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sumo


Jun 4, 2005, 9:51 PM
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A rack thread
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First off I have read almost every rack thread I could find
"new rack" "first rack" "basic rack"
and I have also searched for my individual questions

I have basic climbing stuff
sport package
and have recently started assembling a trad rack

I'm in college so money is a slight factor but not really...

so far I have ordered some
lockers not sure how many 5-7 ?
dynema SP slings 24" 12
1 48"
neutrinos a coulple dozen or, again don't remember
bd nuts 4-13
bd c4 .75, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3
cordalete
nut tool

I feel this is pretty solid and between my partner and I will get me up the stuff we climb

questions
from moose jaw I have enough points for a free cam .4, .5, .75 range
or a handful of nuts say 5 or 6

so since that is free I figure I might as well claim it but not really sure what else I need

as for my second question
I've heard mixed reviews about trano flex cams
I havn't personally used the newer ones

should I pick up a few of those?
if i don't pick up any trangos right now I will probably hold out for a BD sale

weaknesses I see are in the smaller sizes
alright thanks for the input


s


phatcat


Jun 4, 2005, 10:56 PM
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In reply to:
I'm in college so money is a slight factor but not really...

:wtf:



actually, i'm just jealous


chemicalclimber


Jun 4, 2005, 11:06 PM
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In reply to:
weaknesses I see are in the smaller sizes

I've got to completely disagree here. I love my small trangos. I'd prefer Aliens, but for the money, they rock.

Out of curiousity, what are your beefs with them?

-E


sumo


Jun 5, 2005, 12:19 AM
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Edit

sorry what I was saying didn't come across clearly

I was talking about what I currently have
it lacks smaller sizes, well and larger sizes but thats not what I climb
and pointing out my weakness

aliens are nice
if I get any, I would get them in Oregon
OR= no sales tax

_______________________________________________

As far as the money thing
I go to college, and have a pt job (but it includes pro deals)
trango flex cams = $20
c4= $mid thirties, on sale high twenties

make more sense now?


chemicalclimber


Jun 5, 2005, 1:00 AM
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Yes, that makes much more sense. :lol:


mrtristan


Jun 5, 2005, 8:13 AM
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Definitely go for the free Camalot. I love the smaller ones. They rock.

-Tristan


Partner gunksgoer


Jun 5, 2005, 9:24 AM
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Get the .4 and .5 camalot, they will see plenty of use. Also consider getting a 4 camalot and some more stoppers, and depending on where you climb, some hexes or tricams.


stickyfingerz


Jun 5, 2005, 10:59 AM
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I'd recommend getting things that aren't going to be supplemented by your partner. For example: if you're climbing multi-pitch stuff, you'll probably want another cordelette/web-o-lette. If your partner already owns one, don't buy it.

Having said that, I started out climbing on Trango cams. For the price, they can't be beat. I bought a full set (at the time #'s 1-8) and also a #00 TCU which is smaller than the #1 Flex Cam. Since then, I've replaced the #'s 4-8 with BD Cams. (.5-3) I wouldn't get the .4, the double axel is of no advantage at that size, it just adds weight. The BD's do have a better expansion range and tend to walk less in the big sizes, 1-3. However, if your funds are limited, you might consider doubling up on the smaller sizes of stoppers first (4-8). You'll find that there's a lot more overlap between your nut selection and cam options at the smaller size range. You might also consider adding some of the smaller tricams to your rack as those suckers tend to fit in places that other things won't.

Whatever you do, have fun and be safe.


sumo


Jun 8, 2005, 7:32 PM
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rack phase I

http://students.washington.edu/...kers/rack/newish.JPG

i love new stuff
coulple things might be back ordered because they weren't included :cry:

thanks for everyones input

still looking for more though...

s


esallen


Jun 8, 2005, 7:56 PM
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Sounds like a pretty good starter rack; I love my BD C4s!!! I had a set of tri-cams; they were light and fun to place, but they just don't last very long with heavy use. I sold mine off in the spring before they got any worse. If I were you, I'd stick to C4s and either metolius TCUs or CCH Aleins for the real small stuff.

Eric


Partner climboard


Jun 8, 2005, 8:01 PM
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Your next step is to cut off the tags, rack up, and put those shiny toys to use!

That is more than enough for a starter rack. Pick up a .5 Camalot or a red Alien since you have a free credit, it's a good size to have. Someone also mentioned a cordelette, it's good to have.

Get a few pitches under your belt and any holes in your rack will become apparent although I don't see any for a beginning trad leader.


blueeyedclimber


Jun 9, 2005, 9:50 AM
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I see one glaring omission, bu tmaybe it's personal preference...

Tricams! I have the pink, red and blue, and I use them all the time.

Josh


bostonclimbah


Jun 9, 2005, 10:14 AM
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Looks like a solid base. As others have said, I would consider the 3 smallest Tricams. They are an invaluable supplement to both cams and nuts. I carry a total of 6 (2 pink, 2 red, 1 brown, 1 blue) and I use them all.

Not sure what you climb but you could consider trading one of those #2 C4's for a .5. Again, it might not be applicable to where you climb. Around here (North East), I place my .5 way more than I ever use the #2.

Over time, you will want to add more nuts so you have a 1 1/2 - 2 sets but not necessarilly 2 of every size. In my case, I seem to have a lot of #7 & 8 stoppers and I use every one of them.

Before you go spending a bunch more $$$ though, get out there and climb (and of course REALLY learn to use your stuff). You'll know right away what need more / less of.


Partner climbinginchico


Jun 9, 2005, 12:53 PM
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I would definitely add more stuff in the smaller sizes. Aliens from at least yellow-red, orange will compliment your .75 C4. I have C4s from .5 to 3 and aliens from blue-orange. I love them all. I also carry the three smallest tricams (pink, red and brown, with doubles in the pink and red). I'd say you're off to a good start. Just go out and use it now.


Partner euroford


Jun 9, 2005, 2:10 PM
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you got the beginings of a very nice setup there!

now ya just need to take the tags off, lace up some mammut slings through those neutrino's and go climbing!

btw: what are the straight gates for? i would have just bought more wiregates.


sbaclimber


Jun 9, 2005, 2:27 PM
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In reply to:
Looks like a solid base. As others have said, I would consider the 3 smallest Tricams. They are an invaluable supplement to both cams and nuts. I carry a total of 6 (2 pink, 2 red, 1 brown, 1 blue) and I use them all.

Not sure what you climb but you could consider trading one of those #2 C4's for a .5. Again, it might not be applicable to where you climb. Around here (North East), I place my .5 way more than I ever use the #2.

Over time, you will want to add more nuts so you have a 1 1/2 - 2 sets but not necessarilly 2 of every size. In my case, I seem to have a lot of #7 & 8 stoppers and I use every one of them.

Before you go spending a bunch more $$$ though, get out there and climb (and of course REALLY learn to use your stuff). You'll know right away what need more / less of.

I am going to jump on the #0.5 BD cam and tri-cams bandwagon. Both will be very useful, especially the pink tri-cam, though I tend to use all of them (up to #4) quite regularly. Dont worry about hexes. They can be useful at times, but I probably use a hex once for every 50 times I use a tri-cam.
DONT trade in any #2 BD cams! bostonclimbah does have a point about the #0.5s being of more use in the northeast, but if you're like me and like crack climbing, you will find the #2 to be best size for most hand->fist-sized cracks.
It really does all depend on where/what you climb though. So, definitely like bostonclimbah said, get out there and find out from experience what you need.


Partner pbcowboy77


Jun 9, 2005, 3:05 PM
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I see you got the 5 to 13 BD nut's. I really think you should get the 1 through 4, and double up in the 1 and 2 sizes. Another good addition to your rack could be the #7 yellow tri cam, everyone needs a boat anchor. Oh ya also think about doubling up on your nut tool, you never know when you need another bottle opener :wink:


Just kidding about all that.

Start looking at smaller cams. I tend to use all my alliens over my BD's, even up to the #1BD. If your looking to go a bit cheeper look at the WC Zeros. They are light and cheep. If your doing a bunch of horizontal cracks don't get the BD's look at something flexable i.e. Alliens, Zeros, Flexcams.

One more thing, if you have been climbing there, you know what works. Check out what other climbers are using in the area. You will get a million opions on this site the don't matter, scince most of the people have never been where you are climbing.

Good luck and be safe.


sumo


Jun 9, 2005, 4:34 PM
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ok I figured it out
it takes a little proof (pic) to show that i'm not just starting I need a rack thread

thanks for the input

In reply to:
what are the straight gates for? i would have just bought more wiregates.

haha you caught me
they have no purpose
they still have the tags on and I thought it would add to the picture of new stuff

A company messed up my order
it was supposed to make things better I guess.
I will probably ebay and buy an alien with that money

tags are off
no use yet though
lugged them out today but ended up just climbing bolts

thanks again
s


Partner euroford


Jun 10, 2005, 6:27 AM
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LOL!


sumo


Jun 30, 2005, 1:50 PM
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Phase II
http://students.washington.edu/sumo/br/DSC00016.JPG


http://students.washington.edu/sumo/br/DSC00018.JPG

just picking up a few extra things this weekend and i'm done
thanks for all the advice

grigri isn't new just in the pic
some of the stuff I had already from phase I

BTW
I got new sheets / bigger bed

what do you think? ha


mrtristan


Jun 30, 2005, 1:59 PM
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That's a beautiful rack. I havent read the whole thread, but I'm assuming you're going to get some smaller cams?

Now go out there and get it all scratched and dirty. :twisted:

-Tristan


blakester


Jun 30, 2005, 2:59 PM
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Sumner, quit wasting your $$$ on overpriced BD stuff. Trango Superflies are lighter, bigger, and cheaper than those neutrinos! You should check out the DMM 4cu cams currently $29.95 @ rei, or the older Trango Flexcams, 29.99 @ rockempire.com as well. Get the 3 or four smallest tricams, and i'd recomend a few of the mid-sized WC curved hexes, slung on dyneema, say sizes 4-7. Through ebay and the cc.com classifieds I was able to get the 6 smallest tricams, and all the WC hexes for $85, so keep your eyes open. By the way, Beacon Rock re-opens for climbing sometime in July (after a spring closure to protect bird nests), go out there. PM me for climbs or other specific beta. There are some wonderful trad lines @ Beacon.
-Blake


mrtristan


Jul 1, 2005, 10:13 AM
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In reply to:
Sumner, quit wasting your $$$ on overpriced BD stuff.

I'd go Camalots over DMM cams any day.

-Tristan


caughtinside


Jul 1, 2005, 10:25 AM
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Even if it meant spending more than 2x as much?

DMM cams: 30 bucks
Camalots: 62 bucks.

I'd take the double rack. 8^)


landgolier


Jul 1, 2005, 10:30 AM
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I'd rather be standing 10 feet above my #2.5 DMM looking at a hand crack with another one on my rack than 10 feet above my lone #1 BD going, "fuuuuuck." Not all of us can afford to pay out the ass for BD cams when there is plenty of other stuff that gets the job done.


musicman


Jul 1, 2005, 10:30 AM
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In reply to:
Even if it meant spending more than 2x as much?

DMM cams: 30 bucks
Camalots: 62 bucks.

I'd take the double rack. 8^)

man, i'm in love with the C4's, they're just so awesome. but those are some hard numbers to argue with!

you seem to have a pretty solid base with the C4's, so it may not be a bad idea to start filling in the spaces and doubling with DMM.


Partner csgambill


Jul 1, 2005, 11:34 AM
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$30's for C4's!? Can I buy my gear through you? I'll pay you a small markup plus shipping!


linguistbreaker


Jul 1, 2005, 11:59 AM
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Cams are obviously a matter of personal preference, but you might want to check out DMM's new light beaners: the Shield and Spectre. Their open gate strength is 10 compared to 8 for petzl spirit and bd neutrinos, and they're still super light. They also come in tons of colors, so you can match them to your cams - makes me happy. I went with Spectres because sometimes I use a 10.4 rope, and the Shield beaners have a constricted rope bucket that looks about 9.7 or <10 anyway. The Shield are a gram lighter though.


cgailey


Jul 1, 2005, 12:25 PM
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In reply to:
Cams are obviously a matter of personal preference, but you might want to check out DMM's new light beaners: the Shield and Spectre. Their open gate strength is 10 compared to 8 for petzl spirit and bd neutrinos, and they're still super light. They also come in tons of colors, so you can match them to your cams - makes me happy. I went with Spectres because sometimes I use a 10.4 rope, and the Shield beaners have a constricted rope bucket that looks about 9.7 or <10 anyway. The Shield are a gram lighter though.

DMM makes 10Kn legume pickers? Dude, the guy has a pile of biners already...why would he go get more?


samanddusti


Jul 5, 2005, 5:40 PM
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hey sumo,

How much did you spend on that rack??

just curious(ballpark it)


sbaclimber


Jul 5, 2005, 7:00 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Even if it meant spending more than 2x as much?

DMM cams: 30 bucks
Camalots: 62 bucks.

I'd take the double rack. 8^)

man, i'm in love with the C4's, they're just so awesome. but those are some hard numbers to argue with!

you seem to have a pretty solid base with the C4's, so it may not be a bad idea to start filling in the spaces and doubling with DMM.
I would have to agree. I am a BD man all the way, so I dont let things like weight or cost influence my purchase choices :lol: :wink: (see here ), but I do have one DMM cam and would recommend it to just about anyone. It is lighter and cheaper than BDs by far. It seems slightly less stable, but not noticably, and the profile is a bit wider (2x stem), but all-in-all it is a kick-ass piece of gear.


andrewbanandrew


Aug 1, 2005, 7:49 PM
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In reply to:
Sumner, quit wasting your $$$ on overpriced BD stuff. Trango Superflies are lighter, bigger, and cheaper than those neutrinos! You should check out the DMM 4cu cams currently $29.95 @ rei, or the older Trango Flexcams, 29.99 @ rockempire.com as well. Get the 3 or four smallest tricams, and i'd recomend a few of the mid-sized WC curved hexes, slung on dyneema, say sizes 4-7. Through ebay and the cc.com classifieds I was able to get the 6 smallest tricams, and all the WC hexes for $85, so keep your eyes open. By the way, Beacon Rock re-opens for climbing sometime in July (after a spring closure to protect bird nests), go out there. PM me for climbs or other specific beta. There are some wonderful trad lines @ Beacon.
-Blake

He's not wasting his money, it's all BD for a reason...


hammerhead


Aug 2, 2005, 7:21 AM
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Get a helmet!


memory_hole


Aug 3, 2005, 11:41 AM
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In reply to:
He's not wasting his money, it's all BD for a reason...
What's the reason? Prodeal?


highandexposed


Aug 3, 2005, 8:15 PM
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If you dont feel like rapping off 60$ cams, then invest in some hexes.

www.mtntools.com


sumo


Aug 12, 2005, 7:01 PM
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http://students.washington.edu/sumo/racks/sumo.JPG

http://students.washington.edu/sumo/racks/sumo1.JPG

Already have a helmet

thanks for the input

s


ping


Aug 13, 2005, 11:31 AM
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Congratulations on what a beautiful rack. When I bought my rack it took six months of piecemeal acquisitions but I got the gear that I wanted and I haven't regretted it for a minute.


jcantor


Aug 13, 2005, 5:25 PM
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holy F dude...not to knock ur rack...which is pretty sweet...but don't listen to what ppl say to get on here and then just go buy it...go out and climb...then see where there's gaps that need to be filled


littlecheetah


Sep 3, 2005, 9:12 PM
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WOW!!

What a cool rack, you must be one sexy trad climber...wish I could see a full body shot with that gear on your harness or even a gear sling *wink*


stzzo


Sep 3, 2005, 11:17 PM
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cheatah brings up a good point: gear sling. I climbed for a long time without one, and actually hated using one vs racking on my harness, but now I prefer to use one. I like the single-sided Metolius sling with the separate loops. Though, a double-sided one would be pretty cool, too. try before you buy, though, unless you're made of money. gearexpress.com had some blems on their blowout list.

And get some colored electrical tape or rack tags to mark your stuff - or nail polish - something...


paulc


Sep 4, 2005, 12:36 AM
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Someone else pointed out that you probably want a second cordelette, but not if your partner has one. I'd say you should look into what you need for rescue applications, a second cordelette is a good thing to have. Prusics/slings bail biner or quicklink, rap ring etc. come to mind as well. Know how to use it when the sh!t hits the fan.

As noted also can't go wrong with a brain bucket. No sense in wasting that college education is there?

Have fun and climb safe.

Paul


kachoong


Sep 4, 2005, 12:50 AM
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....Oh, look at all the pretty colours.... 8^)

....you're at college and you can afford such a rack?.... damn.... :wtf: don't mind me, I'm just jealous.... I work and still can't afford such gear....

....one question though.... have you actually climbed on that stuff in three months, or do you just sit and look at it and take pictures of it? :wink: ....again, don't mind me, I'm just jealous....

....If I were you I'd be gettin' some tri-cams, prussiks, more stoppers and some hexes.... :righton:


stymingersfink


Sep 5, 2005, 3:23 PM
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In reply to:
what do you think? ha

I think daddy won't even notice the charges. :P

Really though, nice choice on the Posi-wire QD's.

The lockers should replace the wiregate side of the draw however, for use where one would worry about the rope unclipping itself in the event of a fall. :wink: There is a decreased incidence of the QD unclipping itself from the protection, though that too is within the realm of possibility. This is why the use of bent gate 'biners to clip the bolt/protection side of the equation is frowned upon. I would stick with the original positron 'biner.

I can't recommend using a key-lock 'biner to rack nuts on either. I would recommend using a wiregate 'biner, though another favorite racking 'biner is a bootied DMM Tru-Klip. In your case i would use the two free'd up by the posi-lockers.

Nice rack, BTW. Fill in with a blue alien, couple double length runners and an extra 1/2 set of nuts in the 4-9 range you're geared to get up nearly anything. The trick is getting off.


doaner


Sep 16, 2005, 10:21 PM
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Shit... How much would all of that cost?


mrtristan


Sep 16, 2005, 10:37 PM
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In reply to:
I can't recommend using a key-lock 'biner to rack nuts on either.

I can. I rack mine on one and love it. Wouldn't have it any other way.

-Tristan


4togo


Sep 17, 2005, 12:16 AM
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What I want to know is... how is he going to sling the soccer ball, and what sort of placement does it go in???


tradrenn


Sep 18, 2005, 4:05 PM
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In reply to:
rack phase I

http://students.washington.edu/...kers/rack/newish.JPG

i love new stuff
coulple things might be back ordered because they weren't included :cry:

thanks for everyones input

still looking for more though...

s

May I sugest aome tri cams (2 pink and 1 red) and one more set of stoppers. When you buy your slings, use different color for diff length of your draws. The nut tool you bought is a bit of a pain to use, return this one and get a Metalious one ( the one with the wired binner bild right in)


iamcolinslack


Dec 12, 2005, 11:09 AM
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good game mr. wallet! looks like you kept REI in business!

Ha. Nice rack bro, looks good all around.


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