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Best Trad Areas in USA?
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tradtimbo


Oct 20, 2005, 6:57 PM
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Best Trad Areas in USA?
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I'd like to see what people think about the various trad climbing crags around this great country. Obviously Yosemite is mecca, but what about the rest? Indian Creek, Eldo,.....rate em up and give this thread the best places you've been to.


hibby11


Oct 20, 2005, 7:01 PM
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1. Yosemite
2. Indian Creek
3. Red Rocks
4. Monument Valley

My opinion


vegastradguy


Oct 20, 2005, 7:23 PM
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Yos
Red Rock
JTree
Gunks
Moab Area
Boulder, CO Area


I know theres more, but thats my top o' the heap list....


shaggyj


Oct 20, 2005, 7:31 PM
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Its a subjective question...

Yos
Gunks
IC
RMNP
Eldo
Lumpy


trevzilla


Oct 20, 2005, 7:54 PM
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Redrocks!

Haven't been to any others though, looks like I might like yosemite a lot once I get there!


lofstromc


Oct 20, 2005, 8:10 PM
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Tahquitz.
That was easy.


Partner pt


Oct 20, 2005, 8:12 PM
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Eldorado
Devils Tower
Needles, CA
Yosemite
RMNP


joshy8200


Oct 20, 2005, 8:14 PM
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Yosemite
Red Rocks
Linville Gorge (counting all crags Shortoff, Amphitheatre, NC Wall, Table Rock, Hawksbill, Gold Coast Cliffs)
Gunks

Not in any particular order.


alpine_monk


Oct 20, 2005, 8:17 PM
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THE EFFIN TETONS! duh.

Dorian


wetyeti


Oct 20, 2005, 8:38 PM
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the needles, ca


stabla


Oct 25, 2005, 8:43 AM
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Don't forget Looking Glass NC or stone mountain(mostly slab but some easy trad classics)
yahtzee


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Oct 25, 2005, 8:51 AM
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In reply to:
4. Monument Valley

???

As in the Navajo Tribal Park? You've climbed there?


Partner euroford


Oct 25, 2005, 9:06 AM
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just tons and tons of good ones.

one of my favorites so far is lumpy ridge.


akornylak


Oct 25, 2005, 9:40 AM
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Has NOONE here been to the Tennessee Wall??


Partner climboard


Oct 25, 2005, 10:05 AM
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In no particular order-

Yosemite
Eldo
NRG
Seneca Rocks
Gunks
Red Rocks

As far as the previous poster- I'm headed to T-Wall in a couple weeks, I'll get back to you on that one...


snakeman


Oct 25, 2005, 10:14 AM
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1. Yosemite
2. Gunks
3. Willow Peak
4. Red Rocks


bootleg


Oct 25, 2005, 10:27 AM
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Gunks actually got the #1 rating in Climbing Ragizine.

Linville Gorge is my favorite.

Check our website for pics. :wink:


dough


Oct 25, 2005, 10:35 AM
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Yosemite
Gunks
Josh
Needles ( South Dakota )
RRG


ambler


Oct 25, 2005, 11:54 AM
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Crag Y on the Kanc. Nothing else comes close.


alpinerockfiend


Oct 25, 2005, 11:56 AM
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In reply to:
THE EFFIN TETONS! duh.

Dorian

The Tetons aren't considered a "trad cragging" venue. Even if they were, they still don't offer near the variety of rock climbing that most of the other aforementioned areas do.
Try again!


alpine_monk


Oct 25, 2005, 12:33 PM
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^^^The title of the thread did not stipulate best "trad craggin" area, just the best trad area. Having climbed at most of the aforementioned areas, I stand by my conviction.


curt


Oct 25, 2005, 1:15 PM
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Gunks
Joshua Tree
Needles of South Dakota
Tetons
Yosemite

Those are my favorite anyway.

Curt


blueeyedclimber


Oct 25, 2005, 5:08 PM
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In reply to:
Crag Y on the Kanc. Nothing else comes close.

OOOhhhh, a New England entry! I am intrigued. Tell me more.


Oh, btw, The GUNKS.


ddriver


Oct 26, 2005, 7:21 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
THE EFFIN TETONS! duh.

Dorian

The Tetons aren't considered a "trad cragging" venue. Even if they were, they still don't offer near the variety of rock climbing that most of the other aforementioned areas do.
Try again!

Oh really? The Tetons are one of the ONLY venues in the lower 48 that offers true traditional alpine climbing. You can do glacier approaches, mixed routes, snow and ice routes, water ice in the summer, multi-day rock routes, big walls, aid routes, high-standard free climbs, easy crag climbs, enchainments. Yeah, not much variety there. Man, there aren't many places that can match the variety of the Tetons. You should look a little closer.


alpinerockfiend


Oct 26, 2005, 8:50 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
THE EFFIN TETONS! duh.

Dorian

The Tetons aren't considered a "trad cragging" venue. Even if they were, they still don't offer near the variety of rock climbing that most of the other aforementioned areas do.
Try again!

Oh really? The Tetons are one of the ONLY venues in the lower 48 that offers true traditional alpine climbing. You can do glacier approaches, mixed routes, snow and ice routes, water ice in the summer, multi-day rock routes, big walls, aid routes, high-standard free climbs, easy crag climbs, enchainments. Yeah, not much variety there. Man, there aren't many places that can match the variety of the Tetons. You should look a little closer.
I'm not going to argue. It would be pointless, as it hinges upon one's definition of trad climbing. Growing up climbing in the Tetons, I just didn't see a dash up the Enclosure Ice Couloir as "trad cragging". Trad crags were where we went to hone our rock climbing skills, and the Tetons were where we put these skills to use.
I said the Tetons lacked variety because I was thinking of variety in strict terms of rock climbing. If you want to find a 5.10 handcrack in the Tetons, you're limited to 2 or 3 pitches of maybe 5 to 8 different routes, many of which require skills specific to the alpine environment that the regular "trad climber" doesn't have. Go to a "trad crag" and you're likely to find tons! Basically I'm trying to say that you don't have the same opportunity to pick and choose your routes as you do at other "trad crags" because you're limited by many different factors of the alpine environment.


iceisnice


Oct 26, 2005, 2:40 PM
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can't believe no one has mentioned the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. its the motherload of trad climbin. hands down the best this country has to offer (in my humble opinion).


flamer


Oct 26, 2005, 2:54 PM
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I can't argue with Yosemite.

I can't argue with Red Rock.

I can't argue with RMNP, except to tell someone that Lumpy Ridge is part of RMNP.

I can argue with Eldo. I climb there alot and I really like climbing there, but Eldo is a pile when compared to the other 3 mentioned here.

The Black...I think BobD said it best when he called it the blue collar yosemite.

josh


mistajman


Oct 26, 2005, 3:36 PM
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Vedauwoo, is pretty sweet!


phile


Oct 26, 2005, 3:39 PM
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for a similar discussion, see this thread from a year ago. It even has the same debate about the Tetons--eerie.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=920759#920759


Partner pt


Oct 26, 2005, 3:58 PM
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I'm surprised the Needles of California isn't more widely supported. I went there over the summer and that place is awesome. Devils Tower should also be at the top of the list.

Eldo a pile? Yeah I thought so too after topping out on the Naked Edge a few weeks back! :lol:


ddriver


Oct 26, 2005, 4:30 PM
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In reply to:

I'm not going to argue. It would be pointless, as it hinges upon one's definition of trad climbing. Growing up climbing in the Tetons, I just didn't see a dash up the Enclosure Ice Couloir as "trad cragging". Trad crags were where we went to hone our rock climbing skills, and the Tetons were where we put these skills to use.

Like alpine-monk said, the thread title says areas, not crags. But, whenever someone brings this topic up I can't help but think along those lines myself. Most people mention crags, not alpine areas, because the conversation gets silly if you don't draw the line. How do you compare the City of Rocks to the Winds? They're too different.


alpinerockfiend


Oct 26, 2005, 7:08 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:

I'm not going to argue. It would be pointless, as it hinges upon one's definition of trad climbing. Growing up climbing in the Tetons, I just didn't see a dash up the Enclosure Ice Couloir as "trad cragging". Trad crags were where we went to hone our rock climbing skills, and the Tetons were where we put these skills to use.

Like alpine-monk said, the thread title says areas, not crags. But, whenever someone brings this topic up I can't help but think along those lines myself. Most people mention crags, not alpine areas, because the conversation gets silly if you don't draw the line. How do you compare the City of Rocks to the Winds? They're too different.

Yeah, it's true. Which is why when this debate comes up, when the Tetons are defined as an "alpine trad area", I tend to lean more on the side of alpine. That said, I've done many a fine "trad" route that could easily be called an alpine climb, a trad climb, or an alpine trad climb! toMAYto, toMOto... the joy of semantics.
Anyway, the Tetons are absolutely wonderful, even if they don't fit into this thread!
(and the earlier thread where this same debate came up is eerie indeed!).


flamer


Oct 26, 2005, 7:14 PM
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In reply to:
Eldo a pile? Yeah I thought so too after topping out on the Naked Edge a few weeks back! :lol:


That may be so, but it's one of the few routes that are generally clean. Hell it's the only route in the Canyon that even comes close to being "long".

Eldo is just not even close to world class when compared with Yosemite, Red Rock, or RMNP.


josh


petsfed


Oct 26, 2005, 8:18 PM
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My favorites so far:

Indian Creek (at least the shorter routes, there's only so many of the same jam I'm willing to do)
Castle Valley
Eldo
Needles of South Dakota
Devil's Tower
Joshua Tree

At least for the places I've been to.

Vedauwoo is good, but its like JTree without all of the good bouldering and face climbs.


Partner cracklover


Oct 26, 2005, 9:05 PM
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I've had limited experiences. But of the places mentioned that I've been to, I'd say:

1 - Yosemite (fell in love with crack there)
2 - Red Rocks. What can I say - just outstanding long climbs.
3(tie) - The Gunks. What incredible face climbs - nowhere else comes close.
3(tie) - Indian Creek. If you combined IC and the Gunks, I'd put it that conjoined crag at the top of the list.
4 - Precipice cliffs (Acadia NP). Top notch clean granite multi pitch climbing.
5 - J-tree. Cool place, a lot of super climbs, but, I dunno, just too much like a bunch of overgrown boulders.

I haven't yet climbed in Eldo, RMNP, Devil's Tower, Seneca, Tetons, or Needles (or crag Y, for that matter!)

They're all on my must-go list, though! So much rock, so yummy!

GO


climbingbums


Oct 26, 2005, 9:09 PM
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i dunno... thats a tough one. wait a sec, no its not. its the creek. nothing compares to indian creeks perfect jams, amazing atmosphere, amazing weather, seclusion, and the fact that if you open the guidebook and go somewhere other than supercrack or battle of the bulge you wont see a soul. and with a little trudge, countless first ascents await. im about to cream my panties just thinking about it.

bobby


golsen


Oct 26, 2005, 9:16 PM
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come on guys! Nobody is up for the Black Canyon? A true test of trad climbing ability can be found for nearly anyone.....The good thing is there are many great places! You almost have to break it down into Best one pitch, Best Alpine Trad, and Best Multipitch trad....


mountainstuss


Oct 29, 2005, 9:41 PM
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To throw some other areas out there (yeah yeah josh, the valley, tetons...)

Granite Mountain, AZ
The High Sierra
Lovers Leap, CA


brutusofwyde


Oct 30, 2005, 5:28 PM
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Bckcountry climbing:
High Sierra
Wind Rivers
Idaho Sawtooths
Tetons
RMNP
North Cascades

Cragging and/or long routes, camp at the car:
JT
City of Rocks
Red Rocks
Gunks
Wild Granites
Vedawoo
Yosemite
Black Canyon
Moab and vicinity
Indian Creek
Sierra East Side and Southern Sierra
Lovers' Leap
Devil's Tower


blouderk2


Oct 30, 2005, 8:35 PM
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The Valley and Jtree are great.


mattm


Nov 7, 2005, 1:28 PM
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C'mmon people - two of the best areas are missing!

Cathedral/Whitehorse

and

Squamish!

I favor them over the crowded Valley (Blasphemy! I know!)


scrapedape


Nov 7, 2005, 1:49 PM
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In reply to:
I'd like to see what people think about the various trad climbing crags around this great country.

Ok, the title didn't say "crags," but the OP's opening sentence did.

And last time I checked, Squamish wasn't in this country, "51st State" jokes aside.


cchas


Nov 9, 2005, 6:21 AM
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To bad Squamish isn't 50 miles south, since it probably would be the best in the US (weather aside)

1) Indian Creek
2) Tuolumne
3) Yosemite
4) Red Rocks
5) City of Rocks (lot like JT but far better quality rock, more like Tuoloumne
6) Paradise Forks (too bad it isn't 5 times the size- since you can outclimb it too fast but the quality is amazing)
7) Cathedral (North Conway- IMHO far bettter then the Gunks)


thinman13


Nov 9, 2005, 7:28 AM
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Without having been to Yosemite or other stellar northern California venues:

1. The Black Canyon - simply the best I've been to!
2. Desert Towers - perhaps the most adventurous of all??
3. Indian Creek - crack kingdom
4. Cannon cliff in NH - some of the best granite anywhere (where it's good)
5. Cathedral / Whitehorse - AWESOME
6. Gunks - overhanging bomber quartzite face!
7. Red Rocks - has it all
8. JTree - totally vast!
9. The Daks - fantastic
10. Vedawoo - sick, king of like a high-country JTree

That's my list...the two best cragging (multipitch not a criteria) areas in my opinion are the Gunks and the Creek. I just went to the Creek last weekend for the first time and it BLEW ME AWAY...walk around the corner to the next long, perfect, geometrically perfect splitter...the humblest of climbs there is a three-star centerpiece at any other area.


dps


Nov 13, 2005, 7:39 AM
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That may be so, but it's one of the few routes that are generally clean. Hell it's the only route in the Canyon that even comes close to being "long".

Eldo is just not even close to world class when compared with Yosemite, Red Rock, or RMNP.

josh

Generally clean? How about the Yellow Spur, most of the Redgarden wall, the West Ridge, and the Bastille?

And if you want longer routes, why not link climbs? We did Long John Wall, hiked off the backside, simuled Swanson's Arete, downclimbed the east slabs, and then did Wind Ridge for a nice long day out.

Eldo is one of the best trad areas IMHO. It forces you to improve your footwork and nut craft, rewarding you with some amazing climbs.

My list would be:
Yosemite
Eldo
Tahquitz
Red Rocks
Vedauwoo


flamer


Nov 13, 2005, 5:58 PM
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Generally clean? How about the Yellow Spur, most of the Redgarden wall, the West Ridge, and the Bastille?

And if you want longer routes, why not link climbs? We did Long John Wall, hiked off the backside, simuled Swanson's Arete, downclimbed the east slabs, and then did Wind Ridge for a nice long day out.

Eldo is one of the best trad areas IMHO. It forces you to improve your footwork and nut craft, rewarding you with some amazing climbs.

My list would be:
Yosemite
Eldo
Tahquitz
Red Rocks
Vedauwoo

Dude!! Red garden wall?? Ever heard of a feature called red ledge? Or how about several other huge LOOSE ledges on red garden?

Eldo is loose.

Yeah yeah link-ups in eldo been there, done that....

I'm not saying Eldo isn't a great place to climb, because I do like to climb there. But compared to alot of the other areas listed Eldo is a pile.

josh


dps


Nov 14, 2005, 6:10 AM
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Dude!! Red garden wall?? Ever heard of a feature called red ledge? Or how about several other huge LOOSE ledges on red garden?

Eldo is loose.

Yeah yeah link-ups in eldo been there, done that....

I'm not saying Eldo isn't a great place to climb, because I do like to climb there. But compared to alot of the other areas listed Eldo is a pile.

josh

The ledges are loose sure, but the the climbs themsleves are superb.

Eh, to each their own.


lemon_boy


Nov 14, 2005, 8:47 AM
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i have to agree, eldo is one of the most over rated areas in NA. 30 feet of climbing, 30 feet of scrambling, repeat.... crowded. tons of booty though!

best trad?

the creek (or anywhere in the desert for that matter)
squamish (almost yosemite without the hassle)
vedauwoo (kicks J Trees' ass in my opinion)
gunks
the black
t-wall


soulsurfer


Nov 14, 2005, 8:50 AM
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Mission gorge, California
Taylor Falls, MN
Christmas Tree pass, NV

Yos, J-tree, Eldo are over protected, fluff graded glory spots.


michaelmay513


Nov 14, 2005, 9:13 AM
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How about Idaho,

1. City of Rocks National Reserve
2. Castle Rocks State Park


"There is much more than just potatos here"


fanederhand


Nov 14, 2005, 9:29 AM
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Best Trad area is a tough one to accurately nail down because there so many variables ... there are single pitch areas, multi-pitch areas and then there are areas that are alpine in nature.

1. for single pitch TRAD climbing in the winter it is hard to beat TWALL near to Chattanooga, TN.

2. for Alpine, multi-pitch and just great scenery Yosemite is the place. But several places in the Rockies compete quite well with Yosemite for their Alpine flair. Rocky Mountain National Park for one and Grand Tetons for another.

3. For a place that has night life to go along with a great TRAD, Red Rock, NV is great.

4. For a great TRAD area that is close to where you can actually live and have a job and are very accessible. ELDO and Boulder Canyons near Boulder, Colorado and the Big and Little Cottonwood Canyons in Salt Lake City, UT are great places (5 to 10 minutes from town).

5. For real adventure and real hard climbing that is akin to Yosemite but without the crowds (dare I spill the beens?) there is a great big wall location in the western part of Colorado called the Black Canyon.

6. Honorable mention:

City of Rocks, ID; Zions and Moab, UT; Red River Gorge, KY; New River and Seneca, WV; Whitesides and Linnville Gorge, NC, Windriver Mountains both Titcomb Basin and Circ of the Towers, and lastly the Gunks.


stevo


Nov 14, 2005, 9:32 AM
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1. Indian Creek
Amazing cragging, you leave the main supercrack area and its all yours. Great scenery, camping, weather, gotta get back
2. Gunks
A little crazy with people, but such fun climbing, even though it starts to repeat itself.
3. North Conway area
Pretty sweet climbs, but camping is not the most convenient


I have to make it to the Black Canyon.

We should make one thread for alpine and one for Canada.


renohandjams


Nov 14, 2005, 10:04 AM
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Yosemite
Donner
Lone Peak, Ut


mistymountainhop


Nov 17, 2005, 7:01 AM
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THE EFFIN TETONS! duh.

Dorian


Tetons are choss.


sonso45


Nov 17, 2005, 8:41 PM
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Best trad (near me) is
yosemite
Cochise
Red Rocks
Indian Creek
Paradise Forks
J Tree
Wind Rivers


Partner pt


Nov 17, 2005, 8:50 PM
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In reply to:
1. Indian Creek
Amazing cragging, you leave the main supercrack area and its all yours. Great scenery, camping, weather, gotta get back
.

Not anymore. Almost every crag is swarming with people these days. And the camping areas are turning into ghettos.


phile


Nov 17, 2005, 9:55 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
1. Indian Creek
Amazing cragging, you leave the main supercrack area and its all yours. Great scenery, camping, weather, gotta get back
.

Not anymore. Almost every crag is swarming with people these days. And the camping areas are turning into ghettos.

Gotta agree with pt. I was there for the first time over Halloween weekend, and while it wasn't yosemite-style crowded, there were definitely some lines! Still an amazing place.


punk_rocker333


Nov 17, 2005, 10:02 PM
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How about Idaho,

1. City of Rocks National Reserve
2. Castle Rocks State Park


"There is much more than just potatos here"

Glad to see that Idaho (COR and Castle specifically) got a couple mentions. I guess its biggest weakness is that it is isolated and difficult to get to compared to many other climbing areas. Not too many crowds though.


thetroutscout


Nov 18, 2005, 12:00 AM
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What about Big and Little Cottonwoods?! Here in SLC, I'm 15 minutes away from granite, limestone, quartz, and sandstone.

^^ike


flamer


Nov 18, 2005, 1:02 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
1. Indian Creek
Amazing cragging, you leave the main supercrack area and its all yours. Great scenery, camping, weather, gotta get back
.

Not anymore. Almost every crag is swarming with people these days. And the camping areas are turning into ghettos.

Gotta agree with pt. I was there for the first time over Halloween weekend, and while it wasn't yosemite-style crowded, there were definitely some lines! Still an amazing place.

Yup....try taking a shit in the main camping areas....oops! Nope, can't dig there...or there...or there....or.....

josh


woodse


Nov 18, 2005, 2:54 AM
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Heres the correct answer:

The Creek
Yosemite
Little Yos
Chochise
Joshua Tree
The Black
Ophir(dont' look we don't want ya)
LCC
and any other area with tradition, ethics, history and routes put up by hardmen who have no idea what spring loaded camming device's are!!

woodsE


stevo


Nov 18, 2005, 1:35 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
1. Indian Creek
Amazing cragging, you leave the main supercrack area and its all yours. Great scenery, camping, weather, gotta get back
.

Not anymore. Almost every crag is swarming with people these days. And the camping areas are turning into ghettos.

Gotta agree with pt. I was there for the first time over Halloween weekend, and while it wasn't yosemite-style crowded, there were definitely some lines! Still an amazing place.

Yup....try taking a s--- in the main camping areas....oops! Nope, can't dig there...or there...or there....or.....

josh


I knew I had a knack for finding the quietsest place at the busiest crags, but I can apparently find the best shit holes and best camp spots as well. I usually had the crags to myself, but then I would keep on driving if I saw poeple there. Camping, I did have to drive by some freaks, but my spot was okay with great views. But overall the place sucks, don't go there.
Interestingly I usually judge how good my season was by how many different crags I shat at.


aussieclimbingfreak


Nov 18, 2005, 1:51 PM
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Taipan Wall
Arapiles

oh you mean in the USA?? We'll when i get over those two, i'll let u know :wink:


pipsqueekspire


Nov 18, 2005, 1:52 PM
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Why do the Gunks keep coming up? It may be good climbing but anyplace you have to pay to climb seems like a GYM to me thus the gunks are no longer TRADITIONAL climbing! Therefore they are disqualified!
It just pissed me off that I had to pay to jump around a few rocks!

One of my faves that has not been mentioned is Seneca! Great vibe FUN climbs and a sense of adventure only 200 yards from a cold beer.

My other faves includes any desert tower, tons of places in the sierra that no one has mentioned and of course my home crags of Jtree and Tahquitz

-pip


elron


Nov 18, 2005, 2:13 PM
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In reply to:
Why do the Gunks keep coming up? It may be good climbing but anyplace you have to pay to climb seems like a GYM to me thus the gunks are no longer TRADITIONAL climbing! Therefore they are disqualified!
It just pissed me off that I had to pay to jump around a few rocks!

Ugh, does this deserve a response? Ok, I'll bite. The Gunks are one of the best places in this country to climb trad. In addition, they are one of the best places in this country to learn trad. No where else that I have climbed has such incredible multipitch trad routes inthe 5.4-5.8 range.

Why do we pay? I think that the $15/day (or whatever it is) is a small price for such a great resource.

If I'm not mistaken, the previously mentioned trad areas located in National Parks all have an entry fee as well

Kevin

edit: maybe that previous post was tongue in cheek, and i just got trolled :)


pornstarr


Nov 18, 2005, 2:34 PM
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uhhhmmmmm....."tradding" sucks here in NC.

don't bother, this place blows.

all the other places mentioned thus far are MUCH better, IMHO.

carry on.


cowpoke


Nov 18, 2005, 3:11 PM
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Crag Y on the Kanc. Nothing else comes close.

"Amongst the most difficult to approach and obscure cliffs in the Kancamagus Highway area..." and that's saying something! Come on though, don't you think Woodchuck comes close? I once spent 3 hours hiking around the woods looking for Woodchuck with some hoser, only to discover a 200ft moss pile with some granite attached every 20 feet or so -now that's traditional climbing! Yosemite, Red Rock, Eldo etc be damned.

And another thing: Vedauwoo is my home crag and all, but best in USA???? come on now.


flamer


Nov 18, 2005, 3:47 PM
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No where else that I have climbed has such incredible multipitch trad routes inthe 5.4-5.8 range.

Guess you haven't been many places??? It there anything in The gunks higher than 200ft?

josh


cowpoke


Nov 18, 2005, 4:07 PM
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In reply to:
No where else that I have climbed has such incredible multipitch trad routes inthe 5.4-5.8 range.

Guess you haven't been many places??? It there anything in The gunks higher than 200ft?

josh

Josh, your post makes me wonder what factors go into the making of a "best trad area?" I would agree that height is one factor as well as route quality, route quantity, and overall beauty of the area. It seems like many trad areas that folks have listed here hit on three of those four criteria, but few bat 1.000. What other criteria should be used? history? weather? wide range of route difficulty?


raymondjeffrey


Nov 18, 2005, 5:13 PM
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Red ROCK (no 's')

Needles of California was cool, long but easy hike.

Got my ass handed to me in Yosemite.


blitzkrieg_climber13


Nov 18, 2005, 6:26 PM
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yosemite
J tree
indian creek


Top 3 in my book


Partner cracklover


Nov 18, 2005, 8:23 PM
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Why do we pay? I think that the $15/day (or whatever it is) is a small price for such a great resource.

I think it's slightly ironic that you quoted the going rate for a day pass at a typical gym. The day fee at the Gunks is up to ~ $10. But considering that it's privately owned, and that they're totally cool with climbing, I agree with your basic point that it's worth it (and membership is pretty cheap).

By the way, yes, much of the Gunks is > 200 feet. If you'd said > 300 feet, that would have narrowed it down a bit.

GO


Partner gunksgoer


Nov 18, 2005, 9:17 PM
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Why do the Gunks keep coming up? It may be good climbing but anyplace you have to pay to climb seems like a GYM to me thus the gunks are no longer TRADITIONAL climbing! Therefore they are disqualified!
It just pissed me off that I had to pay to jump around a few rocks!

Hmm, obvious troll but ill have to bite. First of all, assuming you have a job, you are already paying to climb in national parks. Its called taxes buddy. Plus, your not only paying for Yosemite and Jtree with those NP taxes, but your also paying for Flat Field with Grass National Park in some random rockless place that you dont care about.

$80 a year sounds pretty reasonable to climb in a nice place compared to that. If its not worth your money, by all means stay out! Overcrowding is too common! Go scramble over your free chosspile!


ambler


Nov 19, 2005, 8:28 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Crag Y on the Kanc. Nothing else comes close.
"Amongst the most difficult to approach and obscure cliffs in the Kancamagus Highway area..." and that's saying something! Come on though, don't you think Woodchuck comes close? I once spent 3 hours hiking around the woods looking for Woodchuck with some hoser, only to discover a 200ft moss pile with some granite attached every 20 feet or so -now that's traditional climbing! Yosemite, Red Rock, Eldo etc be damned.
Woodchuck Ledge? Well, no trad climber's career is complete without a few days spent up there. Some good scope, perhaps, for second ascents! Or routes that might as well be.

But Crag Y is the real deal, as only those who've found it can tell.


cwegener


Dec 14, 2005, 10:36 AM
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I will agree with all the others and would add:

Red River Gorge
New River Gorge

Yes they have a lot of sport climbs but the trad lines there are as stiff as anything elsewhere. A lot of those climbs don't get lead much and when you do you know you've done something.

Regards,
Chris


koko


Dec 14, 2005, 10:50 AM
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Vedauwoo-bomber gear, awesome lines, many possibilities
Devils Tower-haven't climbed it yet but man am I itching to go there (although it's frozen solid now)


iamcolinslack


Dec 19, 2005, 1:16 PM
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North Carolina as a whole. Everything you could ever want. Big ass stuff in the southwest near Cashiers. Aid, Trad, Slab at Looking Glass, Linville is always an adventure. Hard Sport in the Piedmont. I love my home.


kydd76


Dec 26, 2005, 5:39 AM
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This is like asking who? In Hollywood actresses is the hottest. There all hot, for all kind of very different reasons. Tall blonde, dark and mysterious, looks like the girl next door, and the list goes on and on.
Long granite, clean Yosemite and broken RMNP.
Older History Hemp ropes and body belay Seneca and Devils Tower.
New History Spandex tights and heady routes Gunk’s and Eldo.
Then it all becomes what is your favorite taste. Josh and the needles in Cali and or South Dakota. The Red River gorge in KY. The black canyon in CO. Then there is the new river gorge, some of the best trad around but every one forgets to climb it because of the great sport. Tennessee wall and Red rocks NV. I can go on and on. But do have to say they all climb different and have great local and national lore. So fill up the tank on you truck are car. Head out with a good partner I.E. one you can travel all summer with and go. You will find things you like about all of these places, and see America at the same time. If I missed some other areas I am sorry. Aka Rock City, Boulder canyon, Battle rock, South Platte, Indian creek, Monument Colorado, and the list goes on.


mowz


Dec 26, 2005, 9:25 AM
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The Gunks.


warthog


Dec 29, 2005, 4:41 PM
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has anybody mentioned Devil's Lake? generations have learned here before heading out for the mountains.


warthog


Dec 29, 2005, 4:42 PM
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has anybody mentioned Devil's Lake? generations have learned here before heading out for the mountains.


climbinhigh18


Dec 29, 2005, 4:57 PM
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The Shawangunks


Partner euroford


Dec 30, 2005, 7:14 AM
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Re: Best Trad Areas in USA? [In reply to]
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just for the hell of it, i ran a quick tabulation of the results. these may not be pefectly adiquate, but generally speaking if an area was mentioned (in a posative light) than it got a tick mark. I may not be knowedgeable about all of the areas, just post up if i need to correct anything.

Yos: 22
Gunks: 16
Red Rocks: 14
Indian creek: 13
J Tree: 11
Eldo/Boulder Area: 8
Needles: 7

RMNP: 6

Devils Tower: 5
Vedauwuo: 5
Black Canyon: 5

Tetons: 4

City of Rocks: 3
Tennesse Wall: 3
North Conway: 3
New River Gorge: 3

Moab Area: 2
Linville Gorge: 2
Lumpy Ridge: 2
Tahquitz: 2
Cochise: 2
Cottenwood Canyons: 2
Seneca: 2
Lovers Leap: 2
High Sierra: 2
Wind Rivers: 2
Cathedral/Whitehorse: 2
Squamish: 2

Monument Valley: 1
Sawtooths: 1
North Cascades: 1
Wild Granite: 1
Granite Mountain: 1
Castle Valley: 1
Acadia NP: 1
Willow Peak: 1
Red River Gorge: 1
Tolumne: 1
Devils Lake: 1
Donner: 1
Taylor Falls: 1
Mission Gorge: 1
Daks: 1
Cannon Cliff: 1
Desert Towers: 1
Christmass Tree Pass: 1
Castle Rocks: 1
Lone Peak: 1
Looking Glass: 1


sactownclimber


Dec 30, 2005, 7:39 AM
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Red Rocks is my favorite so far, and Lover's Leap is in my backyard, so I gotta give it the obligatory nod . . .


chossmonkey


Dec 30, 2005, 7:54 AM
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In reply to:
Why do the Gunks keep coming up? It may be good climbing but anyplace you have to pay to climb seems like a GYM to me thus the gunks are no longer TRADITIONAL climbing! Therefore they are disqualified!

Looks like Yosemite and many of the other "trad" areas need to be scratched off the list. :cry:


Thank you pipsqueekspire for keeping us all honest.


climbinhigh18


Dec 30, 2005, 12:26 PM
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O.K. ye your right... there are no hanging belays off natty gear anymore, LOL.


ikellen


Jan 6, 2006, 9:04 PM
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Eldo
Jtree
Yosemite
Gunks

Beyond that, I don't see any standouts. Eldo is really head and shoulders above due to the sheer number of routes and pitches, many of which are classic. Jtree is close, but almost all routes are single pitch, some even short for single pitch routes. If you could stack multiple jtree routes on top of each other, then it would be above eldo.


locker


Jan 6, 2006, 11:01 PM
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to just say Yosimite is to do the entire Sierra MOuntain range a disservice IMO... so my favorites are


Sierra Mountains
Taquitz
Jtree
Gunks


jaybro


Jan 7, 2006, 9:49 PM
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"Devils Tower-haven't climbed it yet but man am I itching to go there (although it's frozen solid now) "

-temps in the fifties last week - ideal conditions!


pico23


Jan 10, 2006, 8:33 PM
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Daks...definitely best in the northeast (Gunks a close second)

Even though I don't love the Gunks i don't see anyway it can't be on everyones list who has been there. A lot of places with longer routes, perhaps more routes, but few with consistently solid 3 pitch routes. And if you leave the Trapps the variety is excellent. You can even find choss and loose rock if you try. Suits everyones needs.

Seneca is in with the above but more like the Gunks than the Daks. In reference to an above post, aren't the Gunks older historically than seneca? I thought seneca had it's historical hey day during WWII and later. A lot of the stuff in the Gunks was put up before that.


pico23


Jan 10, 2006, 9:01 PM
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Re: Best Trad Areas in USA? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Why do the Gunks keep coming up? It may be good climbing but anyplace you have to pay to climb seems like a GYM to me thus the gunks are no longer TRADITIONAL climbing! Therefore they are disqualified!
It just pissed me off that I had to pay to jump around a few rocks!

One of my faves that has not been mentioned is Seneca! Great vibe FUN climbs and a sense of adventure only 200 yards from a cold beer.

My other faves includes any desert tower, tons of places in the sierra that no one has mentioned and of course my home crags of Jtree and Tahquitz

-pip

Ummm, just wondering but doesn't JTree charge an entrance fee?

You pay like $100 for the year at the gunks...if you climb a lot (2 days a week) it can be as little as $1 a day...if you climb every day it's less then 30 cents. And if you climb once in a blue moon $10 ain't gonna kill you. BTW, it's not hard to skirt the fee without trying too hard but even my cheap ass would feel like a scumbag cheating private owners out of a few bucks that they put back into the preserve (rescue gear, climbing rangers, ect.). Now you'll rarely see me pay a government fee without bitching moaning and trying every last way to get out of it.

Quit crying.


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Trad Climbing

 


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