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onbelay_osu
Aug 31, 2005, 4:30 PM
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I was thinking about this the other day (I should preface this by saying I do not really care about the "super stars" of climbing they are out doing thier thing, and I am out doing my own, we are all just climbers in the end) yet we all have heros and I was wondering who Trad climbers look to for inspiration. My self I look up to , Tommy Cadwell, Dean Potter, Ron Kaulk, Layton Kor, Dan Osmand and Dereck Hersey. Not only do these people climb with good ethics, they are out not only exploring the thier personal limits but also that of the climbing community.
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angelaa
Aug 31, 2005, 4:40 PM
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My Heros
[indigo]Herb and Jan Conn :D
Layton Kor [/indigo] 8^)
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areyoumydude
Aug 31, 2005, 4:41 PM
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Half of your heros are dead.
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crackmd
Aug 31, 2005, 4:57 PM
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Steve Hong was one of the foremost pioneers of Indian Creek climbing. A large percentage of the classic, hard splitters he ticked off first. He did a large portion of his sending when he was a medical student which especially makes him a trad hero to me.
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asandh
Aug 31, 2005, 5:07 PM
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:)
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tenesmus
Aug 31, 2005, 5:12 PM
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In reply to: Steve Hong was one of the foremost pioneers of Indian Creek climbing. A large percentage of the classic, hard splitters he ticked off first. He did a large portion of his sending when he was a medical student which especially makes him a trad hero to me.
For me, its the local guys I respect the most. In Salt Lake that's a deep list. I'll start with Scott Carson because he's super nice, cranks 13 cracks and is in his 40's (I think).
Don't Forget Rockprodigy.
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alpnclmbr1
Aug 31, 2005, 5:19 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: ....Dan Osmand and Dereck Hersey I tend to pick heros who didn't deliberately kill themselves climbing ... :) ... no they weren't accidents, they were death wishes ... :cry:
What a clueless idiot.
Climbers respect people that choose to play close to the edge.
Playing close to the edge sometimes has consequences.
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asandh
Aug 31, 2005, 5:36 PM
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alpnclmbr wrote :In reply to: What a clueless idiot. Climbers respect people that choose to play close to the edge. Playing close to the edge sometimes has consequences. _________________ On a mission to combat misinformation on this site. 20 years climbing experience, all forms
there are fools and then there are heroes. playing close to the edge does not automatically make you a hero ... Robbins, Messner ... survivors from the edge :)
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angelaa
Aug 31, 2005, 6:17 PM
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In reply to: Robbins, Messner ... survivors from the edge :)
Like the Conns and Kor . . . Their routes still get my blood racing, then I think about the gear they had to climb the route with, and how they always down climbed a route. Now thats Ballsy!
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cfnubbler
Aug 31, 2005, 6:18 PM
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Here's a few more (slighlty) obscure heroes of mine, in no particular order...
Jimmy Dunn for an amazing catalog of first ascents, coast to coast, including some of the finest routes in the country.
Bernd Arnold- Unsung East German badass. 5.12, barefoot, with knotted cord and webbing for pro....in the 70s. 'Nuff Said.
Henry Barber- Arguably the finest climber of his generation, with impeccable ethics. Raised the standards where ever he went.
John Turner- His 5.9s and 10s are STILL hard, and still classic. What an eye for a line! And, like Barber, impeccable ethics and style.
Fritz Weisner- If you climb in the north east, or on K2 for that matter, Fritz is probably one of your heros. If he isn't, he should be.
-Nubbler
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dingus
Aug 31, 2005, 6:21 PM
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In reply to: [ Climbers respect people that choose to play close to the edge.
Not all climbers my man. There is a segment of our population whose sensibilities are offended by those they perceive as going beyond acceptable risks. Dano certainly evoked that emotion in plenty of climbers, real climbers. Hersey did too. Look at any lengthy thread involving either climber and you will see them come out of the woodwork. Not all of them are noobs and low-risk climbers either.
I am not saying this to be mean or antagonistic, but neither of those guys are my heros, nor would they be role models. I would not want my kids to 'be like them.' I DO respect what they did however.
Still and all, I admire their wild streaks. Those two were closer to the conduits of the universe than us mere mortals. They were closer to the wilderness of the heart too. Wild men in the true sense. But they passed beyond the veil and that is that.
My list of climbers I admire and respect is very long. Not to suck up, but alpnclmbr1 is squarely in the respect column. Low threshold? No! But I respect talent and knowledge when I see it, even if he did fly too close to the sun, hehe.
DMT
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dingus
Aug 31, 2005, 6:34 PM
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Below I quote myself (how lowbrow can you get?) and Karlbaba from a thread on rec.climbing about 6 years ago:
In reply to: Karl Baba wrote: > I'm not sure I like the whole idea of defining a concept of "Good" and > "Great" climbers. Why? So we can feel better or worse about ourselves? Nope. At least in the case of my post, it's not about labeling particular people or feelings or any other 90's kind of thing. > Sure, we can make up relative scales of boldness and difficulty, but is > it really meaningful to us personally? I think you're missing the point Karl. There are great climbers out there. I don't mean "great." I mean "GREAT." Robbins, Messner, Norgay, Croft, Bonatti, etc. These men were not only excellent technicians in their chosen fields, they all contributed in many significant ways to the growth and maturity of the sport we know today. But in their days, there were good climbers aplenty, just as there are today. I know some very good climbers. None of them are great (and none of them claim to be). I am simply interested in what catalyst, what spark, what quality propels them to do what they do. "Vision," if this quality could be labeled, seems to strike closer to the mark than any other single word. All of these men had the vision to see things differently and the commitment to act upon it. > Our growth and experience in > climbing is an intimate, inner journey, and nobody really knows when > you're making a breakthough or just capitalizing on some genetic bonus, > except you. True to an extent. But the impact of the great ones reverberates through the sport. We stand on the shoulders of such people every time we go climbing. And I don't buy the genetics argument, never have. Genetics take 2nd fiddle to human will. And that is amazing in and of itself. > Let insecure or egoistic people set up heros Heros are not just for insecure people and you know it Karl. We all have heros, and I'd dare say you do as well. Without heros and role models were are left without frames of reference upon which to act. Then we have to make up the rules as we go, the same as the masters did. Most of us aren't up to that job. > and scales, and judge each > other. But it's not about judgement. I didn't ask "who" were the great climbers. I asked what made them great in the first place. > I would like to frame the questions in different terms that > refer to subjective perspectives within each person. Like... what would it take to make you (or me, or someone else) a great climber? Well for me... it would take a miracle. DMT
Just some thoughts on heros is all.
Cheers
DMT
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g_i_g_i
Aug 31, 2005, 6:50 PM
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heroes, I don't know... maybe Cesarino Fava, as an example, who got part of both feet frozen (and amputated) while saving a fellow climber on Aconcagua, and everyone else who risk their life to save that of others.
As for great climbers.... anyone who pushes their limits. Climbers with a vision and a consistent philosophy are very inspirational to me, and if some of them die is because climbing is dangerous, not because they were not great climbers. After all, aren't we all survivors?
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tim
Aug 31, 2005, 7:18 PM
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Personally I admire people who remind me that ordinary people with extraordinary drive can change the course of history, or at least have a damn fine time trying ;-)
Royal Robbins is like that. He's so down to earth in person, but with a quiet intensity that cannot be disguised. I was lucky enough to catch his slide show at the annual SSCA meeting 2 weekends ago, and he very much re-centered my goals as a climber. Plus I now understand why people kayak. It's all about the adventure, not knowing whether you'll succeed (or even live through it, sometimes), but accepting the risks you can deal with, and going for it. There was a twinge of righteous indignation even now, and an alpine-style credo -- "the style is everything, the climb is nothing" -- but beneath it was his contagious enthusiasm from which his competitive drive seemed to spring.
Herb Laeger is inspiring, too, both for his countless adventurous FA's and for how egoless he comes across after putting up megaclassic routes for decades. Peter Croft acts the same way, never spraying, always positive about the experience and the adventure, at least when I have run into him in Bishop and elsewhere.
My friend Javier Gonzales has a similar attitude which, while perhaps not "heroic" in the same sense of unusual achievement, is nonetheless striking to me. I have never met anyone as patient and contagious and enthusiastic, or as big-hearted. Javier introduced me to ''real'' backcountry skiing in the Sierra and the adventures to be had thusly; more importantly, though, he has provided me an example of what you can do with a positive attitude and an iron determination to push onward.
And like dingus, I must agree that Dan (alpnclmbr1) is a hell of a partner. A lot of the second-guessing and mudslinging on interweb forums is so foolish and pointless that I find it hard to blame him for getting a little bit jaded; in real life, however, Dan's attitude, like Javier's, is infectious and his experience invaluable to a younger punk (like, say, me).
I haven't had the good fortune to meet Mike Anderson or his brother, but I certainly admire their accomplishments, and in correspondence with Mike he has been immensely positive and centered. Something of a reminder that determination and focus can be critically important, perhaps more so than physical skills, in attaining one's goals.
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ajkclay
Sep 1, 2005, 2:59 PM
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HB Matheson... Legend!
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bobd1953
Sep 1, 2005, 3:15 PM
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My wife Laurel, who always took care of business when I was out playing.
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angry
Sep 1, 2005, 3:26 PM
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I was a huge fan of Henry Barber until I read "The Breach" now I respect his climbs, his resume, and that his balls drag on the ground. I do not respect him though. It was a bit crushing to let him go.
If Dean Potter is still Dean Potter in another 5 years, I'd call him a hero.
Bob Scarpelli, even though he just glares at me in the parking lot, he's the man.
Rik Derrick, basically unknown, former guide, 5.12 crack climber, still climbs despite a shattered pelvis. He was one of the first hard dudes I met.
My old roommate, Bob, taught me what ethics were and continually pushed me to climb harder and harder. He was also instrumental in removing that retarded small town Wyoming asshole/intolerant/close minded/afraid to think mentality from me.
Do I need to say Peter Croft? Or is it implied?
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angelaa
Sep 1, 2005, 3:31 PM
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In reply to: Do I need to say Peter Croft? Or is it implied?
Oh . . I thought Peter Croft was ALWAYS implied!!
if not . . . add him to my list too!!
Can't wait to read the write up about his most recent adventure in R&I
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dingus
Sep 1, 2005, 3:33 PM
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fshizzle, Boukreev had his rebuttal book where HE got the chance to splain HIS side of things.
Barber did too, On Edge: The Life and Times of Henry Barber, by Chip Lee.
You should check it out bro. Not the greatest biography ever written, but pretty good subject matter.
DMT
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angry
Sep 1, 2005, 3:42 PM
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I never mentioned Anatoli. I read "The Climb" and it sounded way more on the level than "Into Thin Air" but this is the wrong thread for that.
I'll check out the Barber book.
Thanks.
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bobd1953
Sep 1, 2005, 3:49 PM
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The only reason Rob Taylor is alive is because of Henry Barber.
I climbed with Henry a couple of months after the accident and he was very open about the whole deal.
Pretty wild story!
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flamer
Sep 1, 2005, 4:19 PM
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Ferris Buller , you're my hero!!!
josh
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dingus
Sep 1, 2005, 4:32 PM
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In reply to: I never mentioned Anatoli.
I never said you did. I used him as an example of someone who is widely believed to have gotten a bad rap over a climbing accident.
Its hard to find, you may have to go to the library or Chesslers.
Cheers
DMT
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ambler
Sep 1, 2005, 4:42 PM
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In reply to: The only reason Rob Taylor is alive is because of Henry Barber. I climbed with Henry a couple of months after the accident and he was very open about the whole deal. |
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sharpie
Sep 1, 2005, 5:22 PM
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Alex Lowe
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skinnyclimber
Sep 1, 2005, 6:13 PM
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It's interesting, because I haven't read enough climbing history to have picked out, or unconciously settled on or whatever, any "heros".
At this point the only people I look up to in a practical sense are my partners here in New Mexico. Those include Kyote321 and chucky from this sight, and of course others.
I guess a lot of young climbers like myself could use to read a lot more.
Skinny
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vegastradguy
Sep 1, 2005, 6:23 PM
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My heroes vary depending on what I'm doing. Some constant ones are:
Famous folks...
Peter Croft, Tommy Caldwell, Jim Donini
Local folks...
George Urioste, Joanne Urioste, Joe Herbst, Larry DeAngelo, Phil Broscovak, Larry Hamilton, John Williamson, etc, etc...
(This post was edited by vegastradguy on Mar 30, 2007, 5:37 AM)
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bubbahotep
Sep 1, 2005, 6:34 PM
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Two pages of heros and no one has mentioned the Bird.
He's right up there on my list.
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onbelay_osu
Sep 1, 2005, 6:51 PM
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In reply to: . Do I need to say Peter Croft? Or is it implied?
no that is a given of course what about Duane Raliegh?????finger of fate anyone....anyone
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areyoumydude
Sep 1, 2005, 8:22 PM
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In reply to: My wife Laurel, who always took care of business when I was out playing.
Bob, you're my hero.
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atg200
Sep 1, 2005, 11:43 PM
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seeing george hurley's desert slideshow at neptune's a few years back had a huge influence on me. not as well known as he should be - an easy man to admire.
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cfnubbler
Sep 3, 2005, 4:47 PM
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In reply to: george hurley.... an easy man to admire.
Agreed. Dont know how I forgot him. Stand at the base of Black Crack on Cathedral, then think about drytooling it in full winter conditions. Then think about doing it when you're well into your 50s. If that doesn't make you're nuts shrivel up, you're either a bad ass climbing chica or George Hurley. All those North Conway hardmen, and they're not exactly lining up for that one. And he's a swell guy to boot.
-Nubbler
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dirtineye
Sep 3, 2005, 5:06 PM
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I don't have any heros, but those I have climbed with and learned from and admired as climbers and as people are, in no particular order, Adam Henry, Jeff Noffsinger, Arno, Shannon Stegg, the late Jim Okel, and Jim Corbett.
I never climbed with Jeff Lowe, but he is a most impressive individual, especially in the way he was dealing with adversity at the time I met him.
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akicebum
Sep 3, 2005, 5:28 PM
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Correct me if I am wrong but isn't Hirayama (possibly spelled wrong) a badass. How about Salvaretta, Pratt, or Child. Or the Hold Chipping machine gun bolting duo of Piana and Skinner. Bubu Bole is pretty much your industry standard badass. What is really amazing is that no one has mentioned Lynn Hill, Beth Rodden, or Catherine Desiville. Steve Schneider has been throwing down in the valley sinced having a mullet wasn't retro. Paul Pritchard, Andy Kirkpatrick, Mick Fowler, Chris Bonnington, Don Whillans are a few names to remember. I was stoked that someone remembered the Uriostes. Somehow we forgot the Hubers though.
These best climber are often called a waste of time. I like them because they make me verify a climber's credentials. By credentials I mean totally badass route they have put up in a style I respect. You can't just toss a bunch of Rock and Ice cover boys up and say look at how tough these guys are. These top roped and eventually pink pointed aid lines that are going free in the valley are great achievement by great climbers, but they don't inspire me. Whereas routes like the Azeem Ridge have me living in a van and livign off rice and oatmeal. Climbing is all about adventure, exploring the unknown. At least for me. The "trad" climber that has inspired me the most is Greg Child, what a balls to walls badass.
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jv
Sep 3, 2005, 6:27 PM
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How can you mention Kauk and not John Bachar? How can you include Robbins and Pratt and not Yvon Chouinard, Tom Frost, Bob Kamps, Doug Robinson, Frank Sacherer, or John Salathe?
Here's a few others I didn't see mentioned: David Brower, Norman Clyde, Jules Eichorn, Jim Erickson, Peter Haan, Warren Harding, John Long, John Muir, Anton Nelson, Charlie Porter, Bev Powell, Mark Powell, Bestor Robinson, Steve Roper, Galen Rowell, Allen Steck, Chuck Wilts.
JV
By the way, it's "heroes," not "hero's."
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brutusofwyde
Sep 3, 2005, 7:12 PM
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In reply to: Two pages of heros and no one has mentioned the Bird. He's right up there on my list.
Although he was never one of my heroes, I used to respect the Bird until I heard him advocate still tossing cr@p bags of the Captain. Robbins, from hearing him talk, has grown out of much of the arrogance of his youth. Perhaps some of us can learn from life's lessons.
My heroes are mostly folks I have tied in with: Nurse Ratchet, Allen Steck, Dingus Milktoast, Steve Schneider. From each of them I have had my concept of the universe expanded, been given new insights, learned new perspectives, and had the walls to my perceptions blown apart.
Brutus
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jelliott
Sep 3, 2005, 7:35 PM
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By virtue of having a small resume of areas that I have climbed and loving Tahquitz I think Tobin Sorenson was badass and Rick Ac along with Long and the rest of the "Stone Masters". IMHO I think they were one of the catalyst that Dingus mentioned. Plus all those like Chuch Pratt, Kamps, Croft are awesome. Also all those unnamed guys who make climbing about climbing, not grades.
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peterz
Sep 3, 2005, 8:36 PM
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Gaston Rebuffat ...
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all_that_is_rock
Sep 4, 2005, 1:41 AM
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a few climbers whose acomplishments I can dig are as follows: Royal Robbins, Conrad Anker, Steve House, Josh Wharton, Voytek Kurtkya, Henrey Barber, anybody with the last name Lowe, Ian Altman, Mark Twight, Jim Mcarthy, Hans Krous (spelling??), Russ Raffa, Russ Clune, Dick Williams, John Long, Dean Potter, John Bacher, Jim Bridwell, Charlie Fowler, John Shermin, Lynn Hill, Steph Davis, Bean Bowers, Tony Yaniro, Chuck Pratt, George Hurley, Yvon Choinarnd, John Stannard, Sue Kliegerman, Peter Croft, Billy Westbay, Amon McNealy, Allan Steck, and Warren Harding, to name a few....
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rockprodigy
Sep 7, 2005, 2:26 AM
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...so here we are with another list.
Don't feel bad, there's nothing wrong with it. Our sport is unique. Unlike basketball, etc, we have the opportunity to test ourselves against the same opponent as those who came before us...the rock. So, it's only natural that we think of the climbers that came before.
Besides the numerous greats that have been listed (especially Hong, Croft, Hill, Gullich etc.), I've always been inspired by people who have had the vision to see the next evolution in climbing. Often, these guys were ridiculed in their own time, and sadly some of them still are today, even though their tactics are completely acceptable now. I'm talking about pioneers like Alan Watts, Tony Yaniro, Ray Jardine, Todd Skinner, and Paul Piana. All of them maxed out the trad climbing standards of the day before rethinking the man-made constraints of the sport in order to progress further.
[soapbox]Breaking out of the mold took courage. I think it's a shame that certain of these people (Skinner and Piana in particular) are still criticized today...and for what? The sins that got Skinner and Piana blacklisted in Yosemite were hangdogging, fixed ropes and tick marks...tactics that people like Tommy, Beth and Steph (no disrespect intended) get a free pass for. I think it's time that we give credit where credit is due. [/soapbox]
One of my contemporary heroes is "Platinum" Rob Miller. I've never met another climber who is so committed to his own sense of style. He holds himself to standards that few people are aware of, and most would consider ridiculous, even though it probably costs him fame and fortune. He doesn't do it to impress anyone else, it's just the way he likes to do it.
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yannbuse
Sep 7, 2005, 2:37 AM
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M Piola - although he did drill a bit, what he did for trad is incredible
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bandidopeco
Sep 7, 2005, 3:29 AM
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Bridwell. I am very fortunate to be good friends with him (his son Layton and I were best friends until they moved from Tahoe to Palm Desert way back when.) I did my first multi-pitch with him (West Crack on DAFF) and learned to lead from the guru himself (not to mention how to smoke camel fiterless without making any litter.)
Shinohara, whom I met here in Saku, Japan. He is to Ogawayama what Bridwell or Bachar is to Yosemite, plus he's over 60 and still has guns, plus he boulder's harder than I and go climbing almost every day!
Suzuki for everything he did around Tahoe and more (so far I've only had the skill to do Flying High Again.)
then comes the Usual suspects: Bachar, Kauk, the Hubers, Potter, Caldwell, Kor, etc...
Oh, and a special mention of Herman Buhl. Every climber should read "The Lonely Challenge."
Last of all my Uncle Glen Poulsen. I don't know anyone with a truer love of the mountains.
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euroford
Sep 7, 2005, 1:45 PM
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i read allot, and have likely collected most of the seminal mountain literature, so from my reading i could list numerous climbers (many already listed here) that i could envy for a variaty of reasons.
but instead, i'll focus on the two whom have earned my respect not just from mountain lore, but having gotten beat down while trying to follow in there footsteps. Kor and Weisner. The shit they did, the style they did it in and the tools they had available, its just godsmacking.
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deepseaclimber666
Sep 29, 2005, 7:41 PM
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I believe that anyone of the climbing pioneers in the South Platte area is a hero to me.
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hosebeats
Sep 29, 2005, 8:22 PM
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My friend Tom who has the most unflinching dedication and intensity that I have ever witnessed.
Most of the Golden Age Cowboys of Yosemite. The men who did it their way, didn't take shit, and set a hell of a standard for which the rest of us attempt to measure up to. A set or two of nuts and some pitons make for brass balls. I'll take cams and damned sticky rubber, please.
Finally my dad. He's not a climber but he taught me the love of mountains and the freedom of the outdoors. Thanks, dad.
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glacierboy
Sep 29, 2005, 8:43 PM
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John Roskelly. Art Davidson. Maurice Herzog. Guys who know what it means to be cold. As far as Piana and Skinner go, can't speak about Piana but I got a chance to climb with Skinner once and he seemed like a super nice guy. And man could that guy send...I was blown away. He was touring our area so he was onsighting everything, making it look easy.
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golsen
Sep 29, 2005, 9:14 PM
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In reply to: ...so here we are with another list. Don't feel bad, there's nothing wrong with it. Our sport is unique. Unlike basketball, etc, we have the opportunity to test ourselves against the same opponent as those who came before us...the rock. So, it's only natural that we think of the climbers that came before. Besides the numerous greats that have been listed (especially Hong, Croft, Hill, Gullich etc.), I've always been inspired by people who have had the vision to see the next evolution in climbing. Often, these guys were ridiculed in their own time, and sadly some of them still are today, even though their tactics are completely acceptable now. I'm talking about pioneers like Alan Watts, Tony Yaniro, Ray Jardine, Todd Skinner, and Paul Piana. All of them maxed out the trad climbing standards of the day before rethinking the man-made constraints of the sport in order to progress further. [soapbox]Breaking out of the mold took courage. I think it's a shame that certain of these people (Skinner and Piana in particular) are still criticized today...and for what? The sins that got Skinner and Piana blacklisted in Yosemite were hangdogging, fixed ropes and tick marks...tactics that people like Tommy, Beth and Steph (no disrespect intended) get a free pass for. I think it's time that we give credit where credit is due. [/soapbox] One of my contemporary heroes is "Platinum" Rob Miller. I've never met another climber who is so committed to his own sense of style. He holds himself to standards that few people are aware of, and most would consider ridiculous, even though it probably costs him fame and fortune. He doesn't do it to impress anyone else, it's just the way he likes to do it.
Interesting list rockprodigy. I too respect all those you mention; however, for trad climbing? Alan Watts should be credited for bringing sport to Smith and at the time, it received tons of publicity so for a historical perspective he deserves huge credit. This was from about 83-87 and beyond. But those were critical years for the sport evolution.
I agree with everything you said except it is obvious that those who expanded boundaries at the expense of ridicule are going beyond traditional. This really leads into that darn question, What is TRAD?
Trad climbers to me are those that held to certain ground up beliefs. There were many from Boulder in the 70's. While Skinner and Piana did some great stuff, they certainly expanded by hangdogging. That was different than old school trad ideals.
I admire them all, but this thread goes back to why I do not like the word trad. There is no consensus of what it means...
Now Sport, I believe has a consensus. To me it means the route was started by drilling on rappel....And then all techniques to free said route aside from altering the rock are legal.
Just my two cents. I dont think you can say who is your trad hero until you have defined trad. And if climbing the Nose with a very fast time is trad, what is meant by that? Certainly, grabbin pro aint traditional. Anyway, good thread but the real problem is that there is not an accepted view on what trad means.....
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raymondjeffrey
Sep 29, 2005, 9:57 PM
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Margery Farquar (sp) was one of the first dedicated gals who set high standards. So was Royal Robbins' wife, she made a few contributions of her own, no? I dig Layton; intense and employed. Tom Frost is definately one of the most important figures in the annals of climbing; dedicated Mormon who abastained from drugs and alcohol in a 'counter culture' that almost celebrates pot smoking all the while earning the respect of climbers and non-climbers alike.
All of the humble 'non-well-known' folks out there willing to give a helping hand to newbies.
Thanks gambler and Larry,
Jeff
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healyje
Oct 1, 2005, 8:31 AM
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Pretty much anyone that's willing to tie into the other end of a rope with me.
I'm not really into the "hero" thing, I found climbing to be a lot like war; it's just you, the rock, a half-assed idea, and trying to persevere and come home alive - heros are created after the fact by people who need them. There are a lot of climbers I hold in high regard and respect, but remembering that they are just another human being reminds me all the more just how remarkable their achievements are (and on good days makes me aim a little higher myself).
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test
Oct 1, 2005, 12:37 PM
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Tommy Caldwell
Dean Potter
Steph Davis
Huber Brothers
Beth Rodden
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outsideguyzak
Oct 1, 2005, 3:28 PM
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salathe, steck, robbins. More recently Tommy Cauldwell and Dean Potter.
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zenyetta
Oct 1, 2005, 4:42 PM
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What about the ladies?
Lynn Hill, Beth Rodden, Laura Lee, Steff Davis, Katie Brown, Lisa Rands, etc etc.....
Maybe I am saying this because I AM a girl. But why don't men tend to look up to women as much, I am NOT saying all the time, but I didn't see many womens name on this list. I think its because men somewhere inside don't like it when a women can climb better than them.
Anyways women are inspiring to me since its a predominate man pushing envelope sport and when a women pushes it, and oh many do. It rocks!!! no pun intended :)
I look up to men to, Tommy Caldwell, Dean Potter, Tom Frost, Royal Robbin, Ron Kauk, and let us not all forget the Bird (Jim Bridwell), or John Long.
There are many climbers that inspire me, local and ones we find in climbing magazines that inspire me. Someone that is able to push themselves, keep a calm positive manner in difficult situations is all inspiring.
Its funny I spent a couple months in Camp 4. I meet some wonderful people from all over the world. Pushing the envelope...doing some crazy shit. (that place is very humbling). People that were amazing climbers that no one has heard of, and were just so cool. even respecting and interested about me a new trad leader trying to push her own envelope.
I must say this because I just have to put my two cents in. This is an old listing so no one will probably read this so I will just say it. Dan Osman was an amazing climber that is awe inspiring. Amazing climber just living life to its fullest buy pushing himself. Which is awesome. BUT he left a child behind. I think if pushing your envelope is the way you want to go, DON'T HAVE A KID!!!! Its not fare to them. All other climbers doing their thing free soloing or whatever....that is cool go for it, its amazing to me but choose that life of risk where you will die if you make a mistake and don't have a kid.
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takeme
Oct 1, 2005, 4:51 PM
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I don't like to use the word heros, but these are some folks who inspire me. I have to give the nod to some Colorado guys who haven't been mentioned but have done some amazing stuff over the last 10 years--Mike Pennings, Jonny Copp, Josh Wharton, Topher Donahue, etc.
And of course going further back: Kor, Dalke, Dunn, Wiggins, Webster, Becker, etc. etc.
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superbum
Oct 1, 2005, 5:54 PM
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JIM DONINI
PETER CROFT
DEREK HERSEY
EARL WIGGINS
SONNIE TROTTER
DALE BARD
And all the people I've climbed with who gladly took the lead on natural lines when I was scared. Thanks all!
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dredsovrn
Oct 1, 2005, 10:19 PM
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I don't know any famous climbers, and I guess I don't really care to. My hero or trad is my climbing partner (rokshoxbkr19 on this site. He went for a lead on Silly Dickin (5.12) in the Gunks because I said I thought he could do it. He went for it. After on fall on a number 4 nut (this climb is thin) a spark shot out of where the nut was placed. He kept climbing. Then he jammed a #3 Zero in just as he was about to whip, and only got two cam lobes in. If you ever seen this piece of gear, it looks questionable when placed correctly. When he fell it whipped out and hit him in the head. After more climbing and finding he couldn't reach the last hold, he down aided the whole route and cleaned all the gear. Just one of many examples of his freakish trad ability, and stong lead head. He's my trad hero.
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cbreeze
Oct 1, 2005, 10:38 PM
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Glad to see HB Matheson got a mention, he is the only trad legend down under imo.
BUT
4 pages and not one mention of Leo Houlding ? I dont understand that one.
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asandh
Oct 1, 2005, 11:31 PM
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A lot of names have been thrown in to this thread, but are they really heroes ? Just being a great climber doesn't make someone a hero, nor does doing something first necessarily qualify you.
There are a number of climbers whose accomplishments I admire, but they're not my heroes.
Though he's not "yet" a climber, Kyle Maynard is a hero. :)
http://www.usatoday.com/...cover-wrestler_x.htm
Have you really thought about your personal definition :?:
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rufusandcompany
Oct 2, 2005, 12:34 AM
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In reply to: Here's a few more (slighlty) obscure heroes of mine, in no particular order... Jimmy Dunn for an amazing catalog of first ascents, coast to coast, including some of the finest routes in the country. Bernd Arnold- Unsung East German badass. 5.12, barefoot, with knotted cord and webbing for pro....in the 70s. 'Nuff Said. Henry Barber- Arguably the finest climber of his generation, with impeccable ethics. Raised the standards where ever he went. John Turner- His 5.9s and 10s are STILL hard, and still classic. What an eye for a line! And, like Barber, impeccable ethics and style. Fritz Weisner- If you climb in the north east, or on K2 for that matter, Fritz is probably one of your heros. If he isn't, he should be. -Nubbler
Calling Jimmy Dunn and Henry Barber obscure is a funny statament. They are two of the most famous pioneers in US free climbing history.
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afiveonbelay
Oct 2, 2005, 2:46 AM
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There's hope yet, as some people knew who Chuck Pratt was.
In these glory hounding days of self-aggrandizement, here was a guy who was just about the climb, nothing more, nothing less.
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rockprodigy
Oct 3, 2005, 11:22 PM
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I concur that this is all pretty pointless without being certain what "trad" is, but it's all pointless anyway, right?
In reply to: Interesting list rockprodigy. I too respect all those you mention; however, for trad climbing? Alan Watts should be credited for bringing sport to Smith and at the time, it received tons of publicity so for a historical perspective he deserves huge credit. This was from about 83-87 and beyond. But those were critical years for the sport evolution.
When you consider that Alan nearly redpointed (placing all gear on lead) the East Face of the Monkey at 13c/d in 1985, I would say he was a trad climber first. He only resorted to what we now call "pinkpointing" when Heinz Zak, of all people talked him into doing that way because that's how all the hardest routes in Europe were being done. Alan Watts climbed tons of super hard cracks before he even thought about sport climbing.
My intention was only to highlight some people that probably would not otherwise make it onto this all-important list.
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gullwing19
Oct 3, 2005, 11:52 PM
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I had the pleasure this weekend to catch a belay from Fred Becky up 3 pitches of Little Cottonwood Canyon granite. Regardless of his age and mobility the man looked solid roped up. He also likes to talk which was an added treat.
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worldonastrng
Mar 29, 2007, 12:08 AM
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Whoever thought it was necessary to bolt the entire Boulder Canyon. Dude's got some serious huevos. 
Edited to add:
In reply to the original post - I question your integrity if you can honestly say that Dean Potter is a hero of yours because of his ethics.
(This post was edited by worldonastrng on Mar 29, 2007, 12:44 AM)
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abtisme
Mar 29, 2007, 1:00 AM
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worldonastrng wrote: Whoever thought it was necessary to bolt the entire Boulder Canyon. Dude's got some serious huevos. Edited to add: In reply to the original post - I question your integrity if you can honestly say that Dean Potter is a hero of yours because of his ethics.
you do know this thread is over a year and a half old, right? and i don't care if potter climbed delicate arch. i don't agree with the pictures/publicity, but i don't think he did any more damage to it than all of us do to the rest of the world by driving our cars, not recycling, etc.
-aaron
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rhythm164
Mar 29, 2007, 1:04 AM
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Barber, Chouinard, Frost, Skinner, Potter, Caldwell, Harding (hello!), Robbins, Kamps, Kor...just to name a few
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boymeetsrock
Mar 29, 2007, 1:22 AM
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I admired Sue Knott and Karen McNeill for thier alpine achievemens. True hard women.
Mick Fowler too.
But Sue and Karen should have been mentioned a couple of years ago.
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worldonastrng
Mar 29, 2007, 2:37 AM
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My apologies for missing the date of the thread.
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flamer
Mar 29, 2007, 4:16 AM
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worldonastrng wrote: My apologies for missing the date of the thread.
Maybe you should apologise for dissing a man(even if you did it indirectly) who has done more for climbing than you probably ever will??
josh
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medicus
Mar 29, 2007, 5:07 AM
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flamer wrote: worldonastrng wrote: My apologies for missing the date of the thread. Maybe you should apologise for dissing a man(even if you did it indirectly) who has done more for climbing than you probably ever will?? josh
I was slightly offended at the comment he presented before also, but I just chose to ignore it, but I'm glad you said something.
Edit: In fact I think I'll add...
worldonastrng wrote: I question your integrity if you can honestly say that Dean Potter is a hero of yours because of his ethics.
I don't think there are very many people that consider Dean Potter a hero because of his ethics, I think it pertains to what he has done for climbing. He may have done some things that may or may not have been unethical, but I doubt anyone is going to say "Dean Potter is my hero because of his ethics!" I think it more pertains to his climbing.
(This post was edited by medicus on Mar 29, 2007, 5:12 AM)
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hugepedro
Mar 29, 2007, 6:23 AM
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You call yourselves trad climbers? Only 1 mention of Fred Beckey, and not until 3 pages into the thread?
No wonder I hardly come to this site anymore. Buncha effin posuer punks.
The man has more FA's probably than anybody has or ever will, and he's still putting them up in his '80's. He's the original alpinist.
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worldonastrng
Mar 29, 2007, 7:17 AM
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In reply to: I don't think there are very many people that consider Dean Potter a hero because of his ethics, I think it pertains to what he has done for climbing. He may have done some things that may or may not have been unethical, but I doubt anyone is going to say "Dean Potter is my hero because of his ethics!" I think it more pertains to his climbing.
Check the first thread.
In reply to: My self I look up to , Tommy Cadwell, Dean Potter, Ron Kaulk, Layton Kor, Dan Osmand and Dereck Hersey. Not only do these people climb with good ethics,...
Hey, I still watch Dean's videos. And when taken on my first tour of J'tree, my mentor showed me the place in Echo Rock area he soloed, and my jaw dropped and I was silent for quite some time. I have mad respect for his SKILLS and how he has pushed boundaries for the climbing community . However, his ETHICS are a concern for me.
Now, back to the original thread.
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medicus
Mar 29, 2007, 7:27 AM
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Okay, I'll buy that.
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flamer
Mar 29, 2007, 6:30 PM
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medicus wrote: flamer wrote: worldonastrng wrote: My apologies for missing the date of the thread. Maybe you should apologise for dissing a man(even if you did it indirectly) who has done more for climbing than you probably ever will?? josh I was slightly offended at the comment he presented before also, but I just chose to ignore it, but I'm glad you said something. Edit: In fact I think I'll add... worldonastrng wrote: I question your integrity if you can honestly say that Dean Potter is a hero of yours because of his ethics. I don't think there are very many people that consider Dean Potter a hero because of his ethics, I think it pertains to what he has done for climbing. He may have done some things that may or may not have been unethical, but I doubt anyone is going to say "Dean Potter is my hero because of his ethics!" I think it more pertains to his climbing.
...I was actually refering to the comment about "bolting boulder canyon".
Bob De Antonio is one hell of a climber and had put up thousands of routes...sport and trad.
Dean Potter is an egotistical knucklehead.
josh
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areyoumydude
Mar 29, 2007, 6:57 PM
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flamer wrote: Dean Potter is an egotistical knucklehead. josh
Because....?
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flamer
Mar 29, 2007, 7:11 PM
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areyoumydude wrote: flamer wrote: Dean Potter is an egotistical knucklehead. josh Because....?
...I'm not going to get into it. But I assure you my opinions are not formulated by what has been said/written in the mags or on a bunch of websites.
josh
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areyoumydude
Mar 29, 2007, 7:16 PM
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flamer wrote: areyoumydude wrote: flamer wrote: Dean Potter is an egotistical knucklehead. josh Because....? ...I'm not going to get into it. But I assure you my opinions are not formulated by what has been said/written in the mags or on a bunch of websites. josh
Then why slander him in the first place?
(This post was edited by areyoumydude on Mar 29, 2007, 7:44 PM)
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medicus
Mar 29, 2007, 7:41 PM
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I'm honestly not a huge fan of Dean Potter...I don't severely dislike him either. I just mainly took the side that I did because I think it is a bit harsh to question someone's integrity over it.
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flamer
Mar 29, 2007, 8:30 PM
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areyoumydude wrote: flamer wrote: areyoumydude wrote: flamer wrote: Dean Potter is an egotistical knucklehead. josh Because....? ...I'm not going to get into it. But I assure you my opinions are not formulated by what has been said/written in the mags or on a bunch of websites. josh Then why slander him in the first place?
My OPINION is far from slander....which leads us to the reason's I didn't want to discuss it in the first place.
josh
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Gmburns2000
Mar 29, 2007, 9:20 PM
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areyoumydude wrote: flamer wrote: areyoumydude wrote: flamer wrote: Dean Potter is an egotistical knucklehead. josh Because....? ...I'm not going to get into it. But I assure you my opinions are not formulated by what has been said/written in the mags or on a bunch of websites. josh Then why slander him in the first place?
I don't know much about him (other than his tightrope tricks and freesoloing), but the Arches trick didn't seem overly ethical, in my opinion. Of course, pushing boundaries isn't always bad, so I guess that's why some people have come to his defense. Still, I'm not convinced that climbing "untouchable" monuments is a good thing for climbing access, and I don't think it was as spontaneous as it was made out to originally be.
Having said that - my trad hero is regular-guy Mat Goodyear (RIP 2006). He introduced me to climbing, taught me to lead climb, took me on my first big climbs, and the end of his life came too, too soon. Either way, he changed my life and I will always be grateful for that.
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stredna
Mar 29, 2007, 9:43 PM
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Peter Croft and Hot Henry have enormous perverbial balls!
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blazesod
Mar 31, 2007, 5:13 PM
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You
The self proclaimed climber grown web surf
You are my hero, my inspiriation, my source of inner power
You
The life-long expert who chooses to remain annonymous
When you comment about past conquests like the Nose
You
The one sitting there thinking of a witty reply
Taking this forum post personally
You are my hero
Cheers, :)
-Dave
(This post was edited by blazesod on Mar 31, 2007, 5:17 PM)
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live2climb
Mar 31, 2007, 6:29 PM
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your my hero test
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/Europe/France/Alps_and_F...phin_/C_se/H_Biographie/Biographie_aka_Reali..._32392.html
(This post was edited by live2climb on Mar 31, 2007, 6:31 PM)
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medicus
Apr 2, 2007, 2:33 AM
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Lol, okay... I just got back from a great weekend of climbing, and for some reason, this post made me laugh a lot.
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lextalion
May 31, 2007, 1:41 AM
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Jim Donini, Tommy Cauldwell & Eric Decaria
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tradmanclimbs
Jun 7, 2007, 2:58 PM
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I read both Barbers and Taylors books. I am sure that there is some merit in both of their sides of the story. The photo in Barbers book of Taylor just before his fall tells a big story though. To an experienced ice climber it is obvious from that photo that taylor is a hairsbreath from coming off. I also climbed ice and photographed in that era and those manual cameras were not condusive to one handed snapshots. That photo for me adds credibility to Taylors acusation that Barber dropped him. It would be tough to take that photo with a manuel SLR and still catch the ensueing fall. All the other crap and fingerpointing in taylors book is dissmisable as sour grapes but the major point to me is who is telling the truth on the fall? Taylor claims that the screw held and Barber dropped him. Taylors claims he rememberd sitting on the ledge looking up at the rope going through the screw above him and that Barber dropped him because he was taking a photo when Taylor fell. The photo of Taylor about to fall in Barbers book seems to support this? Barber claims that the screw pulled. That is a major black and white disparity. Who knows the real story??? What would Taylors motovation be to lie about the screw pulling? he could and did sling pleanty of other mud. On the other hand Barber had pleanty of motovation to deny that the screw held and there is the photo that seems to support Taylors version of Barber botching the catch?
(This post was edited by tradmanclimbs on Jun 7, 2007, 3:13 PM)
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bob_54b
Jun 7, 2007, 3:04 PM
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Layton the great'un and Fred Becky....both outstanding climbers.
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thegreytradster
Jun 9, 2007, 3:02 AM
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Gave this one some thought and came up with a pair that deserve true hero status. From all accounts balanced and sucessful lives as well of a lifetime of climbing. I would run into them often at Lunch Rock in my novice climbing days ( 1969) and had practicaly memorized his guidebook.
Chuck and Ellen Wilts.
A 1947 honeymoon shot.
They bagged the FA of Mathes Crest on that trip.
(This post was edited by thegreytradster on Jun 9, 2007, 3:04 AM)
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superbum
Jun 9, 2007, 4:31 AM
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John Bachar, Peter Croft, Lynn Hill, Josh Warton, Kelly Cordes, Layton Kor, Steve Hong, Dale Bard, Jim Donini, Jason Lakey, Royal Robbins, Fred Beckey, JIm Bridwell, John Long...etc.. and some others too...
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time2clmb
Jun 9, 2007, 5:25 AM
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Calling some one a hero for simply climbing or doing any other activity seems pretty retarded.
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sungam
Jun 9, 2007, 9:47 AM
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Wowza!
I'll chip in with Dave MacLeod and JOHN DUNNE (the fat dude!)
-MagnuS
(This post was edited by sungam on Jun 9, 2007, 9:48 AM)
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Cragulator
Jun 13, 2007, 3:01 AM
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Herman Buhl..... Messner....
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rockguide
Jun 13, 2007, 3:22 AM
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time2clmb wrote: Calling some one a hero for simply climbing or doing any other activity seems pretty retarded.
They can be climbing heros and inspire our climbing. Some live their lives in an inspiring way as well and can be more well rounded heros.
Plenty don't.
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sanfranpunk
Jun 13, 2007, 10:03 PM
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my climbing heroes are:
russell bobzeine(spelt wrong i'm sure we call him russell b.) and joe de luca
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704core
Jun 14, 2007, 12:43 AM
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In reply to: Half of your heros are dead.
Wow dude, way to piss in someone cornflakes...
Do you flip your mother off with that finger?
Next time try something like... "Those are nice heroes to have onbelay_osu, wish they were still alive." See how that makes you feel like your not a complete ass-bag that shiites on someone elses life?
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wallwombat
Dec 5, 2007, 11:31 AM
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[quote "cbreeze"]Glad to see HB Matheson got a mention, he is the only trad legend down under imo.
[/quote]
What about John Fantini?
He is a trad legend from down under. A++
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wallwombat
Dec 5, 2007, 11:39 AM
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No one has mentioned Mark Wilford. Or Michael Gilbert.
My pick, among many would be Greg Child.
And Peter Croft.
And ......
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munky
Dec 5, 2007, 12:26 PM
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What a great thread but I'm suprised to not see Roger Briggs mentioned. After spending a summer in RMNP I learned about Briggs and his accomplishments. He has pioneered most of the harder routes on the Diamond including the Joker which has only been repeated a few times. I even had the chance of seeing Josh Wharton working this route 2 summers ago only to have to bail. Briggs supposedly rode his bike from Boulder to the trailhead of the Diamond (approx. 40 miles up hill) and then hiked the 7 miles to Chasm Lake and then proceeded to climb the route and make the return trip back home all in a day. That's the kinda shit that I admire. If you can do that, two a days in the valley wouldn't be all too hard.
Some of my more local heros fromt the Southeast include Doug Reed, Porter Jarrard, Doc Bayne, Andy Kluge, Hunt Prothro, Mike Artz, Kris Klein, Tony Barnes, Joey Henson, Pascal Robert, Jeep Gaskin, and Monty Reagan. Many of these guys still climb regularly and most helped develop areas and pioneer local classics.
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piton
Dec 5, 2007, 2:06 PM
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Rich Romano best ground up onsight FFA climbers around!
Same w/ Beat Kammerlander
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dingus
Dec 5, 2007, 3:01 PM
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time2clmb wrote: Calling some one a hero for simply climbing or doing any other activity seems pretty retarded.
True, but then again so is your post in this thread.
DMT
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potreroed
Dec 5, 2007, 3:44 PM
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I just read through this whole thread and am amazed that only one person named Jim Erickson and nobody named John Gill or Pete Cleveland.
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louisiana_climber
Dec 5, 2007, 4:03 PM
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what about jim bridwell? i met him in joshua tree, and he is still cranking at like 62. and he is a funny fucking guy too. and how about eric weihenmeyer, the blind guy that climbed everest, along with the other seven summits( i think he got all of them)? im not sure i would tell kids to be like the bird, but his accomplishments in climbing are indisputable.....
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keithspernak
Dec 5, 2007, 6:23 PM
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Kalk, Croft, Bacher, and Beckey, in so specific order.
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