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climbingbetty22


May 22, 2006, 6:36 PM
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Wow- our poor old thread is in need of some help...

I was at the Gunks this weekend, yesterday was my birthday. I had intented to spend it on the rocks, but Mother Nature had other ideas. :evil: I did get to do some climbing on Saturday though in the Nears. Finally did the ultra-classic Disneyland (and I didn't even resort to the beached-whale maneuver), had a very Sly-Stallone-in-Cliffhanger moment on the very wet, very slicked out crux of Tee-Dum, but perhaps the biggest adventure of the day was the second pitch of grease Gun Groove. The First pitch is quite nice and I'd recommend it (if its dry!) to anyone wandering through the Nears, but locating up at the second pitch of the climb, you'll say to yourself "Where the hell does this thing go?" Let that thought be your caution!!! Unless you really get off on climbing chossy, flexing holds covered in lichen and moss. I and my partners that day had to literally lift up tufts of moss to gain handhold on the rock. Anyway, don't recommend the second pitch. :roll:

But despite the less-then desirable weather and climbing conditions, my lovely boyfriend made me a gift of several of the 8 mil Mammut slings and Trango Superfly carabiners in order to help lighten my rack and rid it of the hated ovals. (Well he dislikes using them- "save 'em for when we do a wall" he says!) :D And that sums up why climber-boyfriends rock. Huh-huh. nice pun, eh? :roll: :lol:


Partner taino


May 22, 2006, 7:32 PM
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Had clients this past Sunday; got in 3 hours of climbing and got rained on - decided to go hiking as a group, instead. Knee is very sore today.

Looking forward to getting on rock on my own terms, this coming weekend.

T


Partner happiegrrrl


May 22, 2006, 10:29 PM
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I led P1 of Diana(we had no intention of going on to the harder pitch) this weekend and got my partner to the belay just as the rain opened up. This lead was a good one for me because I place gear like it's an addiction, and this time - I HAD to (well, I suppose I didn't HAVE to....) climb above pieces beyond my usual comfort level.

The first 30 feet had me in hyper-Do Not Fall mode, but after that, it was down to the regular "Why Fall When You Don't Have To?" mode.....

In the last few weeks I've gotten a few good leads(for me) in. Please put on your raincoats; here come the spray.....
- P1 and P3 of Snowpatch
- P1 of Wrist
- P2 of Disneyland

And....I grovelled through Bellyroll....hahahah. And I follwoed my first Gunks 5.8, clean and onsight(Slab Schticks in the Nears).

FYI - there is an equiste orchid right alongside the trail in the Nears. It is about 1/2 way down the cliff. Sorry, I didn't note the climbs it is near, but it is a shaded, woody area(orchid terrain). On the downhill side, there is a large log as a trail holder-upper. It isn't the first log you'll pass on your way through. But it is a long one, and pretty fat and still not very decomposed, if that will help diferentiate. Anyway, about the middle of the log, look on the opposite side of the trail, and there the orchid resides.

Please be careful if you go down that far, as the thing is very close to the trail and would be easy to step on or smack with gear. That would kill the thing, of course. I've never seen an orchid up here, and this one is a beautiful, large specimen.

http://img.photobucket.com/...ed2006-4-1300028.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/...ed2006-4-1300036.jpg


Partner cracklover


May 22, 2006, 10:43 PM
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Damn girl, is it raining again? Let me get my raincoat to keep off all that spray! ;) Seriously, though - congrats!


In reply to:
FYI - there is an equiste orchid right alongside the trail in the Nears. It is about 1/2 way down the cliff. Sorry, I didn't note the climbs it is near, but it is a shaded, woody area(orchid terrain). On the downhill side, there is a large log as a trail holder-upper. It isn't the first log you'll pass on your way through. But it is a long one, and pretty fat and still not very decomposed, if that will help diferentiate. Anyway, about the middle of the log, look on the opposite side of the trail, and there the orchid resides.

Please be careful if you go down that far, as the thing is very close to the trail and would be easy to step on or smack with gear. That would kill the thing, of course. I've never seen an orchid up here, and this one is a beautiful, large specimen.

http://img.photobucket.com/...ed2006-4-1300028.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/...ed2006-4-1300036.jpg

It's a ladyslipper. Yup, it's in the orchid family, and yes, they're beautiful. Very, um, how shall I put this... Well - Georgia O'Keeffe would love 'em. 8^)

There's a large reserve near me in Boston, and I typically take a hike through the area once a season every year this time to see the ladyslippers. One spot in the reserve, in particular, has huge swaths of them - never seen so many anywhere else. You can stand in one spot, turning in a circle and peering through the trees, you will see hundreds rising up from the dead leaves. This area stretches for about a mile of paths, it's pretty cool!

GO


Partner cracklover


May 22, 2006, 11:26 PM
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Check out the description of the ladyslipper from wikkipedia:
In reply to:
Unlike most other members of Cypripedium, the pouch of C. acaule opens in a slit the runs down the front of the labellum rather than a round opening. The plant consists of two plicate leaves near the ground. From between those leaves sprouts a long, pubuscent stalk that bears a single pink flower. The sepals and petals tend to be yellowish-brown to maroon with a large pouch that is usually pink, but is sometimes solid white.

IRL, the flower looks like it's confused whether it's a nutsack or a huge inflamed set of labia.

The way it works is to trap insects in the pouch between it's giant labellum, forcing them to pass by its clitoris, oops, I mean its staminode, behind which they collect or deposit pollinia.

Yowza!

Oh, by the way, happy birthday Climbingbetty!

G:mrgreen:


jackflash


May 23, 2006, 2:38 AM
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IRL, the flower looks like it's confused whether it's a nutsack or a huge inflamed set of labia.

If only some intrepid, botanical, horny climber was willing to find out.


snops7


May 24, 2006, 9:51 PM
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Happiegrrrl, the pictures that you took came out great! It was impressive to see the orchid there along the trail. I believe the climb that it was near is Cherokee. It is past Eastertime, Too but before Slab Schtick. Hope that helps, and if going down that way try to walk lightly.


backspace


Jun 5, 2006, 2:28 PM
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wtf


Partner happiegrrrl


Jun 5, 2006, 3:14 PM
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wtf?

Do you refer to the talkj of flowers on a climbing forum? If so, I can explain.....

The mentioned orchid was found alomng the approach trail of a poular climbing destination. Since some climbers are also interested innative plants and animals, and other things that can be a peripheral part of the climbing experience, I mentioned this find.
1) In case poeple would want to go see it for themselves
2) So people would be aware, and take care when in the area, so as not to accidenatlly kill the thing.

Anyway.....

This weekend I hiked up the easy way to the top of Bonticou, and found 3 more of the Lady Slippers, aslo right along the trail. They were well past thier prime, though. Looks like the season must be at about mid-may, to catch them in peak bloom.

The cool thing about the Bonticou orchids was that each one I saw had two flowers, one right next to the other. Separate plants, but so close they would appear as one.

Anyway, I mentioned spotting the plants to a person who had also seen the Nera's orchid, and he told me.....that another person reported seeing a spot (in the Gunks, undisclosed area) so covered with the things, that he estiomated at least 150.

I am going to keep this in mind for next May.....


Partner cracklover


Jun 5, 2006, 4:03 PM
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Speaking of the Gunks, for those of you who haven't seen it yet - cool recent photos from the Gunks this weekend posted on gunksdot. Yes, it was raining, but some folks don't mind the rain. Some folks have no choice but to be out in the rain. See here

Y'all be careful, it's a jungle out there!

G:lol:


climbingbetty22


Jun 5, 2006, 5:52 PM
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Oh, by the way, happy birthday Climbingbetty!

G:mrgreen:


Thanks Gabe!!!

That was a super cute picture of the little bears on the carriage road!!


mowz


Jun 13, 2006, 1:47 PM
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Having only been to the Gunks once and only getting on a few routes, is a double rope necessary for any of the classic routes (3-5 stars)? I have a 70m; is it enough?

BTW, I'll be at the Trapps on the 24th and 25th of June of 2006.


climbingbetty22


Jun 14, 2006, 3:02 AM
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Given that most of the FAs of Gunk's routes took place before 70m ropes were en vogue, you should be more than set with a 70m for climbing. In the Uberfall area that will cover you for most rappels as well, as you start to work you're way down the cliff though, it would probably be advisable to get some beta on the length of the descent route from any knowledgeable, surrounding parties.


shakylegs


Jun 14, 2006, 3:18 PM
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Or, you know, you could walk off, which is often the quickest way if you only have a single rope.


troutboy


Jun 14, 2006, 7:32 PM
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In reply to:
Having only been to the Gunks once and only getting on a few routes, is a double rope necessary for any of the classic routes (3-5 stars)? I have a 70m; is it enough?

First, there are no 5-star routes at the Gunks...The guidebooks use 3-stars for the classics :wink:

Second, the bolted rap routes (noted in photos in the new Williams' guide for the Trapps) are set up for 60 meter ropes, so double or a 70m are not required. Anywhere near the Uberfall is an easy walk off from the top.

Finally, the non-bolted rap routes vary. Some you can do from the top with a 50, some require a 60. None require a 70m rope. Best is to ask for specific rap info from someone at the cliff for the area you are at, check out potential rap points on your ascent (many trees have rap anchors), or if unsure, suck it up and walk off. Bring a couple of rap rings or a quick link and some bail webbing because many of the rap stations have old slings that may need replacement.


Partner cracklover


Jun 14, 2006, 8:05 PM
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Bring a couple of rap rings or a quick link and some bail webbing because many of the rap stations have old slings that may need replacement.

I have enough quick links, could you use a nice ball-locker? I haven't bootied one of those in a while. :twisted:

I've cleaned so many cordelettes and leaver-biners from trees on top of the cliff - typically within a few feet of an established rap anchor. People who leave the ground without a clue as to how they're going to get back down are my favorite. Keep 'em coming!

GO


climbingbetty22


Jun 22, 2006, 4:42 AM
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Anyone else starting to get really annoyed with lack of quality climbing time due to the prevalence of shitty wet weather here in New England!?!?!?! :shock: :tinfoilhat:

:wtf:


troutboy


Jun 23, 2006, 1:34 PM
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Anyone else starting to get really annoyed with lack of quality climbing time due to the prevalence of s--- wet weather here in New England!?!?!?! :shock: :tinfoilhat:

:wtf:

Not really. The weather in Delaware has been perfect for mountain biking and not being gone on the weekend has led to a lot of "quality" time with the spouse :D . It's good to have other interests :wink:

It is pretty weird how the weather has been so perfect here, just 175 miles south of the Gunks, and so crappy up there.

TS


jakedatc


Jul 19, 2006, 11:12 PM
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is Gunks.com dead? or has the address been changed.. noticed a few days ago but thought it might have just been down.. but i tried again today.. also gabe's link up there doesn't work anymore.


Partner cracklover


Jul 20, 2006, 12:32 AM
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is Gunks.com dead?

At the time of this posting, yes. Supposedly it crashed while the webmaster was (and still is) away. Word on the street is that others are working to get it back online.

Keep your fingers crossed.

GO


jakedatc


Jul 20, 2006, 12:48 AM
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ahh i see.. bad timing. not a huge deal.. just was surprised


mountainman


Jul 21, 2006, 12:38 AM
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Hi,

Climbing Gunks week of July 24-28. Looking for a partner or plural. Many years experience. Prob climb most Gunks 9s, but moderates are fine with me.

A ride from the New Haven, CT area during this time would be a big bonus, so I don't hog the family car. Also a return. That would be a first.

Expectations are low, but can't imagine not getting in a day at least.

Call 412 736 0896 and ask for Doyle. We may be able to have a fun time.


mountainman


Jul 26, 2006, 11:00 PM
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This forum rocks.

Gunkie Mike the 25th, and Crazy Scott the 26th. Geez, I must go biking to let my arms rest.

Thanks for all the offers and extreme kindness, you sweetest people in the world.


Partner happiegrrrl


Jul 27, 2006, 12:35 AM
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Yay! I love a happy ending......

It looks like I will be up to the Gunks this weekend, hopefully arriving some time on Friday and departing some time on Sunday(hooking up rides through Craigslist.....)

I am not afraid of the rain forecasts.

anyway - I'll be in Camp Slime - my first time there, since I have no vehicle.
- What's a good campsite to try to snag - flat, and that I will be able to set up a tarp if it does rain.
- I will be looking to climb on Saturday for sure. Sunday I'm doing trail work.


mountainman


Jul 28, 2006, 3:20 AM
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Sorry to miss you this trip Happiegrrrl,

but perhaps it's fate...

Climbing with Scott again Friday. Whew, was it hot and humid out on the bike. Only 52 miles, but who's counting?

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