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hincking
Apr 5, 2010, 10:40 PM
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jst got back from the red how do u think the new compares....which do u think is better?
iive heard the new offers a lot more trad how true is this
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MS1
Apr 5, 2010, 11:13 PM
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hincking wrote: jst got back from the red how do u think the new compares....which do u think is better? iive heard the new offers a lot more trad how true is this
I haven't been to the New yet, because the Red is closer for me and I haven't gotten bored with it yet. That being said, I looked up the number of routes listed on the Red River Climbing website and compared them to the routes listed in the Cater NRG Guidebook (including Meadow River and Summersville Lake routes), and got the following totals:
RRG: 863 trad and mixed routes.
NRG (+MR & SL): 1133 trad and mixed routes.
So, although I think you could climb trad for years at the Red without getting bored, your statement is technically correct; there are more trad lines at the New.
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Carnage
Apr 6, 2010, 8:20 PM
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They are both amazing.
The red is known for its overhanging jug hall and pocketed routes, and thats what you get there.
i dunno what the new is known for, but it has a shit ton of climbing.
I've been to both and I have to say that there is not one that is better. The two places are pretty similar and you find a lot of the same style of route at both places.
Personally, I am a fan on the new(4.5 hr drive). It was where i really learned to climb and its where i keep going back. It's hard to justify going to the red(8.5 hr drive) when the drive is so much longer and the climbing is so similar.
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granite_grrl
Apr 6, 2010, 10:18 PM
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While both areas both have good sport and trad lines but IMO the New has better trad and the Red has better sport (YMMV).
The other difference is the weather. I think the New tends to stay a touch cooler than the Red. The Red also has more dry options if it's raining.
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hyhuu
Apr 6, 2010, 10:29 PM
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Both places have excellent trad climbing. However, the Red does have more wide cracks, including OW.
For sport climbing, I would say I'd like the New better. The Red has a lot of jug haul while the New is more technical. But if you climb 5.14s, I believe the Red has more to offer.
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guangzhou
Apr 7, 2010, 5:30 AM
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Both are excellent on both the trad and sport front.
Obed is good too. DOn't hear much about it on this site.
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justroberto
Apr 8, 2010, 7:26 AM
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hincking wrote: jst got back from the red how do u think the new compares....which do u think is better? iive heard the new offers a lot more trad how true is this
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camhead
Apr 8, 2010, 11:44 AM
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I'm repeating some stuff that has already been said, but here goes:
NRG:
More rain, fewer dry rock options, more breezy crags, probably fewer access issues, more interesting social/cultural life around it, better restaurants, bolts tend to be a bit more spaced apart, harder rock, requires more well-rounded climbing skills, nicer crack lines, easier to find solitude, more hoards of complete newbs that funnel in from the East Coast to do Easily Flaky, guidebook tends to have more pictures of super sexy guys climbing roof cracks at the Meadow.
RRG
Less rain, more rainy day options, more concentrated climbing community, fewer things to do on rest days, easier 5.12s to tick, easier transition from the gym, Miguel's, tend to be more crowds, slightly warmer, more hoards of meathead bros who funnel in from Chicago and Ohio to do Ro Shampo.
Overall, if I had to pick one, I would– wait, I don't have to pick one. I live equidistant from both.
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tripperjm
Apr 8, 2010, 1:21 PM
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camhead wrote: I'm repeating some stuff that has already been said, but here goes: NRG: More rain, fewer dry rock options, more breezy crags, probably fewer access issues, more interesting social/cultural life around it, better restaurants, bolts tend to be a bit more spaced apart, harder rock, requires more well-rounded climbing skills, nicer crack lines, easier to find solitude, more hoards of complete newbs that funnel in from the East Coast to do Easily Flaky, guidebook tends to have more pictures of super sexy guys climbing roof cracks at the Meadow. RRG Less rain, more rainy day options, more concentrated climbing community, fewer things to do on rest days, easier 5.12s to tick, easier transition from the gym, Miguel's, tend to be more crowds, slightly warmer, more hoards of meathead bros who funnel in from Chicago and Ohio to do Ro Shampo. Overall, if I had to pick one, I would– wait, I don't have to pick one. I live equidistant from both.
You just can't help yourself can you clamhed? You just have to spray. You make me sick.
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jrathfon
Apr 8, 2010, 3:01 PM
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oh! the trad at the red is horrible, never go there! especially rock wars. there are only like 12 good lines anyways. the rock is sandy and cams pop out, seriously some uber-choss.
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camhead
Apr 8, 2010, 3:12 PM
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tripperjm wrote: camhead wrote: I'm repeating some stuff that has already been said, but here goes: NRG: More rain, fewer dry rock options, more breezy crags, probably fewer access issues, more interesting social/cultural life around it, better restaurants, bolts tend to be a bit more spaced apart, harder rock, requires more well-rounded climbing skills, nicer crack lines, easier to find solitude, more hoards of complete newbs that funnel in from the East Coast to do Easily Flaky, guidebook tends to have more pictures of super sexy guys climbing roof cracks at the Meadow. RRG Less rain, more rainy day options, more concentrated climbing community, fewer things to do on rest days, easier 5.12s to tick, easier transition from the gym, Miguel's, tend to be more crowds, slightly warmer, more hoards of meathead bros who funnel in from Chicago and Ohio to do Ro Shampo. Overall, if I had to pick one, I would– wait, I don't have to pick one. I live equidistant from both. You just can't help yourself can you clamhed? You just have to spray. You make me sick.
what are you talking about?
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abe_ascends
Apr 8, 2010, 3:36 PM
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Carnage wrote: They are both amazing. The red is known for its overhanging jug hall and pocketed routes, and thats what you get there...
Where is this Hall of Jugs?
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justroberto
Apr 8, 2010, 5:28 PM
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You left out a couple of things:
NRG:
Better pizza joint
RRG:
More douchebags raving about how much they love Ale 8-one.
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pdpcardsfan
Apr 8, 2010, 5:47 PM
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you are right on the mark. EVERYONE is drinking Ale-8's. and id rather have burnt frozen pizza than miguels!
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johnwesely
Apr 8, 2010, 6:17 PM
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justroberto wrote: RRG: More douchebags raving about how much they love Ale 8-one.
I have a shipment on the way right now.
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caughtinside
Apr 8, 2010, 6:25 PM
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pdpcardsfan wrote: you are right on the mark. EVERYONE is drinking Ale-8's. and id rather have burnt frozen pizza than miguels!
you guys are rough. That Ale 8 is great, and miguels pizza is pretty good for the price.
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granite_grrl
Apr 8, 2010, 6:29 PM
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Starting to become a real hate thread!
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dreday3000
Apr 8, 2010, 6:30 PM
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camhead wrote: I'm repeating some stuff that has already been said, but here goes: NRG: More rain, fewer dry rock options, more breezy crags, probably fewer access issues, more interesting social/cultural life around it, better restaurants, bolts tend to be a bit more spaced apart, harder rock, requires more well-rounded climbing skills, nicer crack lines, easier to find solitude, more hoards of complete newbs that funnel in from the East Coast to do Easily Flaky, guidebook tends to have more pictures of super sexy guys climbing roof cracks at the Meadow. RRG Less rain, more rainy day options, more concentrated climbing community, fewer things to do on rest days, easier 5.12s to tick, easier transition from the gym, Miguel's, tend to be more crowds, slightly warmer, more hoards of meathead bros who funnel in from Chicago and Ohio to do Ro Shampo. Overall, if I had to pick one, I would– wait, I don't have to pick one. I live equidistant from both.
Perfect encapsulation.
Aside from the part about not having to pick on - I live in DC ergo, I've picked the New by default.
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camhead
Apr 8, 2010, 8:15 PM
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justroberto wrote: You left out a couple of things: NRG: Better pizza joint RRG: More douchebags raving about how much they love Ale 8-one.
word.
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mr.tastycakes
Apr 8, 2010, 9:35 PM
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caughtinside wrote: you guys are rough. That Ale 8 is great
When you cut it with bourbon. I've never seen so many adults hanging around drinking soda in my life. You're climbers, goddamnit. You shouldn't be wasting calories on something that doesn't get you drunk!
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karmiclimber
Apr 9, 2010, 1:52 PM
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Thats not spray. If you have been to either the new or the red you would know that everything he wrote is FACT.
I do love easy flaky btw.
And WHAT is up with the Ale 8 love? Miguel's is like one big outdoor frat party in my book. I still stay there because I don't know where else to camp. Both places have awesome climbing, but NRG gets my love vote.
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MS1
Apr 9, 2010, 3:01 PM
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karmiclimber wrote: Thats not spray. If you have been to either the new or the red you would know that everything he wrote is FACT. I do love easy flaky btw. And WHAT is up with the Ale 8 love? Miguel's is like one big outdoor frat party in my book. I still stay there because I don't know where else to camp. Both places have awesome climbing, but NRG gets my love vote.
Have you tried Lagos Linda? It's pretty close to the PMRP, and much quieter than Miguel's. There are also a few campgrounds down the road from Muir that might be worthwhile.
You are just wrong about Ale 8 however. That stuff is the shizz.
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johnwesely
Apr 9, 2010, 3:38 PM
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karmiclimber wrote: And WHAT is up with the Ale 8 love? Miguel's is like one big outdoor frat party in my book.
I actually enjoy all the spray and grandstanding at Miguel's. I find it endearing.
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jpetsch123
Apr 9, 2010, 3:55 PM
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guangzhou wrote: Obed is good too. Don't hear much about it on this site.
I've heard a lot of people say stuff like this and here's my opinion. I grew up in Knoxville and learned to climb at Obed. It isn't comparable with the Red or New. I don't even think the Obed's that good at all. I wouldn't drive more than 2 hours to get there. It's overrated, in my perspective.
Then again, it's all personal opinion, right?
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karmiclimber
Apr 9, 2010, 9:56 PM
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johnwesely wrote: karmiclimber wrote: And WHAT is up with the Ale 8 love? Miguel's is like one big outdoor frat party in my book. I actually enjoy all the spray and grandstanding at Miguel's. I find it endearing.
Its all fun and games until you are exhausted in your tent TRYING to fall asleep...and you keep hearing: "Hey Dude, do you want another BEEEEEEER?" "Bwahahahaha. Am I bro? Beer me that BEEEEER. After the way I sent today I deserve a fountain of BEER." "mumble mumble TITS." "mumble mumble BRO!" Its so annoying.
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