Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing:
What is your favorite cam?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Trad Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 3 Next page Last page  View All


yakiman


Dec 12, 2005, 2:29 PM
Post #51 of 72 (9132 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 15, 2005
Posts: 43

Re: What is your favorite cam? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I use C4's, aliens, Metolius FCU's, and forged Friends. My single favorite cam is the red Metolius FCU. I place that cam on nearly every route I climb. I like the C4 design, but I always find a good placement for that red FCU.

-Yakiman


Partner tim


Dec 12, 2005, 2:33 PM
Post #52 of 72 (9132 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 4861

Re: What is your favorite cam? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
I think it's better to spend the money and get good gear the first time around, even if you can't buy it as fast as you want, than buy some cheap cams that aren't that great and then buy some good cams that you wanted in the first place.

This is a pretty key point. When your second can't extract a poorly designed cam because the lobe extension range is greater than the trigger can control, you will not be impressed with the savings any more.

You'll note that Forged Friends are cheap and bomber. Kind of hard to beat that by spending $5 or so more per cam on something shoddy. Friends (forged especially) are more demanding of operator skill, but they're probably the cheapest viable option for building up a decent rock of cams.

Newer climbers especially should listen to guys like Mike (crackmd). Unless you already lead long, hard (5.11+) routes on gear and figure there's nothing left for you to learn. I've been climbing for 10 years and I have plenty still to learn.


healyje


Dec 12, 2005, 3:02 PM
Post #53 of 72 (9132 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204

Re: What is your favorite cam? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

GoClimb,

My favorite cam is the one I need next when I'm leading. That said, I'd say definitely don't go with MaxCams - they may look cool and have various advantages, but funcionally they are an entirely different beast from traditional symmetric cams and I personally don't consider them an appropriate choice for someone just learning to place pro. I'd say Metolius, BD, or any other symmetric cam...


P.S. It's probably not a great idea to post your age anywhere online...


tradrenn


Dec 12, 2005, 6:14 PM
Post #54 of 72 (9132 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 15, 2005
Posts: 2990

Re: What is your favorite cam? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
You'll note that Forged Friends are cheap and bomber. Kind of hard to beat that by spending $5 or so more per cam on something shoddy. Friends (forged especially) are more demanding of operator skill, but they're probably the cheapest viable option for building up a decent rock of cams.

Another option would be to get DMM 4CU. They are almost as cheap as FRIENDS (range is the same for both cams) but with flexible stem and extendable sling on them.

DMMs are easier to place then Friends.


brutusofwyde


Dec 14, 2005, 10:04 AM
Post #55 of 72 (9132 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473

Re: What is your favorite cam? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
When your second can't extract a poorly designed cam because the lobe extension range is greater than the trigger can control, you will not be impressed with the savings any more.

Jeeezz... Doesn't your second know how to use a nut tool to extract cams??

In reply to:
I've been climbing for 10 years and I have plenty still to learn.

I've been climbing for 35 years, and am at this time a rank beginner.

Brutus


healyje


Dec 14, 2005, 10:12 AM
Post #56 of 72 (9132 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204

Re: What is your favorite cam? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:

I've been climbing for 35 years, and am at this time a rank beginner.

Brutus

That is just a bold face lie coming from someone that has and uses as many big cams as you do...


lightrack


Dec 14, 2005, 10:26 AM
Post #57 of 72 (9132 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 46

Re: What is your favorite cam? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Ive been trad leading about 7 years now...(yes still a gumby)
Favorite= grey alien

Forged friends are WAY better than rockempires and pretty much the same price. (free biner's now)

Ive had a couple of re's but sold em or gave em away, the bigger ones walk and aren't stable (that said my friend has the small tcu's, and they're ok)

Forged friends are awsome!! I keep getting them to supplement my rack (ive got triples in everything atleast...gear whore) Would recomend #2 and up and get flexies for the smaller sizes

Camming units owned consist of: aliens, camalots, metolius, friends...and I want alien offsets...

ive got some HB flexies also (kinda shitty) but they work

summary of post: don't buy rockempire cams...

hope this helps,
patrick

edited to add: "Camming units owned consist of:"


unrooted


Dec 14, 2005, 11:43 AM
Post #58 of 72 (9132 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 13, 2003
Posts: 840

Re: What is your favorite cam? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Mix it up, buy a bunch of old used gear from somebody that climbed 10 or 15 years ago, suppliment it with some new blems C4's on gear express, and it'll serve you wonderfully.

That said I love my pink tricam. If you don't have one buy two.

If that's not cam enough for you buy a .4 or .5 C4, I'd bet you've got little enough fingers to get yourself into trouble like me.

I hate climbing on mixed racks, it takes twice as long to find the one you need. I prefer Metolius TCU's sized 1 and 2. And All BD C4's. I have played with The new Max, cam and it seems better than most "cheap" cams, but nowhere near the quality of BD. Most of my friends will only buy Metolius or BD. I HATE wildcountry, even though they work well the d-mned thing gets twisted all funny when your trying to clean it.


turfguy


Dec 14, 2005, 3:31 PM
Post #59 of 72 (9132 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 23, 2005
Posts: 68

Re: What is your favorite cam? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

before you go and drop all your piggy bank on cams i would get my mitts on a few models and see what feels best. i was going to get BD cams but after placing them a few times i found them to be somewhat awkward for me. i decided to go with metolius TCU's and powercams. also remember that pro, in my opinion is one thing you don't want to go cheap on...its valuable life insurance. go with cams with a proven track record, ie BD, wild co., metolius, trango ect... just my .02.


burundanga


Dec 14, 2005, 3:37 PM
Post #60 of 72 (9132 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 30, 2003
Posts: 15

Re: What is your favorite cam? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

the one that saves my life


brutusofwyde


Dec 14, 2005, 7:46 PM
Post #61 of 72 (9132 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473

Re: What is your favorite cam? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
That is just a bold face lie coming from someone that has and uses as many big cams as you do...

Thanks for reminding me, I was having a senior moment and drifted from the thread topic.

My favorite cam is the #9 Valley Giant.

Brutus


bill_in_tokyo


Dec 14, 2005, 10:01 PM
Post #62 of 72 (9132 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 243

Re: What is your favorite cam? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I carry aliens up to red and camalots above that. Double, when necessary, in the small sizes with metolius tcus and in the larger sizes with rigid stem friends.

Budget and personal preference will govern what you buy, obviously. Try out as many kinds as you can, as much as you can, before you plunk down the bucks.

In the interest of education, I have one thought to offer to the OP. A solid stem friend clipped with a so-called "gunks tie-off" in a horizontal placement is as good as or better than any flexible stem SLCD. For more on the gunks tie-off, see here:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...topic_view=&start=15

Have fun!


sisko


Jan 6, 2006, 5:03 PM
Post #63 of 72 (9132 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 5, 2006
Posts: 5

Re: What is your favorite cam? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have many, many cams and passives and have enjoyed nearly all of them. For JT and Rubidoux or any other place where flares are common, I've found that the now-discontinued (?) WC Offset Tech Friends are wonderful. I have 2 sets, partly because I enjoy aid.

When I start leading a pitch, my preference is usually for passives to guard against a high-fall factor event.


dudemanbu


Jan 9, 2006, 10:08 PM
Post #64 of 72 (9132 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 2, 2005
Posts: 941

Re: What is your favorite cam? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

My favorite cam is the ONLY one i've taken a fall onto, my #5 (blue) WC zero. I also own max cams (.75-3) and can say with confidence that they place the same as symetrical cams. If you place them at the top of their range however, (like with any cam) you're asking for trouble.


asendr


Jan 15, 2006, 2:36 PM
Post #65 of 72 (9132 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 11, 2006
Posts: 20

Re: What is your favorite cam? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

My favorite cam is the black metolious fat cam. Hard size for me at I.C.
Black Diamond Camalots for sizes .5 on up, and Metolious for sizes orange on down, both tcu's and fcu's.



I love ringlocks.


daithi


Jan 15, 2006, 4:14 PM
Post #66 of 72 (9132 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 6, 2005
Posts: 397

Re: What is your favorite cam? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
What is your favourite cam?

Mine is the orange alien with the dimple and with huge voids in the brazing causing the stem to half hang out. Man that thing is bomber!


skinner


Jan 15, 2006, 6:35 PM
Post #67 of 72 (9132 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 31, 2004
Posts: 1747

Re: What is your favorite cam? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

By favorite cam.. I assume you meant ":What cams do you prefer" rather then a single cam.

In reply to:
Mine is the orange alien with the dimple and with huge voids in the brazing causing the stem to half hang out. Man that thing is bomber!

I figured this would come out eventually but, if CCH corrects the problem and implements proper QC, I wouldn't hesitate to buy more.

These are my *personal* choices (still optimistic about aliens)

    For
    small horizontal cracks: Aliens
    small vertical cracks: Aliens/Metolius/Trango ball nuts
    medium vertical cracks: Metolious Range Finders
    larger cracks: BD Camalots
    pin scars: Alien Hybrids


*Note Trango ball nuts seem to be bomber in anything you are able to place them in, however they can be a bitch to clean.

It's not just what works, but what works for you. Some people are more comfortable with different trigger mechanisms etc. If you know someone with a diverse rack of cams, you should go out to the rocks with them and try placing and cleaning them- after they have been weighted.


deltav


Jan 22, 2006, 8:31 AM
Post #68 of 72 (9132 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 29, 2005
Posts: 597

Re: What is your favorite cam? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I find that the Trangos feel kida like a toy compared to some of the others. I like my metolius. The new C4s are nice, but don't run out and blow your money on them. Stay away from things like Robots, or Splitter Gear. I have found them to be crap. Remeber, you get what you pay for.


dr_feelgood


Jan 22, 2006, 9:12 AM
Post #69 of 72 (9132 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060

Re: What is your favorite cam? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

It's a tie between my #.4 and .75 BD C4 camalot.


rad_dog


Jan 22, 2006, 11:21 AM
Post #70 of 72 (9132 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 2, 2006
Posts: 34

Re: What is your favorite cam? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Forged Friends with Bluewater Titan cord through the tie-off holes and no slings in the "normal" holes.


Partner jammer


Jan 22, 2006, 11:21 AM
Post #71 of 72 (9132 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 25, 2002
Posts: 3472

Re: What is your favorite cam? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have always had a love afair with the one that held!

Besides that, it's all personal taste.


keithlester
Deleted

Jan 22, 2006, 11:40 AM
Post #72 of 72 (9132 views)
Shortcut

Registered:
Posts:

Re: What is your favorite cam? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

My favorite cam is the one that fits just when I need it most
But I like techy friends best of all my cams

First page Previous page 1 2 3 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Trad Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook