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Your Worth as a Wall Climber
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snapier


Jul 12, 2002, 12:13 AM
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That was my rack that I dropped! I was wondering where that had went! Now please send it back to me at your earliest convenince!

Well one can dream, no?


natec


Jul 12, 2002, 12:15 AM
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Your Worth as a Wall Climber [In reply to]
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Hey, uh that was my rack! I dropped it right near the base of that crack, you know the one with the tree nearby. Man am I glad you found it, I was worried sick. Anyway, I'd be happy to give you a $20 reward for sending it back my way.

Hahaha, RIIIIIGHT

Edit: Damn! Snapier beat me to it!


[ This Message was edited by: natec on 2002-07-12 00:16 ]


passthepitonspete


Sep 30, 2002, 7:21 PM
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Dr. Piton's Tour of Booty

It happened on our recent ascent of Scorched Earth. I had just finished the A5 crux pitch [yikes!] when looked over to Aurora - there on the overhanging cracks was the most amazing selection of booty you have ever seen!

Cams, crabs, slings - you name it, it was hanging there. Obviously someone had retreated and downaided, but for some reason had not had anyone competent enough to "downclean".

Note: "Downcleaning" is easier said than done, and requires considerable skill.

[The reason you need to "downaid" is because the route is so overhanging, simple rappelling will leave you hanging thirty to fifty feet out from the wall at the bottom of the pitch, unable to reach your next set of rappel anchors.]

So Tom grabbed my binocs and started naming off all the gear! Yellow Alien here, purple Camalot there. Man, we were salivating.

A day later we wasted the better part of an hour as Tom did the ol' Rubber Band Man Trick, which involves swinging yours truly back and forth in ever-widening arcs perhaps eight hundred feet off the deck, and thirty feet out from the wall. Talk about breathtaking!

At any rate, my point of suspension was too low, and despite Tom's best efforts, he was unable to swing me into the crag. [You should have seen me - spinning round like a top and bouncing into the pigs - sheesh.]

The next day, I rapped down from a pitch higher, downaiding on a few fixed heads til I reached the anchor.

And then, it was Booty Bonanza!

As Wes [smithclimber] looked on from below, I downaided from piece to piece, and secured the following:


#4 Camalot
#3.5 Camalot
Blue 3" Trango quadcam
#2 Friend
#2 1/2 Friend
Two five-step aiders [?!] - yes, just freaking hanging there in the middle of the pitch!
Four or five brand new sewn slings
Half a dozen really swell carabiners
2 lockers


Tom was amazed, and exclaimed,

"You've bootied an entire trad rack in a single pitch!"

[Heh heh, no doubt, eh?]

So here is your Dr. Piton Big Wall Tip of the Day:

I only stopped when I ran out of rope from above! The Batcave pitch of Aurora is similarly festooned with gear.

Should you follow up on this tip, please make your commission cheque payable to Dr. Piton.


apollodorus


Sep 30, 2002, 11:57 PM
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Rapping with a munter hitch down the East Ledges, eh? I did that one last week. Never again. The rope gets twisted like crazy. I should have used a carabiner brake, like I learned from Basic Rockcraft years ago.


rollingstone


Oct 3, 2002, 5:20 PM
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1980. June. El Cap. Two native northwesterners are going to climb the Nose. My partner and I were at Camp 5, and as I led away from the ledges, I spied a little frog on the wall; I was astonished to see a little creature this far up the wall (my first time up there, so I had no frame of reference to know if it is normal or not). I called to my friend, and scooped up the little frog, and gently tossed him down to my friend. Much to our surprise, we had not expected his sudden reaction to the swift pull of gravity and his downward trajectory was mirrored by a stream of urine as the little thing voided his bladder! My friend had just enough time toswing his hand across his face to sweep the offending creature and liquid away from him; imagine my chagrin to see our little friend spread-eagled and sailing towards the ground a half-mile below. (Sigh) While I mourned the loss of amphibious life, my friend (an early incarnation, perhaps, of Dr. Peed-on??) let loose a string of invectives that caught my attention, to say the least. After humble apologies, we agreed not to pass any more wildlife in this manner while on the wall. That is the only thing I recall dropping from a wall.

I did manage to retrieve and old Clog nut from Half Dome in '78.

[ This Message was edited by: rollingstone on 2002-10-03 17:20 ]

[ This Message was edited by: rollingstone on 2002-10-03 17:21 ]


crux_clipper


Oct 13, 2002, 2:04 AM
Post #31 of 40 (6100 views)
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  ROFL

That was the funniest thing i have ever read!


phil_nev


Oct 24, 2002, 1:12 AM
Post #32 of 40 (6100 views)
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"There is never ever a legitimate excuse for either dropping gear, or not being able to retrieve it when you clean."

Pete, i was browsing through your profile and photos recently and, correct me if i'm mistaken, but were you not responsible for dropping somes 'pig'?

Maybe it was a dream???

Phil


passthepitonspete


Oct 24, 2002, 10:54 AM
Post #33 of 40 (6100 views)
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Of course I dropped the pig!

When did I ever attempt to offer an excuse, let alone a legitimate one!

Dropping anything - ever - is stupid and careless. Leaving something behind is even worse.

But dropping your pig is the dumbest dumbass move you could ever make!

Don't do as I do - do as I say.


rocks4jules


Oct 24, 2002, 11:16 AM
Post #34 of 40 (6100 views)
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  Although I am quite impressed with you and your climbing partners' abilities and pictures posted on this site, I must say, every time I read one of your posts I find you that much more strange. I hope all the altitude isn't getting to you. Otherwise, this new and exciting venture of climbing for me might have to be switched to just bouldering.

Jules


phil_nev


Oct 24, 2002, 8:48 PM
Post #35 of 40 (6100 views)
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Ok pete, just checking. I shall do as you say....


passthepitonspete


Oct 25, 2002, 6:52 AM
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Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!!! [DDEL]

I live at 246' ASL.


passthepitonspete


Dec 18, 2002, 3:30 PM
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Gads. I wrote this post before I dropped Tom's pig.

It just wouldn't be fair to leave this post dangling without linking it here to How Dr. Piton Dropped Tom's Pig.

Man, it hurts when ya gotta confess....

Sheesh.

Note: Please reply to this post if you wish to share thoughts of your own personal worth as a climber. Should you wish to comment on the doc's little episode, please reply in the post linked above. Thank you for your assistance in my clusterf*ck management.


pywiak


Dec 18, 2002, 3:57 PM
Post #38 of 40 (6100 views)
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Went up on Mescalito a few years back with 15 heads. Came down with 75. More than I've ever needed on anything since.

Topped out on Horsechute with several rolls of slides. Mailed them to Kodak. Never saw them again. Now that was sad!


twrock


Dec 19, 2002, 2:05 AM
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Bummer on the film. My brother makes a point of taking in his very important film (ie wedding shots) to either different photo shops or at different times. I'm too lazy, but maybe.....


wallrat


Dec 22, 2002, 1:27 PM
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    One small adition, if I may...I'd have to say that the answer to "How much gear is a reasonable amount to drop?" is 'less than you find as bootie.' Cheers!

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