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stymingersfink


Apr 5, 2005, 12:23 AM
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In reply to:
[snip]

A solution to this I think would be to sling them line aliens are slung.

The nice thing about the new slings are they actually give an extra inch or two in certain aid placements I've found which is really nice.

All in all I really like the new designs and a sling isin't going to make or break them for me. You can always resling them to your own liking.

P.K.
Wouldn't recommend it. Saw a pic or two of some testing in the QA lab with extendable sling configurations a la DMM or WC. (I think they referred to it as 'double slung') It was subjected to 3.5 (+/-.5) kN impact force, resulting in a noticable difference between the standard sewn sling and the spectra 'extendable' sling.

Why do you think they sewed the sling in the same manner that the cam Jr's were sewn? It has to do with having a double layer of sling material over the cable of the stem. This increases the radius of the bend in the sling at this point, and spreads the impact force over the 18mm width of the nylon sling, rather than focusing it in an 8-12mm wde section of spectra.

(down with the werd nazies!!!)


maculated


Apr 5, 2005, 12:32 AM
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C4s are overrated. When I hear about how great they are, how sexy, how light, how new . . . how everyone's going to replace their old cams with them, I cringe. People, people, the way of truth is with forged friends. Forged, I tell you. Forged.

This thread is ridiculous. I'm telling you. EVERYONE hates the C4 redesign.

:wink:


vegastradguy


Apr 5, 2005, 10:26 PM
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just thought i'd update this thread with the status on my sad, broken little gold C4.

talked to BD and shipped him off today to Salt Lake City for some tests- and hopefully he'll come back all fresh and new!

:D

edit: i didnt think to take any pictures, sorry!


Partner angry


Apr 7, 2005, 5:19 AM
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In reply to:
C4s are overrated. When I hear about how great they are, how sexy, how light, how new . . . how everyone's going to replace their old cams with them, I cringe. People, people, the way of truth is with forged friends. Forged, I tell you. Forged.

This thread is ridiculous. I'm telling you. EVERYONE hates the C4 redesign.

:wink:

It's funny how your effort at sarcasm is actually the honest truth. Too bad I chickened out of the creek (although 2 routes in 5 days or whatever your TR said, I don't feel too bad), or you'd have seen the power of a rigid friend. Durable, light, unchanging, good enough, and simple. Talk about a price point buy. Whatever, if I need to borrow gear and someone has C4's I'll use them, but I couldn't care less.


dirtineye


Apr 7, 2005, 4:23 PM
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In reply to:
just thought i'd update this thread with the status on my sad, broken little gold C4.

talked to BD and shipped him off today to Salt Lake City for some tests- and hopefully he'll come back all fresh and new!

:D

edit: i didnt think to take any pictures, sorry!

How do you know your cam is a he?


chanceboarder


Apr 7, 2005, 4:27 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
just thought i'd update this thread with the status on my sad, broken little gold C4.

talked to BD and shipped him off today to Salt Lake City for some tests- and hopefully he'll come back all fresh and new!

:D

edit: i didnt think to take any pictures, sorry!

How do you know your cam is a he?
i think he took a look under its cam lobes and saw his trigger wire hanging out :shock:


sspssp


Apr 7, 2005, 4:43 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
[snip]

A solution to this I think would be to sling them line aliens are slung.

The nice thing about the new slings are they actually give an extra inch or two in certain aid placements I've found which is really nice.

All in all I really like the new designs and a sling isin't going to make or break them for me. You can always resling them to your own liking.

P.K.
Wouldn't recommend it. Saw a pic or two of some testing in the QA lab with extendable sling configurations a la DMM or WC. (I think they referred to it as 'double slung') It was subjected to 3.5 (+/-.5) kN impact force, resulting in a noticable difference between the standard sewn sling and the spectra 'extendable' sling.

I cut the slings off my C4s and had them reslung like Aliens. Ok, maybe there is a slight difference, but does it matter whether it holds 3.5kN or 3.0kN (or whatever the difference is).

And for that matter, are you implying that Aliens are dangerous because of using a double sling? I read Accidents in North America Mountaineering each year, I can't remember ever reading about a sewn sling on a cam failing. Has anyone else?

cheers


capn_morgan


Apr 7, 2005, 8:18 PM
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I am all for a redesign when it means I can get the old ones at half price. 28$ for a #1 camalot...now thats a redesign and a half.

btw..what are you guys talking about with regards to the slings? Aliens do not have a double sling. Are you thinking of the WC Zeros or DMMs? On another note, 3Kn is about 670 lbf.


sspssp


Apr 7, 2005, 8:29 PM
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Oops, my bad. I have double slings on my Aliens, but only because I cut them off and had them resewn with doubles. So I should have used a different cam as an example, but the point is the same.


davidji


Apr 7, 2005, 8:53 PM
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In reply to:
A sentence ending in a preposition is an abomination up with which I will not put!
Interesting play on Churchill's famous quote that made the opposite point: the convolutions we go through to avoid ending a sentence with a preposition can get absurd. Guys, it's OK to end a sentence with a preposition.

http://www.yourdictionary.com/library/drlang001.html.


omeier


Apr 7, 2005, 9:20 PM
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I've had em since there release last year.
I love them and have no complaints. The only
thing that i would improve on them would be by adding
a doubled sling like dmm's and others. That can sometimes come in
handy.
The only negative thing that i've heard about them is that they're
supposedly prone to being overcammed; however, I' haven't found that
to be true.

I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

Oliver


vegastradguy


Apr 7, 2005, 11:30 PM
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How do you know your cam is a he?

dude, cams go IN the rock! :lol:


dirtineye


Apr 8, 2005, 12:21 AM
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How do you know your cam is a he?

dude, cams go IN the rock! :lol:

Good point!


farva


Apr 9, 2005, 5:57 AM
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The double thickness of material around the stem cable on the C4 sling is there for a reason. They didn't go to all that trouble & cost of sewing them this way for cosmetics. If you chop it off & use a double runner style then you WILL reduce the ultimate breaking strength of the unit. The reasons for the loss of strength have already been described earlier in this post. It's not worth compromising your protection for little added versatility.


farva


Apr 9, 2005, 6:07 AM
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The double thickness of material around the stem tube on the C4 sling is there for a reason. They didn't go to all that trouble & cost of sewing them this way for cosmetics. If you chop it off & use a double runner style then you WILL reduce the ultimate breaking strength of the unit. The reasons for the loss of strength have already been described earlier in this post. It's not worth compromising your protection for little added versatility.


corpse


Apr 10, 2005, 1:12 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:

How do you know your cam is a he?

dude, cams go IN the rock! :lol:

So does this mean only "men" crack climb, and the "girls" stick to the face climbing?


Partner angry


Apr 10, 2005, 1:59 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:

How do you know your cam is a he?

dude, cams go IN the rock! :lol:

So does this mean only "men" crack climb, and the "girls" stick to the face climbing?

Women climb arete's and pinnacles.


jimdavis


Apr 11, 2005, 10:03 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:

How do you know your cam is a he?

dude, cams go IN the rock! :lol:

So does this mean only "men" crack climb, and the "girls" stick to the face climbing?

Women climb arete's and pinnacles.

And dihederals... :lol:


vegastradguy


Apr 12, 2005, 11:07 PM
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update on my broken C4- turns out it was broken enough that BD didnt even bother trying to repair it. my new one will be here tomorrow.

have to love that customer service!!!


Partner trguy


Apr 12, 2005, 11:30 PM
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Cheap C4s...

http://cgi.ebay.com/...ageName=STRK:MESE:IT


esallen


Apr 13, 2005, 12:38 AM
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Took 'em to Indain Creek last weekend . . . Loads of fun.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=52183


Partner climbinginchico


Apr 13, 2005, 1:54 AM
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update on my broken C4- turns out it was broken enough that BD didnt even bother trying to repair it. my new one will be here tomorrow.

have to love that customer service!!!

did they let you know exactly what was wrong with it? what caused the problem?


Partner gunksgoer


Apr 13, 2005, 2:12 AM
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Theres a quote that goes something like
In reply to:
Theres nothing as over rated as sex and as under rated as a big dump.

well, i personally think that quote should be changed to
In reply to:
Theres nothing as over rated as Black Diamond C4s and as under rated as a big dump.

theyre newer, a tad lighter, and have a thumb loop. oh well, ill live with my old style camalots. i have a #1 older style camalot, and got a #1 C4 right after they came out. the thumb loop was sorta nice, but i could only berrreelllyy feel the weight difference. i wasnt really satisfied, so i sold it.

i can see that the redesign has helped in the larger sizes, but i think people need to calm down.


Partner climbinginchico


Apr 13, 2005, 3:06 AM
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Pick up a 3, or a 4. Much more apparent in the weight difference.


vegastradguy


Apr 13, 2005, 5:20 AM
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update on my broken C4- turns out it was broken enough that BD didnt even bother trying to repair it. my new one will be here tomorrow.

have to love that customer service!!!

did they let you know exactly what was wrong with it? what caused the problem?

not via email- perhaps there will be a note with the new one. if not, i'll email them again and see- i'm pretty sure it was just a fluke in production.

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