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johngenx
Nov 11, 2005, 3:43 AM
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Got an e-mail from Peter Amann today concering ice and it's NOT good. Very little is in and it's not even on it's way. We were hoping to get out on the 19-20th, but I doubt that's going to happen now. Two O'Clock Creek is usually in pretty early, and I guess the water on Highway 11 is free-flowing. No ice. Boo. :cry:
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euroford
Nov 11, 2005, 2:04 PM
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my god we are so long off around here. i've spent over half my days the last couple of weeks standing around the jobsite in a t-shirt.
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boulderinemt
Nov 14, 2005, 11:37 PM
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dude...ice is in....very happy boy today :D
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rendog
Nov 17, 2005, 12:44 AM
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In reply to: Not worthy of a TR Well, I couldn't wait and drove the Icefield Parkway the weekend before last. We arrived at 11:00pm and negotiated a cheap room at "The Crossing" since it was their last week of operations for the season. The next morning we stood at an abandon tourist parking lot near the toe, in a sloppy-wet snow storm with zero visibility. Being the hard-core dood that I am, we went back to the crossing and narfed down one of the best bacon cheeseburgers I have ever had. As the clouds lifted and the storm eased, we headed out on the parkway once more, rounding a bend only to be greeted with a free flowing Tangle Falls.. not even a single icicle in sight. Is it just me or does it just seem to be taking longer every year for things to start forming? Oh well, I was going to stick my tools in some ice no matter what, and pulled back into the tourist parking lot at the toe of the glacier. I had no sooner opened the hatchback when a ranger appeared asking me what I was up to. "If you are planning on going somewhere.. we'd really like to know about it". He said that when he saw all the gear in the back of my Jeep, that he assumed I must be planning a multi-day trip over the pass somewhere. I told him that the gear is basically always in there, I just add food and water as needed. He actually cracked a *little* smile and said that he thought that was a great idea. After reassuring him that we were only going to "look around" he left with his radio going off about a bunch of cars spun off into the ditch. We tramped over the moraine and into a little slot beside the glacier where there was a kewl *little* series of overhanging ice falls. Unfortunately it wasn't formed enough to climb so off over the glacier we went heading to the big blue blocks on the other side. I was probing my way across the glacier and turned to explain what to look for etc., while doing so I took one more step and my right leg disappeared in a crevasse right up to my crotch. It was comical to say the least. The crevasse was only a foot wide and I had probed right over it. Needless to say I was able to stick my tools in some ice, that beautiful blue plastic-like glacier ice where your tools set effortlessly with a sweet little *thunk*. That morning I was able to get some pictures (of dubious quality as it was pretty dark) to show you where some of the routes are at. They can be seen here: http://www.netspy.net/...kway/conditions.html I doubt that conditions have changed much as the temperatures have been higher on average then when I was there. BTW: Welcome back rendog, you went walkabout for a while? Figured you'd be back in time for the ice season though :wink:
TY skinner, yeah I was "out and a boot" for a while there, but yeah I'm back, blown finger and all. A2 pulley....can't even hardly hold onto my axe dammit...
yer story kinda sounds like mine, but at least you found the waterfall you were looking for man.
my partner Mo and I decided to spend a nice relaxing day heading up to moonlight/snowline for some early season warmups. we get to the parking lot and start hiking around 9 am. 3 hrs later we're still going up and up ...and lo and behold right there in front of us is....
NO FUKING ICE dammitdammitdammitdammit.
We figured out we went up the wrong creek, since waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay down below us was a cliff band that looked oddly similar to the one that is in the book hold our intended targets...
back to the car, back to cowtown, first to the gym to at least pull down and get a pump on, the off to the liquor store for some bevies to ease our very stiff and sore muscles.
the next day we went into a very anorexic Haffner Creek, which is where I found out I can't hold onto my axe.
life is funny some times ya know..?!
heading into the Ghost this weekend to go scouting. I'll keep you posted as to what I find there.
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lhwang
Nov 17, 2005, 1:07 AM
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Drove the Icefields Parkway last weekend (November 11,12,13) and there was more ice on the road than anywhere else (except maybe the road cuts).
Sigh... forecast this weekend is for above zero again.
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boulderinemt
Nov 22, 2005, 7:34 PM
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for those of you familiar with cody....moratorium and all those routes are "in", or as in as they ever have been in the past 5 years. lots of stuff going on in triptych...shaping up to be a good season...hopefully the forcast of 60 for today won't come and destroy everything.
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lewisiarediviva
Nov 23, 2005, 3:19 AM
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Percent of Percipitation Forcast:
Today 0%
Tomarrow 0%
Thanksgiving 0%
Mall Shopping Day 0%
Get a Tree Day 10%
Sleep in Day 0%
Back to Work 0%
UHGUHGUHG!
Give me Ice! Give me Snow!
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kailas
Nov 23, 2005, 4:32 PM
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High of 52 degrees F in Telluride yesterday, even warmer in Ouray. Not
much ice or snow for that matter down in SW Colorado. :x
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pico23
Nov 23, 2005, 10:44 PM
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Forming in the Catskills. Tons of water. If it gets cold it will be a good season. It just got cold for the first time all year. Even a bit of snow. 20Fs at night the last few nights and below freezing today.
Give me some local ice and snow.
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boulderinemt
Nov 29, 2005, 10:15 PM
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its cooled down again....gotta be helping the ice. been getting snow and all sorts of nasty weather...its here!!! YAYYYYY!!!!!
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porcelainsunset
Nov 29, 2005, 10:47 PM
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SNOW IN PORTLAND!!!
Ok, so maybe it was like 5% snow, 95% cold ass rain, but dammit, I sill saw snow on my street in November. Man, this is making me get all antsy. Weather is such a fucking tease.
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grk10vq
Nov 29, 2005, 11:13 PM
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the price-cicle is getting fat. its also colder than a withces tit today.
over.
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skinner
Nov 29, 2005, 11:33 PM
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In reply to: the next day we went into a very anorexic Haffner Creek, which is where I found out I can't hold onto my axe.
You can always use leashes yano :wink:
In reply to: heading into the Ghost this weekend to go scouting. I'll keep you posted as to what I find there.
Really curious as to how the Ghost is coming along.. did ya manage to make it in ??
______________________________________________________
http://www.netspy.net/...-Grotto-Canyon02.jpg
12 yr old "young_gun" Grotto Canyon [Nov. 12th 2005]
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justafurnaceman
Nov 30, 2005, 1:34 AM
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45 degrees today! What's going on? All the ice is melting and it's too wet to rock climb. :(
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boulderinemt
Dec 6, 2005, 4:48 PM
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that sucks...it was -5 today in cody when i woke up...its a banner season in the making over here. welcome wagon is in for the first time in probably 6 years. there are climbs that people haven't seen in over a decade that are starting to show themselves...johnny a happy boy :lol:
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samesame
Dec 7, 2005, 4:03 AM
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Wow I'm so glad to see that at least some folks are enjoying what nature has to offer us. I'd love to hear what shape Ghost is in.
My story is quiet sad. I lived in Calgary and once enjoyed all of the wonderfull mountains and the great range of climbing they have to offer us. BUT now due to family I am here in Ontario :( Which is beautiful, in another sense however we have no ice at the moment and the melting and renewal of snow that varies so greatly these days has inhibited climbing greatly.
Please keep posting lovely photos and informing us poor easterners of your great adventures. I greatly apprecitate seeing and hearing of them. And if our wheater here can decide what the heck it's gonna do then I can share some fun of my own soon as well.
Thanks :lol:
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lewisiarediviva
Dec 20, 2005, 5:19 AM
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Can you believe it! It's been below freezing for 3 weeks- and everyone in the family has been sick. I heard Conrad Anker was here and climbed, but I, of all people, missed it. It rained today. Maybe the south side is still good. But you know how a family holiday can screw things up.
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euroford
Dec 20, 2005, 3:40 PM
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last weekend we finally made it out to one of our small local spots. Cox Hollow Falls in southern WI. it was in fairly fat and we had a good 'season opener' day with each of us taking 13 toprope laps each, and then while steve was dropping the toprope i soloed up.
it was sooooo nice to get out on the ice. now we just gotta drive (way) farther north.
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stymingersfink
Dec 20, 2005, 8:44 PM
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Malan's WI5, 300' (380' if full 3 pitches) (FA = G. Lowe, 1971)
Waterfall Canyon, Ogden UT
12/18/05
http://i35.photobucket.com/...lans/th_DSCN0245.jpghttp://i35.photobucket.com/...lans/th_DSCN0249.jpghttp://i35.photobucket.com/...lans/th_DSCN0250.jpghttp://i35.photobucket.com/...lans/th_DSCN0251.jpg
Line ascends the left side WI4+ 200' to belay at cave (rock gear or V-Thread anchor). Upon gaining the top of the grade 5 pillar/curtain, downclimb right 15' to a three-pin rap anchor. (If doing full 3 pitches+walkoff, continue up 30' of WI3+ to TCU anchor left of frozen pool instead of downclimb) Rap 100' to chains below shrub on right.
http://i35.photobucket.com/...lans/th_DSCN0252.jpg
Alternate line (Blue) ascends WI3 185' to chains on right side, then left up Cauliflower ramp to base of WI5 curtain. There is a 30' WI2 3rd pitch to this climb, with a walk off heading NE up the drainage 150M, then east to gain the ridge line (3rd drainage on right). Descend ESE to gully with a short 8' of 5.2 downclimb to arrive back at the base of the climb.
South facing, when it's in get on it 'cause it won't be around for long. Upper pitch gets sun by 11:00am during 2nd week in December, pray for cold overcast days.
Highs for the next week forecast to be in the mid forties wlong the Wasatch Front. Coupled with the 20" of snow deposited over the weekend, we may see Maple forming up soon.
edited to repair broken links
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euroford
Dec 20, 2005, 8:47 PM
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wow man, really nice looking climb!
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rendog
Dec 28, 2005, 1:29 AM
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In reply to: Really curious as to how the Ghost is coming along.. did ya manage to make it in ?? ______________________________________________________
sick absolutely freakin sick man
everything is in, and some new ones as well
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lewisiarediviva
Jan 16, 2006, 11:55 PM
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Well, I finally did it!
I put on my crampons for the first time ever. I put my ice ax in my hand and I started up the chute that was full of snow, hit a tad of ice that broke beneath me, then meandered through some good holds on some rocks. Then I came around the cliff and down climbed a bit then traversed the rock and snow back to where I started.
That was a hoot!
(Also today I was able to ski down a tiny slope in my mountaineering boots and silvretta's with out falling- I have a lot of work still though.)
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stymingersfink
Jan 18, 2006, 9:56 PM
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Cody was still in pretty fat first week of Jan. Moratorium was in nicely, Moonrise was wet fun, Spying n Flyin (don't bother with dropping down to the river as of last week) was throwing a nice tubular curtain up on p4 (nice lead matt!) and oh, did i mention the pillar of pain? Check it:
http://i35.photobucket.com/...Pain/th_IMG_4025.jpg
want to see the rest?
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