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chossmonkey
Dec 20, 2011, 1:56 AM
Post #86751 of 105309
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must
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chossmonkey
Dec 20, 2011, 1:57 AM
Post #86752 of 105309
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plant
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chossmonkey
Dec 20, 2011, 1:57 AM
Post #86753 of 105309
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snargs
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chossmonkey
Dec 20, 2011, 1:57 AM
Post #86754 of 105309
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deep
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chossmonkey
Dec 20, 2011, 1:57 AM
Post #86755 of 105309
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enoiugh
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chossmonkey
Dec 20, 2011, 1:58 AM
Post #86756 of 105309
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in solid mud
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snoopy138
Dec 20, 2011, 2:07 AM
Post #86757 of 105309
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chossmonkey wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: Days of Ice: 11 Days since last collapsing pillar: 4 Days of Ice for PG: 5? We finally got out 1st day in on Sat. There really wasn't much ice, but I got to break icicles off and a couple of holds had ice on them improving the handling so I'm calling it. We got some of those ice holdz. So I did a bit of that yesterday. http://www.youtube.com/...1wwv2q0LIu1VRuiIx9WX
what kind of lifespan do those things have?
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lena_chita
Moderator
Dec 20, 2011, 2:37 AM
Post #86758 of 105309
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camhead wrote: granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: drivel wrote: meatbomz wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: hey heds- nice christmas card. ours should be on the way I liked the Clamheds card. Particularly the part where a couple of academics can't muster enough of the english language to spelt awl teh werds rite. Dude, the cat's name is spelled wrong on purpose. if it was spelled correctly anywhere on teh card, that is mr. hed's doing. I getz no card? No Fiistie, Feisty, of Fiesty? I hurtz! Oh SNAP! We haven't gotten ours either (assuming it's coming)....but the guards at Erie have probably held it up. Shit, maybe I shouldn't have stashed all that counterfeit maple syrup in the envelope.
Erie guards took all maple syrup, but Jeff and I had chai after dinner, and enjoyed it, too.
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snoopy138
Dec 20, 2011, 2:42 AM
Post #86759 of 105309
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caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: weather is going to suk this weke end in josh for teh annual nice group meetup. teh double asiant is bringing together nice group and teh splinter fakshun. Splinter fakshin is climbing again? Double Asiant off injured lizt? We are getting ready for the annual HoliDave party... this year's theme is Feliz NaviDave. teh splinter fakshun bailed owt, teh asiant is still injured. I did not zend teh Weigh of Life. weather sukt. Dang, what is wrong with teh dubble? I take it you just put one go into WOL? Couldn't talk anyone into hanging the draws so you could glory send? well, this guy who was out there with us tried to zend it on saturday; he took about an hour and a half, did not zend, and in fact did not get to the ankers. at that point it was almost 4:30, cold, and rainy. so we left some fixed drawz up their overnight. I convinced somebody to go out there yesterday, but it turns out that is not a gud rowt to get on cold. we got the drawz off and left the area. LOL! An hour and a half and didn't get to the anchors? The route is 45 feet long! Reminds me of the top of pitch 2 of the Don Juan. Will climbs up to me, we are both just nightmare pumped. We look up at the next pitch. Looks hard. Shakes his head slowly side to side. "Flat... out... not good enough."
oh, yeah, got on that bolted route to the right of Norwegian Wood on TR ... that crux section is way hard. figured out beta, could potentially lead it ... but it's a bunch of low percentage moves right in a row at bolts 2 and 3.
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camhead
Dec 20, 2011, 2:43 AM
Post #86760 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: drivel wrote: meatbomz wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: hey heds- nice christmas card. ours should be on the way I liked the Clamheds card. Particularly the part where a couple of academics can't muster enough of the english language to spelt awl teh werds rite. Dude, the cat's name is spelled wrong on purpose. if it was spelled correctly anywhere on teh card, that is mr. hed's doing. I getz no card? No Fiistie, Feisty, of Fiesty? I hurtz! Oh SNAP! We haven't gotten ours either (assuming it's coming)....but the guards at Erie have probably held it up. Shit, maybe I shouldn't have stashed all that counterfeit maple syrup in the envelope. Erie guards took all maple syrup, but Jeff and I had chai after dinner, and enjoyed it, too.
Oh good, glad you got it!
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camhead
Dec 20, 2011, 2:45 AM
Post #86761 of 105309
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Mo!
My mom informs me that your Maple Liqueur that I left at their house is awesome in eggnog.
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chossmonkey
Dec 20, 2011, 2:47 AM
Post #86762 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: chossmonkey wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: Days of Ice: 11 Days since last collapsing pillar: 4 Days of Ice for PG: 5? We finally got out 1st day in on Sat. There really wasn't much ice, but I got to break icicles off and a couple of holds had ice on them improving the handling so I'm calling it. We got some of those ice holdz. So I did a bit of that yesterday. http://www.youtube.com/...1wwv2q0LIu1VRuiIx9WXwhat kind of lifespan do those things have?
Longer than you would think but not super. They are two layers. the shell takes a beating but then the inner part actually holds the pick
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climbingtrash
Dec 20, 2011, 4:51 AM
Post #86763 of 105309
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caughtinside wrote: tripperjm wrote: snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: weather is going to suk this weke end in josh for teh annual nice group meetup. teh double asiant is bringing together nice group and teh splinter fakshun. Splinter fakshin is climbing again? Double Asiant off injured lizt? We are getting ready for the annual HoliDave party... this year's theme is Feliz NaviDave. teh splinter fakshun bailed owt, teh asiant is still injured. I did not zend teh Weigh of Life. weather sukt. Huh..... Wether wus just fine where we were. A little brezzy on sat, long pants and tee shirts, but on sunday it wus plenty warm and know wind, shorts and tanks... Course we wore sweatshirts between runs. Sent a few things I had never been on before. Awl in awl, perfect climbing conditions, a great climbing weekend. Ewe noes... this sounds a lot like sekrit radness!! 
He must have been in Ewe-tah.
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climbingtrash
Dec 20, 2011, 4:58 AM
Post #86764 of 105309
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camhead wrote: Mo! My mom informs me that your Maple Liqueur that I left at their house is awesome in eggnog.
I shore hope teh bishop doesn't find owt.
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caughtinside
Dec 20, 2011, 5:40 AM
Post #86765 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: weather is going to suk this weke end in josh for teh annual nice group meetup. teh double asiant is bringing together nice group and teh splinter fakshun. Splinter fakshin is climbing again? Double Asiant off injured lizt? We are getting ready for the annual HoliDave party... this year's theme is Feliz NaviDave. teh splinter fakshun bailed owt, teh asiant is still injured. I did not zend teh Weigh of Life. weather sukt. Dang, what is wrong with teh dubble? I take it you just put one go into WOL? Couldn't talk anyone into hanging the draws so you could glory send? well, this guy who was out there with us tried to zend it on saturday; he took about an hour and a half, did not zend, and in fact did not get to the ankers. at that point it was almost 4:30, cold, and rainy. so we left some fixed drawz up their overnight. I convinced somebody to go out there yesterday, but it turns out that is not a gud rowt to get on cold. we got the drawz off and left the area. LOL! An hour and a half and didn't get to the anchors? The route is 45 feet long! Reminds me of the top of pitch 2 of the Don Juan. Will climbs up to me, we are both just nightmare pumped. We look up at the next pitch. Looks hard. Shakes his head slowly side to side. "Flat... out... not good enough." oh, yeah, got on that bolted route to the right of Norwegian Wood on TR ... that crux section is way hard. figured out beta, could potentially lead it ... but it's a bunch of low percentage moves right in a row at bolts 2 and 3.
The Joyride... I got the b2 crux first try, but the b3 crux took 4 or 5 tries. Funny, because Sooze did it opposite, low crux was way hard for her, but she got the b3 crux first try.
I think my beta for the b3 crux is good. You reach up off the rail to those two shitty holds. The left hold, the bigger one, you crimp with your thumb and then stack your fingers on top. Crimp the crap right with right hand. Lean way left, highstep right then commit and rock hard onto the right foot.
I couldn't touch the move until I hit the left hold with the thumb, then it went down and felt pretty good. Still hard, but very doable.
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caughtinside
Dec 20, 2011, 5:44 PM
Post #86766 of 105309
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Hey camhead,
I saw your 13 crack list on the project. Regarding trout creek, I don't think any have been established yet. There is one project listed which as of 08 or 09 hadn't been sent that reportedly Tommy Caldwell tried, got close to sending, said was 13, then left.
There are some good vids of Trout here, Oreganic 1 and 2 if you haven't seen them
http://vimeo.com/user5362152
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camhead
Dec 20, 2011, 6:10 PM
Post #86767 of 105309
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caughtinside wrote: Hey camhead, I saw your 13 crack list on the project. Regarding trout creek, I don't think any have been established yet. There is one project listed which as of 08 or 09 hadn't been sent that reportedly Tommy Caldwell tried, got close to sending, said was 13, then left. There are some good vids of Trout here, Oreganic 1 and 2 if you haven't seen them http://vimeo.com/user5362152
Yeah, I did a quick search on the prodge and saw no 13s at Trout.
Spending a lot of time on the interwebs today. Got shutdown on our plan to climb tomorrow and the day after in Chattaradiego by rain. Not a huge deal, we'll just extend our trip a couple days into January. But for now I'm sitting around with my thumb up my ass and fantasizing about climbing on the internet, which is what I do bestest.
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caughtinside
Dec 20, 2011, 11:15 PM
Post #86768 of 105309
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Greetings Heds and Feelgoods,
Thanks for the cards, just got them (although I don't think I checked mail yesterday). Enjoyed them a good deal and got a good laff out of the loyerette. Louie also was pleased to see he was acknowledged as Mayor of the Leap.
cheers and merry Christmas,
the Insides.
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snoopy138
Dec 20, 2011, 11:31 PM
Post #86769 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: weather is going to suk this weke end in josh for teh annual nice group meetup. teh double asiant is bringing together nice group and teh splinter fakshun. Splinter fakshin is climbing again? Double Asiant off injured lizt? We are getting ready for the annual HoliDave party... this year's theme is Feliz NaviDave. teh splinter fakshun bailed owt, teh asiant is still injured. I did not zend teh Weigh of Life. weather sukt. Dang, what is wrong with teh dubble? I take it you just put one go into WOL? Couldn't talk anyone into hanging the draws so you could glory send? well, this guy who was out there with us tried to zend it on saturday; he took about an hour and a half, did not zend, and in fact did not get to the ankers. at that point it was almost 4:30, cold, and rainy. so we left some fixed drawz up their overnight. I convinced somebody to go out there yesterday, but it turns out that is not a gud rowt to get on cold. we got the drawz off and left the area. LOL! An hour and a half and didn't get to the anchors? The route is 45 feet long! Reminds me of the top of pitch 2 of the Don Juan. Will climbs up to me, we are both just nightmare pumped. We look up at the next pitch. Looks hard. Shakes his head slowly side to side. "Flat... out... not good enough." oh, yeah, got on that bolted route to the right of Norwegian Wood on TR ... that crux section is way hard. figured out beta, could potentially lead it ... but it's a bunch of low percentage moves right in a row at bolts 2 and 3. The Joyride... I got the b2 crux first try, but the b3 crux took 4 or 5 tries. Funny, because Sooze did it opposite, low crux was way hard for her, but she got the b3 crux first try. I think my beta for the b3 crux is good. You reach up off the rail to those two shitty holds. The left hold, the bigger one, you crimp with your thumb and then stack your fingers on top. Crimp the crap right with right hand. Lean way left, highstep right then commit and rock hard onto the right foot. I couldn't touch the move until I hit the left hold with the thumb, then it went down and felt pretty good. Still hard, but very doable.
so, looked that up on teh proj today ... seems smvrf was full of liez that day. he called it 10d, I just figured it was another gaines snadbag. 11c! that fukker.
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caughtinside
Dec 21, 2011, 12:42 AM
Post #86770 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: weather is going to suk this weke end in josh for teh annual nice group meetup. teh double asiant is bringing together nice group and teh splinter fakshun. Splinter fakshin is climbing again? Double Asiant off injured lizt? We are getting ready for the annual HoliDave party... this year's theme is Feliz NaviDave. teh splinter fakshun bailed owt, teh asiant is still injured. I did not zend teh Weigh of Life. weather sukt. Dang, what is wrong with teh dubble? I take it you just put one go into WOL? Couldn't talk anyone into hanging the draws so you could glory send? well, this guy who was out there with us tried to zend it on saturday; he took about an hour and a half, did not zend, and in fact did not get to the ankers. at that point it was almost 4:30, cold, and rainy. so we left some fixed drawz up their overnight. I convinced somebody to go out there yesterday, but it turns out that is not a gud rowt to get on cold. we got the drawz off and left the area. LOL! An hour and a half and didn't get to the anchors? The route is 45 feet long! Reminds me of the top of pitch 2 of the Don Juan. Will climbs up to me, we are both just nightmare pumped. We look up at the next pitch. Looks hard. Shakes his head slowly side to side. "Flat... out... not good enough." oh, yeah, got on that bolted route to the right of Norwegian Wood on TR ... that crux section is way hard. figured out beta, could potentially lead it ... but it's a bunch of low percentage moves right in a row at bolts 2 and 3. The Joyride... I got the b2 crux first try, but the b3 crux took 4 or 5 tries. Funny, because Sooze did it opposite, low crux was way hard for her, but she got the b3 crux first try. I think my beta for the b3 crux is good. You reach up off the rail to those two shitty holds. The left hold, the bigger one, you crimp with your thumb and then stack your fingers on top. Crimp the crap right with right hand. Lean way left, highstep right then commit and rock hard onto the right foot. I couldn't touch the move until I hit the left hold with the thumb, then it went down and felt pretty good. Still hard, but very doable. so, looked that up on teh proj today ... seems smvrf was full of liez that day. he called it 10d, I just figured it was another gaines snadbag. 11c! that fukker.
LOL! Now that is funny! I think we got the true grade when we did it.
Although I think .11c may even be a bit on the heavy side of the grade for Joyride, I don't think it would be too difficult to redpoint. Nearly impossible to compare to WOL though, neat that both those two climbs are just 50 feet apart. thin tech classic josh vs jug thugging on the steeps, same grade.
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snoopy138
Dec 21, 2011, 9:17 PM
Post #86771 of 105309
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Well, not very entuhtainzing today in hear.
My klyming planz for teh weke end are fairly minimal, potentially nonexistent. Hoping blutarski does not have to werk on friday so I can haz a partner for malibu. teh brit is still worthless and teh asiant is still injured. dad and sister arrive friday night/saturday morning.
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chossmonkey
Dec 21, 2011, 11:32 PM
Post #86772 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: Well, not very entuhtainzing today in hear. My klyming planz for teh weke end are fairly minimal, potentially nonexistent. Hoping blutarski does not have to werk on friday so I can haz a partner for malibu. teh brit is still worthless and teh asiant is still injured. dad and sister arrive friday night/saturday morning.
The nerve of all of them!
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chossmonkey
Dec 21, 2011, 11:34 PM
Post #86773 of 105309
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So knowbody wunts to come watch me make a fool of myself in the land of milk and honey?
We still have the couch bed open. Or room on the floor.
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chossmonkey
Dec 21, 2011, 11:39 PM
Post #86774 of 105309
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woo?
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chossmonkey
Dec 21, 2011, 11:39 PM
Post #86775 of 105309
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ewe got the wrong guy man
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