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Best Trad Areas in USA?
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koko


Dec 14, 2005, 10:50 AM
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Vedauwoo-bomber gear, awesome lines, many possibilities
Devils Tower-haven't climbed it yet but man am I itching to go there (although it's frozen solid now)


iamcolinslack


Dec 19, 2005, 1:16 PM
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North Carolina as a whole. Everything you could ever want. Big ass stuff in the southwest near Cashiers. Aid, Trad, Slab at Looking Glass, Linville is always an adventure. Hard Sport in the Piedmont. I love my home.


kydd76


Dec 26, 2005, 5:39 AM
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This is like asking who? In Hollywood actresses is the hottest. There all hot, for all kind of very different reasons. Tall blonde, dark and mysterious, looks like the girl next door, and the list goes on and on.
Long granite, clean Yosemite and broken RMNP.
Older History Hemp ropes and body belay Seneca and Devils Tower.
New History Spandex tights and heady routes Gunk’s and Eldo.
Then it all becomes what is your favorite taste. Josh and the needles in Cali and or South Dakota. The Red River gorge in KY. The black canyon in CO. Then there is the new river gorge, some of the best trad around but every one forgets to climb it because of the great sport. Tennessee wall and Red rocks NV. I can go on and on. But do have to say they all climb different and have great local and national lore. So fill up the tank on you truck are car. Head out with a good partner I.E. one you can travel all summer with and go. You will find things you like about all of these places, and see America at the same time. If I missed some other areas I am sorry. Aka Rock City, Boulder canyon, Battle rock, South Platte, Indian creek, Monument Colorado, and the list goes on.


mowz


Dec 26, 2005, 9:25 AM
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The Gunks.


warthog


Dec 29, 2005, 4:41 PM
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has anybody mentioned Devil's Lake? generations have learned here before heading out for the mountains.


warthog


Dec 29, 2005, 4:42 PM
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has anybody mentioned Devil's Lake? generations have learned here before heading out for the mountains.


climbinhigh18


Dec 29, 2005, 4:57 PM
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The Shawangunks


Partner euroford


Dec 30, 2005, 7:14 AM
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just for the hell of it, i ran a quick tabulation of the results. these may not be pefectly adiquate, but generally speaking if an area was mentioned (in a posative light) than it got a tick mark. I may not be knowedgeable about all of the areas, just post up if i need to correct anything.

Yos: 22
Gunks: 16
Red Rocks: 14
Indian creek: 13
J Tree: 11
Eldo/Boulder Area: 8
Needles: 7

RMNP: 6

Devils Tower: 5
Vedauwuo: 5
Black Canyon: 5

Tetons: 4

City of Rocks: 3
Tennesse Wall: 3
North Conway: 3
New River Gorge: 3

Moab Area: 2
Linville Gorge: 2
Lumpy Ridge: 2
Tahquitz: 2
Cochise: 2
Cottenwood Canyons: 2
Seneca: 2
Lovers Leap: 2
High Sierra: 2
Wind Rivers: 2
Cathedral/Whitehorse: 2
Squamish: 2

Monument Valley: 1
Sawtooths: 1
North Cascades: 1
Wild Granite: 1
Granite Mountain: 1
Castle Valley: 1
Acadia NP: 1
Willow Peak: 1
Red River Gorge: 1
Tolumne: 1
Devils Lake: 1
Donner: 1
Taylor Falls: 1
Mission Gorge: 1
Daks: 1
Cannon Cliff: 1
Desert Towers: 1
Christmass Tree Pass: 1
Castle Rocks: 1
Lone Peak: 1
Looking Glass: 1


sactownclimber


Dec 30, 2005, 7:39 AM
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Red Rocks is my favorite so far, and Lover's Leap is in my backyard, so I gotta give it the obligatory nod . . .


chossmonkey


Dec 30, 2005, 7:54 AM
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In reply to:
Why do the Gunks keep coming up? It may be good climbing but anyplace you have to pay to climb seems like a GYM to me thus the gunks are no longer TRADITIONAL climbing! Therefore they are disqualified!

Looks like Yosemite and many of the other "trad" areas need to be scratched off the list. :cry:


Thank you pipsqueekspire for keeping us all honest.


climbinhigh18


Dec 30, 2005, 12:26 PM
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O.K. ye your right... there are no hanging belays off natty gear anymore, LOL.


ikellen


Jan 6, 2006, 9:04 PM
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Eldo
Jtree
Yosemite
Gunks

Beyond that, I don't see any standouts. Eldo is really head and shoulders above due to the sheer number of routes and pitches, many of which are classic. Jtree is close, but almost all routes are single pitch, some even short for single pitch routes. If you could stack multiple jtree routes on top of each other, then it would be above eldo.


locker


Jan 6, 2006, 11:01 PM
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to just say Yosimite is to do the entire Sierra MOuntain range a disservice IMO... so my favorites are


Sierra Mountains
Taquitz
Jtree
Gunks


jaybro


Jan 7, 2006, 9:49 PM
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"Devils Tower-haven't climbed it yet but man am I itching to go there (although it's frozen solid now) "

-temps in the fifties last week - ideal conditions!


pico23


Jan 10, 2006, 8:33 PM
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Daks...definitely best in the northeast (Gunks a close second)

Even though I don't love the Gunks i don't see anyway it can't be on everyones list who has been there. A lot of places with longer routes, perhaps more routes, but few with consistently solid 3 pitch routes. And if you leave the Trapps the variety is excellent. You can even find choss and loose rock if you try. Suits everyones needs.

Seneca is in with the above but more like the Gunks than the Daks. In reference to an above post, aren't the Gunks older historically than seneca? I thought seneca had it's historical hey day during WWII and later. A lot of the stuff in the Gunks was put up before that.


pico23


Jan 10, 2006, 9:01 PM
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In reply to:
Why do the Gunks keep coming up? It may be good climbing but anyplace you have to pay to climb seems like a GYM to me thus the gunks are no longer TRADITIONAL climbing! Therefore they are disqualified!
It just pissed me off that I had to pay to jump around a few rocks!

One of my faves that has not been mentioned is Seneca! Great vibe FUN climbs and a sense of adventure only 200 yards from a cold beer.

My other faves includes any desert tower, tons of places in the sierra that no one has mentioned and of course my home crags of Jtree and Tahquitz

-pip

Ummm, just wondering but doesn't JTree charge an entrance fee?

You pay like $100 for the year at the gunks...if you climb a lot (2 days a week) it can be as little as $1 a day...if you climb every day it's less then 30 cents. And if you climb once in a blue moon $10 ain't gonna kill you. BTW, it's not hard to skirt the fee without trying too hard but even my cheap ass would feel like a scumbag cheating private owners out of a few bucks that they put back into the preserve (rescue gear, climbing rangers, ect.). Now you'll rarely see me pay a government fee without bitching moaning and trying every last way to get out of it.

Quit crying.

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