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iceisnice


Oct 26, 2005, 2:40 PM
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can't believe no one has mentioned the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. its the motherload of trad climbin. hands down the best this country has to offer (in my humble opinion).


flamer


Oct 26, 2005, 2:54 PM
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I can't argue with Yosemite.

I can't argue with Red Rock.

I can't argue with RMNP, except to tell someone that Lumpy Ridge is part of RMNP.

I can argue with Eldo. I climb there alot and I really like climbing there, but Eldo is a pile when compared to the other 3 mentioned here.

The Black...I think BobD said it best when he called it the blue collar yosemite.

josh


mistajman


Oct 26, 2005, 3:36 PM
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Vedauwoo, is pretty sweet!


phile


Oct 26, 2005, 3:39 PM
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for a similar discussion, see this thread from a year ago. It even has the same debate about the Tetons--eerie.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=920759#920759


Partner pt


Oct 26, 2005, 3:58 PM
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I'm surprised the Needles of California isn't more widely supported. I went there over the summer and that place is awesome. Devils Tower should also be at the top of the list.

Eldo a pile? Yeah I thought so too after topping out on the Naked Edge a few weeks back! :lol:


ddriver


Oct 26, 2005, 4:30 PM
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In reply to:

I'm not going to argue. It would be pointless, as it hinges upon one's definition of trad climbing. Growing up climbing in the Tetons, I just didn't see a dash up the Enclosure Ice Couloir as "trad cragging". Trad crags were where we went to hone our rock climbing skills, and the Tetons were where we put these skills to use.

Like alpine-monk said, the thread title says areas, not crags. But, whenever someone brings this topic up I can't help but think along those lines myself. Most people mention crags, not alpine areas, because the conversation gets silly if you don't draw the line. How do you compare the City of Rocks to the Winds? They're too different.


alpinerockfiend


Oct 26, 2005, 7:08 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:

I'm not going to argue. It would be pointless, as it hinges upon one's definition of trad climbing. Growing up climbing in the Tetons, I just didn't see a dash up the Enclosure Ice Couloir as "trad cragging". Trad crags were where we went to hone our rock climbing skills, and the Tetons were where we put these skills to use.

Like alpine-monk said, the thread title says areas, not crags. But, whenever someone brings this topic up I can't help but think along those lines myself. Most people mention crags, not alpine areas, because the conversation gets silly if you don't draw the line. How do you compare the City of Rocks to the Winds? They're too different.

Yeah, it's true. Which is why when this debate comes up, when the Tetons are defined as an "alpine trad area", I tend to lean more on the side of alpine. That said, I've done many a fine "trad" route that could easily be called an alpine climb, a trad climb, or an alpine trad climb! toMAYto, toMOto... the joy of semantics.
Anyway, the Tetons are absolutely wonderful, even if they don't fit into this thread!
(and the earlier thread where this same debate came up is eerie indeed!).


flamer


Oct 26, 2005, 7:14 PM
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Eldo a pile? Yeah I thought so too after topping out on the Naked Edge a few weeks back! :lol:


That may be so, but it's one of the few routes that are generally clean. Hell it's the only route in the Canyon that even comes close to being "long".

Eldo is just not even close to world class when compared with Yosemite, Red Rock, or RMNP.


josh


petsfed


Oct 26, 2005, 8:18 PM
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My favorites so far:

Indian Creek (at least the shorter routes, there's only so many of the same jam I'm willing to do)
Castle Valley
Eldo
Needles of South Dakota
Devil's Tower
Joshua Tree

At least for the places I've been to.

Vedauwoo is good, but its like JTree without all of the good bouldering and face climbs.


Partner cracklover


Oct 26, 2005, 9:05 PM
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I've had limited experiences. But of the places mentioned that I've been to, I'd say:

1 - Yosemite (fell in love with crack there)
2 - Red Rocks. What can I say - just outstanding long climbs.
3(tie) - The Gunks. What incredible face climbs - nowhere else comes close.
3(tie) - Indian Creek. If you combined IC and the Gunks, I'd put it that conjoined crag at the top of the list.
4 - Precipice cliffs (Acadia NP). Top notch clean granite multi pitch climbing.
5 - J-tree. Cool place, a lot of super climbs, but, I dunno, just too much like a bunch of overgrown boulders.

I haven't yet climbed in Eldo, RMNP, Devil's Tower, Seneca, Tetons, or Needles (or crag Y, for that matter!)

They're all on my must-go list, though! So much rock, so yummy!

GO


climbingbums


Oct 26, 2005, 9:09 PM
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i dunno... thats a tough one. wait a sec, no its not. its the creek. nothing compares to indian creeks perfect jams, amazing atmosphere, amazing weather, seclusion, and the fact that if you open the guidebook and go somewhere other than supercrack or battle of the bulge you wont see a soul. and with a little trudge, countless first ascents await. im about to cream my panties just thinking about it.

bobby


golsen


Oct 26, 2005, 9:16 PM
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come on guys! Nobody is up for the Black Canyon? A true test of trad climbing ability can be found for nearly anyone.....The good thing is there are many great places! You almost have to break it down into Best one pitch, Best Alpine Trad, and Best Multipitch trad....


mountainstuss


Oct 29, 2005, 9:41 PM
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To throw some other areas out there (yeah yeah josh, the valley, tetons...)

Granite Mountain, AZ
The High Sierra
Lovers Leap, CA


brutusofwyde


Oct 30, 2005, 5:28 PM
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Bckcountry climbing:
High Sierra
Wind Rivers
Idaho Sawtooths
Tetons
RMNP
North Cascades

Cragging and/or long routes, camp at the car:
JT
City of Rocks
Red Rocks
Gunks
Wild Granites
Vedawoo
Yosemite
Black Canyon
Moab and vicinity
Indian Creek
Sierra East Side and Southern Sierra
Lovers' Leap
Devil's Tower


blouderk2


Oct 30, 2005, 8:35 PM
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The Valley and Jtree are great.


mattm


Nov 7, 2005, 1:28 PM
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C'mmon people - two of the best areas are missing!

Cathedral/Whitehorse

and

Squamish!

I favor them over the crowded Valley (Blasphemy! I know!)


scrapedape


Nov 7, 2005, 1:49 PM
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In reply to:
I'd like to see what people think about the various trad climbing crags around this great country.

Ok, the title didn't say "crags," but the OP's opening sentence did.

And last time I checked, Squamish wasn't in this country, "51st State" jokes aside.


cchas


Nov 9, 2005, 6:21 AM
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To bad Squamish isn't 50 miles south, since it probably would be the best in the US (weather aside)

1) Indian Creek
2) Tuolumne
3) Yosemite
4) Red Rocks
5) City of Rocks (lot like JT but far better quality rock, more like Tuoloumne
6) Paradise Forks (too bad it isn't 5 times the size- since you can outclimb it too fast but the quality is amazing)
7) Cathedral (North Conway- IMHO far bettter then the Gunks)


thinman13


Nov 9, 2005, 7:28 AM
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Without having been to Yosemite or other stellar northern California venues:

1. The Black Canyon - simply the best I've been to!
2. Desert Towers - perhaps the most adventurous of all??
3. Indian Creek - crack kingdom
4. Cannon cliff in NH - some of the best granite anywhere (where it's good)
5. Cathedral / Whitehorse - AWESOME
6. Gunks - overhanging bomber quartzite face!
7. Red Rocks - has it all
8. JTree - totally vast!
9. The Daks - fantastic
10. Vedawoo - sick, king of like a high-country JTree

That's my list...the two best cragging (multipitch not a criteria) areas in my opinion are the Gunks and the Creek. I just went to the Creek last weekend for the first time and it BLEW ME AWAY...walk around the corner to the next long, perfect, geometrically perfect splitter...the humblest of climbs there is a three-star centerpiece at any other area.


dps


Nov 13, 2005, 7:39 AM
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That may be so, but it's one of the few routes that are generally clean. Hell it's the only route in the Canyon that even comes close to being "long".

Eldo is just not even close to world class when compared with Yosemite, Red Rock, or RMNP.

josh

Generally clean? How about the Yellow Spur, most of the Redgarden wall, the West Ridge, and the Bastille?

And if you want longer routes, why not link climbs? We did Long John Wall, hiked off the backside, simuled Swanson's Arete, downclimbed the east slabs, and then did Wind Ridge for a nice long day out.

Eldo is one of the best trad areas IMHO. It forces you to improve your footwork and nut craft, rewarding you with some amazing climbs.

My list would be:
Yosemite
Eldo
Tahquitz
Red Rocks
Vedauwoo


flamer


Nov 13, 2005, 5:58 PM
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In reply to:
Generally clean? How about the Yellow Spur, most of the Redgarden wall, the West Ridge, and the Bastille?

And if you want longer routes, why not link climbs? We did Long John Wall, hiked off the backside, simuled Swanson's Arete, downclimbed the east slabs, and then did Wind Ridge for a nice long day out.

Eldo is one of the best trad areas IMHO. It forces you to improve your footwork and nut craft, rewarding you with some amazing climbs.

My list would be:
Yosemite
Eldo
Tahquitz
Red Rocks
Vedauwoo

Dude!! Red garden wall?? Ever heard of a feature called red ledge? Or how about several other huge LOOSE ledges on red garden?

Eldo is loose.

Yeah yeah link-ups in eldo been there, done that....

I'm not saying Eldo isn't a great place to climb, because I do like to climb there. But compared to alot of the other areas listed Eldo is a pile.

josh


dps


Nov 14, 2005, 6:10 AM
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Dude!! Red garden wall?? Ever heard of a feature called red ledge? Or how about several other huge LOOSE ledges on red garden?

Eldo is loose.

Yeah yeah link-ups in eldo been there, done that....

I'm not saying Eldo isn't a great place to climb, because I do like to climb there. But compared to alot of the other areas listed Eldo is a pile.

josh

The ledges are loose sure, but the the climbs themsleves are superb.

Eh, to each their own.


lemon_boy


Nov 14, 2005, 8:47 AM
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i have to agree, eldo is one of the most over rated areas in NA. 30 feet of climbing, 30 feet of scrambling, repeat.... crowded. tons of booty though!

best trad?

the creek (or anywhere in the desert for that matter)
squamish (almost yosemite without the hassle)
vedauwoo (kicks J Trees' ass in my opinion)
gunks
the black
t-wall


soulsurfer


Nov 14, 2005, 8:50 AM
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Mission gorge, California
Taylor Falls, MN
Christmas Tree pass, NV

Yos, J-tree, Eldo are over protected, fluff graded glory spots.


michaelmay513


Nov 14, 2005, 9:13 AM
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How about Idaho,

1. City of Rocks National Reserve
2. Castle Rocks State Park


"There is much more than just potatos here"

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