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tradmanclimbs
Jun 20, 2003, 7:49 PM
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What are the worst or perhaps best sandbags at your local area :lol:
This is my list. #1 biggest sandbag I can think of is Clutch and cruise in the lower beer walls Daks. It is short and rated 5.8 but everybody That I have talked to that has climbed it confirmed it at 10b or 5.8 my azz :roll: the next one that comes to mind is Partition(Daks) that I felt was solid 5.9 rather than the 8 it is rated in the book but haven't been on it in a few years so could be wrong on that one. Again, in the daks :lol: first pitch of Overture @ 9+ really 10d pg13 3rd pitch feels like 9 to me but is rated 8 and last but not least the first pitch of gamesmanship which many feel is a solid 9 rather than the 8 it gets in the book 8)
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tripperjm
Jun 20, 2003, 7:58 PM
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Expresso 5.9+ at New Jack, I've heard it called 10+
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davidji
Jun 20, 2003, 8:19 PM
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In reply to: What are the worst or perhaps best sandbags at your local area
Ignoring eroded local climbs, I'll go with what I said in a similar thread a few weeks ago.
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climbingbum
Jun 20, 2003, 8:38 PM
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East Ridge Mt. Edith Cavell 5.3
-Canadian Rockies
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vtposer
Jun 20, 2003, 9:59 PM
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Dude,
Clutch and cruise is way sandbagged! Even though the "5.8" section isnt that long its a total pumpfest. I havent done Partition yet but Ive also heard its pretty stout. Gamesmanship is another great climb. Pure jamming satisfaction. Im from VT and climb at the Dacks all the time. I think its great climbing at the Dacks cause everywere else I climb I feel like its easier, accept maybe the Gunks. :lol:
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pt
Jun 20, 2003, 10:26 PM
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The Straight Edge at Vedauwoo. Rated 5.9
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climbingbums
Jan 25, 2006, 10:01 PM
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a lot of stuff around prescott, i believe seige (5.10b) is heinous for the grade. it would be heinous for 5.11.
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sevrdhed
Jan 25, 2006, 10:13 PM
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The black problem in the gym. It's rated V5 but its at least V7.
Steve
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islandclimber
Jan 25, 2006, 10:34 PM
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The Titon crack at orient bay in norhtern ontario. 5.9+, but word is has not seen a second ascent and has several 5.11 moves in it
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craftedpacket
Jan 25, 2006, 10:38 PM
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Black problems suck...almost as bad as the pink ones
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jeremy11
Jan 25, 2006, 11:40 PM
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the Adirondack's Giant Mountain Eagle Slide. The book said "class 3 classic friction scramble." It definitely felt like class 5 in a few sections, and after doing Chapel Pond Slab Regular Route with some easy class 5 slab and also doing Colden's trapdike (textbook class 3 slide with some class 4) it really seems eagle slide had some class 5, but I think I might have taken some non mandatory steeper parts just for kicks.... :D :shock:
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vanclimber
Jan 25, 2006, 11:43 PM
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In reply to: The black problem in the gym. It's rated V5 but its at least V7. Steve
In my gym there is currently a v4 that should be at least v8.
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rockguide
Jan 26, 2006, 12:43 AM
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In reply to: The black problem in the gym. It's rated V5 but its at least V7. Steve
I did the black problem at my gym and I thought it was V3. I don't know how you got V5.
:lol:
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jonqdoe
Jan 26, 2006, 6:37 AM
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Bucket Brigade, Devil's Lake 5.6.
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cosmiccragsman
Jan 26, 2006, 7:03 AM
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Captain Kronos on the Brown Wall in the Real Hidden Valley in JT.
Cosmiccragsman
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rockrat511
Jan 26, 2006, 7:15 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: What are the worst or perhaps best sandbags at your local area I've seen some heinous sandbags on the local soft sandstone (Mt Diablo, and Castle Rock State Park), caused by the rock eroding and the climbs getting much harder. Ignoring eroded local climbs, I'll go with what I said in a similar thread a few weeks ago.
No such thing as a sandbag at Castle Rock. Those grades are spot on, if not a bit on the soft side! :wink:
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vegastradguy
Jan 26, 2006, 7:20 AM
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how about the 2nd pitch of Duchess at jtree? supposedly 5.6, but its more like a 5.9 squeeze chimney.... :roll:
Nadia's Nine is a famous sandbag at Red Rock- meant to be .9, but its solid .10 at the crux.
I also think Lucky Nuts out at RR is a bit sandbagged. .9 in the book, it has the feel of solid .10....
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sustainedclimber
Jan 26, 2006, 8:04 AM
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In reply to: and last but not least the first pitch of gamesmanship which many feel is a solid 9 rather than the 8 it gets in the book 8)
Ok, I'm a solid 8 leader anywhere but the Daks where an 8 is go or no go depending on the day. That is because nearly everything in the Daks is sandbagged. I love climbing there because I know that when I go somewhere else I'll be that much better.
In reference to the first pitch of Gamesmanship specifically, I led the first pitch but it took me about an hour and a half, at which point my partner and I had to bail off the first anchor. Based on the time that pitch took we weren't going to be able to finish. I'm glad to see that someone else also thought it was harder than an 8.
To add another Daks sandbag, how about Arachnid Traction at Creature Wall. No way in hell that top half is 5.8.
Onwards and Upwards!
-Josh
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bluesmusic
Jan 26, 2006, 11:08 AM
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Lea's Problem in Horse Pens 40 is rated a V5 (yeah i know this the other way around form a sandbag) but i'd give it a V3.
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curtis_g
Jan 27, 2006, 1:21 AM
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In reply to: Bucket Brigade, Devil's Lake 5.6.
don't know the climb spicifically but I know devil's lake and it is .1 to .2 harder than it is rated, or at least a lot of it is because all of the ratings have been passed down through the various guidebooks and were rated very old school without taking the extremely slick rock into account.
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salamanizer
Jan 27, 2006, 1:48 AM
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I thought Braille Book in the Valley was a bit on the harsh side....felt .10 to me. Eior's Enigma at the Leap is a bit stiff for .9 too, could easily be .10+, same with vanishing point.
On another note....nothing at Diablo is sandbagged. If anything they're a little soft. The sand just acts like ball berings under your feet.
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gunksgoer
Jan 27, 2006, 1:48 AM
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In reply to: Ok, I'm a solid 8 leader anywhere but the Daks where an 8 is go or no go depending on the day. That is because nearly everything in the Daks is sandbagged. I love climbing there because I know that when I go somewhere else I'll be that much better. To add another Daks sandbag, how about Arachnid Traction at Creature Wall. No way in hell that top half is 5.8. Onwards and Upwards! -Josh
Agreed, the dacks have some pretty sandbagged stuff. Funny you mentioned aracnid traction, i just saw a photo of that in the worst pics of rc.com thread and commented on how much of a sandbag is. The top is a 5.9 left leaning handcrack with very little for feet on the face, and all this is after almost 100 feet of actual 5.8.
Also, just about every easy route at the gunks is kinda on the sandbagged side. Ive put less effort into 9s in other places than 7s at the gunks. Actually im not sure real 5.7 exists at the gunks. When I started leading there i pretty much skipped 5.7, since they were just as hard as the 8s for me. Dont get me wrong though, I love gunks ratings :D
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crackmd
Jan 27, 2006, 2:27 AM
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Bare Metal Teen at the RRG. This route was far and away more difficult (for me) than any other route of the 12a grade I did there. Seems like every knows and is OK with this route being a sandbag. Classic RRG route though!
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jacobbelsher
Jan 27, 2006, 3:50 AM
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The "4th class" chimmney leading up to the bridge mountain arch on bridge mountain, Zion. It's 40 verticle feet of christ's sake, and too wide to stem at the bottom.
also
the first pitch of Saber on upper castle rock, leavenworth washington. It is supposedly 5.5
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