"Did I turn off the stove?"

"Did I turn off the stove?"

What do you think about?

you think about falling or do you try to push it out of your mind?

Do you look for placements as you climb or is there some planning involved?

Do you think about the piece you just clipped? Do you think about the piece(s) below that?

The thing I am always thinking is where is my rest point?

The second biggest issue to overcome, IMO, is to realize that sewing up a route will often use up your gear AND pump you out quicker. Sometimes running it out IS the safest option.

Do you think about falling or do you try to push it out of your mind?
I always think about a fall and what the consequences would be. Ignoring this may help you climb harder by eliminating a possible fear, but puts you in a position where you're not paying attention to the consequences of a fall at every moment. I much prefer to know when I can and cannot fall safely and climb accordingly. I guess the associated question is: Can you relax and focus with the knowledge of the consequences of a fall in your mind? I find that I can.

Do you look for placements as you climb or is there some planning involved?
Whenever possible, I try to find my next stance/placement before I move from a stance at a piece I have just placed. In doing that, I think about how far the next stance/placement is, how difficult the climbing is, and what the fall will be like if I blow it getting to that next placement. I frequently climb with only passive gear which limits my placement options and forces me to plan ahead much more, find rests, and make decisions on when to place and when to wait and hope another placement presents itself when I want it.

Are always focused on making forward progress or do you keep the possibility of retreating back to a rest in mind? I always keep the thought of downclimbing in my mind. I downclimb frequently when onsighting a route, and I think it is an essential skill to be a strong, consistent onsight climber. Learn to downclimb... I can't emphasize that enough.

Do you think about the piece you just clipped? Do you think about the piece(s) below that? I always think about the nearest piece below me, as it is the primary factor in evaluating the danger of a fall. Pieces below that play into the direction of pull on my last piece when I place my next piece, so I will consider those in such a situation. Rarely do I find myself thinking about the consequences of a fall in which my last piece failed unless that last piece is suspect. Perhaps I should try to do this more rather than relying on my last piece to catch me when I expect it to.

so i'm the only one that thinks of food and boobies??

This is bullsh!t.

IF good gear is there for the taking, and you choose to pass it by, then you are confusing style and safety.

If you don't know how to find rests, learn.

If you are not up to protecting a route adequately, then do an easier route.

Never pass up a bomber placement, you might not get another.

A lot of people get hurt running it out for whatever reason. Those who get in good gear and hang may not get a clean ascent, but they live to climb another day.

IF you climb enough, you will get your share of runouts. Don't create runouts where they don't exist.

so i'm the only one that thinks of food and boobies??

Ween lyrics

No offense but Lishe you are a dork/nerd. However sadly I understood everything you said :-P.

You?re talking out of your arse. But then again people who say ?you must never do?..? generally do. On a 20m crack do you place a peace of gear every foot? By your logic you should be. The point is that you have to achieve a balance between safety and efficiency. On a long multi pitch route do you really have the time to lace the route with gear?

Dirtineye,

Take it easy--I said "often" in my post. I don't recommend unnecessary runouts just for the fun of it. I was just explaining that you have to learn the tradeoffs between overprotection with poor rests (and pumping out) vs. running a little further--safely--to conserve energy.

My point in addressing that is that these things don't even occur to topropers, or even sport climbers (unless we're talking about skipping bolts maybe).

I acknowledge what you're saying, but I don't think that anybody reading the thread would think I was trying to encourage unnecessary runouts :P

It's all good, you can do it man, you 've been there before, you gonna be fine.
Sometimes there is a little Pink Floyd in my head:

"All you touch
All you see
All your climb would ever be"

What goes on in your head while leading?

I am a noob, but here is my trad lead algorithm:

Check knots, belay;
Issue commands;
Find first placement off belay to avoid factor 2 fall;
Go;

while(!dead() && !done()) {
Climb();
Evaluate();
Breath();
}

boolean done() {
if (at belay ledge) return true;
if (at top) return true;
return false;
}
boolean dead() {
if( uncounscious || !breathing) return true;
return false;

}
Climb() {
Find best holds. Move each limb accordingly.

}
EvaluateSituation() {
if(oh s---?) print "Falling!";
else if(over my head?) print "Oh s---!, off route"; downclimb;
else if(time to place gear? && goodplacements exist?) { place gear; }
else { findnextrestspot(); }
}
Breath{
take breath; hum a tune if scared;
}
findnextrestspot() {
Look for good holds; time to place gear should be at that spot;
}

what am I thinking about when leading trad?

there must be a less boring way to get laid than this

This is bullsh!t.

IF good gear is there for the taking, and you choose to pass it by, then you are confusing style and safety.