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iltripp
Jun 28, 2005, 12:00 AM
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In reply to: Another great problem of that era is the Amazon Face at Curry Village, at mid 5.12, not so hard as ML, but about fifty feet high. Yee ha! JL
Where is that largo?
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kydd76
Jun 28, 2005, 12:04 AM
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is that really dude?
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vivalargo
Jun 29, 2005, 2:33 AM
Post #28 of 34
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In reply to: In reply to: Another great problem of that era is the Amazon Face at Curry Village, at mid 5.12, not so hard as ML, but about fifty feet high. Yee ha! JL Where is that largo?
There's a pretty good workout bouldering area over by Curry Village, just off the road. The Amazon Face (first climbed somewhere around 1974 I think, by a bunch of us) faces Half Dome and is on a dark boulder about 50 feet high. The roadside face of the boulder is lower angled, and as you move round the corner to the Amazon Face the angle steepens to a little more than dead V then less. There's some pretty sketchy, inobvious moves with your feet a solid 15 off the deck, then easier stuff to an easier arete to the top.
Get Werner to show you if you can't find it. Amazon Face was one of the really show stopper boulder problems of the 70s because it was never done with a rope and you couldn't just power it. Technical, crimpy, hard and very high. You don't need a pad for this one--you need a Port-a-Pit.
JL
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slabhappy
Jun 29, 2005, 2:35 AM
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maybe we could get the rangers to install one before i try it??? :lol:
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flowerpowerlover
Jun 30, 2005, 3:41 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: *i heard that sharma cruised to the mantle in flip-flops then jumped off... I heard sharma did like eight one finger dynos in a row to this crazy tongue gaston move! :roll:
seriously, what is the point of posting something like that? are you trying to make me feel dumb?
people are talking on this thread about midnight, and while climbing in the valley, that was a tidbit that i heard and wanted to pass on...
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dingus
Jun 30, 2005, 3:52 PM
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I've never even come clsoe to doing it. Did watch a dude from Modesto do it 3 times in a row barefoot one day. I pretty much quit trying (to pretend) after that.
Forever yours.
DMT
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iltripp
Jun 30, 2005, 4:47 PM
Post #32 of 34
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Another great problem of that era is the Amazon Face at Curry Village, at mid 5.12, not so hard as ML, but about fifty feet high. Yee ha! JL Where is that largo? There's a pretty good workout bouldering area over by Curry Village, just off the road. The Amazon Face (first climbed somewhere around 1974 I think, by a bunch of us) faces Half Dome and is on a dark boulder about 50 feet high. The roadside face of the boulder is lower angled, and as you move round the corner to the Amazon Face the angle steepens to a little more than dead V then less. There's some pretty sketchy, inobvious moves with your feet a solid 15 off the deck, then easier stuff to an easier arete to the top. Get Werner to show you if you can't find it. Amazon Face was one of the really show stopper boulder problems of the 70s because it was never done with a rope and you couldn't just power it. Technical, crimpy, hard and very high. You don't need a pad for this one--you need a Port-a-Pit. JL
Thanks!! I will look for it this weekend. I'm not sure if I'm up for a high-ball of the caliber, but I'd like to see it and at least try it out.
What's it rated at?
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vivalargo
Jun 30, 2005, 5:18 PM
Post #33 of 34
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Registered: Nov 26, 2002
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Another great problem of that era is the Amazon Face at Curry Village, at mid 5.12, not so hard as ML, but about fifty feet high. Yee ha! JL Where is that largo? There's a pretty good workout bouldering area over by Curry Village, just off the road. The Amazon Face (first climbed somewhere around 1974 I think, by a bunch of us) faces Half Dome and is on a dark boulder about 50 feet high. The roadside face of the boulder is lower angled, and as you move round the corner to the Amazon Face the angle steepens to a little more than dead V then less. There's some pretty sketchy, inobvious moves with your feet a solid 15 off the deck, then easier stuff to an easier arete to the top. Get Werner to show you if you can't find it. Amazon Face was one of the really show stopper boulder problems of the 70s because it was never done with a rope and you couldn't just power it. Technical, crimpy, hard and very high. You don't need a pad for this one--you need a Port-a-Pit. JL Thanks!! I will look for it this weekend. I'm not sure if I'm up for a high-ball of the caliber, but I'd like to see it and at least try it out. What's it rated at?
I think by modern standars it would be around 5.12a/b. But it's not so much the difficulty but the heigth and the fact that you CAN'T FALL or bones will be showing. You can jump off he lower stuff as you work out the moves, but there's a point of no return so you'll want to have the thing sessed out. I do remembr the thing started feling pretty managable once I knew how the moves went, but the rating applies to your first time on it. Most everything gets "easy" once you have the sequence wired.
JL
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maldaly
Jun 30, 2005, 7:52 PM
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Registered: Oct 31, 2002
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I did it in the late 70's/early 80's when the locals had piled up a bunch of wood chips at the base. The landing was actually bouncy and the biggest hazard was splinters so I laid down my beach towel. As I recall there wasn't much of a problem getting to the lip and the business was committing to the move through the lip. It wasn't as much of a mantle as a rock-over onto a high foot. We called it B2. V-grades didn't exist and it was right in the middle of the difficulty of the B2's we were doing at Horsetooth at the time. Now those HT problems are rated V6-V9. Still one of the best problems on the planet.
Mal
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