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caughtinside
Aug 3, 2005, 6:15 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I use quickdraws when I dont feel like deracking slings from my shoulder -- where they belong. So D.I.E. how often are you falling on your gear? Falling or HANGING??? 'chuckle'
The truth comes out! Dirt you sportard! :P
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dirtineye
Aug 3, 2005, 6:16 PM
Post #27 of 107
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In reply to: I use quickdraws when I dont feel like deracking slings from my shoulder -- where they belong. So D.I.E. how often are you falling on your gear?
If you look around the site at the threads about falling on gear, you'll get an answer.
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jt512
Aug 3, 2005, 6:35 PM
Post #29 of 107
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In reply to: There is no reason to take a quick draw on a trad climb.
I can think of two reasons: they are less bulky than so-called trad draws, and you never have to flip the biners around to clip them.
In reply to: On the other hand, here are a few things you can't do with a QD: 1. Can't make an alpine clutch. 2. Can't make a rappel backup. 3. Can't make any of the friction knots to ascend or belay escape. 4. Can't sling a horn, flake edge, or dinner plate.
These are arguments against carrying quick draws exclusively, but who does that?
-Jay
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esoteric1
Aug 3, 2005, 7:18 PM
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i cary both as well,
i generaly dont clip nuts to sport draws because of how short they are...when you climb above em the rope tends to wiggle at the placement...sometimes wiggleing it out of its optimal placement. so if the route wanders at all, and you fall, the rope wants to go as straight as possible, sometimes lifting the nut out of its slot, generaly when i put a qd on a placement, its either a solid cam after the route has started to straighten out, or to clip a bolt on a face section...dont ya just love it when you place a piece over your head and extend it out only to have the bottom beener at your feet? thats trad climbing sometimes, ive had too many pieces zipper out on a fall to be comfortable putting draws on all my pieces....hell, do what ya wanna do though....my wafa is expired anyways....
mark
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dirtineye
Aug 3, 2005, 7:35 PM
Post #31 of 107
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In reply to: In reply to: There is no reason to take a quick draw on a trad climb. I can think of two reasons: they are less bulky than so-called trad draws, and you never have to flip the biners around to clip them.
The bulk of a tripled runner vs a quick draw is not worth discussing. Flipping biners around is also a non-issue for me.
In reply to: In reply to: On the other hand, here are a few things you can't do with a QD: 1. Can't make an alpine clutch. 2. Can't make a rappel backup. 3. Can't make any of the friction knots to ascend or belay escape. 4. Can't sling a horn, flake edge, or dinner plate. These are arguments against carrying quick draws exclusively, but who does that? -Jay
Well, let's say you have used up your slings and you have your three QD left, and you need to sling a horn. [Voice of Karl Mauldin] What will you do? WHAT WILL YOU DO??? [/Voice of Karl Mauldin]
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caughtinside
Aug 3, 2005, 7:40 PM
Post #32 of 107
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In reply to: Well, let's say you have used up your slings and you have your three QD left, and you need to sling a horn. [Voice of Karl Mauldin] What will you do? WHAT WILL YOU DO??? [/Voice of Karl Mauldin]
Well, since you always know what you're doing that doesn't happen now, does it? Duh! :P
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dirtineye
Aug 3, 2005, 7:45 PM
Post #33 of 107
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: I use quickdraws when I dont feel like deracking slings from my shoulder -- where they belong. So D.I.E. how often are you falling on your gear? Falling or HANGING??? 'chuckle' The truth comes out! Dirt you sportard! :P
Tenn-dud,
Why you miserable sniveling ungratefull little punk! I demand satisfaction! Drag your sorry butt up here from FLA and we'll see who's hanging on gear. No musical ropes this time, little buddy! The BSF awaits, PUNK. I took a girl up Suicide Blonde, so I THINK you could make it, hehehe.
Caughtinzipper,
BLASPHEMER!!!! How dare you accuse me of bolt clipping!
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caughtinside
Aug 3, 2005, 7:47 PM
Post #34 of 107
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In reply to: Caughtinzipper, BLASPHEMER!!!! How dare you accuse me of bolt clipping!
Perhaps you prefer the term 'tard wanker?' :P
Hangdogging... I bet in spandex no less! :lol:
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dirtineye
Aug 3, 2005, 7:53 PM
Post #35 of 107
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In reply to: In reply to: Caughtinzipper, BLASPHEMER!!!! How dare you accuse me of bolt clipping! Perhaps you prefer the term 'tard wanker?' :P Hangdogging... I bet in spandex no less! :lol:
IF I were going to take up something as gay as sport climbing, I'd need a set of those red and white spiral striped lycra tights, yes-indeedledy-do.
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jelliott
Aug 3, 2005, 8:13 PM
Post #36 of 107
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Caughtinzipper, BLASPHEMER!!!! How dare you accuse me of bolt clipping! Perhaps you prefer the term 'tard wanker?' :P Hangdogging... I bet in spandex no less! :lol: IF I were going to take up something as gay as sport climbing, I'd need a set of those red and white spiral striped lycra tights, yes-indeedledy-do. |
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jt512
Aug 3, 2005, 8:21 PM
Post #37 of 107
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: There is no reason to take a quick draw on a trad climb. I can think of two reasons: they are less bulky than so-called trad draws, and you never have to flip the biners around to clip them. The bulk of a tripled runner vs a quick draw is not worth discussing.
The bulk of a dozen is.
In reply to: Flipping biners around is also a non-issue for me.
Try climbing something harder than 5.4.
In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: On the other hand, here are a few things you can't do with a QD: 1. Can't make an alpine clutch. 2. Can't make a rappel backup. 3. Can't make any of the friction knots to ascend or belay escape. 4. Can't sling a horn, flake edge, or dinner plate. These are arguments against carrying quick draws exclusively, but who does that? -Jay Well, let's say you have used up your slings and you have your three QD left, and you need to sling a horn. [Voice of Karl Mauldin] What will you do?
Use my prussik loops, which is what I'd do for 2 and 3 (and maybe 1, if I knew what that was) anyway.
-Jay
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jelliott
Aug 3, 2005, 8:31 PM
Post #38 of 107
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Edited due to ignorance and my own stupidity
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jelliott
Aug 3, 2005, 8:32 PM
Post #39 of 107
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WTF is an alpine clutch??
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caughtinside
Aug 3, 2005, 8:40 PM
Post #40 of 107
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In reply to: WTF is an alpine clutch??
Kleimheist? :?
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dirtineye
Aug 3, 2005, 8:44 PM
Post #41 of 107
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: There is no reason to take a quick draw on a trad climb. I can think of two reasons: they are less bulky than so-called trad draws, and you never have to flip the biners around to clip them. The bulk of a tripled runner vs a quick draw is not worth discussing. The bulk of a dozen is.
Now just a minute here, you were saying a MIX of slings and draws, now it's 12??? make up your mind.
In reply to: In reply to: Flipping biners around is also a non-issue for me. Try climbing something harder than 5.4.
Are you kidding?? 5.5 is scarrrry! I might fall.
In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: On the other hand, here are a few things you can't do with a QD: 1. Can't make an alpine clutch. 2. Can't make a rappel backup. 3. Can't make any of the friction knots to ascend or belay escape. 4. Can't sling a horn, flake edge, or dinner plate. These are arguments against carrying quick draws exclusively, but who does that? -Jay Well, let's say you have used up your slings and you have your three QD left, and you need to sling a horn. [Voice of Karl Mauldin] What will you do? Use my prussik loops, which is what I'd do for 2 and 3 (and maybe 1, if I knew what that was) anyway. -Jay
1. Your prussik loops might not be long enough to sling a horn.
2. If they are, what if you have to prussik then?
You don't know what an alpine clutch is? Think Garda. Hehe, well you generally need your prussiks when you use an alpine clutch anyway.
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jammer
Aug 3, 2005, 8:45 PM
Post #42 of 107
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Caughtinzipper, BLASPHEMER!!!! How dare you accuse me of bolt clipping! Perhaps you prefer the term 'tard wanker?' :P Hangdogging... I bet in spandex no less! :lol: IF I were going to take up something as gay as sport climbing, I'd need a set of those red and white spiral striped lycra tights, yes-indeedledy-do.
:shock: AHHHHH !!! My Minds Eye!! It's Burning! Got ... to ... delete ... the ... image ... OK ... Better now! :lol:
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jt512
Aug 3, 2005, 8:51 PM
Post #43 of 107
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In reply to: There is no reason to take a quick draw on a trad climb.
Here's the real reason we're having this argument: I own 42 quickdraws (that I know of) and you don't. If you think I'm going to go out and spend more money on slings, you're nuts.
-Jay
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dirtineye
Aug 3, 2005, 9:00 PM
Post #44 of 107
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In reply to: In reply to: There is no reason to take a quick draw on a trad climb. Here's the real reason we're having this argument: I own 42 quickdraws (that I know of) and you don't. If you think I'm going to go out and spend more money on slings, you're nuts. -Jay
What in the hell do you do with 42 QDs?
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caughtinside
Aug 3, 2005, 9:03 PM
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In reply to: What in the hell do you do with 42 QDs?
Send the superproj? :shock:
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jt512
Aug 3, 2005, 9:06 PM
Post #46 of 107
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: There is no reason to take a quick draw on a trad climb. Here's the real reason we're having this argument: I own 42 quickdraws (that I know of) and you don't. If you think I'm going to go out and spend more money on slings, you're nuts. -Jay What in the hell do you do with 42 QDs?
The main reason I have so many draws is that a sponsored kid at my gym recently sold me 12 for a total of $40. It was too good a deal to pass up. However, I currently have semi-permanent draws hanging on two routes, and still have enough draws left over to hang draws on two more routes.
-Jay
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caughtinside
Aug 3, 2005, 9:12 PM
Post #47 of 107
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You can leave draws on a project in SoCal for longer than 10 minutes, and they don't get jacked? Will wonders never cease!
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fracture
Aug 3, 2005, 9:39 PM
Post #48 of 107
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In reply to: You can leave draws on a project in SoCal for longer than 10 minutes, and they don't get jacked? Will wonders never cease!
I'm jealous.
You generally can't leave draws up at my local crag and expect to see them there when you come back. (Depending slightly on which wall you try it at.) :( :(
Oh, and I also want 42 draws. What a nice number. ;)
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jt512
Aug 3, 2005, 9:43 PM
Post #49 of 107
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In reply to: You can leave draws on a project in SoCal for longer than 10 minutes, and they don't get jacked? Will wonders never cease!
They are quick-linked to the bolts.
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blondgecko
Moderator
Aug 4, 2005, 3:53 AM
Post #50 of 107
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In reply to: There is no reason to take a quick draw on a trad climb. On the other hand, here are a few things you can't do with a QD: 1. Can't make an alpine clutch. 2. Can't make a rappel backup. 3. Can't make any of the friction knots to ascend or belay escape.
... funny, I carry a couple of prusiks with me for this. Using a spectra or dyneema sling to make a prusik knot would be a pretty scary experience that I think you'd only try once.
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