karlbaba
May 28, 2005, 7:35 AM
Post #51 of 51
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Registered: Jul 10, 2002
Posts: 1159
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I've had no issues tying an 8.8 to a 10.5 and rapping. I can tie the knot fast but still very carefully, and then pre-tighten. Sometimes I'll still use a fisherman's knot if I know that there is little risk of the rope hanging up or if there is more pressure on the knot, such as during simul-rapping.
For situation where you have to do many raps, it's faster to alternate between pulling fat and pulling skinny. There are pluses and minuses to each. I have found that when the skinny line goes through the anchor, that it's easy to have too much slipping if you aren't careful. Fortunately, even adding one locking biner to just the skinny line (so the skinny line runs through two biners while the fat lines runs around just one) adds enough friction to cure the problem. There are other tricks that increase the friction even more but I would need photos to show them properly.
Peace
Karl
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