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angry
Mar 31, 2005, 5:23 PM
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Tradklime, I'm so proud. Boosting your postcount with a pissing context. I knew if we shared the same tent long enough I'd get through to you.
::fshizzle wipes a tear from his eye::
And by the way, I've climbed at the creek as much as anyone in this thread probably. Anyway, I have NEVER had a problem picking the right gear for a climb. I've had a problem finding enough of it, but I always knew what to take. And that is with xerox pages of bad guides, personal descriptions, and walking around to see what we see. I can't understand why or how this whole size thing is such a problem.
The new guidebook does suck though, but for a great many other reasons than a silly cam chart.
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alpnclmbr1
Mar 31, 2005, 5:36 PM
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In reply to: To me, a .4 friend means a 3/8 inch piece, or a blue alien, or a .4 wired bliss tcu. To you, it means a green alien. And in the context of this guidebook, you are wrong.
Dude, we are talking about a real world climbing area.
The only version of that guide that I have seen was the original manuscript. I have news for you, it didn't have a cam chart. The cam chart was probably put in there to placate gumbies. Gumbies that think they can solve their problems by reading a chart.
Guess what, most people use aliens for the smaller sized cams and the beta reflects that. ,5 friend = yellow, .4 = green, .3 = blue.
Duh. It's not that complicated.
re: rockies problem. It seems that he doesn't just not know what a .4 friend is, he doesn't know how big a #3 friend is either. The from a 5.13 climber that has climbed all over the place, in all styles, since the 7th grade.
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angry
Mar 31, 2005, 5:36 PM
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In reply to: Do you have the measurements(open, closed, and usable open and closed) of all your cams memorized? So you want the guidebook to provide cam placements in inches. Then you are going to use a chart to figure out which cams to bring.
A sure sign that you've spent far too long reading guides and gear descriptions than actually climbing. Every single crack climber (including tradklime) that I know can convert aliens, BD, WC, DMM, and Metolius with less effort than even opening a book. You show your inability here.
then
In reply to: What do you do with a #2 friend sized crack and a rack of camalots. Would that be a gold or a red, either could work by the numbers. As a matter of fact most likely it wouldn't be either at a place like the creek. Like I said before. You have to understand your tools in order to use them properly. Most places you can get away with being sloppy. IC is not most places.
Unless the crack is so tight you worry about fixing the piece, a red BD is fully interchangable with a #2 friend. Use a green BD if it is truly that tight. A 1.5 friend is disappointingly smaller than a #2 friend. An orange alien fixes this problem. With more than 1 day in the desert, you'd know this.
Alpnclmbr, dude, you just showed up for the Tour de France on a tricycle, best to leave and let the grownups fight.
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alpnclmbr1
Mar 31, 2005, 5:59 PM
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God dam, they seem to come out of the woodwork on this site.
You seem to think that I am advocating memorizing all your cam specs. You might work on your readin comprehension there.
Also, it has been pretty well established (particularly with tradclimb) that most of the people in this thread do not know what a .4 friend size means at indian creek.
In reply to: Unless the crack is so tight you worry about fixing the piece, a red BD is fully interchangable with a #2 friend. Use a green BD if it is truly that tight. A 1.5 friend is disappointingly smaller than a #2 friend. An orange alien fixes this problem. With more than 1 day in the desert, you'd know this.
I guess it depends on who you hang out with, rc.commers or the real indian creek locals. Anyone that doesn't know the #2 friend beta hasn't climbed(or gotten beta from) with the locals.
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rockprodigy
Mar 31, 2005, 6:00 PM
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In reply to: re: rockies problem. It seems that he doesn't just not know what a .4 friend is, he doesn't know how big a #3 friend is either. The from a 5.13 climber that has climbed all over the place, in all styles, since the 7th grade.
Ohh, sssnap!!!
I'm trying to keep climbing ability out of this. I admit I have trouble using that horrible cam chart (which, suddenly, you've never seen). I think you have trouble with reading comprehension.
I want YOU to tell me what a 3.0 friend is based on the chart, since you think it's so freaking simple, a monkey could do it.
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tradklime
Mar 31, 2005, 6:11 PM
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[quote="alpnclmbr1] Guess what, most people use aliens for the smaller sized cams and the beta reflects that. ,5 friend = yellow, .4 = green, .3 = blue.
Duh. It's not that complicated.
Ok, once again, here is the problem with that, the reference to a .75 friend.
As was pointed out previously, the most likely source for the "traditional" sizing references was before a .5 friend existing. If you switch the .75, .5, and .4 "Friend" with "Wired Bliss TCU" then the chart makes more sense. In that context, .75=yellow alien=modern .5 friend sizing. And you know what else, that also makes more sense for a "descriptive sizing" perspective.
Now I know you don't agree with this, but many, including myself, think you are wrong. And instead of acknowledging that others potentially have a valid point, you act like a condescending a$$hole.
And that is my only interest in this. I would never totally decide my gear via a cam chart and guide book beta, never.
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golsen
Mar 31, 2005, 6:18 PM
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In reply to: OK, if you've seen the new Indian Creek guidebook from Sharpend, the introduction states that all gear beta will be reported in Wild Country "Friend" sizes, because of traditions. Then, there is this completely hoakey chart which supposedly compares the different sizes. Can anyone please explain this to me? The chart is missing numerous sizes, then occasionally, the book will reccomend a cam size that doesn't exist in WC sizes, i.e., a "#0.4". What does all this mean? I kinda think giving out specific beta, as in "bring 7 2.5 friends" is pretty stupid in the first place...what's wrong with saying "gear to 3", extra 2.5's"? But, if you're going to try to do it, at least have it make sense!
Mike, gear to 3 is an excellent way to present the info. Clearly, the chart could have been better researched. Bjornstads Wall Street Guide references manufacturers ranges which is the safe way for a guidebook writer to present the information.
The ANGST shown here reflects the intensity of the people...Have you guys thought about going climbing? The weather must suck where you guys are at to be arguing about some of this stuff. But I must say, it is entertaining in a perverse way to see some of you put eachother down...
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angry
Mar 31, 2005, 6:30 PM
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Golsen, dude, it's snowing like crazy. Then gets warm almost long enough to dry out the rocks and then snows again. The traddies are getting pissed in CO right now.
Supposed to be warm here this weekend, hopefully the cracks will be dry. I recently completed my cam stack, about a dozen of them have never even been placed, you know I'm pissed. It needs to get warm and stay warm.
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alpnclmbr1
Mar 31, 2005, 7:29 PM
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I think the proper term for describing my state of mind is one of exasperation.
For a 20 year climber, I am a Indian Creek gumbie.
What does that make you guys?
So sue me for trying to inject some reality into this site. For the most part I am writing for the benefit of innocent people that might be reading this thread. The people responding to this thread are acting like a uniform group of idiots. Sorry, if that seems rude. That is how I see it.
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atg200
Mar 31, 2005, 7:36 PM
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i think the proper term for describing your state of mind is deranged puppy kicker.
i think that the author of gems like this one http://www.supertopo.com/...tml?m=58834#msg58969 talking about injecting reality into an internet discussion is hilarious.
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alpnclmbr1
Mar 31, 2005, 9:42 PM
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Well an ex moderator admin, progammer joins the fray. You guys sure stick together.
Read this, then think about what you have read in this thread.
In reply to: rockprodigy is right on, and possibly the most accomplished alpine climber on this site. i often don't like his attitude, but i sure as hell listen to whatever he says. you should too.
The "possibly the most accomplished alpine climber on this site" doesn't know how big a #3 friend is and he is asking rc.com to tell him. Right, that makes perfect sense.
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tradklime
Mar 31, 2005, 10:13 PM
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In reply to: I want YOU to tell me what a 3.0 friend is based on the chart, since you think it's so freaking simple, a monkey could do it.
Alpnclmr1, read it again. Jacka$$.
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alpnclmbr1
Mar 31, 2005, 10:29 PM
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In reply to: Weight and bulk should be considered. It makes a huge difference when you are carrying 10+ units. I just sold my Camalots to buy some "cheaper" cams, mainly for size and weight. I'm glad I did. |
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tradklime
Mar 31, 2005, 10:46 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Weight and bulk should be considered. It makes a huge difference when you are carrying 10+ units. I just sold my Camalots to buy some "cheaper" cams, mainly for size and weight. I'm glad I did.
Damn, busted!
Oh wait a minute... that was in reference to the previous style camalots, and I still feel that way. (with the possible exception of the #4, which interestingly no longer exists in its former grandure of being perfect for fist cracks).
Anyway, ya got a point?
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alpnclmbr1
Mar 31, 2005, 11:04 PM
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So now you are saying that you sold your second gen in order to buy third gen? That isn't what you said in the quote.
Could it be that you sold 1st gen in order to buy second gen? No that wouldn't make any sense.
I am just curious to see if you dumped your camalots? It would be kind of strange for someone who climbs at the creek.
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atg200
Mar 31, 2005, 11:30 PM
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i read the thread again, and i still think you are completely socially inept. here is my analysis of the thread so far.
what you can't get through your thick skull is that rockprodigy is trying to make a point. i don't see why he is trying to make this point since all cam charts are crap and always have been and everybody knows that. mostly i think he is bitching just so he has something to talk about since the weather sucks. every other person posting seems to have picked up on that.
on the other hand, alpndckhd1 the internet superhero wades in and declares that a guy who has freed el cap and freed the lowe route in zion is a gumbie. he latches onto his own bizarre world view like a chihuahua attacking a pant leg, and sadly shakes his head at everyone else's stupidity. lots of strange unexplained quoting that really has nothing to do with the thread follows.
oh yeah, and golsen said something funny that salvaged the whole thread.
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tradklime
Mar 31, 2005, 11:31 PM
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In reply to: I am just curious to see if you dumped your camalots?
Several years ago, close to when that post was made, i got fed up with lugging a bunch of camalots around, so I sold them, so I could afford to buy some new cams. The bulk of my rack now consists of aliens and Wild Country. But you know what, I still climb with camalots every once in awhile, and many other cam types for that matter, because I have friends. And friends/ climbing partners sometimes combine their racks, when necessary.
You've really turned the heat up on this one. So I'm going to bow out. :lol: :roll: Not to mention it is just getting plain strange.
Actually, I think you are a rather odd fellow and you are starting to creep me out. Pouring over my posts from years ago. Next you'll google my name, perhaps dig up some real dirt. And then I'll come home to rabbit boiling on my stove.
Friggin' waco!
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alpnclmbr1
Apr 1, 2005, 12:35 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: I want YOU to tell me what a 3.0 friend is based on the chart, since you think it's so freaking simple, a monkey could do it. Alpnclmr1, read it again. Jacka$$.
Dude, maybe you should read it. Going on seven pages and not one of his many bro's has even attempted to answer it.
As far as looking at peoples post histories to see if they post idiotic crap?
I think that is generally a good idea.
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angry
Apr 1, 2005, 1:13 AM
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In reply to: You've really turned the heat up on this one. So I'm going to bow out. :lol: :roll: Not to mention it is just getting plain strange. Actually, I think you are a rather odd fellow and you are starting to creep me out. Pouring over my posts from years ago. Next you'll google my name, perhaps dig up some real dirt. And then I'll come home to rabbit boiling on my stove. Friggin' waco!
I just wanted to quote this and have people see my sig. I used to think stalking is the highest form of flattery. I was wrong.
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maculated
Apr 1, 2005, 1:37 AM
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John, I am kind of thinking you are my stalker. All your sigs have to do with me . . . weird . . .
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jaybro
Apr 1, 2005, 6:01 AM
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Drift
"but I always knew what to take."
Sigh, I agree that you usually can tell, at Indian Creek and that this not generally is not a problem ...however, twice (Meat Hooks and At Your Cervix) I have embarrassed myself by judging wrong and having to pull up peices that I needed. Both times from much better, even famous climbers. It's good to be humbled. Both times I was able to do it from stances, if that is any saving grace!
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jaybro
Apr 1, 2005, 6:08 AM
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BTW, I do like the new guide, in a coffe table book kind of way. But it does seem like they manged to collect many of the various problems with all the other guides, and put them between two covers. Then there are the ratings, and, sadly, total omission of my own first ascents, even those that have appeared in print before. :(
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alpnclmbr1
Apr 1, 2005, 7:00 AM
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This just keeps getting better and better.
Your "puppy" is a lieutenant in the US Air Force. Commisioned by the President of the United States.
Wait, it gets better.
In the three months prior to joining this site, he climbed the cassin on denali, the rainbow wall in vegas, and the Devils thumb in BC. All while serving in the airforce. Thats is so rad that it is almost unbelievable.
Who would of guessed?
ps. jaybro and his going off belay in order to pull up more gear on a creek route is just soo rad.
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atg200
Apr 1, 2005, 1:36 PM
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not puppy. puppy kicker. big difference.
dear lord i hope they don't give you a gun at work.
nice job on those routes. did you free the rainbow wall? if so, did you need a .4 friend on it?
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golsen
Apr 1, 2005, 4:48 PM
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alpnclmbr....what seems to be your problem? Is there something that the rc community can do to help?
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