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Quickdraws in Traditional climbing
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tradmanclimbs


Aug 6, 2005, 12:17 AM
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For the record Wide and gay is a term that one of my partners uses for hard wide cracks. he is verry fkn good at climbing them so INMOP he can call them whatever he wants 8^) It is certainly not meant as a slight to anyone of any alturnitive sexual persuasion. Dirtbrains wide rack does look too shiny to belong to a real climber though :lol:


ambler


Aug 6, 2005, 12:35 AM
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I remember hearing the word "quickdraw" used in Yosemite in the 80s to refer to short tied runners carried on the rack with two biners already attached.
The term is at least a decade older than that. Jim Erickson was using it by the early 70s in Eldo, to describe a short, tied sling of 9/16" tubular webbing, doubled with two biners so it hung at about the length of a modern sport quickdraw. These "quickdraws" were particularly useful for low-leverage clips of small wired nuts, or for fast clips of the questionable fixed pitons and bolts that protected many classic Eldo 5.10s.


dirtineye


Aug 6, 2005, 5:29 AM
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For the record Wide and gay is a term that one of my partners uses for hard wide cracks. he is verry fkn good at climbing them so INMOP he can call them whatever he wants 8^) It is certainly not meant as a slight to anyone of any alturnitive sexual persuasion. Dirtbrains wide rack does look too shiny to belong to a real climber though :lol:

Gee tardman, I guess I am not a real climber then. Too bad a few of my FAs are a higher grade than anything you have listed in your profile. I guess then if I am not a real climber, you must be something less.

YOU gotta work on your flamage pal, it's weak.


ajkclay


Aug 6, 2005, 12:57 PM
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Gee tardman, I guess I am not a real climber then. Too bad a few of my FAs are a higher grade than anything you have listed in your profile. I guess then if I am not a real climber, you must be something less.

YOU gotta work on your flamage pal, it's weak.

ha ha HA HA HA HA HA HA HA FUCKING HAAAA!!!!

This piece of bullshit was written by some fucker who has NO climbs listed in his profile so no-one can know how pathetic his dumb lying ass is!

And yet I bet he tries to say something about how he just hasn't posted them!

Fuck off you lying piece of shit, if you have no climbs posted in your profile how the hell do you justify criticising someone who does? And before you bother playing with your dick by telling us that you really have climbed harder, how do you know that he has posted his hardest climbs, maybe he has just ticked the ones that are listed dickhead!

In fact, from looking at your profile, you have really contributed nothing to this website other than a load of bullshit... no personal climbs, no routes (which one would expect you would have if you had FA's, and anything positve to contribute), no gear (except a photo which could be of anyone's rack), no reviews, very average photos of one person climbing a 5.7 with no photos of you trying something so hard. You're more full of shit than a 30 year old septic tank.

You say tradman's flames are weak, yours are based on lies and bullshit! That's not a flame, it's the ramblings of some needledick who thinks he can make up for shortcomings in the trouser department by pretending to be a hardman of climbing!

Edit: Fucking poser! Off to the killfile for you, I aint wasting any more of my time reading shit from tosspots with nothing positve to add to this site.


krisp


Aug 6, 2005, 2:09 PM
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Hi ,
clueless wanker here! Thanks a lot dirt . Last time I try to play on your team. "wanker"... thats none of your bussiness, "clueless"... I beg to differ! I may not have a lot of experience but I do understand the discussion. Jeezus you guys are a hard ass bunch. I was trying to agree with you! Mostly 'cause nobody else does. Never mind, your beating this one into the ground anyway.

yes, you are truly clueless. ....

IT's true, Once in a While, you can clip directly or very short, without running the risk of screwing up the placement but most people don't really understand when that is. .

And you are a jackass!

Hmm... "Once in a while..." I think that was everyone else's point, Jackass! Your whole point was it's NEVER ok. Way to stick to your guns, Jackass! I guess the Jackass is the only climber in the world with the supreme power to know when its ok.


dirtineye


Aug 6, 2005, 3:06 PM
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Gee tardman, I guess I am not a real climber then. Too bad a few of my FAs are a higher grade than anything you have listed in your profile. I guess then if I am not a real climber, you must be something less.

YOU gotta work on your flamage pal, it's weak.

ha ha HA HA HA HA HA HA HA f---ing HAAAA!!!!

This piece of s--- was written by some f--- who has NO climbs listed in his profile so no-one can know how pathetic his dumb lying ass is!

And yet I bet he tries to say something about how he just hasn't posted them!

f--- off you lying piece of s---, if you have no climbs posted in your profile how the hell do you justify criticising someone who does? And before you bother playing with your dick by telling us that you really have climbed harder, how do you know that he has posted his hardest climbs, maybe he has just ticked the ones that are listed dickhead!

In fact, from looking at your profile, you have really contributed nothing to this website other than a load of s---... no personal climbs, no routes (which one would expect you would have if you had FA's, and anything positve to contribute), no gear (except a photo which could be of anyone's rack), no reviews, very average photos of one person climbing a 5.7 with no photos of you trying something so hard. You're more full of s--- than a 30 year old septic tank.

You say tradman's flames are weak, yours are based on lies and s---! That's not a flame, it's the ramblings of some needledick who thinks he can make up for shortcomings in the trouser department by pretending to be a hardman of climbing!

Edit: f---ing poser! Off to the killfile for you, I aint wasting any more of my time reading s--- from tosspots with nothing positve to add to this site.
\

You really are pathetic. What are you, all of 12 years old? As if posting pics or registering climbs on a website means anything at all, gimme a break, you puking pud-pounder.


Thanks for killfileing me!


tradmanclimbs


Aug 6, 2005, 3:40 PM
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Gee Dirtpuss, I merly pointed out that you have a lot of shiny new looking gear to go with your big mouth :roll: Real climberz ain't scared of quickdraws 8^)


dirtineye


Aug 6, 2005, 10:04 PM
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hate to break it to you tardman, but shiny or no, some of that gear has been up harder climbs than you have.


foxtrotuniform


Aug 6, 2005, 11:00 PM
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Gee tardman, I guess I am not a real climber then. Too bad a few of my FAs are a higher grade than anything you have listed in your profile. I guess then if I am not a real climber, you must be something less.

YOU gotta work on your flamage pal, it's weak.

ha ha HA HA HA HA HA HA HA f---ing HAAAA!!!!

This piece of s--- was written by some f--- who has NO climbs listed in his profile so no-one can know how pathetic his dumb lying ass is!

And yet I bet he tries to say something about how he just hasn't posted them!

f--- off you lying piece of s---, if you have no climbs posted in your profile how the hell do you justify criticising someone who does? And before you bother playing with your dick by telling us that you really have climbed harder, how do you know that he has posted his hardest climbs, maybe he has just ticked the ones that are listed dickhead!

In fact, from looking at your profile, you have really contributed nothing to this website other than a load of s---... no personal climbs, no routes (which one would expect you would have if you had FA's, and anything positve to contribute), no gear (except a photo which could be of anyone's rack), no reviews, very average photos of one person climbing a 5.7 with no photos of you trying something so hard. You're more full of s--- than a 30 year old septic tank.

You say tradman's flames are weak, yours are based on lies and s---! That's not a flame, it's the ramblings of some needledick who thinks he can make up for shortcomings in the trouser department by pretending to be a hardman of climbing!

Edit: f---ing poser! Off to the killfile for you, I aint wasting any more of my time reading s--- from tosspots with nothing positve to add to this site.

Looks like you've still got it Curt. This dude about blew a gasket.


tradmanclimbs


Aug 6, 2005, 11:07 PM
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that ain't no big deal :roll: half the punks fresh out of the gym crank harder than i do 8^) just because you are strong don't mean you know your feces :D these days i don't climb at all. I tore my rotator cuff again 2 weeks ago which is the only reason that i am even engageing in this drivel :roll: So since you are such a bad ass and chickenshit to use a draw what is the farthest out and most scetch piece you have ever hand drilled a bolt from :twisted:


dirtineye


Aug 7, 2005, 12:21 AM
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HEHEHEHEHEHE gaggle, gasp, pant,..... %(W*%EFH$W( bunubububububububububububadubah...
Rant rave drool slobber..... gooble goobble goo!!

Looks like you've still got it Curt. This dude about blew a gasket.

HEHE, kind of takes you back, don't it? Did you get your rope back?


dirtineye


Aug 7, 2005, 12:39 AM
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that ain't no big deal :roll: half the punks fresh out of the gym crank harder than i do 8^) just because you are strong don't mean you know your feces :D these days i don't climb at all. I tore my rotator cuff again 2 weeks ago which is the only reason that i am even engageing in this drivel :roll: So since you are such a bad ass and s--- to use a draw what is the farthest out and most scetch piece you have ever hand drilled a bolt from :twisted:

Ah yes, the gym punks. I have boulder punks where I live-- some of my little buddies obsess on a v9 and work it for months til they can do it. THe single mindedness of youth. The same guys won;t touch a highball though, so it works out.

Sorry about your cuff, I'm taking care of a broken elbow myself. The day before I broke it I was cleaning a rather overgrown overhanging wet offwidth on lead. A friend swears it's at least 5.11. that same friend put up most of the evil routes in the BSF in tennessee, so I guess he knows. I broke it falling off a tow truck BTW.

I'm not much of a bolter, someone else gets that job. It's best to let your friends have the lead when hand drilling is involved. I usually just climb over shyte gear, sometimes in terror.


tradmanclimbs


Aug 7, 2005, 1:16 AM
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I did the rotator cuff doing stupid people tricks off of a rope swing. can't get much more redneck than that unless you fall off a freaking tow truck :twisted: I would ventuer a guess that both of our current cranky dispositions are influenced by not being able to climb due to injurys :evil:


ajkclay


Aug 8, 2005, 12:09 AM
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Gee tardman, I guess I am not a real climber then. Too bad a few of my FAs are a higher grade than anything you have listed in your profile. I guess then if I am not a real climber, you must be something less.

YOU gotta work on your flamage pal, it's weak.

ha ha HA HA HA HA HA HA HA f---ing HAAAA!!!!

This piece of s--- was written by some f--- who has NO climbs listed in his profile so no-one can know how pathetic his dumb lying ass is!

And yet I bet he tries to say something about how he just hasn't posted them!

f--- off you lying piece of s---, if you have no climbs posted in your profile how the hell do you justify criticising someone who does? And before you bother playing with your dick by telling us that you really have climbed harder, how do you know that he has posted his hardest climbs, maybe he has just ticked the ones that are listed dickhead!

In fact, from looking at your profile, you have really contributed nothing to this website other than a load of s---... no personal climbs, no routes (which one would expect you would have if you had FA's, and anything positve to contribute), no gear (except a photo which could be of anyone's rack), no reviews, very average photos of one person climbing a 5.7 with no photos of you trying something so hard. You're more full of s--- than a 30 year old septic tank.

You say tradman's flames are weak, yours are based on lies and s---! That's not a flame, it's the ramblings of some needledick who thinks he can make up for shortcomings in the trouser department by pretending to be a hardman of climbing!

Edit: f---ing poser! Off to the killfile for you, I aint wasting any more of my time reading s--- from tosspots with nothing positve to add to this site.

Looks like you've still got it Curt. This dude about blew a gasket.


No, there's a difference between using some exclamation marks and strong langauge and blowing a gasket.

In actual fact it took me a minute to write and then I forgot about it... it's the internet remember?

He is on my killfile though, I was serious about him being a dickhead, it's pretty irresponsible to be giving out advice about the safety of things which may cause someone to second-guess their own judgement next time they are climbing just for the sake of a troll.


curt


Aug 8, 2005, 12:50 AM
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Hey dirtcurt,

I know alpnclmbr1. I have climbed with alpnclmbr1. alpnclmbr1 is a friend of mine. And you, sir, are no alpnclmbr1. You did quite a fine job of stirring the shit up here, though. Nice. :lol:

Curt


dirtineye


Aug 8, 2005, 2:03 AM
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He is on my killfile though, I was serious about him being a dickhead, it's pretty irresponsible to be giving out advice about the safety of things which may cause someone to second-guess their own judgement next time they are climbing just for the sake of a troll.

God you are a moron. IT's precisely inexperienced climbers who get into trouble short clipping, which is what YOU are calling safe. safe it may be sometimes, but anyone who knows much knows that short clipped pieces walk, lift, and screw up in other ways. People hit the ground because they short clip when inadviseable.

A tripled sling is a fine thing to short clip with when you need to, adn it has muhc greater versatility over the queer draw.

You wouldn't know a troll if one bit you on the ass.


dirtineye


Aug 8, 2005, 2:05 AM
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I did the rotator cuff doing stupid people tricks off of a rope swing. can't get much more redneck than that unless you fall off a freaking tow truck :twisted: I would ventuer a guess that both of our current cranky dispositions are influenced by not being able to climb due to injurys :evil:

One again proving that climbing is much safer that most things.

I'm definitely cranky because of the thre months sitting around not climbing, and now the months of torture to get the stupid elbow to work right again.


dirtineye


Aug 8, 2005, 2:12 AM
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Hey dirtcurt,

I know alpnclmbr1. I have climbed with alpnclmbr1. alpnclmbr1 is a friend of mine. And you, sir, are no alpnclmbr1. You did quite a fine job of stirring the s--- up here, though. Nice. :lol:

Curt

We do what we can.

I love Loyd Benson parody quotes.

I hope alpnclmbr1 is doing better.


curt


Aug 8, 2005, 2:42 AM
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....I love Loyd Benson parody quotes...

It's Lloyd Bentsen. God, this thread so desperately needs to be hijacked. :wink:

Curt


gnat


Aug 8, 2005, 3:21 PM
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...I was cleaning a rather overgrown overhanging wet offwidth on lead. A friend swears it's at least 5.11.

At least 5.11! Wow, you must be hardcore.


dirtineye


Aug 8, 2005, 3:37 PM
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...I was cleaning a rather overgrown overhanging wet offwidth on lead. A friend swears it's at least 5.11.

At least 5.11! Wow, you must be hardcore.

Yawn.

Get back under your bridge, and try to stay out of people's eyes.


el_jerko


Aug 8, 2005, 11:09 PM
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Hate to interrupt the pissing match but… I NEVER take quick draws on trad climbs. I don’t think there is anything wrong with using draws, but when everything is taken into consideration I personally do not feel that they are the best choice. Here is why:

As was stated earlier in the thread slings are much more versatile than draws. This really hit home for me when I started studying self rescue techniques. A sling can be used for a lot more than extending a piece.

When extending pieces, I feel like slings work better due to the stiffer nature and shorter length of sewn draws.

Slings simplify the rack. You could take slings and draws, but it is easier to organize and quickly find slings of several lengths than slings and draws of several lengths. For me the difference between making it and falling on a challenging route generally hinges on how fast I can get good placements in and move on.

I try to take as little gear as I can get by with and I find that slings make for a lighter rack. Yes, they may be a bit bulkier but taking all slings is still going to be less gear than slings and draws when racking up for an unknown pitch. Try it for yourself and you will see.

This is personal preference, but what I generally rack up with is two 48” slings, 8 24” slings, and four 12” slings. One or two of the 24” slings will be nylon (in case I need a friction knot or a leaver sling) and the rest spectra. The longer slings I rig like extendable draws with two biners, and on the 12” slings I use a single biner. I mostly use the 12” draws to extend cams (hence the single biner). They are also nice for equalizing two pieces of gear that are right next to each other. And by adding a free biner they do of course make a handy draw.

If a person has plenty of slings I don’t see any reason why they would use draws.


caughtinside


Aug 8, 2005, 11:14 PM
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If a person has plenty of slings I don’t see any reason why they would use draws.

I don't know how you can say that after you preach the virtues of a 12" loop. They're practically the same thing! I carry the same number of slings as you, I just use 7" draws instead of the 12" loops.


billcoe_


Aug 9, 2005, 12:47 AM
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He is on my killfile though, I was serious about him being a dickhead, it's pretty irresponsible to be giving out advice about the safety of things which may cause someone to second-guess their own judgement next time they are climbing just for the sake of a troll.

God you are a moron. IT's precisely inexperienced climbers who get into trouble short clipping, which is what YOU are calling safe. safe it may be sometimes, but anyone who knows much knows that short clipped pieces walk, lift, and screw up in other ways. People hit the ground because they short clip when inadviseable.

A tripled sling is a fine thing to short clip with when you need to, and it has much greater versatility over the queer draw.

You wouldn't know a troll if one bit you on the ass.



Its rare you see an injury or accident occur due to somebody not clipping a draw on a piece. Normally what I see is that a piece just rips when you fall on it. It is experience that dictates weather you survive this occurrence or not.

How well that piece was placed, how long is the fall? Is the potential fall clean? Where is the next piece? The next Rest? What is the fall potential after the next piece? Do I back this one up? Skip that piece? Run it out?

Coupling those question with how long the route is, how difficult compared to my max grade ability? Is the pro poor? Do I have the pieces I'll need for the rest of the pitch?

These questions are generally of higher precedence over if I have enough draws. Which I rarely have anyway. I've taken to carrying @6-10 (route and area Dependant) 24 " dynema slings which I can undo or triple up as needed.

Clipping a single carabiner to a nut keeps the weight and clusterf*age to a minimum. Both things help you get up harder stuff.

At least that what I believe. Your results appear to have varied. So I don't know about you or anyone else, I'm only speaking for myself.

If you are on a long straight crack that sucks pro, why carry any draws or slings at all? There's really no need.


el_jerko


Aug 9, 2005, 3:45 PM
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caughtinside,

I agree, we are pretty much splitting hairs here, but I do prefer the 12" sling for a couple of reasons:

First, I use them with a single biner so that when I extend a cam there isn't one biner sitting there doing nothing which is what happens with a quickdraw.

Also, they have all the virtues of a sling as far as equalizing, girth hitching, making a prussic etc and a quickdraw does not.

Certainly a quickdraw does the job it was designed for, but given the option I see no reason to use one due to the inherent limitations.

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