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goclimbarock514


Aug 27, 2005, 1:10 PM
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I don't have any cams (hey i"m thirteen, no budget) but I am quite experianced for my age I am looking to buy the trango max cams but I would like any imput from all of the vertans out there who have had years to test thier gear.
Peace
keep climbing


chanceboarder


Aug 27, 2005, 1:19 PM
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check out the gear review section. there are already a bunch of reviews on all the different cams. personally i like the new BD's better then the new Max cams.


smithrockfreek


Aug 27, 2005, 1:22 PM
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what ever you do dont get the max cams...just kidding, i gata say (being your partner and all having to use your gear) get robots at climbaxe because there cheep for one (27.00$) and they're prettymuch the same thing as metoulous cams and 3cu's.

hint hint*

talk to ya later


feanor007


Aug 27, 2005, 1:48 PM
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my lovely red alien


dlintz


Aug 27, 2005, 3:14 PM
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Even though the bulk of my cams are Friends my favorite is the orange Metolius 4-cam....sometimes I sleep with it under my pillow. :P

d.


furrymurry


Aug 27, 2005, 3:24 PM
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I've placed a fair diversity of cams and for larger stuff I've never used anything I like better than my camalots, though I've yet to use the new maxcams.


crackmd


Aug 27, 2005, 5:16 PM
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For granite, Camelots are hard to beat.
For sandstone splitter rigid friends work great and they are much lighter than the older Camelots which matters when you are carrying up to 25 units on your rack.
Aliens are great for small, tweaky placements but can be hard to slam in in desperation because they are so floppy. In a real pinch when the clock is ticking, I would likely reach for a stiffer Metolius or BD small cam. Uh oh, I bashed Aliens; I'm in for it now from the Alien cult.


Partner mr8615


Aug 27, 2005, 5:22 PM
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If you're 'slamming' your cam in because you're in a hurry, let me know where you're climbing cuz I'll come get all of the cams you fix. That said, I love my number 2 camalots.


crackmd


Aug 27, 2005, 5:27 PM
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In reply to:
If you're 'slamming' your cam in because you're in a hurry, let me know where you're climbing cuz I'll come get all of the cams you fix. That said, I love my number 2 camalots.

That's happened once in 15-years bro. If you are going to push hard crack grades you will encounter some desperate placements.


grk10vq


Aug 27, 2005, 5:54 PM
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See Four'z


goclimbarock514


Aug 27, 2005, 6:10 PM
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In reply to:
For granite, Camelots are hard to beat.
For sandstone splitter rigid friends work great and they are much lighter than the older Camelots which matters when you are carrying up to 25 units on your rack.
I'm glad that somebody is buying the ridgid ffriends because I know that I'll never do it. I mean thier great for the perfect strait up and down place ment but you can't place them horizontally unless their in real deep and unless you put huge runner on 'em I found that they tend to walk like a B--ch


tarzan420


Aug 27, 2005, 6:26 PM
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In reply to:
I'm glad that somebody is buying the ridgid ffriends because I know that I'll never do it. I mean thier great for the perfect strait up and down place ment but you can't place them horizontally unless their in real deep and unless you put huge runner on 'em I found that they tend to walk like a B--ch

So what you're saying is, you have to place them properly in order for them to work right?

What a thought.


tarzan420


Aug 27, 2005, 6:28 PM
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oh wow, didn't realize that you were the orig. poster...

I, for one, bought forged friends as my first cams, and they work great. I've never had a problem with them walking any more than any other cam - you just have to place them right.


goclimbarock514


Aug 27, 2005, 6:54 PM
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Thanks for toning down the sarcasm because I'm young, c'mon I don't give a shit and if you're going to get in a fight because I don't like your kind of cam You shouldn't be telling people what kind of gear to get because all of you ideas are going to be totally bias and you may end up pissing off you partner and then you'll end up w no one to climb with, gee that'd be fun!


chalkfree


Aug 27, 2005, 8:06 PM
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Mix it up, buy a bunch of old used gear from somebody that climbed 10 or 15 years ago, suppliment it with some new blems C4's on gear express, and it'll serve you wonderfully.

That said I love my pink tricam. If you don't have one buy two.

If that's not cam enough for you buy a .4 or .5 C4, I'd bet you've got little enough fingers to get yourself into trouble like me.


tenesmus


Aug 27, 2005, 8:08 PM
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In reply to:
If you're 'slamming' your cam in because you're in a hurry, let me know where you're climbing cuz I'll come get all of the cams you fix. That said, I love my number 2 camalots.
That's because its perfect hands!


Partner gunksgoer


Aug 27, 2005, 8:44 PM
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In reply to:
what ever you do dont get the max cams...just kidding, i gata say (being your partner and all having to use your gear) get robots at climbaxe because there cheep for one (27.00$) and they're prettymuch the same thing as metoulous cams and 3cu's.

Have you ever used the metolius or dmm tcus? Rock empire cams seem like worthless scrap metal compared to them, aliens, friends, and camalots. I started piecing together my rack when i was 13, and i saved my money so i could get more expensive, but higher quality gear. Right now im really glad i did, because i really like my rack now.


reno


Aug 27, 2005, 9:47 PM
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The one that caught my last trad lead fall is my favorite at the moment.

Currently, 0.5 WC Friend.

It might change, though.


hairyapeman


Aug 27, 2005, 11:42 PM
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Never buy used gear unless you know the history of them and trust the user with your life! On that note... I love the C4's(BD Camalot's) but past the .4 i would go with the ball nutz. Don't be afraid of going expensive. I know i would never trust something that cost 24.95!(climbaxe...aka death wish) Is your life worth that much? Hell no! It's Worth way more. Buy one cam a month and try to find someone who has more to take you along.


Partner climbinginchico


Aug 28, 2005, 12:59 AM
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Past the .5 I go with aliens, not ballnutz. Easier to place and clean. Until you get to the tiny, microscopic shit. Then ballnutz it is.


fng


Aug 28, 2005, 1:50 AM
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I bought a set of Pulsar cams from rock Empire. I have loved them. If I had to do it over I would by Rock Empire's new single stems with the looped draw/sling. I have a few of them and love them. Great gear at a great price!


akrafty1


Aug 28, 2005, 7:45 AM
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Before you rule out the Forged Friends, you might want to check the forums on how to place them properly in horizontal placements using the tried and true Gunks tie-off. My rack is Forged Friends 1.75-4 and Aliens blue through purple. Lots of horizontal placements here in NC and this combo works great! My favorite cam is the 2.5 Friend by the way.

I also like BD cams and Metolius .The craftsmanship of the 4 manufacturers listed is fantastic. Remember newer does not always equal better, just newer and more money.

Climb On!
Shane


mcfoley


Aug 28, 2005, 9:16 AM
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Camalots .75 to 2...


muslmutt


Aug 28, 2005, 2:18 PM
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I just sold a bunch of cams I bought because they were cheap and other people liked them. They just were not as well made as my camalots,aliens, or friends. I bought 3 more aliens with the money. I find I climb a lot better when I place a cam and think "hell yeah" instead of "I hope this works." Above all I would really rather sink a bomber hex nut that is "oh fricken hell yeah!"


crackmd


Aug 28, 2005, 2:26 PM
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Rigid stem #1.5 and #2 Friends rule when climbing hard splitters at Indian Creek. Go there and you will see what I mean. #0.75 and #1 Camelots also work quite well but are much heavier and this weight can add up when you have 25 CAMS on your rack (I have not used the new C4 units though). Variety is the spice of life! I have many sets of both.


korntera


Aug 28, 2005, 3:53 PM
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If you have no budget and have the experience that you say... Then get some rock empires, yeah they arn't as fancy and cool and light as C4's or Max cams but they are $30 and they are safe.


Partner philbox
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Aug 28, 2005, 4:54 PM
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Camalots and Aliens, end of story.


Partner tattooed_climber


Aug 28, 2005, 5:32 PM
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camalots are surely the most favorite...half of my cams are...

rest are DMM...a good cheap workhorse...i've never placed an alien before...i'm still wanting to get a yellow prehaps to see if i like 'em, but i currently don't have much of a need for them..


chromwells_head


Aug 28, 2005, 5:49 PM
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I have the old forged friends 1 1/2-4 WC flex friends 2,3,4 metolius tcus0&4
trango flex cams 5,6,7,7 and my all time favorite red alien forgto to mention ive been climbing on the old friends for 9 years.


climbappalachia


Aug 29, 2005, 10:07 PM
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Favorite cam?

#2 Camalot, hands down...(no pun intended)

I mean come on the thing is gold!


granite_grrl


Aug 30, 2005, 6:26 AM
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Favorite single cam: yellow Metolious TCU.

I also have an thing for my #3 Camalot.


lucas_timmer


Aug 30, 2005, 7:35 AM
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My favourite cams are the WC Tech friends, there just so pretty, light and smooth.It would have been perfect if they had doubled dyneema slings.

-LT


renohandjams


Aug 30, 2005, 9:00 AM
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My WC Zeros. I just got the largest 3 sizes that are rated for a fall. I love placing them though. I also love my beastie number 6, but I usually don't place it though.


Partner gunksgoer


Aug 30, 2005, 9:05 AM
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Ok, ill answer the original question - but i cant narrow it down to one cam. I really like my grey alien, purple alien, blue alien, red camalot... ok i love my whole rack.


joshlg


Aug 30, 2005, 5:05 PM
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I love my wild country zeros.


devonick


Aug 30, 2005, 5:12 PM
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ive got a real small budget so at the moment i have one cam, and that is a size 1.5 wc forged freind. i love it, i have founf some awsome placements for it at the crag i climb the most.

as with any gear though unless you place it proper it aint going to work regardless, with forged freinds you just have to think about your placements a little more than normal if you had flexifreinds


paganmonkeyboy


Aug 30, 2005, 5:30 PM
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green alien...it's always the green alien...


trevzilla


Aug 30, 2005, 5:39 PM
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Rock Empire all the way. They have the extendable sling (robots do at least) and they have an unbeatable price. Plus, I really like the metolius style double stem, that has a one finger trigger.


schnoz


Aug 30, 2005, 6:01 PM
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My first set of cams were Rock Empire Robot, #1 through #5. They're not as expensive as other cams and will get you going. They aren't the best cam when it comes to expansion range, but they are safe. You've got to love the extendable sling, too.

Nothing beats my #6 Wild Country Zero though. I really need to pick up some of the smaller sizes. I love that little guy.


devonick


Aug 30, 2005, 6:21 PM
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my other favourite cams (even though i have none) are the massive damn near bomb proof BD camalots im not sure what size but the biggest ones, the only bad thing is the lack of large enough cracks for placements


matttracyg


Aug 30, 2005, 7:38 PM
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#1 (Red) Camalot.


vegastradguy


Aug 30, 2005, 7:44 PM
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C4's and Aliens from Blue to Yellow. All are equally happiness inducing.

Hybrid Aliens and BallNutz also make me smile when they are needed.


stabla


Aug 31, 2005, 10:02 AM
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MY FAVE IS THE BLUE or BROWN tri-cam, cheers to C.A.M.P.!!! Or any tri-cam for that matter oh and metolious super cams are gangster.


joeforte


Aug 31, 2005, 10:18 AM
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Is "gangster" a good quality to have in a cam?


stabla


Sep 6, 2005, 11:08 AM
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Yellow #2 Metolious super cam, i call her ole' yeller


billcoe_


Sep 6, 2005, 1:23 PM
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In reply to:
Camalots and Aliens, end of story.

No need to repeat it, but here I go anyway.

In reply to:
Camalots and Aliens, end of story.

C4s

Note: I have heard varying things agout the Metolius Supercams, I have no information one way or the other via personal experience.


forkliftdaddy


Sep 6, 2005, 1:31 PM
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I guess I have four favorite cams in two favorite sizes, really.

Green Alien / Blue TCU
Yellow Alien / Yellow TCU


iamcolinslack


Dec 12, 2005, 11:11 AM
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blue tcu


climbingaggie03


Dec 12, 2005, 1:55 PM
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I like Camalots the best. Aliens are best for smaller sizes

Tech friends, metolius FCU's, and forged friends are good too

I like the trango cams, but i've only held them, never placed em

I think it's better to spend the money and get good gear the first time around, even if you can't buy it as fast as you want, than buy some cheap cams that aren't that great and then buy some good cams that you wanted in the first place.


jimfix


Dec 12, 2005, 2:07 PM
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The latest purchase. Woe is the life of a gear whore, always looking for that next hit.


yakiman


Dec 12, 2005, 2:29 PM
Post #51 of 72 (9131 views)
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Re: What is your favorite cam? [In reply to]
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I use C4's, aliens, Metolius FCU's, and forged Friends. My single favorite cam is the red Metolius FCU. I place that cam on nearly every route I climb. I like the C4 design, but I always find a good placement for that red FCU.

-Yakiman


Partner tim


Dec 12, 2005, 2:33 PM
Post #52 of 72 (9131 views)
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Re: What is your favorite cam? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I think it's better to spend the money and get good gear the first time around, even if you can't buy it as fast as you want, than buy some cheap cams that aren't that great and then buy some good cams that you wanted in the first place.

This is a pretty key point. When your second can't extract a poorly designed cam because the lobe extension range is greater than the trigger can control, you will not be impressed with the savings any more.

You'll note that Forged Friends are cheap and bomber. Kind of hard to beat that by spending $5 or so more per cam on something shoddy. Friends (forged especially) are more demanding of operator skill, but they're probably the cheapest viable option for building up a decent rock of cams.

Newer climbers especially should listen to guys like Mike (crackmd). Unless you already lead long, hard (5.11+) routes on gear and figure there's nothing left for you to learn. I've been climbing for 10 years and I have plenty still to learn.


healyje


Dec 12, 2005, 3:02 PM
Post #53 of 72 (9131 views)
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Re: What is your favorite cam? [In reply to]
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GoClimb,

My favorite cam is the one I need next when I'm leading. That said, I'd say definitely don't go with MaxCams - they may look cool and have various advantages, but funcionally they are an entirely different beast from traditional symmetric cams and I personally don't consider them an appropriate choice for someone just learning to place pro. I'd say Metolius, BD, or any other symmetric cam...


P.S. It's probably not a great idea to post your age anywhere online...


tradrenn


Dec 12, 2005, 6:14 PM
Post #54 of 72 (9131 views)
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Re: What is your favorite cam? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
You'll note that Forged Friends are cheap and bomber. Kind of hard to beat that by spending $5 or so more per cam on something shoddy. Friends (forged especially) are more demanding of operator skill, but they're probably the cheapest viable option for building up a decent rock of cams.

Another option would be to get DMM 4CU. They are almost as cheap as FRIENDS (range is the same for both cams) but with flexible stem and extendable sling on them.

DMMs are easier to place then Friends.


brutusofwyde


Dec 14, 2005, 10:04 AM
Post #55 of 72 (9131 views)
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When your second can't extract a poorly designed cam because the lobe extension range is greater than the trigger can control, you will not be impressed with the savings any more.

Jeeezz... Doesn't your second know how to use a nut tool to extract cams??

In reply to:
I've been climbing for 10 years and I have plenty still to learn.

I've been climbing for 35 years, and am at this time a rank beginner.

Brutus


healyje


Dec 14, 2005, 10:12 AM
Post #56 of 72 (9131 views)
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In reply to:

I've been climbing for 35 years, and am at this time a rank beginner.

Brutus

That is just a bold face lie coming from someone that has and uses as many big cams as you do...


lightrack


Dec 14, 2005, 10:26 AM
Post #57 of 72 (9131 views)
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Re: What is your favorite cam? [In reply to]
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Ive been trad leading about 7 years now...(yes still a gumby)
Favorite= grey alien

Forged friends are WAY better than rockempires and pretty much the same price. (free biner's now)

Ive had a couple of re's but sold em or gave em away, the bigger ones walk and aren't stable (that said my friend has the small tcu's, and they're ok)

Forged friends are awsome!! I keep getting them to supplement my rack (ive got triples in everything atleast...gear whore) Would recomend #2 and up and get flexies for the smaller sizes

Camming units owned consist of: aliens, camalots, metolius, friends...and I want alien offsets...

ive got some HB flexies also (kinda shitty) but they work

summary of post: don't buy rockempire cams...

hope this helps,
patrick

edited to add: "Camming units owned consist of:"


unrooted


Dec 14, 2005, 11:43 AM
Post #58 of 72 (9131 views)
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Re: What is your favorite cam? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Mix it up, buy a bunch of old used gear from somebody that climbed 10 or 15 years ago, suppliment it with some new blems C4's on gear express, and it'll serve you wonderfully.

That said I love my pink tricam. If you don't have one buy two.

If that's not cam enough for you buy a .4 or .5 C4, I'd bet you've got little enough fingers to get yourself into trouble like me.

I hate climbing on mixed racks, it takes twice as long to find the one you need. I prefer Metolius TCU's sized 1 and 2. And All BD C4's. I have played with The new Max, cam and it seems better than most "cheap" cams, but nowhere near the quality of BD. Most of my friends will only buy Metolius or BD. I HATE wildcountry, even though they work well the d-mned thing gets twisted all funny when your trying to clean it.


turfguy


Dec 14, 2005, 3:31 PM
Post #59 of 72 (9131 views)
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Re: What is your favorite cam? [In reply to]
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before you go and drop all your piggy bank on cams i would get my mitts on a few models and see what feels best. i was going to get BD cams but after placing them a few times i found them to be somewhat awkward for me. i decided to go with metolius TCU's and powercams. also remember that pro, in my opinion is one thing you don't want to go cheap on...its valuable life insurance. go with cams with a proven track record, ie BD, wild co., metolius, trango ect... just my .02.


burundanga


Dec 14, 2005, 3:37 PM
Post #60 of 72 (9131 views)
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Re: What is your favorite cam? [In reply to]
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the one that saves my life


brutusofwyde


Dec 14, 2005, 7:46 PM
Post #61 of 72 (9131 views)
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In reply to:
That is just a bold face lie coming from someone that has and uses as many big cams as you do...

Thanks for reminding me, I was having a senior moment and drifted from the thread topic.

My favorite cam is the #9 Valley Giant.

Brutus


bill_in_tokyo


Dec 14, 2005, 10:01 PM
Post #62 of 72 (9131 views)
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Re: What is your favorite cam? [In reply to]
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I carry aliens up to red and camalots above that. Double, when necessary, in the small sizes with metolius tcus and in the larger sizes with rigid stem friends.

Budget and personal preference will govern what you buy, obviously. Try out as many kinds as you can, as much as you can, before you plunk down the bucks.

In the interest of education, I have one thought to offer to the OP. A solid stem friend clipped with a so-called "gunks tie-off" in a horizontal placement is as good as or better than any flexible stem SLCD. For more on the gunks tie-off, see here:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...topic_view=&start=15

Have fun!


sisko


Jan 6, 2006, 5:03 PM
Post #63 of 72 (9131 views)
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I have many, many cams and passives and have enjoyed nearly all of them. For JT and Rubidoux or any other place where flares are common, I've found that the now-discontinued (?) WC Offset Tech Friends are wonderful. I have 2 sets, partly because I enjoy aid.

When I start leading a pitch, my preference is usually for passives to guard against a high-fall factor event.


dudemanbu


Jan 9, 2006, 10:08 PM
Post #64 of 72 (9131 views)
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My favorite cam is the ONLY one i've taken a fall onto, my #5 (blue) WC zero. I also own max cams (.75-3) and can say with confidence that they place the same as symetrical cams. If you place them at the top of their range however, (like with any cam) you're asking for trouble.


asendr


Jan 15, 2006, 2:36 PM
Post #65 of 72 (9131 views)
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My favorite cam is the black metolious fat cam. Hard size for me at I.C.
Black Diamond Camalots for sizes .5 on up, and Metolious for sizes orange on down, both tcu's and fcu's.



I love ringlocks.


daithi


Jan 15, 2006, 4:14 PM
Post #66 of 72 (9131 views)
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In reply to:
What is your favourite cam?

Mine is the orange alien with the dimple and with huge voids in the brazing causing the stem to half hang out. Man that thing is bomber!


skinner


Jan 15, 2006, 6:35 PM
Post #67 of 72 (9131 views)
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By favorite cam.. I assume you meant ":What cams do you prefer" rather then a single cam.

In reply to:
Mine is the orange alien with the dimple and with huge voids in the brazing causing the stem to half hang out. Man that thing is bomber!

I figured this would come out eventually but, if CCH corrects the problem and implements proper QC, I wouldn't hesitate to buy more.

These are my *personal* choices (still optimistic about aliens)

    For
    small horizontal cracks: Aliens
    small vertical cracks: Aliens/Metolius/Trango ball nuts
    medium vertical cracks: Metolious Range Finders
    larger cracks: BD Camalots
    pin scars: Alien Hybrids


*Note Trango ball nuts seem to be bomber in anything you are able to place them in, however they can be a bitch to clean.

It's not just what works, but what works for you. Some people are more comfortable with different trigger mechanisms etc. If you know someone with a diverse rack of cams, you should go out to the rocks with them and try placing and cleaning them- after they have been weighted.


deltav


Jan 22, 2006, 8:31 AM
Post #68 of 72 (9131 views)
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I find that the Trangos feel kida like a toy compared to some of the others. I like my metolius. The new C4s are nice, but don't run out and blow your money on them. Stay away from things like Robots, or Splitter Gear. I have found them to be crap. Remeber, you get what you pay for.


dr_feelgood


Jan 22, 2006, 9:12 AM
Post #69 of 72 (9131 views)
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It's a tie between my #.4 and .75 BD C4 camalot.


rad_dog


Jan 22, 2006, 11:21 AM
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Forged Friends with Bluewater Titan cord through the tie-off holes and no slings in the "normal" holes.


Partner jammer


Jan 22, 2006, 11:21 AM
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I have always had a love afair with the one that held!

Besides that, it's all personal taste.


keithlester
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Jan 22, 2006, 11:40 AM
Post #72 of 72 (9131 views)
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My favorite cam is the one that fits just when I need it most
But I like techy friends best of all my cams


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