|
tattooed_climber
Aug 29, 2005, 12:35 AM
Post #1 of 48
(7191 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2003
Posts: 4838
|
mine's 4 to 11 for my everyday trad rack
(12 cams to 33 nuts, hex's, tricams...not counting any of my anciet pro i collect/some times use or aid stuff)
|
|
|
|
|
euthanasia
Aug 29, 2005, 12:43 AM
Post #2 of 48
(7191 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 2, 2004
Posts: 127
|
It's split pretty evenly
|
|
|
|
|
dirtbag101
Aug 29, 2005, 1:35 AM
Post #3 of 48
(7191 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 18, 2005
Posts: 55
|
A few more cams
|
|
|
|
|
gunksgoer
Aug 29, 2005, 1:45 AM
Post #4 of 48
(7191 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 1290
|
22 stoppers 3 tricams 8 hexes to 15 cams. thats a little more than 2:1
|
|
|
|
|
vegastradguy
Aug 29, 2005, 2:47 AM
Post #5 of 48
(7191 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
|
lessee....15 or so stoppers, about 8-10 dolt nuts and a titon, two hexes....toss in 15-20 cams...pretty even split, i'd say.
|
|
|
|
|
cruze
Aug 29, 2005, 3:07 AM
Post #6 of 48
(7191 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 14, 2004
Posts: 16
|
About 3:1 in favour of passive.
|
|
|
|
|
ihuang
Aug 29, 2005, 3:12 AM
Post #7 of 48
(7191 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 6, 2002
Posts: 194
|
I don't bother with passive gear most of the time, so the ratio is about infinity.
|
|
|
|
|
hosh
Aug 29, 2005, 3:19 AM
Post #8 of 48
(7191 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 15, 2003
Posts: 1662
|
I've got 35 nuts (who needs that many? a gear whore!), 6 hexes, 3 tricams (I lost a few on my last big climb...), um, 11 aliens, 5 camalots, and 2 power cams.
that brings it to:
Passive - 41
Cams - 18
I'd put tri-cams with "passive", bringing it to 44:18, about a 2:1 ratio?
hosh.
|
|
|
|
|
korntera
Aug 29, 2005, 3:20 AM
Post #9 of 48
(7191 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 14, 2004
Posts: 422
|
10 stoppers and 2 hexes and 13 cams so 1:1 but i have all the cams i need, i just gotta get some more curved hexs and i need a pink and red tricam.
|
|
|
|
|
dbarandiaran
Aug 29, 2005, 4:17 AM
Post #12 of 48
(7191 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 29, 2003
Posts: 113
|
18 nuts, 6 hexes, 11 cams so about 2:1 in favor of passive
|
|
|
|
|
euroford
Aug 29, 2005, 5:55 PM
Post #13 of 48
(7191 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913
|
umm, it depends on the route! :roll:
|
|
|
|
|
ping
Aug 29, 2005, 6:01 PM
Post #14 of 48
(7191 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 45
|
10:13 active:passive
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Aug 29, 2005, 6:02 PM
Post #15 of 48
(7191 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
The rack I actually carry on the typical route is 13 cams and 13 stoppers, so exactly 1:1.
I'd have to go home and count up all the other nonsense I own, for a total of all gear.
|
|
|
|
|
goclimbarock514
Aug 29, 2005, 6:03 PM
Post #16 of 48
(7191 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 24, 2005
Posts: 23
|
I have 6 hexs, 10 nuts, 4 mini-nuts(they're really really f--ing small), and one red metolius tcu that I picked up in squamish
|
|
|
|
|
chanceboarder
Aug 29, 2005, 6:44 PM
Post #17 of 48
(7191 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 6, 2003
Posts: 1348
|
lets see 10 stopers, 7 hexes, 5 aluminum offsets, 1 tri cam and 14 cams.
passive = 23
active = 14
|
|
|
|
|
realdeal39
Aug 29, 2005, 6:54 PM
Post #18 of 48
(7191 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 18, 2004
Posts: 140
|
25 passive and 10 active. 2 1/2 to 1 ratio.
|
|
|
|
|
muslmutt
Aug 30, 2005, 2:36 AM
Post #19 of 48
(7191 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 17, 2004
Posts: 103
|
3.25 to1 in favor of passive, not counting all the stuff I leave at home most of the time.
|
|
|
|
|
climboard
Aug 30, 2005, 2:47 AM
Post #20 of 48
(7191 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2001
Posts: 503
|
13 nuts, 2 tricams, 10 cams.
1.5:1
|
|
|
|
|
jimfix
Aug 30, 2005, 3:07 AM
Post #21 of 48
(7191 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 18, 2004
Posts: 314
|
16:31 A:P. Good to see most are at least 2:1, even the bigest gear whores know that cams arn't the be all and end all.
|
|
|
|
|
afiveonbelay
Aug 30, 2005, 3:19 AM
Post #22 of 48
(7191 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 8, 2003
Posts: 178
|
Totally dependent on area and type of formations.
Gunks/Dacks: lots of passive 1:3
T-wall/New River: slightly more cams 1.5:1
Looking Glass and other NC plutons: cams and tricams only with passive as ballast
|
|
|
|
|
tradrenn
Sep 14, 2005, 1:52 AM
Post #23 of 48
(7191 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 16, 2005
Posts: 2990
|
21 Stoppers
6 tri-cams
11 cams
more cams to come
soon 1:1
for now 2:1 for passive
|
|
|
|
|
brianmccully
Sep 14, 2005, 2:48 AM
Post #24 of 48
(7191 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 23, 2004
Posts: 59
|
Two sets of nuts, a set of tricams, two sets of hexes and a set and half of cams, do the math.
So I have a good split when comparing actual number of pieces but heavy on the passive
|
|
|
|
|
mr8615
Sep 14, 2005, 2:56 AM
Post #25 of 48
(7191 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 4, 2004
Posts: 1032
|
20 cams, 10 nuts, so 2:1 in favor of cams. I rarely place passive gear, cams are just faster for me.
|
|
|
|
|
stonefree
Sep 14, 2005, 3:31 AM
Post #26 of 48
(6100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 2, 2005
Posts: 46
|
5 hexes, 22 nuts, 12 cams 2.25:1
|
|
|
|
|
onbelay_osu
Sep 14, 2005, 3:53 PM
Post #27 of 48
(6100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 5, 2002
Posts: 1087
|
11 pieces of passive and 12 cams so right around a 1:1 ratio....not to bad!
|
|
|
|
|
areuinclimber
Sep 14, 2005, 4:56 PM
Post #28 of 48
(6100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 29, 2004
Posts: 436
|
10 nuts, 27 cams (freeclimbin' rack)
20something nuts,7 micro nuts, 27 cams (wall/aid rack)
edit: add 3 cam hooks and 2 bat hooks
|
|
|
|
|
speedywon
Sep 14, 2005, 5:48 PM
Post #29 of 48
(6100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 5, 2005
Posts: 182
|
1:2
active:passive
|
|
|
|
|
scrapedape
Sep 14, 2005, 5:52 PM
Post #30 of 48
(6100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 2392
|
24:1 for passive.
|
|
|
|
|
keinangst
Sep 14, 2005, 5:56 PM
Post #31 of 48
(6100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2003
Posts: 1408
|
In reply to: I don't bother with passive gear most of the time, so the ratio is about infinity.
13 nuts, 7 hexes, 6 tricams
So the ratio is about "undefined" :D
|
|
|
|
|
slacklinejoe
Sep 14, 2005, 6:07 PM
Post #32 of 48
(6100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 5, 2003
Posts: 1423
|
(p)25:10(a)
|
|
|
|
|
dingus
Sep 14, 2005, 6:16 PM
Post #33 of 48
(6100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
Some routes ya takes more nuts than cams, others ya donts. Anyone who climbs with the same rack regardless of route... well, ya just kaint reach some people.
My rack is highly variable, %cams% and %nuts% quantity, size and selection route and goal dependant.
DMT
|
|
|
|
|
locker
Sep 14, 2005, 7:27 PM
Post #34 of 48
(6100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 14, 2004
Posts: 130
|
I own approximatly six complete racks of most of the top companies (can you say "Addict"?) and as one person posted on this thread.........."Totally dependent on area and type of formations."...............exactly!!! Totally depends on what type of rock, and where one is climbing.......rack accordingly!!!..................
|
|
|
|
|
glowering
Sep 14, 2005, 8:04 PM
Post #35 of 48
(6100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 13, 2002
Posts: 386
|
Interesting question.
My standard rack: 10 nuts, 10 cams = 1:1 I would've thought I had more active.
|
|
|
|
|
renohandjams
Sep 15, 2005, 3:13 PM
Post #36 of 48
(6100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 24, 2005
Posts: 616
|
In reply to: umm, it depends on the route! :roll: |
|
|
|
|
dirtyleaf
Sep 16, 2005, 12:31 AM
Post #37 of 48
(6100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 36
|
Passive:16 nuts, 2 tricams.1 hex
Active:19 cams
I usually carry the same amount of cams and nuts but on the longer routes I usually carry more cams.
|
|
|
|
|
rock_ninja
Sep 22, 2005, 7:19 PM
Post #38 of 48
(6100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 18, 2005
Posts: 23
|
I'm just a baby trad hussy, but my ratio is 7:2- I think I did the math right there. That's counting tricams as passive, which I assume we're doing? I almost always place them actively, though. Leads to a new and ineterestig bit for me- do you consider tricams as part of your active or passive gear?
Rack: 11 stoppers
2 tricams (want more!!)
8 hexes (no cowbells, though, sigh)
6 cams0 one of them is an old skool Wild Country rigid friend that I inheited, and I'm a little afraid of placing it.
|
|
|
|
|
azrockclimber
Sep 22, 2005, 8:11 PM
Post #39 of 48
(6100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 28, 2005
Posts: 666
|
I can't tell if you are talking about my entire rack of gear that hands in my basement or what I normally carry up a route...
I have 35+ cams and probably 21 nuts and 4 tri-cams. so 25 pieces of passive.
when I climb I almost always have more nuts than cams...about 18 nuts and usually about 12 cams pretty standard....abviously the cams can vary..I might have to carry 4 extra to protect wide crack...etc...whatever...
|
|
|
|
|
graniteboy
Sep 23, 2005, 4:36 PM
Post #40 of 48
(6100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 1, 2001
Posts: 1092
|
My usual rack consists of:
2 hands,
8 fingers,
2 Thumbs
2 feet
10 toes
An occasional chicken wing, knee bar, or hip wedge in larger cracks.
I generally use all these items as active cams, but occasionally they're passive.
|
|
|
|
|
reg
Sep 23, 2005, 5:44 PM
Post #41 of 48
(6100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1560
|
50/50 BUT DO I COUNT HEX'S TWICE?
|
|
|
|
|
domx
Oct 25, 2005, 7:07 PM
Post #42 of 48
(6100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 15, 2005
Posts: 45
|
16 nuts, 2 hex, 2 tricams, 5 cams and a zero 1 which i dont know in which cathegory to put it in LOL
So 20 to 5= 4 to 1 for passive
This is for Granite which is the only rock around here
|
|
|
|
|
lehrski
Oct 27, 2005, 2:19 AM
Post #43 of 48
(6100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 29, 2003
Posts: 86
|
15 nuts:6 cams. I would like more cams for long parallel cracks. Need a real job. I can't complain though. I only had 4 cams last week. I got two booty cams on a popular route that a lot of people bail on.
|
|
|
|
|
crimpstrength
Oct 27, 2005, 2:34 AM
Post #44 of 48
(6100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 285
|
I am still building but right now, I have one set (10) nuts and 20 cams and three tricams. What I carry up each route changes, but that is all I have so far
|
|
|
|
|
5_8nate
Nov 11, 2005, 5:51 AM
Post #45 of 48
(6100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 11, 2005
Posts: 2
|
I use a set of stoppers, half a set of hexes (the 5 or 6 biggest ones) 2 tri cams (the 2 smallest ones) 4 power cams .5"-3" and 4 bd c4s .5"-2", I want to get the 3" also. So that makes it about 3:1 passive.
Nate
|
|
|
|
|
p0stscript
Nov 11, 2005, 8:31 AM
Post #46 of 48
(6100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 9, 2005
Posts: 5
|
I only own 3 cams at the mo, so ratio is about 1:8 for most of the routes I do. But since I still see myself as a beginner I share most of the gear with my partner at the time.
PS
|
|
|
|
|
heiko
Nov 11, 2005, 10:12 AM
Post #47 of 48
(6100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 3, 2005
Posts: 1505
|
2:1 for passive.
|
|
|
|
|
iamcolinslack
Dec 12, 2005, 7:03 PM
Post #48 of 48
(6100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 9, 2005
Posts: 113
|
14 cams, 20 nuts, 6 tricams, 3 hexes
1:2 passive
|
|
|
|
|
|
