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musicman


Jul 1, 2005, 10:30 AM
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Even if it meant spending more than 2x as much?

DMM cams: 30 bucks
Camalots: 62 bucks.

I'd take the double rack. 8^)

man, i'm in love with the C4's, they're just so awesome. but those are some hard numbers to argue with!

you seem to have a pretty solid base with the C4's, so it may not be a bad idea to start filling in the spaces and doubling with DMM.


Partner csgambill


Jul 1, 2005, 11:34 AM
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$30's for C4's!? Can I buy my gear through you? I'll pay you a small markup plus shipping!


linguistbreaker


Jul 1, 2005, 11:59 AM
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Cams are obviously a matter of personal preference, but you might want to check out DMM's new light beaners: the Shield and Spectre. Their open gate strength is 10 compared to 8 for petzl spirit and bd neutrinos, and they're still super light. They also come in tons of colors, so you can match them to your cams - makes me happy. I went with Spectres because sometimes I use a 10.4 rope, and the Shield beaners have a constricted rope bucket that looks about 9.7 or <10 anyway. The Shield are a gram lighter though.


cgailey


Jul 1, 2005, 12:25 PM
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Cams are obviously a matter of personal preference, but you might want to check out DMM's new light beaners: the Shield and Spectre. Their open gate strength is 10 compared to 8 for petzl spirit and bd neutrinos, and they're still super light. They also come in tons of colors, so you can match them to your cams - makes me happy. I went with Spectres because sometimes I use a 10.4 rope, and the Shield beaners have a constricted rope bucket that looks about 9.7 or <10 anyway. The Shield are a gram lighter though.

DMM makes 10Kn legume pickers? Dude, the guy has a pile of biners already...why would he go get more?


samanddusti


Jul 5, 2005, 5:40 PM
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hey sumo,

How much did you spend on that rack??

just curious(ballpark it)


sbaclimber


Jul 5, 2005, 7:00 PM
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In reply to:
Even if it meant spending more than 2x as much?

DMM cams: 30 bucks
Camalots: 62 bucks.

I'd take the double rack. 8^)

man, i'm in love with the C4's, they're just so awesome. but those are some hard numbers to argue with!

you seem to have a pretty solid base with the C4's, so it may not be a bad idea to start filling in the spaces and doubling with DMM.
I would have to agree. I am a BD man all the way, so I dont let things like weight or cost influence my purchase choices :lol: :wink: (see here ), but I do have one DMM cam and would recommend it to just about anyone. It is lighter and cheaper than BDs by far. It seems slightly less stable, but not noticably, and the profile is a bit wider (2x stem), but all-in-all it is a kick-ass piece of gear.


andrewbanandrew


Aug 1, 2005, 7:49 PM
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Sumner, quit wasting your $$$ on overpriced BD stuff. Trango Superflies are lighter, bigger, and cheaper than those neutrinos! You should check out the DMM 4cu cams currently $29.95 @ rei, or the older Trango Flexcams, 29.99 @ rockempire.com as well. Get the 3 or four smallest tricams, and i'd recomend a few of the mid-sized WC curved hexes, slung on dyneema, say sizes 4-7. Through ebay and the cc.com classifieds I was able to get the 6 smallest tricams, and all the WC hexes for $85, so keep your eyes open. By the way, Beacon Rock re-opens for climbing sometime in July (after a spring closure to protect bird nests), go out there. PM me for climbs or other specific beta. There are some wonderful trad lines @ Beacon.
-Blake

He's not wasting his money, it's all BD for a reason...


hammerhead


Aug 2, 2005, 7:21 AM
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Get a helmet!


memory_hole


Aug 3, 2005, 11:41 AM
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He's not wasting his money, it's all BD for a reason...
What's the reason? Prodeal?


highandexposed


Aug 3, 2005, 8:15 PM
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If you dont feel like rapping off 60$ cams, then invest in some hexes.

www.mtntools.com


sumo


Aug 12, 2005, 7:01 PM
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http://students.washington.edu/sumo/racks/sumo.JPG

http://students.washington.edu/sumo/racks/sumo1.JPG

Already have a helmet

thanks for the input

s


ping


Aug 13, 2005, 11:31 AM
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Congratulations on what a beautiful rack. When I bought my rack it took six months of piecemeal acquisitions but I got the gear that I wanted and I haven't regretted it for a minute.


jcantor


Aug 13, 2005, 5:25 PM
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holy F dude...not to knock ur rack...which is pretty sweet...but don't listen to what ppl say to get on here and then just go buy it...go out and climb...then see where there's gaps that need to be filled


littlecheetah


Sep 3, 2005, 9:12 PM
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WOW!!

What a cool rack, you must be one sexy trad climber...wish I could see a full body shot with that gear on your harness or even a gear sling *wink*


stzzo


Sep 3, 2005, 11:17 PM
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cheatah brings up a good point: gear sling. I climbed for a long time without one, and actually hated using one vs racking on my harness, but now I prefer to use one. I like the single-sided Metolius sling with the separate loops. Though, a double-sided one would be pretty cool, too. try before you buy, though, unless you're made of money. gearexpress.com had some blems on their blowout list.

And get some colored electrical tape or rack tags to mark your stuff - or nail polish - something...


paulc


Sep 4, 2005, 12:36 AM
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Someone else pointed out that you probably want a second cordelette, but not if your partner has one. I'd say you should look into what you need for rescue applications, a second cordelette is a good thing to have. Prusics/slings bail biner or quicklink, rap ring etc. come to mind as well. Know how to use it when the sh!t hits the fan.

As noted also can't go wrong with a brain bucket. No sense in wasting that college education is there?

Have fun and climb safe.

Paul


kachoong


Sep 4, 2005, 12:50 AM
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....Oh, look at all the pretty colours.... 8^)

....you're at college and you can afford such a rack?.... damn.... :wtf: don't mind me, I'm just jealous.... I work and still can't afford such gear....

....one question though.... have you actually climbed on that stuff in three months, or do you just sit and look at it and take pictures of it? :wink: ....again, don't mind me, I'm just jealous....

....If I were you I'd be gettin' some tri-cams, prussiks, more stoppers and some hexes.... :righton:


stymingersfink


Sep 5, 2005, 3:23 PM
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what do you think? ha

I think daddy won't even notice the charges. :P

Really though, nice choice on the Posi-wire QD's.

The lockers should replace the wiregate side of the draw however, for use where one would worry about the rope unclipping itself in the event of a fall. :wink: There is a decreased incidence of the QD unclipping itself from the protection, though that too is within the realm of possibility. This is why the use of bent gate 'biners to clip the bolt/protection side of the equation is frowned upon. I would stick with the original positron 'biner.

I can't recommend using a key-lock 'biner to rack nuts on either. I would recommend using a wiregate 'biner, though another favorite racking 'biner is a bootied DMM Tru-Klip. In your case i would use the two free'd up by the posi-lockers.

Nice rack, BTW. Fill in with a blue alien, couple double length runners and an extra 1/2 set of nuts in the 4-9 range you're geared to get up nearly anything. The trick is getting off.


doaner


Sep 16, 2005, 10:21 PM
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Shit... How much would all of that cost?


mrtristan


Sep 16, 2005, 10:37 PM
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I can't recommend using a key-lock 'biner to rack nuts on either.

I can. I rack mine on one and love it. Wouldn't have it any other way.

-Tristan


4togo


Sep 17, 2005, 12:16 AM
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What I want to know is... how is he going to sling the soccer ball, and what sort of placement does it go in???


tradrenn


Sep 18, 2005, 4:05 PM
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rack phase I

http://students.washington.edu/...kers/rack/newish.JPG

i love new stuff
coulple things might be back ordered because they weren't included :cry:

thanks for everyones input

still looking for more though...

s

May I sugest aome tri cams (2 pink and 1 red) and one more set of stoppers. When you buy your slings, use different color for diff length of your draws. The nut tool you bought is a bit of a pain to use, return this one and get a Metalious one ( the one with the wired binner bild right in)


iamcolinslack


Dec 12, 2005, 11:09 AM
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good game mr. wallet! looks like you kept REI in business!

Ha. Nice rack bro, looks good all around.

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