lot of stuff in all the once glaciated regions of Norway. and maybe a lot of stuff in greenland too.
qwert
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hafilax
Feb 9, 2010, 4:16 PM
Post #32 of 67
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There's tons of slab in Squamish some well protected some runout. I haven't done any of the hard classics but according to McLean some of them are:
Bloodlust Direct 11a 6p
Dancing in the Light 11b 6p
Unfinished Symphony 11b 8p
Magic Carpet Ride 11c 4p (Local Boys Do Good's big brother)
Dream On 12a 7p (Probably the crown jewel of Squamish Slab)
If you want a runout you can hop on Grim Reaper 10b put up onsight. I started the list at 11a but there are lots more at moderate grades and that's only the long routes. There are even more single pitch. Friction is the heart of Squamish climbing. There's even a V8 problem called Black Slabbeth.
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Carnage
Feb 9, 2010, 4:21 PM
Post #33 of 67
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j_ung wrote: currupt4130 wrote: Go to Stone Mountain North Carolina. Definitive slab climbs, eh? 1. Buy NC guidebook. 2. Turn to Stone Mountain.
i bet some of the 9's and 10's at stone will compare with the 11's mentioned by others.
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csproul
Feb 9, 2010, 4:22 PM
Post #34 of 67
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trenchdigger wrote: ... Stone Mountain is good fun for really low-angle easier stuff with healthy runouts, but the .12s there would probably be hard 5.10s at Suicide....
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wonderwoman
Feb 9, 2010, 4:29 PM
Post #35 of 67
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hafilax wrote: There's tons of slab in Squamish some well protected some runout. I haven't done any of the hard classics but according to McLean some of them are: Bloodlust Direct 11a 6p Dancing in the Light 11b 6p Unfinished Symphony 11b 8p Magic Carpet Ride 11c 4p (Local Boys Do Good's big brother) Dream On 12a 7p (Probably the crown jewel of Squamish Slab) If you want a runout you can hop on Grim Reaper 10b put up onsight. I started the list at 11a but there are lots more at moderate grades and that's only the long routes. There are even more single pitch. Friction is the heart of Squamish climbing. There's even a V8 problem called Black Slabbeth.
I love Squamish. We're going back every other year until we're sick of it. Everything there is stellar.
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trenchdigger
Feb 9, 2010, 4:30 PM
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csproul wrote: trenchdigger wrote: ... Stone Mountain is good fun for really low-angle easier stuff with healthy runouts, but the .12s there would probably be hard 5.10s at Suicide.... That might be true if there were more than one 12 at Stone. As far as I know there is only one, Scimitar. I haven't climbed it, but I have heard it said that it climbs easier than 12. As far as the rest of Stone Mountain climbs, I'd say they do typically have ratings that are a little inconsistent with the rest of the state and feel a little easier than rated. I'm not sure about two number grades different than Suicide, but then again, I haven't climbed at Suicide for about 6-7 years.
Indeed... that's the one I got on. And I agree that the 10s felt within a couple of letter grades.
Obviously Suicide varies a bit too, especially the routes that get a lot of traffic like Serpentine. Ten Karat Gold (discounting the runout) is now IMHO easier than Serpentine because of its squeaky slick holds.
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jrathfon
Feb 9, 2010, 5:14 PM
Post #37 of 67
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across the universe, mt. willard, NH
banana peel and others on the apron, squamish... mmmm... glassy slab.
pretty much all the 11's on cannon, NH, pull overlap, move across 5.11 run out slab, rinse and repeat, oh yeah, fall onto rusty quarter inch bolt... lab wall, benedictus, probably many more, would only know from videos though.
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boadman
Feb 9, 2010, 5:15 PM
Post #38 of 67
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LCohen wrote: Wow! Thanks. To be more specific, I'm planning on focusing all my energy this coming season on slab and would love to get some opinions on the ultimate slab climbs. I'm quite comfortable on some of the easier TM classics such as the Dike Route and Needle/Spoon, but want to really start pushing it. Thanks again!
Swim at Index.
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 9, 2010, 5:29 PM
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raingod wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: ...If you want better protected slab, then you can go to Squamish in the northwest. ... Josh Once you cross into Canada "the northwest" takes on a slightly different meaning. But I agree about the well protected slabs in Squamish Ron
Hehe. Yes, I realize that Squamish is actually the southwest part of the country but, was thinking of the region as a whole. If he is coming from further south then he would be heading to the Pacific Northwest, which I guess I consider BC part of that region.
Josh
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LCohen
Feb 9, 2010, 6:43 PM
Post #40 of 67
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Thanks, Guys! Really appreciate the feedback - it's given me a bunch of new options and ideas.
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seatbeltpants
Feb 9, 2010, 7:00 PM
Post #41 of 67
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Storjon wrote: James Pearsons "The walk of life", definitly.
saw the video of his ascent at the banff film fest this year - very very cool route, by the looks.
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camhead
Feb 9, 2010, 7:32 PM
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Quartz Mt. in Oklahoma should be on anyone's list of slab-intensive places. Yes, Oklahoma.
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bandycoot
Feb 9, 2010, 7:59 PM
Post #43 of 67
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trenchdigger wrote: kachoong wrote: Bachar-Yerian A slab? Suicide Rock in Idyllwild likely has a lot of classic hard slabs, though some of which have crux sections too vertical to really call "slab". Slab master Darrel Hensel put most of the hard ones up. Some of the classics off the top of my head... Serpentine (5.9) Ten Karat Gold (5.10 R) Sundance (5.10b) Valhalla (5.11a) Rebolting Development (5.11a R) New Generation (5.11c) Moondance (5.11c) The Untickable (5.12a) Ishi (5.12d) Someone You're Not (5.13a)
Trenchdigger, go get on Duck Soup! It's awesome! For the 2nd pitch, have you belayer use the anchor for another climb below and out right so that if you blow the 5.10 runout right off the anchor it isn't factor 2 and you won't hit your belayer. :)
Also, I agree. The B-Y is vertical knobs and is in no way a slab climb by the largest stretch of the imagination.
(This post was edited by bandycoot on Feb 9, 2010, 8:00 PM)
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boadman
Feb 9, 2010, 8:08 PM
Post #44 of 67
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bandycoot wrote: trenchdigger wrote: kachoong wrote: Bachar-Yerian A slab? Suicide Rock in Idyllwild likely has a lot of classic hard slabs, though some of which have crux sections too vertical to really call "slab". Slab master Darrel Hensel put most of the hard ones up. Some of the classics off the top of my head... Serpentine (5.9) Ten Karat Gold (5.10 R) Sundance (5.10b) Valhalla (5.11a) Rebolting Development (5.11a R) New Generation (5.11c) Moondance (5.11c) The Untickable (5.12a) Ishi (5.12d) Someone You're Not (5.13a) Trenchdigger, go get on Duck Soup! It's awesome! For the 2nd pitch, have you belayer use the anchor for another climb below and out right so that if you blow the 5.10 runout right off the anchor it isn't factor 2 and you won't hit your belayer. :) Also, I agree. The B-Y is vertical knobs and is in no way a slab climb by the largest stretch of the imagination.
Anything less than 90 degrees is a slab climb. It might not be a friction slab, but it's still a slab.
I think Index in Washington is probably the coolest place for slab climbing I've ever been. Really funky slab climbs. Super wierd beta.
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clintcummins
Feb 9, 2010, 8:17 PM
Post #45 of 67
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Since you mentioned Tuolumne Meadows, here is a list of slabs in Yosemite Valley, from
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/update.htm
Slab
273. Dark Side 5.7
277. Wump World 5.7
278. Emm Too 5.7
1272. Swan Slab West Slab 5.7
1818. Snake Dike 5.7 R ***
274. Slipstream 5.8
283. Little Tin Gods 5.8
284. Plastic Jesus 5.8
285. Joint Venture 5.8
286. A Route For Robert Whitelaw 5.8
1948. Grack - Right 5.8 R/X
1973. Patio Pinnacle - Regular Route 5.8 R
1985. Harry Daley Route 5.8 ***
1993. Point Beyond 5.8 **
281. Eye Noir 5.9
287. Smear Campaign 5.9 *
1731. The Prude 5.9 **
1946. Grack - Marginal 5.9 R ***
1947. Grack - Right var. 5.9
1956. The Mouth - Regular 5.9 R *
1958. Flakey Foont 5.9 R/X *
1963. Goodrich Pinnacle - Right Side 5.9 ***
1967. Goodrich Pinnacle - Coonyard Traverse 5.9
1968. Hoser's Highway 5.9 R
1972. Patio Pinnacle - Left Side 5.9 R
1978. Angelica 5.9 R *
1991. Coonyard Pinnacle 5.9 R
1997. Angel's Approach 5.9 ***
2000. Lucifer's Ledge 5.9
282. The Cookie Sheet 5.9+
1702. Crest Jewel 5.10a ***
1939. An Udder Way 5.10a R *
1953. Deep Throat 5.10a R *
1981. Patio to Coonyard 5.10a
2386. Bottom Feeder 5.10a *
2387. Cat Dancing 5.10a **
991. Crystalline Passage 5.10b **
1242. The Peanut 5.10b
1940. Hoppy's Favorite 5.10b R *
2385. Stupid Pet Tricks 5.10b **
1241. Chain Reaction 5.10c
1732. Rurp Rape 5.10c R
1932. A Mother's Lament 5.10c R/X
2349. Stoner's Highway 5.10c ***
2369. Ramer 5.10c ***
1632. Greasy but Groovy 5.10d R/X *
1704. Crest Jewel Direct 5.10d ***
1959. Misty Beethoven 5.10d R ***
2002. Slamdance p1 5.10d
2006. Sailin' Shoes 5.10d **
1727. Precious Powder 5.11a *
1952. Ochre Fields 5.11a R *
2004. Anchors Away 5.11a ***
2016. Lean Years 5.11a *
824. Pterodactyl Terrace - Right 5.11b
845. The Promise 5.11b R *
847. The Bluffer 5.11b *
854. Submen 5.11b R *
1557. Firefingers 5.11b R **
1912. Strange Energy 5.11b
1930. Dead Baby 5.11b **
1933. Tightrope 5.11b R *
1957. Mouth to Perhaps 5.11b
1966. Galactic Hitchhiker 5.11b
2008. Chiropodist Shop 5.11b *
2010. Ephemeral Clogdance 5.11b R *
2028. Green Dragon 5.11b ***
2388. Orange Peel 5.11b R **
1145. Koko Ledge - Center 5.11c R
1538. Rupto Pac 5.11c
2014. Nothing on the Apron 5.11c
2378. Ticket to Nowhere 5.11c R ***
853. Champagne on Ice 5.11d R **
987. The White Zone 5.11d
988. Annette Funicello 5.11d
2009. The Token 5.11d R/X **
2015. Something on the Apron 5.11d
2034. Thunderhead 5.11d
2348. Rainbow Bridge 5.11d *
846. The Believer 5.12a *
855. El Matador 5.12a R **
1922. Jack the Zipper 5.12a *
2358. Gnar Gnar 5.12a
2376. Road to Ruin 5.12a **
1917. Collision Course 5.12b
1924. Wild at Heart 5.12b **
2003. Slamdance 5.12
2032. Scimitar Direct 5.12 * TR
1960. Hall of Mirrors 5.12c R ***
1790. Half Dome - Direct Northwest Face 5.13c/d **
A few low angle "face" climbs, like Poker Face 5.10b ** and Face Card 5.10c are missing from the list, but could easily be called slab climbs. Look in the guidebook for the routes between Serenity Crack and Washington Column, on Glacier Point Apron, and Middle Cathedral North Face Apron.
(This post was edited by clintcummins on Feb 11, 2010, 7:51 PM)
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cracklover
Feb 9, 2010, 8:25 PM
Post #46 of 67
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johnwesely wrote: yokese wrote: LCohen wrote: Is anyone aware of a list of the best/most definitive slab climbs? Thanks! I don't really understand what you mean by "best/most definitive", but this one is surely one of the hardest: http://www.planetmountain.com/...?l=2&keyid=36940Since when are face routes considered slab?
Agreed, not what I'd call slab, but good GOD man, that looks impossible.
GO
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I_do
Feb 9, 2010, 8:46 PM
Post #47 of 67
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote: yokese wrote: LCohen wrote: Is anyone aware of a list of the best/most definitive slab climbs? Thanks! I don't really understand what you mean by "best/most definitive", but this one is surely one of the hardest: http://www.planetmountain.com/...?l=2&keyid=36940Vertical slab climbing? ...with crimps and underclings? He keeps using that word. I do not think it means what he think it means.
And what the hell is a consolidated hold?
A hold reinforced with sika to keep it in place. But aren't you supposed to pretend you know everything?
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bandycoot
Feb 10, 2010, 12:59 AM
Post #48 of 67
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In reply to: Anything less than 90 degrees is a slab climb. It might not be a friction slab, but it's still a slab.
I'm pretty sure that the meat of the B-Y is vertical, as I said before. Thus, it probably wouldn't be considered a slab.
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boadman
Feb 10, 2010, 1:18 AM
Post #49 of 67
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bandycoot wrote: In reply to: Anything less than 90 degrees is a slab climb. It might not be a friction slab, but it's still a slab. I'm pretty sure that the meat of the B-Y is vertical, as I said before. Thus, it probably wouldn't be considered a slab.
Watch the video:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=45198
There's a bunch of pictures at the end that show the angle of the climb. It's steep, but not vertical.
Slab.
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bandycoot
Feb 10, 2010, 5:07 AM
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"That's, like, your opinion, man." ~The Big Lebowski
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