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rendog
Sep 9, 2005, 3:58 PM
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so here we are at the time when every ice climber starts to salivate, has sharpened the tools and crampons at least twice. Yes folks once again we are drawing near to the coming ice season. It is sept 9, cold outside, and i don't know about any of yous, but I've always got one eye on the mountains looking for those tell-tale smears that start to form indicating it is time to pack things up, and take your gear out for an exploatory walk. Last year I made an attempt at R&D on Oct 18th, it was ready to see the FA of the season, only I wasn't :cry: . Ah well, i then had an entire month to climb my butt of before heading off to NS, where i was pleasantly surprised to find some very serious 5's and even a 6!!!! Unfortunatley, the partner situation down there was a bit lacking, so I didn't get out nearly as much as I wanted to. So now I'm chomping at the bit to get out, get up and get and get vertical. just thought I'd put that little bee in everyone's bonnet and get thinking about projects, incomplete climbs that have to go down this year, and basically just get ready for the most fun you can have being cold, wet and miserable... GAWD I LOVE ICE!!!!
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iceisnice
Sep 9, 2005, 5:45 PM
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i hear ya. the training has already started. got a few "projects" in mind from last season. mostly mixed stuff. need to get ready for scotland. already started some dry tooling on some road cuts. for the coloradoans.....i'm planning on a week long trip to hyalite in jan and another week to cody in march......just to give ya a heads up, hehe.
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neurostar
Sep 9, 2005, 6:07 PM
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I'm still tryin' to figure out which tools to buy!
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iceisnice
Sep 9, 2005, 6:50 PM
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don't sweat it, its not about the tools
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glyrocks
Sep 9, 2005, 6:52 PM
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Sike! I wish the ice season was that close here though... Even so, better believe I've got the tools out already.
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angelaa
Sep 9, 2005, 6:52 PM
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when I was finally in the market for tools - a group of us got together and all borrowed or rented different tools - that way we could try a lot of different ones at the same time! It worked out great - and I think we are all now pretty happy with the tools we choose! (hard to decide what to buy in a gear store) Or you could just make the monster trip to the Ouray Ice festival and try stuff out there!!!
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neurostar
Sep 9, 2005, 8:33 PM
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In reply to: don't sweat it, its not about the tools Yea, I'm not too worried about 'em. Just want to get something that works for me. I haven't picked any up because I haven't gotten to try much out yet. I'll probably end up going with the aztars or rages unless I can try a pair of the grivels and like them more...
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iceisnice
Sep 10, 2005, 1:53 AM
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kinda my point. there are no tools that "work for you". just get something and learn to use them. they are just tools (physically and metaphorically)
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euroford
Sep 10, 2005, 2:20 AM
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i hear ya. climbing ice is all i've been thinking about for the last week. i even had the tools out for a drytool session on the underside of my stairs yesterday. its time to get all of my nuetrino's off the mammut slings and onto screamers :) shopping for ice gear sucks. i went through that last year, buying screws pons and tools in one go. not only is it a financial crunch, but the decision making process and anticipation was agrivating. i'm glad this year all i have to worry about is the ice comming in! and god i hope it does, last year was a bit of a disapointment. if its good and cold i actually have a quite a bit of climbing in the neighborhood, and world class shit up north.
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tattooed_climber
Sep 10, 2005, 2:54 AM
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my west coast ice guild is starting to show wear....i need new jerk off matterial dry tooling is one thing, but i caught myself trying to place a screw into my wall the other day....wtf is up with that? as well i've been listening to WAY to much ICED EARTH....wicked band but do you guys think there's an underlining message here? :?
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anykineclimb
Sep 10, 2005, 5:36 AM
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Neurostar, FWIW, I picked up Omega Alpha's for about $100 each at Acme climbing last year. http://acmeclimbing.com/...=VIEWPROD&ProdID=102 I took them to Ouray and really liked them. Even more than a few of the "top shelf" models. They've got a good swing and of course, the price is nice. I'd reccomend them for anyone starting out. great way to get a set of tools and get onto the ice. This year, I bought Mantis' 8^)
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neurostar
Sep 10, 2005, 1:02 PM
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In reply to: kinda my point. there are no tools that "work for you". just get something and learn to use them. they are just tools (physically and metaphorically) Well, there were some who's swings I liked better than others, and such. Some just didn't feel right in my hands too. Just tryin' to be careful before I throw down a bunch of money.
In reply to: Neurostar, FWIW, I picked up Omega Alpha's for about $100 each at Acme climbing last year. http://acmeclimbing.com/...=VIEWPROD&ProdID=102 I took them to Ouray and really liked them. Even more than a few of the "top shelf" models. They've got a good swing and of course, the price is nice. I'd reccomend them for anyone starting out. great way to get a set of tools and get onto the ice. Cool. I'll check 'em out. Thanks.
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climbingbetty22
Sep 10, 2005, 4:25 PM
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In reply to: I'm still tryin' to figure out which tools to buy! No kidding. Actually, I'm just trying to come up with the money to buy tools. Note to self: whoring one's self out in a small town is not an effective way to generate a large cash flow quickly. Neuro--do you ever climb at the Barn at RIT? As to the original post, I still have projects on the rock I want to finish up before the end of the season before I can even begin thinking about ice. Then again, I'm even less then a n00b on ice, so I don't really have 'projects.' Or everything is a project, depending on your prespective. But I live close enough to the Daks that it would be a crime punishable by law to not take advantage of it.
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reno
Sep 10, 2005, 5:11 PM
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I don't want to talk about it. The only ice I'll be seeing for the immediate future will be the cubes I put in my cocktail glass... :evil: Metro Phoenix forecast Sat H: 99 L: 79 Sun H: 99 L: 76 Mon H: 96 L: 75 Tue H: 96 L: 75 Wed H: 95 L: 74 Thu H: 96 L: 74 Fri H: 96 L: 74
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lewisiarediviva
Sep 10, 2005, 7:03 PM
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We bought our season ski passes last night and of course the wind came into the valley as well and the kids are all excited practically praying that it would bring snow. I was suppose to get on the ice last winter and it didn't happen- so this year will be my first time on the ice. But I'm not salivating, I'm shaking in my boots, nervous with fear and excitement.
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rustypouch
Sep 11, 2005, 5:00 PM
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Still waiting, eh? I have been climbing ice all summer. Not very long routes, or even routes at all, but it is still climbing ice. But it will be sweet when the waterfalls are in.
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anykineclimb
Sep 14, 2005, 3:40 AM
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In reply to: I don't want to talk about it. The only ice I'll be seeing for the immediate future will be the cubes I put in my cocktail glass... :evil: Jeff, you know I got ya beat! and at least you'll be able to drive to the ice. at least I'm making some sweet moolah in the meantime. Oh yeah, heres our forecast: today: 107/ 77 thu 108/78 fri 110/77 sat 110/78 sun 110/78
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neurostar
Sep 14, 2005, 12:40 PM
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Well, I picked up a pair of tools. I found some used axars for real cheap, so I snagged those. Should be here in a week. I guess I'll have to humor myself with drytooling around campus before ice season starts ;)
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anykineclimb
Sep 14, 2005, 1:15 PM
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Sweet! Axars were the 1st tool I used.
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devkrev
Sep 14, 2005, 1:29 PM
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anyone know any good polar/ice/winter gods to whom sacrafices can be made to insure a good winter? later dev
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timd
Sep 14, 2005, 11:54 PM
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Icicles (pronounced icicleez) the greek god of vertical ice pillars can be called upon in our time of need!
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darkside
Sep 16, 2005, 1:53 AM
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In reply to: GAWD I LOVE ICE!!!! I hear ya dude. I'm moving to Calgary in November and looking forward to more than the usual two weeks of Rockies ice. A whole winter..... :D Of course I will actually miss the Ontario ice hunt and trips to Adirondack ice, but my tears will only make the ice fatter as I swing into new adventures in the Rockies. As for the tool considerations, suck it up and buy good ones. I bought the Quarks when they first came out and still have no desire to try trading them in. In the long run, it's cheaper than trading up two or three times. The top end tools have little to distinguish them beyond personal preference so the usual advise remains - buy the ones that swing good for you. This is yet another hopeless ice addict ready for treatment and reporting in. :twisted:
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neurostar
Sep 16, 2005, 4:33 AM
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In reply to: As for the tool considerations, suck it up and buy good ones. I bought the Quarks when they first came out and still have no desire to try trading them in. In the long run, it's cheaper than trading up two or three times. The top end tools have little to distinguish them beyond personal preference so the usual advise remains - buy the ones that swing good for you. Yea. My only thing is, I'm more in the market for alpine tools. I've only tried the Rages and some Camp tools (didn't like the camp tools). Picked up the axars for cheap. Which works better with my budget. I'll upgrade or buy a second set of tools in the next 2 years most likely.
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kachoong
Sep 16, 2005, 4:59 AM
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In reply to: so here we are at the time when every ice climber starts to salivate, has sharpened the tools and crampons at least twice. Yes folks once again we are drawing near to the coming ice season. Last year I made an attempt at R&D on Oct 18th.... GAWD I LOVE ICE!!!! Okay ren.... you can shut up now.... :wink: only kidding.... I'm just jealous, mate.... you guys are lucky to live in a country with regular ice routes and mountains that actually look like mountains.... I've been salivating for five years now.... my last waterfall route was in 99, my last alpine route was in 2000.... :cry: ....and now I'm moving to the states, only to have to start classes on the 17th january.... in Texas.... I waaaaaaaaaaaanna climb ice toooooooo!!!!! :? Boooo hooo hooooo.... :shock: :lol: ....alright, I'm ok now.... but I think my Grivel Rambo's, at last glance, are not only outdated SEVERELY and cramp my style, but they've rusted and fused to my crampons into one red, metallic pointy blob!
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boulderinemt
Sep 20, 2005, 7:15 PM
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The plastics have been shined, the Air Tech lights have been sharpened and polished and the G14s have had their manditory file work. everything is in order. only crappy thing is i went for a little hike way up high in the south fork sunday thinking something waaaaaayyyy high might be forming. i wore shorts. it was hot. nothing even close. but it was a fun romp. mmmmm ice.....yum yum yum.
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grk10vq
Sep 20, 2005, 7:59 PM
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Talk about eager....I sharpened my gear and packed my Ice bag in APRIL!! think Ice.
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verticon
Sep 23, 2005, 8:15 AM
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In reply to: Talk about eager....I sharpened my gear and packed my Ice bag in APRIL!! think Ice. Yeah, me too... All that stuff was standing in my way where I was looking for the rock climbing rack, so I packed everything and dumped it in a closet. But you guys are right: now it's time to reverse the process. Rock gear in the closet - Ice gear out of it !
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rendog
Sep 25, 2005, 6:27 PM
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so after driving into Banff today, I noticed a few things happening that really let me know that the ice season is truly upon us: 1. I almost drove off the road looking for "known" climbs. 2. I almsot wet my pants when I saw "Southern Wind" was forming. 3. I giggled like a little school girl and deffinately wet my pants (just a little squirt) when I saw the ice curtain forming up on the Trophy Wall, as well as seeing "Sam Goes a Treking" and "Trans-Canada Iceway" are both up. barely but they're there. teeheehehehehheheheheheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
In reply to: Okay ren.... you can shut up now.... only kidding.... I'm just jealous, mate.... you guys are lucky to live in a country with regular ice routes and mountains that actually look like mountains.... I've been salivating for five years now.... my last waterfall route was in 99, my last alpine route was in 2000.... ....and now I'm moving to the states, only to have to start classes on the 17th january.... in Texas.... I waaaaaaaaaaaanna climb ice toooooooo!!!!! Boooo hooo hooooo.... Dave read the siggy and get the hell up here man. bring Steph too.
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tradman
Sep 26, 2005, 11:42 AM
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Man, I dunno. I'm on the tail end of a beautiful sunny summer of clean, sun-warmed rock and afternoon naps on tops of rock towers. Now I'm running through my piles of winter gear and remembering the pitch dark, howling winds and seven flavours of freezing death that make all that down and thermal stuff necessary. I ain't so keen, but what's the alternative? Gym all winter? FUCK THAT!
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neurostar
Sep 26, 2005, 12:37 PM
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Half of my dreams this weekend (2 of 4) have been about ice climbing.. so I think I'm ready :wink:
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rustypouch
Sep 27, 2005, 4:03 PM
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I drove up to Jasper the other day, and Curtain Call is starting to come in... Granted, I doubt I am good enough to climb it, but it still gets me going.
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boulderinemt
Sep 27, 2005, 4:37 PM
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i could live with curtain call...new update....nothing in down here :cry: one of these days....we got snow 2 days ago...so of course the skis had to come out and be waxed for the 50th time this summer/spring....god im ready for winter
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lewisiarediviva
Sep 27, 2005, 6:49 PM
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There was snow on Hyndman the other day. I hope the fact that I can't see it today means their is more. So I'm in the market for some backcountry skis. Haven't pulled the ice ax and crampons out yet 'cause it's been in the 70's. Their is no ice in the canyon yet. All the kids can talk about is skiing. They are not happy with me at the moment because they asked when the resorts usually open, and I had to be honest and tell them that Thanksgiving is what the resort managers pray for. But I must share: We went to see Penguins and not two minutes into the begining, our 8 year old daughter says "Nice Ice Climbing!" Has anyone seen kid size ice axes and crampons?
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boulderinemt
Sep 27, 2005, 8:44 PM
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grivel makes a third tool that we have used with friend's kids before. its straight shaft and nasty, but young enough, that doesn't really matter...as for crampons :?:
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sarcat
Sep 27, 2005, 9:52 PM
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I was at the City of Rocks, ID this past weekend and saw snow in the mountains. All I could think about were my K2 Axis, Denali TTs, the new Sabretooths and the new picks I have for my Rage tools. My wife who just got done freezing on Jackson's Thumb could only talk about Southern Mexico.
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lewisiarediviva
Oct 3, 2005, 6:50 PM
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Snow possible today! Low's should be 35 tonight.
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timd
Oct 7, 2005, 3:16 AM
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Are we there yet,are we there yet,are we there yet :lol:
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lewisiarediviva
Oct 28, 2005, 1:57 PM
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Oh finally! It's foggy, it's raining, it must be snowing up their. And it's all staying for a few days! I even would go as far to say that at 3 am there were a few ice crystals in the canyon.
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sharpie
Oct 28, 2005, 2:54 PM
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In reply to: My wife who just got done freezing on Jackson's Thumb could only talk about Southern Mexico. Humm...why don't you head up to the Northen Rockies and Mrs. Sarcat and I will head down to Mea-he-co...she'll be in good hands, come on trust me...it's your buddy Sharpie 8^)
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pebbleman
Oct 28, 2005, 4:11 PM
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I'm not sure I would buy a tool with a fixed adze/hammer like the Aztar for crag use, these tools are more applicable for the Mont Blanc Massif where you might really need these features, an adze is hard to move your face around when climbing waterfall ice (and is useless for dry-tooling) plus the thing is dangerous. If you are looking for a "compromise" tool check out the Takoon by Grivel, you can use this tool fully leashless, with the leash or remove the Horn and Trigger and go "old school". I will be reviewing this tool in A FROZEN WORLD later this year (if ice ever forms up here in Colorado for me to try this thing out!).
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stymingersfink
Oct 29, 2005, 7:26 PM
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In reply to: Yea. My only thing is, I'm more in the market for alpine tools. I've only tried the Rages and some Camp tools (didn't like the camp tools). http://www.bdel.com/gear/cobra.php need I say more?
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justafurnaceman
Oct 29, 2005, 9:27 PM
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MY ICE AXES HAVE ARRIVED!! I just bought the Quarks and I'm so excited about ice climbing. I drive around with my windows down in order to start preparing myself for the cold. My co-workers don't appreciate it, especially when it's 40 degrees out. I usually turn the heat on a little for them. hahaha
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boulderinemt
Oct 31, 2005, 1:19 AM
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anybody have any ice yet? theres some stuff forming up high around here, but not enough to warrent a trip to it. im ready..bring on the snow, bring on the ice bring on the bitter cold :D
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sarcat
Oct 31, 2005, 3:24 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: My wife who just got done freezing on Jackson's Thumb could only talk about Southern Mexico. Humm...why don't you head up to the Northen Rockies and Mrs. Sarcat and I will head down to Mea-he-co...she'll be in good hands, come on trust me...it's your buddy Sharpie 8^) Ummmm....No. I don't think that would work. Ya see she's addicted to me. Must be my charm, sensuality, willingness to go shopping with her and the prescrip. of Viagra. And Sharpie, I trust you as much as a 97 Dodge Caravan w/ 143,522 miles on it.
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boulderinemt
Nov 8, 2005, 6:30 PM
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sooooo today its puking snow, cold, and i guess yesterday people started to see fangs coming down in the south fork...could it be this weekend its in? who knows, but we're definitly on the way, thank god :D
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lewisiarediviva
Nov 9, 2005, 1:11 AM
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Two snowflakes in the dog dish this morning.
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surfer_bill
Nov 9, 2005, 1:42 AM
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we had a wee bit of ice here, but the past week melted it all away. I think Central Gully on Mt Washington and The Black Dike in Franconia are the only two east coast routes that have gone yet (and in sketchy conditions at that). People have attempted Pinnacle and bailed, others have tried some in the notch and failed... Conditions reports and photos here: http://neice.com/Conditions/
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surfer_bill
Nov 9, 2005, 1:45 AM
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we had a wee bit of ice here, but the past week melted it all away. I think Central Gully on Mt Washington and The Black Dike in Franconia are the only two east coast routes that have gone yet (and in sketchy conditions at that). People have attempted Pinnacle and bailed, others have tried some in the notch and bailed... Conditions reports and photos here: http://neice.com/Conditions/
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skinner
Nov 9, 2005, 3:19 PM
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Not worthy of a TR Well, I couldn't wait and drove the Icefield Parkway the weekend before last. We arrived at 11:00pm and negotiated a cheap room at "The Crossing" since it was their last week of operations for the season. The next morning we stood at an abandon tourist parking lot near the toe, in a sloppy-wet snow storm with zero visibility. Being the hard-core dood that I am, we went back to the crossing and narfed down one of the best bacon cheeseburgers I have ever had. As the clouds lifted and the storm eased, we headed out on the parkway once more, rounding a bend only to be greeted with a free flowing Tangle Falls.. not even a single icicle in sight. Is it just me or does it just seem to be taking longer every year for things to start forming? Oh well, I was going to stick my tools in some ice no matter what, and pulled back into the tourist parking lot at the toe of the glacier. I had no sooner opened the hatchback when a ranger appeared asking me what I was up to. "If you are planning on going somewhere.. we'd really like to know about it". He said that when he saw all the gear in the back of my Jeep, that he assumed I must be planning a multi-day trip over the pass somewhere. I told him that the gear is basically always in there, I just add food and water as needed. He actually cracked a *little* smile and said that he thought that was a great idea. After reassuring him that we were only going to "look around" he left with his radio going off about a bunch of cars spun off into the ditch. We tramped over the moraine and into a little slot beside the glacier where there was a kewl *little* series of overhanging ice falls. Unfortunately it wasn't formed enough to climb so off over the glacier we went heading to the big blue blocks on the other side. I was probing my way across the glacier and turned to explain what to look for etc., while doing so I took one more step and my right leg disappeared in a crevasse right up to my crotch. It was comical to say the least. The crevasse was only a foot wide and I had probed right over it. Needless to say I was able to stick my tools in some ice, that beautiful blue plastic-like glacier ice where your tools set effortlessly with a sweet little *thunk*. That morning I was able to get some pictures (of dubious quality as it was pretty dark) to show you where some of the routes are at. They can be seen here: http://www.netspy.net/...kway/conditions.html I doubt that conditions have changed much as the temperatures have been higher on average then when I was there. BTW: Welcome back rendog, you went walkabout for a while? Figured you'd be back in time for the ice season though :wink:
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lichenmuncher
Nov 11, 2005, 2:27 AM
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:roll:
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johngenx
Nov 11, 2005, 3:43 AM
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Got an e-mail from Peter Amann today concering ice and it's NOT good. Very little is in and it's not even on it's way. We were hoping to get out on the 19-20th, but I doubt that's going to happen now. Two O'Clock Creek is usually in pretty early, and I guess the water on Highway 11 is free-flowing. No ice. Boo. :cry:
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euroford
Nov 11, 2005, 2:04 PM
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my god we are so long off around here. i've spent over half my days the last couple of weeks standing around the jobsite in a t-shirt.
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boulderinemt
Nov 14, 2005, 11:37 PM
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dude...ice is in....very happy boy today :D
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rendog
Nov 17, 2005, 12:44 AM
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In reply to: Not worthy of a TR Well, I couldn't wait and drove the Icefield Parkway the weekend before last. We arrived at 11:00pm and negotiated a cheap room at "The Crossing" since it was their last week of operations for the season. The next morning we stood at an abandon tourist parking lot near the toe, in a sloppy-wet snow storm with zero visibility. Being the hard-core dood that I am, we went back to the crossing and narfed down one of the best bacon cheeseburgers I have ever had. As the clouds lifted and the storm eased, we headed out on the parkway once more, rounding a bend only to be greeted with a free flowing Tangle Falls.. not even a single icicle in sight. Is it just me or does it just seem to be taking longer every year for things to start forming? Oh well, I was going to stick my tools in some ice no matter what, and pulled back into the tourist parking lot at the toe of the glacier. I had no sooner opened the hatchback when a ranger appeared asking me what I was up to. "If you are planning on going somewhere.. we'd really like to know about it". He said that when he saw all the gear in the back of my Jeep, that he assumed I must be planning a multi-day trip over the pass somewhere. I told him that the gear is basically always in there, I just add food and water as needed. He actually cracked a *little* smile and said that he thought that was a great idea. After reassuring him that we were only going to "look around" he left with his radio going off about a bunch of cars spun off into the ditch. We tramped over the moraine and into a little slot beside the glacier where there was a kewl *little* series of overhanging ice falls. Unfortunately it wasn't formed enough to climb so off over the glacier we went heading to the big blue blocks on the other side. I was probing my way across the glacier and turned to explain what to look for etc., while doing so I took one more step and my right leg disappeared in a crevasse right up to my crotch. It was comical to say the least. The crevasse was only a foot wide and I had probed right over it. Needless to say I was able to stick my tools in some ice, that beautiful blue plastic-like glacier ice where your tools set effortlessly with a sweet little *thunk*. That morning I was able to get some pictures (of dubious quality as it was pretty dark) to show you where some of the routes are at. They can be seen here: http://www.netspy.net/...kway/conditions.html I doubt that conditions have changed much as the temperatures have been higher on average then when I was there. BTW: Welcome back rendog, you went walkabout for a while? Figured you'd be back in time for the ice season though :wink: TY skinner, yeah I was "out and a boot" for a while there, but yeah I'm back, blown finger and all. A2 pulley....can't even hardly hold onto my axe dammit... yer story kinda sounds like mine, but at least you found the waterfall you were looking for man. my partner Mo and I decided to spend a nice relaxing day heading up to moonlight/snowline for some early season warmups. we get to the parking lot and start hiking around 9 am. 3 hrs later we're still going up and up ...and lo and behold right there in front of us is.... NO FUKING ICE dammitdammitdammitdammit. We figured out we went up the wrong creek, since waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay down below us was a cliff band that looked oddly similar to the one that is in the book hold our intended targets... back to the car, back to cowtown, first to the gym to at least pull down and get a pump on, the off to the liquor store for some bevies to ease our very stiff and sore muscles. the next day we went into a very anorexic Haffner Creek, which is where I found out I can't hold onto my axe. life is funny some times ya know..?! heading into the Ghost this weekend to go scouting. I'll keep you posted as to what I find there.
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lhwang
Nov 17, 2005, 1:07 AM
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Drove the Icefields Parkway last weekend (November 11,12,13) and there was more ice on the road than anywhere else (except maybe the road cuts). Sigh... forecast this weekend is for above zero again.
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boulderinemt
Nov 22, 2005, 7:34 PM
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for those of you familiar with cody....moratorium and all those routes are "in", or as in as they ever have been in the past 5 years. lots of stuff going on in triptych...shaping up to be a good season...hopefully the forcast of 60 for today won't come and destroy everything.
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lewisiarediviva
Nov 23, 2005, 3:19 AM
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Percent of Percipitation Forcast: Today 0% Tomarrow 0% Thanksgiving 0% Mall Shopping Day 0% Get a Tree Day 10% Sleep in Day 0% Back to Work 0% UHGUHGUHG! Give me Ice! Give me Snow!
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kailas
Nov 23, 2005, 4:32 PM
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High of 52 degrees F in Telluride yesterday, even warmer in Ouray. Not much ice or snow for that matter down in SW Colorado. :x
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pico23
Nov 23, 2005, 10:44 PM
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Forming in the Catskills. Tons of water. If it gets cold it will be a good season. It just got cold for the first time all year. Even a bit of snow. 20Fs at night the last few nights and below freezing today. Give me some local ice and snow.
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boulderinemt
Nov 29, 2005, 10:15 PM
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its cooled down again....gotta be helping the ice. been getting snow and all sorts of nasty weather...its here!!! YAYYYYY!!!!!
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porcelainsunset
Nov 29, 2005, 10:47 PM
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SNOW IN PORTLAND!!! Ok, so maybe it was like 5% snow, 95% cold ass rain, but dammit, I sill saw snow on my street in November. Man, this is making me get all antsy. Weather is such a fucking tease.
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grk10vq
Nov 29, 2005, 11:13 PM
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the price-cicle is getting fat. its also colder than a withces tit today. over.
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skinner
Nov 29, 2005, 11:33 PM
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In reply to: the next day we went into a very anorexic Haffner Creek, which is where I found out I can't hold onto my axe. You can always use leashes yano :wink:
In reply to: heading into the Ghost this weekend to go scouting. I'll keep you posted as to what I find there. Really curious as to how the Ghost is coming along.. did ya manage to make it in ?? ______________________________________________________ http://www.netspy.net/...-Grotto-Canyon02.jpg 12 yr old "young_gun" Grotto Canyon [Nov. 12th 2005]
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justafurnaceman
Nov 30, 2005, 1:34 AM
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45 degrees today! What's going on? All the ice is melting and it's too wet to rock climb. :(
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boulderinemt
Dec 6, 2005, 4:48 PM
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that sucks...it was -5 today in cody when i woke up...its a banner season in the making over here. welcome wagon is in for the first time in probably 6 years. there are climbs that people haven't seen in over a decade that are starting to show themselves...johnny a happy boy :lol:
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samesame
Dec 7, 2005, 4:03 AM
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Wow I'm so glad to see that at least some folks are enjoying what nature has to offer us. I'd love to hear what shape Ghost is in. My story is quiet sad. I lived in Calgary and once enjoyed all of the wonderfull mountains and the great range of climbing they have to offer us. BUT now due to family I am here in Ontario :( Which is beautiful, in another sense however we have no ice at the moment and the melting and renewal of snow that varies so greatly these days has inhibited climbing greatly. Please keep posting lovely photos and informing us poor easterners of your great adventures. I greatly apprecitate seeing and hearing of them. And if our wheater here can decide what the heck it's gonna do then I can share some fun of my own soon as well. Thanks :lol:
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lewisiarediviva
Dec 20, 2005, 5:19 AM
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Can you believe it! It's been below freezing for 3 weeks- and everyone in the family has been sick. I heard Conrad Anker was here and climbed, but I, of all people, missed it. It rained today. Maybe the south side is still good. But you know how a family holiday can screw things up.
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euroford
Dec 20, 2005, 3:40 PM
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last weekend we finally made it out to one of our small local spots. Cox Hollow Falls in southern WI. it was in fairly fat and we had a good 'season opener' day with each of us taking 13 toprope laps each, and then while steve was dropping the toprope i soloed up. it was sooooo nice to get out on the ice. now we just gotta drive (way) farther north.
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stymingersfink
Dec 20, 2005, 8:44 PM
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Malan's WI5, 300' (380' if full 3 pitches) (FA = G. Lowe, 1971) Waterfall Canyon, Ogden UT 12/18/05 http://i35.photobucket.com/...lans/th_DSCN0245.jpghttp://i35.photobucket.com/...lans/th_DSCN0249.jpghttp://i35.photobucket.com/...lans/th_DSCN0250.jpghttp://i35.photobucket.com/...lans/th_DSCN0251.jpg Line ascends the left side WI4+ 200' to belay at cave (rock gear or V-Thread anchor). Upon gaining the top of the grade 5 pillar/curtain, downclimb right 15' to a three-pin rap anchor. (If doing full 3 pitches+walkoff, continue up 30' of WI3+ to TCU anchor left of frozen pool instead of downclimb) Rap 100' to chains below shrub on right. http://i35.photobucket.com/...lans/th_DSCN0252.jpg Alternate line (Blue) ascends WI3 185' to chains on right side, then left up Cauliflower ramp to base of WI5 curtain. There is a 30' WI2 3rd pitch to this climb, with a walk off heading NE up the drainage 150M, then east to gain the ridge line (3rd drainage on right). Descend ESE to gully with a short 8' of 5.2 downclimb to arrive back at the base of the climb. South facing, when it's in get on it 'cause it won't be around for long. Upper pitch gets sun by 11:00am during 2nd week in December, pray for cold overcast days. Highs for the next week forecast to be in the mid forties wlong the Wasatch Front. Coupled with the 20" of snow deposited over the weekend, we may see Maple forming up soon. edited to repair broken links
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euroford
Dec 20, 2005, 8:47 PM
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wow man, really nice looking climb!
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rendog
Dec 28, 2005, 1:29 AM
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In reply to: Really curious as to how the Ghost is coming along.. did ya manage to make it in ?? ______________________________________________________ sick absolutely freakin sick man everything is in, and some new ones as well
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lewisiarediviva
Jan 16, 2006, 11:55 PM
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Well, I finally did it! I put on my crampons for the first time ever. I put my ice ax in my hand and I started up the chute that was full of snow, hit a tad of ice that broke beneath me, then meandered through some good holds on some rocks. Then I came around the cliff and down climbed a bit then traversed the rock and snow back to where I started. That was a hoot! (Also today I was able to ski down a tiny slope in my mountaineering boots and silvretta's with out falling- I have a lot of work still though.)
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stymingersfink
Jan 18, 2006, 9:56 PM
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Cody was still in pretty fat first week of Jan. Moratorium was in nicely, Moonrise was wet fun, Spying n Flyin (don't bother with dropping down to the river as of last week) was throwing a nice tubular curtain up on p4 (nice lead matt!) and oh, did i mention the pillar of pain? Check it: http://i35.photobucket.com/...Pain/th_IMG_4025.jpg want to see the rest?
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rendog
Aug 27, 2006, 8:13 PM
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So I thought I'd resurrect this old thread. Instead of posting a new one saying the exact same thing. WELL WELL WELL LADIES AND GERMS! (hiya germ! :LOL:) once again it's near the end of rock season and quickly approaching the coming ice season. Time to get your picks sharpened up, rack and re-rack your screamers (AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH) btw that is the rule eh....everytime you clip a screamer you've got to let out a scream...then watch you partners face....it's priceless....:lol: Start scoping out those wet streaks high up and start making bets as to which one is going to come in firs. anyone else have any thoughts ont he impending ice season?
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tb69hikeclimb
Aug 27, 2006, 8:20 PM
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can't wait just yesterday I my new neighbor learned I was a freak, :shock: as he watched me climb my barn with crampons and a pair of grival monsters...... good maybe the son of a bitch will stay in his own yard now :twisted:
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rendog
Aug 27, 2006, 8:41 PM
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In reply to: can't wait just yesterday I my new neighbor learned I was a freak, :shock: as he watched me climb my barn with crampons and a pair of grival monsters...... good maybe the son of a b---- will stay in his own yard now :twisted: YEAH SEE this is the kind of things I'm looking for! nice action man! anyone else? KMAN! DARKSIDE! POLARWID! ICEISNICE! lets get a massive call out to all the sick fucks out there that like to do this shit!
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darkside
Aug 27, 2006, 11:18 PM
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:roll: Oh come on now, I didn't start babbling about ice already? Actually I was hoping to check out some of the alpine ice around mid September but as this is my first September in the Rockies - I'm looking for suggestions. I guess I'd better start talking to the contacts I have at BD about the screws I lost last winter :? I've already been considering what new toys I'll get to play with this winter. I'll be posting some reviews after trying some of the new ice/alpine gear. I'm hoping to check out the new DMM Anarchist. Not heard of it yet? It's DMM's new leashless offering and it's very pretty :D
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rendog
Aug 28, 2006, 12:35 AM
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PBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBT
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physics
Aug 28, 2006, 12:52 AM
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my favorite type of screwing happens on ice. actually I was able to get 4 ice screws through on my carry-on from PDX-LAX last week but they found and took my toothpaste. screw them, they can keep my toothpaste. I'm ready for some ice baby!
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flying_dutchman
Aug 28, 2006, 12:50 PM
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right, school tuition is all paid up for the year, now what's first, boots? Then crampons? Let's see what this whole ice addiction thing realy is. I didn't pick nw ontario for the rockclimbing... fuking choss. Freeze baby.
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lewisiarediviva
Aug 28, 2006, 1:23 PM
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:drama: Rock is over! Already? I've been on once! But I can't complain about the mountains. Well, this year I am going to make a new car rule. Every time we cross the bridge every child in the Trooper must look at the North Side of the canyon and give me a report. Other things WILL be canceled when the time is right- and I WILL get on some ICE!
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chossmonkey
Aug 29, 2006, 1:32 AM
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In reply to: anyone else have any thoughts ont he impending ice season? I was thinking of starting a new one or resurrecting this thread a couple of weeks ago! I didn't want to seem like I was jumping the gun though. :oops: Brent_E and I have been out drytooling twice in the last week or so. :twisted: The best part is THIS. :D
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pebbleman
Aug 29, 2006, 7:12 PM
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I did my last mixed route exactly 5 months ago. A week hasn't gone by since when I haven't had my tools out on plastic. Who's ready? Anyone?
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sick_climba
Sep 1, 2006, 2:34 AM
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In reply to: So I thought I'd resurrect this old thread. Instead of posting a new one saying the exact same thing. WELL WELL WELL LADIES AND GERMS! (hiya germ! :LOL:) once again it's near the end of rock season and quickly approaching the coming ice season. Time to get your picks sharpened up, rack and re-rack your screamers (AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH) btw that is the rule eh....everytime you clip a screamer you've got to let out a scream...then watch you partners face....it's priceless....:lol: Start scoping out those wet streaks high up and start making bets as to which one is going to come in firs. anyone else have any thoughts ont he impending ice season? CAN"T FREAKING WAIT, I personaly have only gone a couple times and have only tr'd but man I am hook ... i love it!
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kman
Sep 1, 2006, 3:52 AM
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Oh shit yeah!!! WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOT!!! 2 more work shifts for me before the tools come out. :lol:
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andypro
Sep 1, 2006, 3:53 AM
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Hey, at least you dont have all that nice canadian air cpomming across the lake and warming up before it gets to you :evil: Buffalo, ny, area EVERYONE around us gets snow and ice, and we get rain and 34 degrees :cry: But...it's already been colder by20 degrees than it was last summer, so I'm hoping the trend continues! (Wahoo! Finally got 800! Effin work keeps me from whoring my postcount :lol: )
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porcelainsunset
Sep 1, 2006, 5:47 AM
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I just hope that the Columbia River george frezes up again this year. Last year it did, for 7 days, which dose not happen often in Oregon. My Ice Tools arived at my house one day after it all thawed. :cry: This year, I am so ready. I can't wait. When I get my tools out to play with them, it's hard to resist climbing the drywall in my apartment. :twisted:
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porcelainsunset
Sep 1, 2006, 5:50 AM
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Oh, and I'm not fucking missing Ouray Either this year!
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rendog
Sep 1, 2006, 6:22 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: anyone else have any thoughts ont he impending ice season? it's gunna be cold and FAT! just like your mother. HEY she is not cold! She's a very warm woman who if you happened to drop my name around her, seh'd probably find room somewhere in town for you and a posse for free. Mind you that is unless all you's from the east get sick and tired of climbing all that big ass ice around TBay!
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brent_e
Sep 1, 2006, 9:44 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: anyone else have any thoughts ont he impending ice season? it's gunna be cold and FAT! just like your mother. HEY she is not cold! She's a very warm woman who if you happened to drop my name around her, seh'd probably find room somewhere in town for you and a posse for free. Mind you that is unless all you's from the east get sick and tired of climbing all that big ass ice around TBay! :lol: man, i hope i get to go up there this year. A friend of mine just asked me if i want to try and get up to yellowknife for around christmas, though. You think that there is any ice up there??? :D Brent
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chossmonkey
Sep 5, 2006, 2:54 PM
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There might be but there won't be any light to see it. :lol: Dude, if you go off anywhere we are going to TB somewhere else good that doesn't take a week just to get there.
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brent_e
Sep 5, 2006, 11:41 PM
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In reply to: There might be but there won't be any light to see it. :lol: Dude, if you go off anywhere we are going to TB somewhere else good that doesn't take a week just to get there. it doesn't take that long, chossy. We made it in 17 hours in the snow!!! but yeah, yellowknife won't have any light. Sucky.
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kachoong
Sep 6, 2006, 2:11 AM
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[hands] La la lalalalala laaaaa laaaal lalalalalalalalalal [/hands] ....complaining about the light, eh?..... :roll: ....here I am.... a lover of ice.... living in Texas.... I'm sure there's a complaint in there somewhere.... anyhoo, my axes are truly a rusted mess these days.... :( I'll be lucky to find ice to cool my beer this year. 8^)
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brent_e
Sep 6, 2006, 2:20 AM
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In reply to: [hands] La la lalalalala laaaaa laaaal lalalalalalalalalal [/hands] ....complaining about the light, eh?..... :roll: ....here I am.... a lover of ice.... living in Texas.... I'm sure there's a complaint in there somewhere.... anyhoo, my axes are truly a rusted mess these days.... :( I'll be lucky to find ice to cool my beer this year. 8^) hey man, you can come up here during winter and not climb with me. it would be rad...and fat.... Brent
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kachoong
Sep 6, 2006, 2:26 AM
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In reply to: hey man, you can come up here during winter and not climb with me. it would be rad...and fat.... By not climbing, do you mean drink beer? :P I'll be lucky to cross the border this winter.... unless of course the annual alien-beating round-up festival is a success.... I'll make sure they chase me north and not south. :wink:
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anykineclimb
Sep 6, 2006, 4:04 AM
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Getting the rack ready. slowly building up the screws... even gots me a few Grivel 360s for $39/ea 8^)
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brent_e
Sep 7, 2006, 2:54 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: hey man, you can come up here during winter and not climb with me. it would be rad...and fat.... By not climbing, do you mean drink beer? :P I'll be lucky to cross the border this winter.... unless of course the annual alien-beating round-up festival is a success.... I'll make sure they chase me north and not south. :wink: like cch, or like extra terrestrial? :?: Brent
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brent_e
Sep 7, 2006, 2:54 PM
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In reply to: Getting the rack ready. slowly building up the screws... even gots me a few Grivel 360s for $39/ea 8^) :shock: .....where did you get that deal?????
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chossmonkey
Sep 7, 2006, 4:06 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: There might be but there won't be any light to see it. :lol: Dude, if you go off anywhere we are going to TB somewhere else good that doesn't take a week just to get there. it doesn't take that long, chossy. We made it in 17 hours in the snow!!! but yeah, yellowknife won't have any light. Sucky. I meant Yellow Knife will take a week to get to. Although, I bet if we stopped everytime we saw some ice or new of another place along the way to TB it could take a week. :D The leaves are starting to show noticable color (or colour since I'm in Canada) change. The countdown has begun! 8^)
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kachoong
Sep 7, 2006, 6:28 PM
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In reply to: Getting the rack ready. slowly building up the screws... even gots me a few Grivel 360s for $39/ea 8^) Damn! That is a good deal... especially when you consider it's in Canadian Francs.... or is that Yen? :? :wink:
In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: hey man, you can come up here during winter and not climb with me. it would be rad...and fat.... By not climbing, do you mean drink beer? :P I'll be lucky to cross the border this winter.... unless of course the annual alien-beating round-up festival is a success.... I'll make sure they chase me north and not south. :wink: like cch, or like extra terrestrial? :?: Brent ....as in Australian alien.... LMAO!!!
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rockguide
Sep 7, 2006, 6:35 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Getting the rack ready. slowly building up the screws... even gots me a few Grivel 360s for $39/ea 8^) Damn! That is a good deal... especially when you consider it's in Canadian Francs.... or is that Yen? :? :wink: Canadian Pesos
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brent_e
Sep 7, 2006, 8:23 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: There might be but there won't be any light to see it. :lol: Dude, if you go off anywhere we are going to TB somewhere else good that doesn't take a week just to get there. it doesn't take that long, chossy. We made it in 17 hours in the snow!!! but yeah, yellowknife won't have any light. Sucky. I meant Yellow Knife will take a week to get to. Although, I bet if we stopped everytime we saw some ice or new of another place along the way to TB it could take a week. :D The leaves are starting to show noticable color (or colour since I'm in Canada) change. The countdown has begun! 8^) there are a few places to stop, too!!! there is one that is likely 50 ft of hard, thin WI. But if you fell or tripped or siddled the wrong way you'd get creamed by a truck - it's right on the highway in a roadcut!
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stymingersfink
Sep 8, 2006, 12:02 AM
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In reply to: There might be but there won't be any light to see it. :lol: That's what headlamps are for, right? ... afterall, who wants to see just how scary that thing you're kicking front points into really is? :)
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anykineclimb
Sep 8, 2006, 4:28 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Getting the rack ready. slowly building up the screws... even gots me a few Grivel 360s for $39/ea 8^) :shock: .....where did you get that deal????? lol knew that'd get someones attention! the local shop has em. theres a few left...
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chossmonkey
Sep 8, 2006, 9:15 PM
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In reply to: knew that'd get someones attention! the local shop has em. theres a few left... Are you crazy! Why didn't you buy them all for that price. :roll:
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anykineclimb
Sep 9, 2006, 6:19 AM
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yeah, I'll probably pick up more with the next paycheck...
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the_climber
Sep 12, 2006, 9:13 PM
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I NEEEEEEEEEEEEED ICE! I'M JONESIN' BAD! IT'S ONLY A MONTH OR TWO AWAY, BUT IT'S BAD... I NEED HELP! Just a little ice.... please.... I mean is this really to much to ask for? The tool are tuned up. http://www.gravsports.com/...iptions/IMG_2417.JPG
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trebork2
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Sep 12, 2006, 9:42 PM
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DDDDDDDDDRRRRRRRRROOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ah I can't wait!
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stymingersfink
Sep 12, 2006, 10:41 PM
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In reply to: I NEEEEEEEEEEEEED ICE! I'M JONESIN' BAD! IT'S ONLY A MONTH OR TWO AWAY, BUT IT'S BAD... I NEED HELP! Just a little ice.... please.... I mean is this really to much to ask for? The tool are tuned up. http://www.gravsports.com/...iptions/IMG_2417.JPG you fucky-lucker! that's in your back yard, isn't it. ok, I'm jealous. Does any body have a napkin so I can clean myself up?
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brent_e
Sep 12, 2006, 11:17 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I NEEEEEEEEEEEEED ICE! I'M JONESIN' BAD! IT'S ONLY A MONTH OR TWO AWAY, BUT IT'S BAD... I NEED HELP! Just a little ice.... please.... I mean is this really to much to ask for? The tool are tuned up. http://www.gravsports.com/...iptions/IMG_2417.JPG you f----lucker! that's in your back yard, isn't it. ok, I'm jealous. Does any body have a napkin so I can clean myself up? :robert: use my bandana. That's a sweet flow! Looks like a lot of fun!!! I need to start sharpening things up!
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boulderinemt
Sep 12, 2006, 11:30 PM
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:lol: im ready...im ready....money for the new rambos is in pocket....[pweese] make it come quick :lol: :righton:
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kachoong
Sep 12, 2006, 11:43 PM
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Damn!! That sucker's in already! Go awn.... git up it!
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the_climber
Sep 12, 2006, 11:44 PM
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I tell you what.... you bring that 'fully stocked' fridge up here and you have a place to crash I'll even cut you a deal on the gass mony to get into the ghost! I mean daaaaaaaaaaaaaammmmmmmmmmmnnnnnnnnn boy :shock: that's a lot of beer!
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kachoong
Sep 12, 2006, 11:56 PM
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In reply to: I tell you what.... you bring that 'fully stocked' fridge up here and you have a place to crash I'll even cut you a deal on the gass mony to get into the ghost! I mean daaaaaaaaaaaaaammmmmmmmmmmnnnnnnnnn boy :shock: that's a lot of beer! ....oh yeah.... should do us for a few days at least.... problem is, it's what? about 2000 miles one way to The Ghost from here.... that's around three days straight driving and around 60 gallons of fuel, if it's an economic car....
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brent_e
Sep 13, 2006, 1:53 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: I tell you what.... you bring that 'fully stocked' fridge up here and you have a place to crash I'll even cut you a deal on the gass mony to get into the ghost! I mean daaaaaaaaaaaaaammmmmmmmmmmnnnnnnnnn boy :shock: that's a lot of beer! ....oh yeah.... should do us for a few days at least.... problem is, it's what? about 2000 miles one way to The Ghost from here.... that's around three days straight driving and around 60 gallons of fuel, if it's an economic car.... he's right, man - that's a lot of beer....but....thank god....no budweiser in there!!! :lol: the second pictures put up is insane!!! where is that?!!?
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stymingersfink
Sep 13, 2006, 2:14 AM
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...so if i had to sneak into canada, would i be considered a frost-back, or does that only work if I were going the other way? :) :wink:
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kachoong
Sep 13, 2006, 2:19 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: I tell you what.... you bring that 'fully stocked' fridge up here and you have a place to crash I'll even cut you a deal on the gass mony to get into the ghost! I mean daaaaaaaaaaaaaammmmmmmmmmmnnnnnnnnn boy :shock: that's a lot of beer! ....oh yeah.... should do us for a few days at least.... problem is, it's what? about 2000 miles one way to The Ghost from here.... that's around three days straight driving and around 60 gallons of fuel, if it's an economic car.... he's right, man - that's a lot of beer....but....thank god....no budweiser in there!!! :lol: the second pictures put up is insane!!! where is that?!!? ....hell no.... no Bud! Yuk!! Just like there's no Fosters! Blechhh!!! ....as for the pic.... my guess is it's Hydrophobia, but I could be way off....
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brent_e
Sep 13, 2006, 2:47 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: I tell you what.... you bring that 'fully stocked' fridge up here and you have a place to crash I'll even cut you a deal on the gass mony to get into the ghost! I mean daaaaaaaaaaaaaammmmmmmmmmmnnnnnnnnn boy :shock: that's a lot of beer! ....oh yeah.... should do us for a few days at least.... problem is, it's what? about 2000 miles one way to The Ghost from here.... that's around three days straight driving and around 60 gallons of fuel, if it's an economic car.... he's right, man - that's a lot of beer....but....thank god....no budweiser in there!!! :lol: the second pictures put up is insane!!! where is that?!!? ....hell no.... no Bud! Yuk!! Just like there's no Fosters! Blechhh!!! ....as for the pic.... my guess is it's Hydrophobia, but I could be way off.... man bud is garbage. i'll look up hydrophobia. Thanks!!!
In reply to: ...so if i had to sneak into canada, would i be considered a frost-back, or does that only work if I were going the other way? Frost back, eh? :lol: I really can't say. are you mexican?
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the_climber
Sep 13, 2006, 3:20 PM
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WAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY off on Hydro. It's in the area though :lol: :lol: Any other takers?
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kachoong
Sep 13, 2006, 4:29 PM
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In reply to: WAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY off on Hydro. It's in the area though :lol: :lol: Any other takers? Yeah, I figured, since Hydrophobia is a sh!t-load steeper.... ....like this.... http://www.sawback.com/.../hydrophobia_med.gif I haven't been in the area, but have heard a lot about the Ghost. Is the route you posted the headwall at the end of House and Sky?
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the_climber
Sep 13, 2006, 5:19 PM
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In reply to: So, what should i dae? You should plan a trip to the Great Canadian Chossies (I mean Rockies) Best Ice in the World! Granted, Scotland has some great and amazing ice, when it comes in. I've climbed with some Scots who are all over the whole Scottish mixed/gulley/get what you can climbing, and all I have to say is Scotland must breed climbers with big balls :shock:
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stymingersfink
Sep 13, 2006, 6:03 PM
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In reply to: Frost back, eh? :lol: I really can't say. are you mexican? Um, no. That's what illegal canadians are called around here... or so I've heard. Just wondering if it works both ways!
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brent_e
Sep 13, 2006, 10:10 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Frost back, eh? :lol: I really can't say. are you mexican? Um, no. That's what illegal canadians are called around here... or so I've heard. Just wondering if it works both ways! makes sense. I don't think we call you anything. Or not the people i know, anyhow. I may have heard the odd "yank" statement. Hydro looks really nice (above). Is it prone the avalanches, though? looks like a funnel.
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the_climber
Sep 13, 2006, 11:10 PM
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Brent, Hydro is in the ghost... Like all areas there is the potential to have avi hazard, but the ghost is typically an area with quite low avi hazard. You are only in the first couple peaks for the most part. The area is prone to high winds and chinooks, so unless there is a recent snow event, or the wierdest snowpask you could think of, it's not so much of a concern as say it is in Field (Mt. stephan and the Beer climbs). The Ghost is one of my first choices when the avi hazard suchs everywhere else.
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brent_e
Sep 14, 2006, 12:43 AM
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the_climber thanks for the beta!
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rendog
Sep 16, 2006, 3:51 AM
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almost looks like the sorcerer. Haven't climbed it though. yeah Brent the Ghost is the shit!!!! just go in there and camp or you can stay at the pad. Anyone on here only has to ask and chances are that I've got room for you at the house. it's a 1.5 hr drive to the bottom of the big hill from my front door. Don't need the big ass 4x4 like you used to back in the day, but a bit of clearance is neccessary
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darkside
Sep 16, 2006, 7:33 PM
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In reply to: almost looks like the sorcerer. Haven't climbed it though. yeah Brent the Ghost is the s---!!!! just go in there and camp or you can stay at the pad. Anyone on here only has to ask and chances are that I've got room for you at the house. it's a 1.5 hr drive to the bottom of the big hill from my front door. Don't need the big ass 4x4 like you used to back in the day, but a bit of clearance is neccessary I wouldn't be so sure. Last time I went in there I saw a nice oil spill at the base of a washed out berm where the road used to be. A 4ft clearance may have helped although I'm not sure even 4x4 would have got back up the washout. I'm pretty sure the first pic was The Ice Funnel but I'm not too sure about the second. It's definitely not hydrophobia but I'm not too sure about the Sorcerer either. I've never seen the Sorcerer but a couple of things don't match photos I've seen, like all the other ice flows alongside. Unless it's a close up of just part of the route. Either way - wanna try the Sorcerer this winter Darran? 210m of IV W5 fun and you can even take the scary bits if you want :twisted:
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rendog
Sep 16, 2006, 9:48 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: almost looks like the sorcerer. Haven't climbed it though. yeah Brent the Ghost is the s---!!!! just go in there and camp or you can stay at the pad. Anyone on here only has to ask and chances are that I've got room for you at the house. it's a 1.5 hr drive to the bottom of the big hill from my front door. Don't need the big ass 4x4 like you used to back in the day, but a bit of clearance is neccessary I wouldn't be so sure. Last time I went in there I saw a nice oil spill at the base of a washed out berm where the road used to be. A 4ft clearance may have helped although I'm not sure even 4x4 would have got back up the washout. I'm pretty sure the first pic was The Ice Funnel but I'm not too sure about the second. It's definitely not hydrophobia but I'm not too sure about the Sorcerer either. I've never seen the Sorcerer but a couple of things don't match photos I've seen, like all the other ice flows alongside. Unless it's a close up of just part of the route. Either way - wanna try the Sorcerer this winter Darran? 210m of IV W5 fun and you can even take the scary bits if you want :twisted: Yeah I'min for that one man. Maybe even hydro too. but we're going to take my car as you'll probably want a new car and roll your new one as we get out of there on the gravel road :LOL:
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brent_e
Sep 16, 2006, 9:59 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: almost looks like the sorcerer. Haven't climbed it though. yeah Brent the Ghost is the s---!!!! just go in there and camp or you can stay at the pad. Anyone on here only has to ask and chances are that I've got room for you at the house. it's a 1.5 hr drive to the bottom of the big hill from my front door. Don't need the big ass 4x4 like you used to back in the day, but a bit of clearance is neccessary I wouldn't be so sure. Last time I went in there I saw a nice oil spill at the base of a washed out berm where the road used to be. A 4ft clearance may have helped although I'm not sure even 4x4 would have got back up the washout. I'm pretty sure the first pic was The Ice Funnel but I'm not too sure about the second. It's definitely not hydrophobia but I'm not too sure about the Sorcerer either. I've never seen the Sorcerer but a couple of things don't match photos I've seen, like all the other ice flows alongside. Unless it's a close up of just part of the route. Either way - wanna try the Sorcerer this winter Darran? 210m of IV W5 fun and you can even take the scary bits if you want :twisted: Yeah I'min for that one man. Maybe even hydro too. but we're going to take my car as you'll probably want a new car and roll your new one as we get out of there on the gravel road :LOL: :lol: how did that turn out, Grant? You all healed up and such? and WI5!? man, that's :robert: you guys must, like, use leashes and stuff. :lol: climb hard! Brent
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raoulthepoolboy
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Sep 16, 2006, 11:12 PM
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rendog
Sep 17, 2006, 2:21 AM
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I am Raoul. and I am the pool boy lmmfao!!!!!
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raoulthepoolboy
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Sep 18, 2006, 1:59 AM
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rendog
Sep 20, 2006, 5:26 AM
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have you finished your memoirs yet? you should drop me a line when you do. :wink:
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raoulthepoolboy
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Sep 20, 2006, 3:31 PM
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the_climber
Sep 20, 2006, 3:44 PM
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Ice Funnel is right. As For the other one... It's stuff that came in a couple of winters ago, but as far as I know it's still unclimbed. I pulled the pic off of Gadd's site. It's in waiprous though. There is definitely new lines to be had in the whole area if your willing to hike past where the rest of the crowds stop (by crowd I mean mor than one other party, Hint... you have to go far). And oh, it is out there. On a happy note, I saw smears up by Twisted sister on the weekend, and the snow storm we had out here last weekend should provide a good water source for the freeze/thaw climbs. 1m of snow in some areas. Just shy of a metre at the Kain hut in the Bugs. :lol: :lol: The Ice is coming. :robert: :twisted: :twisted: Bwaaahahahaha! :tinfoilhat:
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raoulthepoolboy
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Sep 21, 2006, 12:10 AM
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rendog
Sep 21, 2006, 2:49 AM
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beautiful so glad to hear you are still alive mon ami! I have been thinking about maybe doing a biography, but then again I don't think anyone would believe the things you've done
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darkside
Sep 22, 2006, 10:15 AM
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In reply to: how did that turn out, Grant? You all healed up and such? and WI5!? man, that's :robert: you guys must, like, use leashes and stuff. :lol: climb hard! Brent I was never really injured, just minor, but I'm still waiting for the cheque :evil: only been two fricken months now nearly. Hey for anyone in the Calgary area looking for a booster shot for the ice season, there is a great slideshow on the 30th September. CASA has organized a show with not one, but two great presenters - Will Gadd from Canmore, and Andrew Brash from Calgary talking about his rescue efforts on Everest this year. It's a fundraiser for access efforts by CASA so come on out. Details can be found in the link in the events section of RC.com's home page. Anyone that comes out should say hi to me and identify yourselves, I'm the CASA board member with the mohawk. :righton:
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darkside
Sep 22, 2006, 10:22 AM
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....or click the webpage link in my profile, or below this post.
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the_climber
Sep 26, 2006, 9:50 PM
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New Boots, crampons adjusted, tools sharpened, screws tuned up, climbing partner likely picking up soft shell for me from China (maybe pants too... ya I have :robert: climbing partners), overnight temps in Lake Louise/Icefields/Much of K-Country below zero :lol: :lol: :righton: , and, and ,and,..... Where's the ICE!!!!!!!!!!!!! :!:
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the_climber
Sep 26, 2006, 9:54 PM
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On a related note, what's teh earliest everyone here has ice climbed? Alpine ice doesn't count, but water ice for that season in the alpine does. I think Oct 8th to 10th ish would be the earliest I have managed. That's what, less than two weeks away?!
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chossmonkey
Sep 26, 2006, 10:06 PM
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In reply to: On a related note, what's teh earliest everyone here has ice climbed? Alpine ice doesn't count, but water ice for that season in the alpine does. I think Oct 8th to 10th ish would be the earliest I have managed. That's what, less than two weeks away?! Um, I think they have been climbing WI all summer in the Southern Hemisphere. :lol:
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the_climber
Sep 26, 2006, 10:26 PM
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Monkey want a cookie? Smart monkey :lol:
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dps
Sep 27, 2006, 1:06 AM
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Here in CO, the earliest I have gotten on WI is late september, around the 20th or so. This year was no different, already got a full day in. :D
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chossmonkey
Sep 27, 2006, 1:40 AM
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In reply to: Here in CO, the earliest I have gotten on WI is late september, around the 20th or so. This year was no different, already got a full day in. :D LIAR I say!!!! Lets see pictures. :D
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dps
Sep 27, 2006, 1:44 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Here in CO, the earliest I have gotten on WI is late september, around the 20th or so. This year was no different, already got a full day in. :D LIAR I say!!!! Lets see pictures. :D believe it or not! 8^)
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chossmonkey
Sep 27, 2006, 2:04 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Here in CO, the earliest I have gotten on WI is late september, around the 20th or so. This year was no different, already got a full day in. :D LIAR I say!!!! Lets see pictures. :D believe it or not! 8^) Sitting on ice cubes doesn't count. :roll:
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anykineclimb
Sep 27, 2006, 2:04 AM
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I've heard such things... I need to investigate
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dps
Sep 27, 2006, 2:28 AM
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In reply to: I've heard such things... I need to investigate What have you heard?
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the_climber
Sep 27, 2006, 3:13 AM
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I refuse to belive that they are climbing ice in the States before Canada! That said, for everyone in the Canadian Chossies... Fess up, who's seen it and where did you see it? Anyone been down the icefields parkway recently?
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kman
Sep 27, 2006, 3:20 AM
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In reply to: I refuse to belive that they are climbing ice in the States before Canada! That said, for everyone in the Canadian Chossies... Fess up, who's seen it and where did you see it? Anyone been down the icefields parkway recently? I'll be taking a drive through there next Tuesday or Wed, and will have my camera with me.
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skinner
Sep 27, 2006, 4:07 AM
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Here's a report from last year by W.G. on Sept. 30th
In reply to: September 30th, General, Will Gadd I drove up to Jasper a few days ago, there is a LOT of ice forming already. Somebody has probably already been out and climbed something up high. Anyhow, Riptide is forming nicely for a change, Slipstream is very nearly totally formed (just missing the bottom bit), there's ice all over the Trophy Wall. It's been a wet (OK, miserable in general) fall for rock climbing, there is more ground water around than I've ever seen. It's never totally sure, but I think this is going to be an epic fall season! My bet is that we'll be climbing on the Trophy Wall by the end of October... Get yer binoculars out, dust off the tools, game on! That definitely was the wettest year I ever remember. Will was right though, It made for some unbelievable ice and in places where none had existed before. -Kevin
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skinner
Sep 27, 2006, 4:09 AM
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Here's a report from last year by W.G. on Sept. 30th
In reply to: September 30th, General, Will Gadd I drove up to Jasper a few days ago, there is a LOT of ice forming already. Somebody has probably already been out and climbed something up high. Anyhow, Riptide is forming nicely for a change, Slipstream is very nearly totally formed (just missing the bottom bit), there's ice all over the Trophy Wall. It's been a wet (OK, miserable in general) fall for rock climbing, there is more ground water around than I've ever seen. It's never totally sure, but I think this is going to be an epic fall season! My bet is that we'll be climbing on the Trophy Wall by the end of October... Get yer binoculars out, dust off the tools, game on! That definitely was the wettest year I ever remember. Will was right though, It made for some unbelievable ice and in places where none had existed before. -Kevin
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skinner
Sep 27, 2006, 4:10 AM
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Here's a report from last year by W.G. on Sept. 30th
In reply to: September 30th, General, Will Gadd I drove up to Jasper a few days ago, there is a LOT of ice forming already. Somebody has probably already been out and climbed something up high. Anyhow, Riptide is forming nicely for a change, Slipstream is very nearly totally formed (just missing the bottom bit), there's ice all over the Trophy Wall. It's been a wet (OK, miserable in general) fall for rock climbing, there is more ground water around than I've ever seen. It's never totally sure, but I think this is going to be an epic fall season! My bet is that we'll be climbing on the Trophy Wall by the end of October... Get yer binoculars out, dust off the tools, game on! That definitely was the wettest year I ever remember. Will was right though, It made for some unbelievable ice and in places where none had existed before. -Kevin
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anykineclimb
Sep 27, 2006, 4:21 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: I've heard such things... I need to investigate What have you heard? A couple of guys at shelf mentioned that some areas were "in"
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skinner
Sep 27, 2006, 5:13 AM
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This is getting ridiculous. General Error Failed sending email :: You cannot make another post so soon after your last; please try again in a short while. General Error Failed sending email :: You cannot make another post so soon after your last; please try again in a short while. General Error Failed sending email :: and then it turns out it is posted three times! Sorry, but you may not delete posts that have been replied to.
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darkside
Sep 27, 2006, 5:24 AM
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In reply to: I refuse to belive that they are climbing ice in the States before Canada! That said, for everyone in the Canadian Chossies... Fess up, who's seen it and where did you see it? Anyone been down the icefields parkway recently? Field was pretty dry last Saturday and the temps weren't low enough. I don't think they got as much snow as K-Country. Yoho was a little damper but still no ice. On the more encouraging side, while snow in Rogers Pass was gone, the peaks around the pass still had snow around the ridges and summits. Never mind sharpening picks, you'll only ding them while the ice is thin. If you really want to start prepping for the season, stick your fingers into the freezer or dip them in ice water. :twisted:
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the_climber
Sep 27, 2006, 2:54 PM
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In reply to: Field was pretty dry last Saturday and the temps weren't low enough. I don't think they got as much snow as K-Country. Yoho was a little damper but still no ice. I was hoping for more, but beggers can't be..... damnit beggers can be! Where is it? :D
In reply to: Never mind sharpening picks, you'll only ding them while the ice is thin. If you really want to start prepping for the season, stick your fingers into the freezer or dip them in ice water. :twisted: Ah, yes. By sharpended in my other post I mean tuned up. ie, sharpen the late season dings from last time and tune down a little for thin conditions. Good point to bring up. Grant, where would I get advance (in lou of a credit card) tickets to the CASA show on saturday?
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mother_sheep
Sep 27, 2006, 3:36 PM
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I'd bet money that DPS is telling the truth. The past 2 years that I've climbed ice, Sharpie and I have gotten out early Fall. So this ice you speak of. . .is it located on a very big Peak in RMNP or on a very Big Peak located off of a pass named after a football team?
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darkside
Sep 28, 2006, 3:55 AM
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In reply to: Grant, where would I get advance (in lou of a credit card) tickets to the CASA show on saturday? In Calgary, advance tickets are available from MEC or Wicked Gravity. Both locations will be happy to accept cash :wink: Say hi when you come Saturday, I'll have a name tag on.
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rendog
Sep 28, 2006, 9:24 PM
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In reply to: Say hi when you come Saturday, I'll have a name tag on. It'll say: "Hi I''m a crazy assed mofo" plus I think the mohawk will be a dead give away.
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jhattan
Sep 28, 2006, 11:07 PM
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This is what I have in my backyard right now: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=79016 Granite Falls, located in northern end of the Wind River Range. It's about 60 miles from Pinedale, and you can drive to within 2 miles of the ice on crappy forest road. This picture was taken yesterday, 9/27, but the ice was in similar condition last week. Oh, and no one around here ice climbs, so I have it to myself! Jealous? :D
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brent_e
Sep 28, 2006, 11:14 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Say hi when you come Saturday, I'll have a name tag on. It'll say: "Hi I''m a crazy assed mofo" plus I think the mohawk will be a dead give away. :lol: :lol: :lol: YOU have a mohawk? you punk. what are you...like, 16??? :lol: Best! Brent
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chossmonkey
Sep 29, 2006, 3:21 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Say hi when you come Saturday, I'll have a name tag on. It'll say: "Hi I''m a crazy assed mofo" plus I think the mohawk will be a dead give away. :lol: :lol: :lol: YOU have a mohawk? you punk. what are you...like, 16??? :lol: Best! Brent I think it was the mohawk that got him into trouble coming back from the Bugs. Mohawks make you want to destroy everything. :lol:
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darkside
Sep 30, 2006, 2:04 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Say hi when you come Saturday, I'll have a name tag on. It'll say: "Hi I''m a crazy assed mofo" plus I think the mohawk will be a dead give away. :lol: :lol: :lol: YOU have a mohawk? you punk. what are you...like, 16??? :lol: Best! Brent I think it was the mohawk that got him into trouble coming back from the Bugs. Mohawks make you want to destroy everything. :lol: Fo yo mofo. Ah'll kick yer face in if yer say it agenn :twisted: BTW that's 16 and a bit to you. :roll:
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brent_e
Sep 30, 2006, 2:11 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Say hi when you come Saturday, I'll have a name tag on. It'll say: "Hi I''m a crazy assed mofo" plus I think the mohawk will be a dead give away. :lol: :lol: :lol: YOU have a mohawk? you punk. what are you...like, 16??? :lol: Best! Brent I think it was the mohawk that got him into trouble coming back from the Bugs. Mohawks make you want to destroy everything. :lol: Fo yo mofo. Ah'll kick yer face in if yer say it agenn :twisted: BTW that's 16 and a bit to you. :roll: i don't if you can say those words with your accent, Grant! :lol:
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rendog
Sep 30, 2006, 4:52 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Say hi when you come Saturday, I'll have a name tag on. It'll say: "Hi I''m a crazy assed mofo" plus I think the mohawk will be a dead give away. :lol: :lol: :lol: YOU have a mohawk? you punk. what are you...like, 16??? :lol: Best! Brent I think it was the mohawk that got him into trouble coming back from the Bugs. Mohawks make you want to destroy everything. :lol: Fo yo mofo. Ah'll kick yer face in if yer say it agenn :twisted: BTW that's 16 and a bit to you. :roll: ok so I'd always wondered how much "a bit" was...now I know that it's the equivelent to a minimum of 20 years. thanks for the tip man
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chossmonkey
Sep 30, 2006, 1:10 PM
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In reply to: Fo yo mofo. Ah'll kick yer face in if yer say it agenn :twisted: See! That mohawk has made Grant evil! :shock:
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the_climber
Oct 4, 2006, 4:35 PM
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Hey Kman, Did you end up getting to the icefields? If so, how is the bow falls area looking? Any other of the early season areas resembling winter?
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darkside
Oct 9, 2006, 5:11 AM
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In reply to: Hey Kman, Did you end up getting to the icefields? If so, how is the bow falls area looking? Any other of the early season areas resembling winter? The ice is there on some things high and far from the road. Most standard climbs are not there yet but there are a lot of wet walls starting to freeze. It's still only October so if the conditions are favourable, it looks good so far. No ice around Bow Falls yet but there was flow visible. Hafner showed no signs of freezing, and there was no snow in there so it looked .....weird. The holes were still in the rock though so we went ahead and played. Sticking UNfrozen mud is a little unsettling :D
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the_climber
Oct 12, 2006, 7:31 PM
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In reply to: Hafner showed no signs of freezing, and there was no snow in there so it looked .....weird. The holes were still in the rock though so we went ahead and played. Sticking UNfrozen mud is a little unsettling :D Not to mention the potential fall into the pond scum. :lol: Anyways, just took a look at the 14 day outlook and the temps should be dropping steadily through till the weekend of the 21st. With any luck that'll be enough for a freeze-up. That means it may be GAME ON! http://www.needlesports.com/...r/tamiiceclimber.jpg
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rockguide
Oct 12, 2006, 7:39 PM
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awesome.
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kman
Oct 12, 2006, 7:48 PM
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In reply to: Hey Kman, Did you end up getting to the icefields? If so, how is the bow falls area looking? Any other of the early season areas resembling winter? I have not been back up to work yet. Gettin pretty chilly here overnight though 8^)
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brent_e
Oct 13, 2006, 3:11 AM
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it SNOWED in hamilton today. that means 3 months til good iceclimbing. :?
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chossmonkey
Oct 13, 2006, 1:07 PM
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In reply to: it SNOWED in hamilton today. that means 3 months til good iceclimbing. :? It didn't do anything but rain here. We're never gonna get any ice. :cry: Bancroft has been getting below freezing though. Hopefully it won't be too long before it stays below freezing. :D
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brent_e
Oct 13, 2006, 3:10 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: it SNOWED in hamilton today. that means 3 months til good iceclimbing. :? It didn't do anything but rain here. We're never gonna get any ice. :cry: Bancroft has been getting below freezing though. Hopefully it won't be too long before it stays below freezing. :D we should head up there one weekend. Eagles Nest. I've seen it. It had ice in april!!! Brent
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the_climber
Oct 13, 2006, 4:19 PM
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In reply to: I've seen it. It had ice in april!!! hehehe, your still on the wrong side of the country :twisted: brent, just do what I did while at Uni, take those student loans and book a flight to the mountains then do you budgeting. All you have to do is be willing to finish paying off your fees to the University in June.... how do you thing I got my Taa-k-oons :lol: Mind you, Student loan refuses to give me money now :shock:
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the_climber
Oct 13, 2006, 5:49 PM
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I should be at Night of Lies, and there is a chance that I'll get to the other as well. As far as I know Darkside IS going to the show. And I would suspect he'll try to be by the beer too :P
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chossmonkey
Oct 13, 2006, 6:45 PM
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In reply to: I've seen it. It had ice in april!!! April is way to far away. :roll: When are you going to be able to go to TB and Nipi?
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kman
Oct 13, 2006, 7:47 PM
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I wasn't planning on going to the slideshow as I am just finding out about it. I dunno...I might go. I'd rather go climbing though. It's supposed to be nice tommorrow. I will be at the night of lies though.
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skinner
Oct 14, 2006, 2:34 AM
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From what I have seen of Raph's photos on his website , I think he will have some awesome shots from his winter ascent of the Greenwood-Locke on the North face of Temple, or his Northeast Ridge of Mt. Alberta, winter ascent.. http://members.shaw.ca/...hant%204%20thumb.jpg That's one crazy looking ridge. Chic Scott's shows are good, as well. I always get to see new areas and thanks to Chic's slide shows, books, guide books, etc., I am going to be skiing into some more remote areas this season and pursue some virgin ice and alpine lines :) So,.. all the above, and the fact that it for a great cause.. I'll be there.
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kman
Oct 14, 2006, 3:29 AM
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DAMN! That is a crazy looking ridge.
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rendog
Oct 14, 2006, 7:05 PM
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wish i wasn't in montana right now, I'd be up there in a heartbeat to go head out on some late season rock.
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brent_e
Oct 15, 2006, 1:22 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: I've seen it. It had ice in april!!! hehehe, your still on the wrong side of the country :twisted: brent, just do what I did while at Uni, take those student loans and book a flight to the mountains then do you budgeting. All you have to do is be willing to finish paying off your fees to the University in June.... how do you thing I got my Taa-k-oons :lol: Mind you, Student loan refuses to give me money now :shock: :lol: :lol: :lol: here's the thing. The studend loan agency happens to be my parents (yes i'm a lucky bastard and no, my parents aren't rich and neither am I, they're poor folk who worked their asses off for their kids). Ergo, no superfluous money layring around. Or VERY little. I could buy a flight from hamilton to, say, toronto. but, good story! :lol: and Chossmonger, might be able to go away spring break. Maybe in january? I'm honestly not sure.
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chossmonkey
Oct 15, 2006, 2:18 AM
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In reply to: and Chossmonger, might be able to go away spring break. Maybe in january? I'm honestly not sure. You better let me know soon, my schedule is filling up. Hopefully. We might be going to Quebec with Dan and Alison, don't know when yet.
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skinner
Oct 15, 2006, 3:03 AM
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In reply to: wish i wasn't in montana right now, I'd be up there in a heartbeat to go head out on some late season rock. wtf are you doing in Montana?
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rendog
Oct 15, 2006, 4:53 AM
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you wouldn't believe me if I told you
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chossmonkey
Oct 15, 2006, 1:47 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: wish i wasn't in montana right now, I'd be up there in a heartbeat to go head out on some late season rock. wtf are you doing in Montana?
In reply to: you wouldn't believe me if I told you He's climbing ice and not telling us about it. FUCKER!!! :evil:
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rendog
Oct 15, 2006, 7:40 PM
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actually I'm down here on a pseudo vacation. After we went to Butte and stayed there for a couple days, realized the climbing potnetial as well as the historical value of the place... we're thinking about buying there, fixing it up and then who knows....it does have to be a historical builiding though. But we've got to find out a bunch of shit first. Then I'm going to have to head into the mountains and find new ice climbs. I know that there's lots of rock around, so I can imagine that there's lots of ice, just have to go find it. Or better yet if I can find the right location I'll build my own area ala Ouray.
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skinner
Oct 16, 2006, 2:54 AM
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dog dude.. how long are you staying there for? I'll be there in a couple of weeks, and I do know of some "un-tapped" ice. I will have to dig up the photos. We did an exploratory fly over in my friends plane. I was armed with a telephoto, but hardly needed it once he started playing fighter pilot, going into dive-bomb mode on each little blue streak that I'd spot. There are some very nice looking curtains of ice of in what appeared to be very remote watersheds. But later when we rolled out the topo maps, we found that the place is littered with totally drivable back roads. If you're still down there in a few weeks, maybe we can hook up and go check some of these out. Butte History.. (possibly skewd version delivered to me by drunken cowboys)Silver mining camp becomes small town. Miners are partying hard one night, when they wake up the town is basically burnt to the ground. Butte is rebuilt out of non-combustible materials, the party's on again! Butte becomes a boom town as electricity is distributed via copper wire, Butte has an abundance of high grade copper ore.. the party is in full swing! Anaconda mines, the giant of the time, strip mines the area with reckless abandon, local rivers are polluted from heavy metals leaching into the water table. Sometime during the 80"s (I think) Anaconda pulls the plug.. the party's over, last one out, shut out the lights. Close?
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raoulthepoolboy
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raoulthepoolboy
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rendog
Oct 16, 2006, 12:07 PM
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In reply to: dog dude.. how long are you staying there for? I'll be there in a couple of weeks, and I do know of some "un-tapped" ice. I will have to dig up the photos. We did an exploratory fly over in my friends plane. I was armed with a telephoto, but hardly needed it once he started playing fighter pilot, going into dive-bomb mode on each little blue streak that I'd spot. There are some very nice looking curtains of ice of in what appeared to be very remote watersheds. But later when we rolled out the topo maps, we found that the place is littered with totally drivable back roads. If you're still down there in a few weeks, maybe we can hook up and go check some of these out. Butte History.. (possibly skewd version delivered to me by drunken cowboys)Silver mining camp becomes small town. Miners are partying hard one night, when they wake up the town is basically burnt to the ground. Butte is rebuilt out of non-combustible materials, the party's on again! Butte becomes a boom town as electricity is distributed via copper wire, Butte has an abundance of high grade copper ore.. the party is in full swing! Anaconda mines, the giant of the time, strip mines the area with reckless abandon, local rivers are polluted from heavy metals leaching into the water table. Sometime during the 80"s (I think) Anaconda pulls the plug.. the party's over, last one out, shut out the lights. Close? pretty close actually. for a very short overview anyway. The best story I heard while there was the one about the geese. 210 geese landed in the old pit that's been flooded on thier flight south. The town woke up the next day to find 210 carcasses floating in the water. They now employ a guy to sit on the rim of the pit and straffe animals with gunfire if they approach the water. as for the whorehouse raoul.....alas tis shut down down. Such a shame. But i digress, this is about climbing not the town history. Skinner I'm actually back in calgary now. drop me a pm and maybe we can hook up one evening and go over some things
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the_climber
Oct 17, 2006, 4:39 PM
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In reply to: Re:ice - 2006/10/16 15:01 Twisted Sister wall had ice on it as of yesterday, and looked like it had been there for a little while. Shouldn't be long now. Just thought I'd toss this out there, Oh, and LTV is back up, but the redirect isn't working so you have to mak sure the /cms is there http://www.live-the-vision.com/cms
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raoulthepoolboy
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lhwang
Oct 18, 2006, 1:18 AM
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Any thoughts about not being allowed to cross the creek in the Ghost???
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the_climber
Oct 18, 2006, 3:57 PM
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In reply to: Any thoughts about not being allowed to cross the creek in the Ghost??? Darkside will know more on this, but this is what I know thus far.... The idea of temporary bridges has at some point been put forward and I think it is being considered (at a speedy govn't pace :roll: ). I would have to double check my hard copy of the new area trail map, but I belive quads are still allowed past the creek crossings. I wouldn't count on being able to drive past the creek crossings this winter, although I doubt it will stop all people for crossing, and I most definitly wound not pass up a ride should I be back there and a truck offered. 8^) I may be doing a trip into the Malamute Valley via large backpack, but I can be masacistic that way sometimes. I much prefer driving back there though. :(
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darkside
Oct 19, 2006, 3:55 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Any thoughts about not being allowed to cross the creek in the Ghost??? Darkside will know more on this, but this is what I know thus far.... The idea of temporary bridges has at some point been put forward and I think it is being considered (at a speedy govn't pace :roll: ). I would have to double check my hard copy of the new area trail map, but I belive quads are still allowed past the creek crossings. I wouldn't count on being able to drive past the creek crossings this winter, although I doubt it will stop all people for crossing, and I most definitly wound not pass up a ride should I be back there and a truck offered. 8^) I may be doing a trip into the Malamute Valley via large backpack, but I can be masacistic that way sometimes. I much prefer driving back there though. :( The latest can be found on the CASA website. Basically there are certain trails that are designated for quads but beyond junction #39 is not one of them. Quads face the same restrictions on creek crossings. We believe there will be some sort of enforcement this winter although I'm not sure how extensive. I think fines go up after November too. Unfortunately we are hampered time wise because SRD is now deferring decisions to the Stewardship Committee it seems, yet the SC is still in it's formative stages and is unlikely to start making proper decisions on vehicle access before the spring. On a more encouraging note, it seems the paperwork for foot access is more simple than vehicular transport. We are looking at the options for crossings up to GBU this winter without having to wade across. We may be able to keep your feet dry at least but there may be some walking. There are many positive things in the outlook for long term access but this winter will be a little awkward.
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the_climber
Oct 23, 2006, 3:40 PM
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GAME ON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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the_climber
Oct 23, 2006, 6:19 PM
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In reply to: I take it you found ice and are about to go climb it. :x Hunted for Ice. :| Found Ice. :shock: :) Climbed ICE. :D :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: Drank BEER after climbing Ice! :twisted: :twisted: Location to be anouced later due to fragile nature of Ice and a hope to NOT HAVE SOMEONE KNOCK IT DOWN. Should be consolidated in less than a week :twisted:
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kachoong
Oct 23, 2006, 6:24 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I take it you found ice and are about to go climb it. :x Hunted for Ice. :| In Freezer Found Ice. :shock: :) In Freezer Climbed ICE. :D :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: To Get To Beer Drank BEER after climbing Ice! :twisted: :twisted: And Retrieving It From Freezer....before it actually froze.... That's about how far I got climbing ice! :wink: :( :x
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dps
Oct 23, 2006, 6:38 PM
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The canadian's are finally catching up! :D Lots to do down here in CO right now, you just have to be willing to walk.
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the_climber
Oct 23, 2006, 6:56 PM
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In reply to: The canadian's are finally catching up! :D Lots to do down here in CO right now, you just have to be willing to walk. Hey now.... there's ice to be climbed around here anytime of the year... you just have to be able to get to it. :? Just remember.... our ice is better (according to me).... and our ice-climbing chicks are hotter (in my dreams).... and..... and..... and..... I'll be climbing ICE every weekend from now till May!!! BWWWAHAHAHAHAH! GAME ON!
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j_ung
Nov 4, 2006, 2:29 AM
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In reply to: Montanan's have a saying that if God were ever to give the earth a big fat enema, it would happen through Butte. Some think He's already started. :lol: Egads, who'd want to live in/near a superfund site. Couldn't stay away cudja?
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reno
Nov 4, 2006, 2:31 AM
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In reply to: Egads, who'd want to live in/near a superfund site. Thankfully, not you.
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anykineclimb
Nov 4, 2006, 2:44 AM
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FINALLY gettin on some ice tomorrow!!!
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rendog
Nov 4, 2006, 4:51 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Montanan's have a saying that if God were ever to give the earth a big fat enema, it would happen through Butte. Some think He's already started. :lol: Egads, who'd want to live in/near a superfund site. Couldn't stay away cudja? :wink: you know don't ya.....
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raoulthepoolboy
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j_ung
Nov 5, 2006, 3:38 PM
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In reply to: nah, rendog, they're just real busy guessing still. :lol: What can I say? I wasn't walking guard duty looking for you and I no longer have access to IP addies. Frankly, Martha, I'm a bit surprised it took you so long to come back under another sceen name. I admit, I had you pegged to stay gone for about two weeks and, instead, you stayed gone for months. For you, that's pretty mature. Anywho, question: after your tirade about how being associated with RC.com in any way damages to your chances for future education and employment, why are you back? I mean, you tried pretty hard to break ties completely. And yet, here you are again. What's up with that?
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raoulthepoolboy
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j_ung
Nov 6, 2006, 4:34 PM
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Uh, yeah. Nice try. :D
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sungam
Nov 6, 2006, 8:37 PM
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I can't take this anymore. I'm pining. I'm desperate. Today I dry tooled my stairs. (it was suprisingly fun, although only 6 moves long, WITH a sit start!) WHY WONT THE ICE COME? WWWWWWWWWHHHHHHHHHYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY? Don't be shy mr ice! you are always welcome in scotland! -Magnus (anyone who owns a jet and has a free room near ice, did I ever menttion I actually love you and want to give you all my money?)
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chossmonkey
Nov 6, 2006, 11:16 PM
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In reply to: I can't take this anymore. I'm pining. I'm desperate. Today I dry tooled my stairs. (it was suprisingly fun, although only 6 moves long, WITH a sit start!) WHY WONT THE ICE COME? WWWWWWWWWHHHHHHHHHYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY? Don't be shy mr ice! you are always welcome in scotland! -Magnus (anyone who owns a jet and has a free room near ice, did I ever menttion I actually love you and want to give you all my money?) :lol: :lol: :lol: That's about how I feel and we still have at least another month. We had three nights in a row that dropped below freezing but now we are getting a bunch of really warm weather again. :? And yes Darkside, I know it is winter there. :evil:
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brent_e
Nov 6, 2006, 11:23 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I can't take this anymore. I'm pining. I'm desperate. Today I dry tooled my stairs. (it was suprisingly fun, although only 6 moves long, WITH a sit start!) WHY WONT THE ICE COME? WWWWWWWWWHHHHHHHHHYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY? Don't be shy mr ice! you are always welcome in scotland! -Magnus (anyone who owns a jet and has a free room near ice, did I ever menttion I actually love you and want to give you all my money?) :lol: :lol: :lol: That's about how I feel and we still have at least another month. We had three nights in a row that dropped below freezing but now we are getting a bunch of really warm weather again. :? And yes Darkside, I know it is winter there. :evil: sat morning there was a bunch of ice on the river we were hunting on. it was nice to see!!! but it's about 8000 degrees today.
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the_climber
Nov 6, 2006, 11:29 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I can't take this anymore. I'm pining. I'm desperate. Today I dry tooled my stairs. (it was suprisingly fun, although only 6 moves long, WITH a sit start!) WHY WONT THE ICE COME? WWWWWWWWWHHHHHHHHHYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY? Don't be shy mr ice! you are always welcome in scotland! -Magnus (anyone who owns a jet and has a free room near ice, did I ever menttion I actually love you and want to give you all my money?) :lol: :lol: :lol: That's about how I feel and we still have at least another month. We had three nights in a row that dropped below freezing but now we are getting a bunch of really warm weather again. :? And yes Darkside, I know it is winter there. :evil: Hey choss, just so it's someone else letting you know again... It's winter here :P :lol: :twisted: BWAHAhahaa! Lots of ice. We do share the ice out here though. Well, most of the time. :twisted:
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chossmonkey
Nov 7, 2006, 1:17 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: I can't take this anymore. I'm pining. I'm desperate. Today I dry tooled my stairs. (it was suprisingly fun, although only 6 moves long, WITH a sit start!) WHY WONT THE ICE COME? WWWWWWWWWHHHHHHHHHYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY? Don't be shy mr ice! you are always welcome in scotland! -Magnus (anyone who owns a jet and has a free room near ice, did I ever menttion I actually love you and want to give you all my money?) :lol: :lol: :lol: That's about how I feel and we still have at least another month. We had three nights in a row that dropped below freezing but now we are getting a bunch of really warm weather again. :? And yes Darkside, I know it is winter there. :evil: Hey choss, just so it's someone else letting you know again... It's winter here :P :lol: :twisted: BWAHAhahaa! Lots of ice. We do share the ice out here though. Well, most of the time. :twisted: I would have my flight booked, but I need to take care of my wife. :?
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anykineclimb
Nov 7, 2006, 5:49 AM
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Glad this thread is back on track. got my 1st ice in on Saturday, more to come this Sunday. I'll take pics for Brent, Magnus and Chossy. ;)
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brent_e
Nov 7, 2006, 5:54 AM
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In reply to: Glad this thread is back on track. got my 1st ice in on Saturday, more to come this Sunday. I'll take pics for Brent, Magnus and Chossy. ;) we'd like to see it!!!!
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anykineclimb
Nov 7, 2006, 5:58 AM
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wil do. even get some with your handles in action!
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builttospill
Nov 7, 2006, 6:19 AM
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got on ice for the first time of the season today. 2 hour hike to a 50 foot waterfall, nice wide curtain allowing a few runs up and down at different levels. Good first day, felt a lot more solid than I expected....
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chossmonkey
Nov 7, 2006, 2:17 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: And yes Darkside, I know it is winter there. :evil: Hey choss, just so it's someone else letting you know again... It's winter here :P :lol: :twisted: BWAHAhahaa! Yeah, yeah, yeah. Grant made a point to tell Jumpingrock to tell me when we went out rockclimbing last Sunday that he (Grant) was climbing ice. :evil: I guess I'll have to add you to the list with Grant. :roll: :lol:
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chossmonkey
Nov 7, 2006, 2:21 PM
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:cry: Brent, it looks like we will likley be the last to get on ice this year. :(
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redlegrangerone
Nov 7, 2006, 2:57 PM
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In reply to: :cry: Brent, it looks like we will likley be the last to get on ice this year. :( 16 days and counting for me MR. Chossmonkey. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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brent_e
Nov 7, 2006, 3:01 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: :cry: Brent, it looks like we will likley be the last to get on ice this year. :( 16 days and counting for me MR. Chossmonkey. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: yeah, we likely will be. maybe mid december we'll get a cold snap....all we really need is 4 days of COLD and we'll have enough to swing, gingerly, some tools. you going on that trip in 16 days, red?
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the_climber
Nov 7, 2006, 4:30 PM
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We just had the first Ice climbing fatality on the 2006/2007 season in Alberta. Tony Devonshire was caught in an avalanche near the Fortress ski hill. http://www.live-the-vision/cms has a thread with some details there is also a thread in the injury and accident forum: http://www.rockclimbing.com/topic/122172 Tony was well known in the local seen and will be missed greatly. I didn't know Tony well... recongnize him out at a climb and have a chat type of thing. Especially during the early season, the ice climbing community really is a small community. A loss like this really does hit everyone. The Avalanche forcast for the area was rated Low accross the board, but with a chinook and some light precip thigs change so fast up there. I was going to get a beacon a few years ago after we were caught, but I haven't yet. Having only one in a party is useless right. Well I climb with some people who do have them, some why not bring them on a climb? Not every climb, but ones that have terrain above them. I've already sett aside some cash and will be getting one as soon as I get my next paycheck. I've already come too close to loosing a partner before, it's not having one worth it? Is having one worth it? You make your own decision. They aren't needed on every climb, but would be nice to have on some climbs. Really they weigh next to nothing, and if like me it has been years since you did the avi course... It might not be a bad idea to take it again. It really is easy to develop bad habits. This tragic accident is a reminder that no matter how LOW the rating is LOW does not mean NO chance of an avalanche. Climb safe out there people, never get complacent and alway listen to your gut when you get that sence that "you not feeling it". Tony was a very experiance and safe climber, so is Kevin. It seems somehow not right to be saying Tony was....
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brent_e
Nov 7, 2006, 5:11 PM
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Sorry for your loss, Brenden. sad to read this.
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sungam
Nov 7, 2006, 7:01 PM
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Oh... man Brenden, I don't know what to say. That is seriously terrible. My most sincere condolances to his friends and family. I think I will be touching up on my winter saftey skills this season. If it comes... last year, the snow didn't form a safe enough base to get anywhere near ice till january, and I didn't get out till febuary... -Magnus
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the_climber
Nov 7, 2006, 8:54 PM
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Thanks guys. Yesterday I was contacted by a guy from City TV here in Calgary who is doing a bit on Climbing and Avalanche safety. He asked me if I was willing to do an interview as he had heard that I was involved in an Avalanche a few years ago. I agreed and we did an interview today at lunch. If it helps just one climber to avoid the wrong conditions then it was worth it, doing the interview. This reporter is a climber, although he doesn't climb ice yet, he's even climbed with one of my partners who was there a few years ago. It should air on Thursday evening and Saturday morning. I just want to say again that Tony was an experianced and safe climber. It can happen to the best of us. Tony was only 25 and was taken far to soon. :cry: Play safe everyone.
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brent_e
Nov 7, 2006, 9:02 PM
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good of you to do the interview. 25 is way too young.
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sungam
Nov 7, 2006, 9:22 PM
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I hope your interview helps get others to realize the need for avi training, I know you helped me. 25, almost hard to believe. -Magnus
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the_climber
Nov 7, 2006, 9:41 PM
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In reply to: 25 is way too young.
In reply to: 25, almost hard to believe. That's what I can't get my head around too. The Reporter had met Tony a number of times too, and it just seems odd to have a conversation about a fellow climber and use past tense. At 25 we shouldn't be using "was".
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brent_e
Nov 7, 2006, 11:33 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: 25 is way too young. In reply to: 25, almost hard to believe. That's what I can't get my head around too. The Reporter had met Tony a number of times too, and it just seems odd to have a conversation about a fellow climber and use past tense. At 25 we shouldn't be using "was". I think we can take the lesson that we are very much mortal even at this age, as much as we don't like to believe it.
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anykineclimb
Nov 8, 2006, 1:22 AM
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Avi class is definately on my list this year. Sad way to remind me how important it is.
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brent_e
Nov 14, 2006, 3:47 AM
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SWEET!!!! how did the handles hold up, Steven???
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anykineclimb
Nov 14, 2006, 4:03 AM
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In reply to: SWEET!!!! how did the handles hold up, Steven??? Because I'm no mixed stud, the second handle took a lot of abuse on the vertical ice and rock. Didn't really get in the way but it was hitting a LOT. Could I just lop off a bit of it or is it better for you to mod them? One thing I did like over the madame handle was that the second handle gave me some space to match as it (the handle) would press against the rock/ ice, leaving a gap. of course this was a problem too. I think for ice and most mixed stuff, I'll stick with the madame handles. I think in a few weeks we'll be heading to Vail and I might play on some steeper stuff.
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skinner
Nov 14, 2006, 6:00 AM
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In reply to: I've already sett aside some cash and will be getting one as soon as I get my next paycheck. I've already come too close to loosing a partner before, it's not having one worth it? Don't forget the shovel! You don't want to find yourself wishing that you had one. I totally agree with you on the beacon(s), although 1 is better then none.. if everybody were to get just one, as their own personal equipment.. we'd be set to go, but being fairly expensive, people (including me) seem to find other things to spend their money on before avi gear. Another option.. they are pretty cheap to rent from the UofC Outdoor Center. AVALANCHE SAFETY GEAR Avalanche transceiver ..................... 7.00 (need two AA batteries–not included) Avalanche probe ............................ 2.00 Snow shovel .................................. 2.00 Snow saw ...................................... 2.00 Snow profile study kit ..................... 4.00 They also have 2 hour transceivers clinics for $20.00 Not a bad idea either. Any idea what brand type you are planning on getting? I've decided to go with the Ortovox F1. The F1 because it is the standard, time-tested model, and Ortovox because they have a store locally right next to Wicked Gravity, and have put on a free clinics/seminars in the past that were really good/informative. -Kevin
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the_climber
Nov 14, 2006, 6:31 PM
Post #247 of 252
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Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142
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Kevin, I decided to go with the Mammut Barryvox (red one, been out about 5 years now or so). I've used the F1 a bunch of times throught the years and love it. I read reviews for most of the ones we can get around here, and I decided that the benifite of having both Digital/analouge was something I liked. I have a number of friends who have the Mammut Barryvox and they all love it. I agree with the shovel thing. What are your oppinions on the light weight plastic shovels? I've always been wary of them... I like the fact that the aluminum blades are hard to break. As for Ice.... Three day weekend.... three days of ice. King Creek for some ice cragin' This House of Sky for some swimmin'.... rumours of man eating liquid mid-route on THOS Phantom Falls.... it's finally in! Climbed it yesterday. Narrow and funky at the top. You can still get some screws though. The walk in sucks compared to the usual drive though! Thanks for posting the rental costs I was going to get around to that too. They're cheep to rent. Good for those who don't spent much time in avi terrain. As for me, I'm getting my own. I know where it's been then and That way I'm always using the same one. Play safe. -Brenden
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brent_e
Nov 14, 2006, 7:22 PM
Post #248 of 252
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 5111
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In reply to: In reply to: SWEET!!!! how did the handles hold up, Steven??? Because I'm no mixed stud, the second handle took a lot of abuse on the vertical ice and rock. Didn't really get in the way but it was hitting a LOT. Could I just lop off a bit of it or is it better for you to mod them? One thing I did like over the madame handle was that the second handle gave me some space to match as it (the handle) would press against the rock/ ice, leaving a gap. of course this was a problem too. I think for ice and most mixed stuff, I'll stick with the madame handles. I think in a few weeks we'll be heading to Vail and I might play on some steeper stuff. The secondary is awfully long for pure ice, yes. And you could just lop some off of the handle with a cut off disk in a grinder or in a band saw, but I would prefer it if you sent them back to me to do any modifications. If you want, I can shorten that handle and add a lip on the end so you have some more purchase. Or you could send me a bit of extra cash (40 bucks and I'll ship them) and i'll send you a set of new handles. Let me know, Steven. Brent
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skinner
Nov 14, 2006, 8:30 PM
Post #249 of 252
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 1747
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Brenden, as long as you have a set, that's all that matters. They are all on 457 kHz anyway, so having them is more important then the brand. As far as the plastic shovels go, I was somewhat skeptical myself until my g/f gave me an Ortovox Professional with a Lexan blade. http://www.ortovox.com/...ex.php?id=27&L=1 The thing is so compact and at 600g you don't even know you're carrying it. I have had it for two years now, and have used it for everything from digging the jeep out, to chipping platforms out in the ice. I'd have no problems recommending it now that I have used and abused one. -Kevin Edit: Quote from Ortovox: "The lexan blade developed by ORTOVOX is unbreakable and torsion-free giving the user full confidence while digging"
(This post was edited by skinner on Nov 14, 2006, 8:35 PM)
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mysterio
Nov 14, 2006, 11:55 PM
Post #250 of 252
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Registered: Nov 6, 2006
Posts: 5
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Does anyone know how the ice is around Calgary? Kananaskis or Jasper and anything in between.
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sungam
Nov 16, 2006, 10:12 PM
Post #252 of 252
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
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I looked out of the window. The rain lashed and bouncied off of it with striking ferocity. The dull murmur of the match of the day was whispering in the background, the tap of my cousin on the computer cut through the dull monotinus patter of rain on the window. It had been raining all week, and I had gotten no good climbing done outdoors for 9 days. But I didn't care. Hope was on the horizon; The distant hill's who hide in the distance glimmered and shone in the sun, Their icey gullies shimmering like angelic wings, the frosty buttresses screaming for attention. And these are just the foothills... THE HIGLANDS ARE IN PEOPLE!!!! My first ice of the season will probobly be before chrismas! (It would be sooner but I have uni interviews and stuff to sort out ) -Magnus
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