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foilball
Feb 14, 2005, 8:20 PM
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Is there a way to back out of a sport route safely before getting to the shuts, If you got on a route, and couldn't finish it. I've downclimbied from 3 bolts and it sucked, is there a way to back out without leaving a draw and without downclimbing? Could i buy some kind of ring to put into the bolt and lower off of that and leave a cheap peice of gear? Thanks
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trad_mike
Feb 14, 2005, 8:24 PM
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bail biner
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atpeaceinbozeman
Feb 14, 2005, 8:25 PM
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quicklink
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iamchristoph
Feb 14, 2005, 8:28 PM
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There is a good way to do it with a sling you just have to have enough rope to loop down to the ground and back.
You push the sling through the bolt hanger then loop back through itself like a girth hitch. Well I'm not explaining this very well but I think you can find it in a book called Advanced Rock Climbing By Jon Long I think. Anyway if you doo it right you can safely lower and use your rope to pull you sling down afterwords.
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jimdavis
Feb 14, 2005, 8:30 PM
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A cheap biner to bail off of, or downclimb, or fall/ unclip your way down.
Jim
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dorkmaster
Feb 14, 2005, 8:36 PM
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i agree, just use a cheap bail biner, it's safe and it's fun for the next person to get the free piece of gear :wink:
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bandycoot
Feb 14, 2005, 8:36 PM
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Bail biner, quicklinks just get in the way of the next climber who is trying to clip the bolt.
Josh
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grayhghost
Feb 14, 2005, 8:41 PM
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"There is a good way to do it with a sling you just have to have enough rope to loop down to the ground and back.
You push the sling through the bolt hanger then loop back through itself like a girth hitch. Well I'm not explaining this very well but I think you can find it in a book called Advanced Rock Climbing By Jon Long I think. Anyway if you doo it right you can safely lower and use your rope to pull you sling down afterwords."
This might just get you killed, good work iamchristoph!
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veganboyjosh
Feb 14, 2005, 8:45 PM
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In reply to: There is a good way to do it with a sling you just have to have enough rope to loop down to the ground and back. You push the sling through the bolt hanger then loop back through itself like a girth hitch. Well I'm not explaining this very well but I think you can find it in a book called Advanced Rock Climbing By Jon Long I think. Anyway if you doo it right you can safely lower and use your rope to pull you sling down afterwords.
a search for "texas rope trick" on rc.com or google should get you a thread with a pic in it that explains this.
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iamchristoph
Feb 14, 2005, 9:09 PM
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Ok I'll add a disclaimer so greyghost doesn't have to bite my head off.
If you try anything I tell you please figure out how it and try it in a safe environment first. ie, on the ground where you won't have the possibility of a deadly fall. or maybe if you can find a low bolt maybe 10 ft off the ground. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOU KILLING OR HURTING YOUR SELF.
That said I will go home and find my book and post back later.
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anykineclimb
Feb 16, 2005, 6:30 AM
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Use a bail biner.
no one likes quick links as booty :wink:
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sonso45
Feb 16, 2005, 7:30 AM
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I have used Iamcristoph's method of lowering off a sling girth hitched through the hangar a few times and haven't died yet. The next person to get to that point may have had a hard time clipping but it was unavoidable. At least from my perspective. It's the same as rapping from a sling without a ring, good enough for the person who has to but not for anyone else who follows. Good luck. M
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markc
Feb 16, 2005, 4:37 PM
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In reply to: Bail biner, quicklinks just get in the way of the next climber who is trying to clip the bolt.
Agreed.
Buy a $5 oval and lower off. Some recommend clipping the next bolt down as a back-up. By that point, I figure the bolt's already proven itself. Still, it's a cheap investment and a personal choice.
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lucas_timmer
Feb 16, 2005, 4:40 PM
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Use some very cheap bail biners or aid climb your way out
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greenmachineman7
Feb 16, 2005, 4:43 PM
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I'll second the $5 oval. makes for a great way to build up an aid rack...
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markc
Feb 16, 2005, 4:47 PM
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In reply to: I have used Iamcristoph's method of lowering off a sling girth hitched through the hangar a few times and haven't died yet. The next person to get to that point may have had a hard time clipping but it was unavoidable. At least from my perspective. It's the same as rapping from a sling without a ring, good enough for the person who has to but not for anyone else who follows. Good luck. M
There are a couple of factors for using a biner over a sling. Unless you're doing the Texas rope trick, you're going to be leaving something behind. A biner will be a lot easier for the next person to remove. A girth-hitched sling is a bigger pain. This is the same reason I don't use a quicklink: courtesy to the next climber.
I hold about the same value for an old sling as an old oval. When someone cleans your sling, they should just be throwing it in the trash. When they clean your bail biner, it's now their bail biner. Maybe I'm thinking a little greener than other folks, but I like reusable resources.
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boardline22
Feb 18, 2005, 10:36 PM
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I like to recycle
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glyrocks
Feb 18, 2005, 11:02 PM
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You don't have to girth hitch to the hanger...
It's not difficult and is definitely a safe way to bail without leaving gear, as long as you are no more than 1/3 your rope's lenght off the ground/anchor.
http://www.climbing.com/techtips/ttsport223/
You don't have to leave a bail biner on the bolt below. Sure, you should for redundancy, but if you thought the bolt was good enough to fall on, it's probably going to hold body weight. Of course, you could have been wrong about the bold holding a fall or holding body weight... Point is, you don't have to leave gear if you're not too far off the deck.
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joshklingbeil
Feb 18, 2005, 11:40 PM
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I don't think I would want to lower up to around say 25 meters off of a sling.I have seen slings burnt from pulling a rope through it one time. I would rather rappel off a sling if the bolt was good or use a bail biner if the route was hard to clean on rappel. I would maybe lower off a sling from 5 meters but why not just rap. Or just finish the rock climb. One more thing foilball you should just use two bail biners when you lower. You will be happy because you got two bolts. And the next guy will be happy because hes got two new bail biners. Is your life worth $9?
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joshklingbeil
Feb 18, 2005, 11:53 PM
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I don't think I would want to LOWER up to around say 25 meters off of a sling.I have seen slings burnt from pulling a rope through it one time. I would rather rappel off a sling if the bolt was good or use a bail biner if the route was hard to clean on rappel. I would maybe lower off a sling from 5 meters just to see how much of the sling melted but why not just rap. Or just finish the rock climb. Foilball you should just use two bail biners when you lower. You will be happy because you got two bolts. And the next guy will be happy because hes got two new bail biners. Is your life worth $9? I've never left a biner on a climb.
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jt512
Feb 19, 2005, 12:08 AM
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In reply to: I don't think I would want to LOWER up to around say 25 meters off of a sling.
There's no "I think" about it: Never lower or toprope through a sling. Yes, you can safely rappel from a sling that is in good condition, but it is bad form to leave a sling hanging on a bolt on a sport climb. Bail from a bail biner only -- not a quick link, not a sling. That's why we call them bail biners.
-Jay
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jammer
Feb 19, 2005, 12:14 AM
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Bail Biner all the way! I'd rather live to climb another day then try to get out of it as cheeply as possible. No matter what you learn, it always carries a price.
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jt512
Feb 19, 2005, 12:26 AM
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In reply to: Bail Biner all the way! I'd rather live to climb another day then try to get out of it as cheeply as possible. No matter what you learn, it always carries a price.
Bail biners are the cheapest. I've never bought one, anyway.
-Jay
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kalcario
Feb 19, 2005, 12:49 AM
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if you are close enough to the ground that you can reach the bolt you're at with a stick clip from the ground, then lower off that bolt, but first tape the gate (the one that's clipped to the bolt) open so you can push it off the hanger with the stick.
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joshklingbeil
Feb 19, 2005, 2:10 AM
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In reply to: it is bad form to leave a sling hanging on a bolt on a sport climb. -Jay |
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