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blueeyedclimber
Feb 2, 2011, 4:37 PM
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Being somewhat bored and somewhat anxious for spring to come, I'm am piggy-backing on enigma's favorite multipitch thread. We keep getting snowstorm after snowstorm and wonder if it will be June before it all melts.
What I want to know is what are you favorite climbs (I'm mainly interested in multipitch, but if you want to throw your silly little sport climbs in, then go for it) that you haven't done yet.
I am not merely talking about your goals for the season, but climbs that you have built up so much in your mind, have imagined yourself doing them and if you ever did, you would die a happy man/women. These climbs you know so well, it's almost as if you have already done them. These are the climbs that are on the fringe of your ability (most likely) but are still realistic. But for them to go, everything has to be perfect. You need the right partner. You need to be climbing strong. Your confidence needs to be up. And the stars need to be aligned.
Most of the ones on my list, I have stood at the bottom and looked up and said, "Next time." or "Next season." Well, these climbs, I don't want to be saying "next anything" anymore. Each of these climbs that are on my list are among the top climbs in their region, if not the country:
1. The Grand Wall (11a), Squamish. Out of my list this is the only one I have actually been on. The reason I am including it is because I did not finish but still list it among the best climbs I have ever "done."
2. VMC direct direct(10d), Cannon cliff, NH. Many climbers from the northeast list this as their favorite climb they have ever done. It's only a matter of time before I get on it.
3. The Prow (11d), Cathedral Ledge, NH. I hear this one is sustained and hard. But, it is also protected very well. I should just get on it.
4. Yellow Wall (11c), The Gunks, NY. It is described as the best route of any grade at the Gunks. That's saying quite a bit.
5. Levitation 29 (11c), Red Rocks, Nevada. I have only read about this and seen pictures, but I will do this route some time.
What are your routes that are "dream" routes, but possible, if not likely?
Josh
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TarHeelEMT
Feb 2, 2011, 5:11 PM
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Lotus Flower Tower is up there on things I'm dying to climb.
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 2, 2011, 5:13 PM
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Ouch. 1 star. I think I offended a sport climber. 
Hey, look, don't get me wrong. There are some GREAT sport routes, but when I think of lifetime goal climbs, sport routes just don't make the list for me.
Or, maybe I got one starz cuz no onez likez me 
Josh
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 2, 2011, 5:23 PM
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TarHeelEMT wrote: Lotus Flower Tower is up there on things I'm dying to climb.
Just read up on that one and it looks pretty awesome.
Josh
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majid_sabet
Feb 2, 2011, 5:35 PM
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Any thing in Trango Tower
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erisspirit
Feb 2, 2011, 5:44 PM
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I actually haven't really put a lot of thought into specific climbs that are goals to me... Mostly I think of areas that I feel are must visit locations. However, in the past year, I have been eyeing Bear Creek Spire - Sierras and East Buttress - Mt Whitney. I'm a fairly new trad leader, so I think it would be fun to work on my skills and at some point in the future go out an do those. They are pretty attainable goals... but as I said... I haven't really put a ton of thought into it.
(I have also been really wanting to do Clean and Jerk in JTree for awhile now too, but that's just a single pitch)
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swoopee
Feb 2, 2011, 6:03 PM
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I have a very long list and I am trying to climb as many of them as I can.
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cush
Feb 2, 2011, 6:09 PM
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yellow spur
yellow wall(no relation)
the mayor 5.12A at ramapo transit cliffs. yes a sport climb but still a personal goal
west face of leaning tower out in yosemite
a whole bunch of climbs in cirque of the towers and the north cascades
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areyoumydude
Feb 2, 2011, 6:36 PM
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Regular Route up NWF of Half Dome.
The Nose on El Cap
Porcelain Arete in Black Canyon
Naked Edge in Eldo
Positive Vibrations on The Incredible Hulk
to name a few.
+1 for the Grand Wall. One of my faves.
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byran
Feb 2, 2011, 6:40 PM
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Lots of stuff in the Valley: N Face of the Rostrum, Astroman, Lost Arrow Chimney, basically all the classic big walls - Salathe, Nose, Lurking Fear, Leaning Tower, The Prow, NW of Half Dome, Lost Arrow Direct, ect, ect...
There's other ones too, like Positive Vibes on the Hulk Romantic Warrior in the Needles, The Exum Ridge on the Grand. But I haven't spent nearly as much time looking up at those as I have the stuff in the Valley.
Edit: Lots of stuff in Zion too - Moonlight Butt, Prodigal Son, Touchstone Wall, Tricks, Shune's Butt...
And now I'm thinking off all the stuff in Red Rock and Moab, but I feel like my list is sufficiently long.
(This post was edited by byran on Feb 2, 2011, 6:48 PM)
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enigma
Feb 3, 2011, 7:21 AM
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byran wrote: Lots of stuff in the Valley: N Face of the Rostrum, Astroman, Lost Arrow Chimney, basically all the classic big walls - Salathe, Nose, Lurking Fear, Leaning Tower, The Prow, NW of Half Dome, Lost Arrow Direct, ect, ect... There's other ones too, like Positive Vibes on the Hulk Romantic Warrior in the Needles, The Exum Ridge on the Grand. But I haven't spent nearly as much time looking up at those as I have the stuff in the Valley. Edit: Lots of stuff in Zion too - Moonlight Butt, Prodigal Son, Touchstone Wall, Tricks, Shune's Butt... And now I'm thinking off all the stuff in Red Rock and Moab, but I feel like my list is sufficiently long.
Nice List !!!
I'll add the Split and the Sword.
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gosharks
Feb 3, 2011, 8:51 AM
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Predator (13b)
Midnight Lightning (V8)
I've been on neither, but I have seen them in person.
(This post was edited by gosharks on Feb 3, 2011, 8:52 AM)
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donald949
Feb 3, 2011, 5:48 PM
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For me there are two lists:
Major goals/Alpine climbs
Charlotte Dome. Any of the routes. Plus. I would love to spend a week exploring the rock for new routes.
Clyde Minneret.
But the more accessable routes. The ones I have the guide book for, which sits next to the bed, and I read over and over. Have studied all the online guides, down loaded all the pictures of.
White Punks on Dope. 5.9 Voodoo Dome.
Magic Dragon. 5.8 The Magician.
The thing that keeps me off those climbs is the long approach along with the need for a solid partner.
Anti Jello Crack. 5.10a. Was considered a 5.9+ back in the day. Would love to take a crack at leading this one. Heck, would love to follow the crux of this one.
Dang need to get out there on these. Anyone interested?
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olderic
Feb 3, 2011, 6:08 PM
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Interesting Josh - of the 5 routes you mentioned I have done them all EXCEPT for the one you have been on. I will warn you that I thought that the Prow was a LOT harder then the rest.
The routes I aspire too and would be barely in reach on a stars aligned day (might be too late in my life now - probably in the could have/would have/should have category) are in the alpine category - Beckey - Chouinard in the Bugs and the Walker Spur in Cham.
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colatownkid
Feb 3, 2011, 6:51 PM
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I'll play. I consider all of these actual possibilities unless otherwise noted. My ticklist before I leave the Southeast:
At Lost Wall, GA:
-Pipe Full of Fun 10a
-Persistence 11b/c
-Prevailing Winds 11b
At Shortoff, NC:
-"Built to Tilt" 5.10
At Hawksbill, NC:
-"Lost in Space" 5.10
At Laurel Knob, NC:
-"Groover" 5.8
At Steele, AL:
-Chandler Roof Crack 5.12
-Tech Noir?/Renegade Trad? (Not sure of the name, but it's a bolted .12ish that looks like it will go on sketchy gear.)
At Tennessee Wall:
-Hidden Assets 10a
-Point of Departure 10d
-Electric Rats 10c
-Golden Gloves 10a/b
-People's Express 10a/b
For the longer term/elsewhere:
Climb at Seneca Rocks, WV (just cause I haven't yet).
Colorado:
-Casual Route, the Diamond, IV 5.10
-Naked Edge, Eldo, 5.11b
-Bastille Crack, Eldo, 5.7
-Athlete's Feat, Boulder Canyon, 5.11a (technically already been on it, but want to go back and do it clean)
-Southern Arete of Painted Wall, Black Canyon, 5.10
California:
-RNWF Half Dome
-The Nose
-Snake Dike 5.7R
-Astroman 5.11c
-Freerider 5.13 (this one may not ever actually happen)
-Bachar-Yerian (also probably a pipe dream)
Nevada:
-Levitation 29 is on my list as well.
Ice:
-The Fang, Vail, WI5 (not super well-versed in ice. I'm sure there will be others as I become aware of them.)
Alpine:
-The Grand, probably the Exum Ridge.
-Wolf's Head
-Pingora
-Warbonnet
-The Incredible Hulk. Not yet sure what route... (edit: it looks like Positive Vibrations comes highly recommended.)
-Cassin Ridge, Denali V 5.8 WI4
(This post was edited by colatownkid on Feb 3, 2011, 6:52 PM)
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 3, 2011, 6:56 PM
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olderic wrote: Interesting Josh - of the 5 routes you mentioned I have done them all EXCEPT for the one you have been on. I will warn you that I thought that the Prow was a LOT harder then the rest.
Nice. I figured you had done The Prow and VMC but I didn't know about Levitation and Yellow Wall. Next time I see you I want beta  . As for The Grand Wall, you should definitely make it out there. If you feel you need a ropegun then bring Zeb, but you could probably lead a lot of it, if not all of it. You should definitely take the 5.7 pitch, though, cause Zeb might pee his pants (3 bolts in 140 feet). Next time I get on it, I need to be a little fresher than I was and work on my hand cracks a little more.
In reply to: The routes I aspire too and would be barely in reach on a stars aligned day (might be too late in my life now - probably in the could have/would have/should have category) are in the alpine category - Beckey - Chouinard in the Bugs and the Walker Spur in Cham.
I haven't had the urge to do more alpine stuff yet. Maybe some day.
Josh
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gblauer
Moderator
Feb 3, 2011, 7:14 PM
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This is not really an answer to your question...but...I would really like to do a first ascent. I may have that opportunity when I head to AZ at the end of March.
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kachoong
Feb 3, 2011, 7:42 PM
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Just curious, but how can a climb you haven't done be a favorite? Unless of course you've been on it but haven't finished it. Is that what you mean?
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 3, 2011, 7:50 PM
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kachoong wrote: Just curious, but how can a climb you haven't done be a favorite? Unless of course you've been on it but haven't finished it. Is that what you mean?
Because of the way that you have built it up in your mind. Dont' tell me that you don't have those climbs that are on your ticklist that stand FAR above the rest. Obsession may be a more appropriate word to use. These are climbs that you know more about compared to other goals because you have researched them, maybe collected beta, maybe made special equipment purchases, or arranged vacations around.
Josh
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cracklover
Feb 3, 2011, 7:54 PM
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1) - The Nose on El Cap
2) - Wunsch's Dihedral on Cynical Pinnacle
3) - The Casual Route on the Diamond
4) - Fat City Direct in The Gunks
5) - The Naked Edge in Eldo (been on it, but didn't get it all clean)
#1) I will probably never do. But hope springs eternal.
GO
(This post was edited by cracklover on Feb 3, 2011, 8:07 PM)
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caughtinside
Feb 3, 2011, 7:55 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: kachoong wrote: Just curious, but how can a climb you haven't done be a favorite? Unless of course you've been on it but haven't finished it. Is that what you mean? Because of the way that you have built it up in your mind. Dont' tell me that you don't have those climbs that are on your ticklist that stand FAR above the rest. Obsession may be a more appropriate word to use. These are climbs that you know more about compared to other goals because you have researched them, maybe collected beta, maybe made special equipment purchases, or arranged vacations around. Josh
I see, so you're after the climbs that are shrouded in lore, with a sheen of mystique?
I'm on a small personal mission to do all the Dan O MOS solos. At least the ones in CA.
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cracklover
Feb 3, 2011, 8:04 PM
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caughtinside wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: kachoong wrote: Just curious, but how can a climb you haven't done be a favorite? Unless of course you've been on it but haven't finished it. Is that what you mean? Because of the way that you have built it up in your mind. Dont' tell me that you don't have those climbs that are on your ticklist that stand FAR above the rest. Obsession may be a more appropriate word to use. These are climbs that you know more about compared to other goals because you have researched them, maybe collected beta, maybe made special equipment purchases, or arranged vacations around. Josh I see, so you're after the climbs that are shrouded in lore, with a sheen of mystique? I'm on a small personal mission to do all the Dan O MOS solos. At least the ones in CA.
That's an interesting idea. I think if I could do all the climbs The Gambler soloed, I'd be pretty psyched.
GO
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caughtinside
Feb 3, 2011, 8:08 PM
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cracklover wrote: caughtinside wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: kachoong wrote: Just curious, but how can a climb you haven't done be a favorite? Unless of course you've been on it but haven't finished it. Is that what you mean? Because of the way that you have built it up in your mind. Dont' tell me that you don't have those climbs that are on your ticklist that stand FAR above the rest. Obsession may be a more appropriate word to use. These are climbs that you know more about compared to other goals because you have researched them, maybe collected beta, maybe made special equipment purchases, or arranged vacations around. Josh I see, so you're after the climbs that are shrouded in lore, with a sheen of mystique? I'm on a small personal mission to do all the Dan O MOS solos. At least the ones in CA. That's an interesting idea. I think if I could do all the climbs The Gambler soloed, I'd be pretty psyched. GO
It's a different headspace to be on a route, and to think of someone soloing it. Adds a little something. I know I thought about bachar while I was hanging on Butterballs. It's another element where you can actually watch footage of the solo.
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 3, 2011, 8:10 PM
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cracklover wrote: 1) - The Nose on El Cap 2) - Wunsch's Dihedral on Cynical Pinnacle 3) - The Casual Route on the Diamond 4) - Fat City Direct in The Gunks 5) - The Naked Edge in Eldo (been on it, but didn't get it all clean) #1) I will probably never do. But hope springs eternal. GO
That's a nice list as well. I've done your #4 and Your #5 I am thinking of adding.
I though about the Nose, but that is more way in the future (if ever). Especially since I have done almost no aid. I wanted to focus on routes that I think I will probably get on in the next few years. Whether I send or not is another story.
Josh
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