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How often do you fall on gear?
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jt512


Jul 8, 2005, 10:07 AM
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Registered: Apr 11, 2001
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Re: How often do you fall on gear? [In reply to]
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In response to the recent post asking about length of time to allow a rope to relax after a fall, if I remember correctly ( I spent 22 years as the American delegate to the UIAA Safety Commission) , the UIAA allows 5 minutes between drops during the "drop test" portion of the test.

I would write that they only allow 5 minutes between drops, as this is known to be insufficient time for the rope to fully recover from a hard fall. The brief time between drops is one reason why the test is so rigorous and consequently why our ropes are so safe.

-Jay


davidji


Jul 8, 2005, 12:46 PM
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Re: How often do you fall on gear? [In reply to]
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The advice of a recent poster (davidji) to switch ends of the rope is not unfounded but often totally impractical in the field in the case where " you have to finish the route".
You'd expect that in most cases if you've fallen on the belay and you can still climb, you will reach the belay again and time permitting, continuing the climb leading on the other rope end should be fine.

If you just took a big fall on the belay, can you be sure you won't do it again in exactly the same spot? In potentially bad fall situations, sometimes you could pretect better than you did, and sometimes you can't. Of course the latter cases require more caution.

And if you know the rope recovery time (I have 20-30min in the back of my mind, but no idea if it's correct), it will help you evaluate the situation.

Recovery time or not, note that one end of the used rope in the thread I pointed to in my previous message, broke on the first UIAA fall.


jt512


Jul 8, 2005, 1:04 PM
Post #78 of 79 (8270 views)
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Re: How often do you fall on gear? [In reply to]
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If you just took a big fall on the belay, can you be sure you won't do it again in exactly the same spot? Sometimes yes sometimes no. Of course the latter cases require more caution.

Just out of curiosity, are you speaking from experience or theorizing? How many factor-2 falls have you taken and, among those, how many repeat factor-2 falls did you take?

-Jay


davidji


Jul 8, 2005, 2:03 PM
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Re: How often do you fall on gear? [In reply to]
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How many factor-2 falls have you taken and, among those, how many repeat factor-2 falls did you take?
Heh heh. None. I should have edited that and made that clear. Sorry. There's only so much editing you can do.

Anyway I've been in various situations with serious fall potential for me or my partner for whatever reason. Also I'm familiar with cases where climbers fell on the belay repeatedly or fatally. Sometimes you can protect better than you did, and sometimes you can't.

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