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tradrenn
Nov 5, 2005, 12:08 AM
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Couple months ago I got my cam stack on one of the climbs at Gunks.
Guy named Mat went up after me and clean it for me.
( Thanks man )
His trick was to use two nut tools.
( It cost me a 6 pack, cheaper then a cam for sure and I was glad to do it)
I tried his way later on when I got my cam stuck at the local crag and it works. I cleaned my cam on rappel and pull one side of cam at the time. ( I walked it backwards )
8^)
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gullwing19
Nov 5, 2005, 1:18 AM
Post #27 of 97
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moron alert?
ha ha ....that made me chuckle. If pulling all of your "fixed" cams out cause your too much of a....well....moron...to learn how to place them correctly.....then I'm guilty as charged. Oh and by the way....I don't think I've ever rescued a cam that was smaller than a #2 camalot. It's consitantly the big stuff that I see fixed.
Once again, thanks.
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gullwing19
Nov 5, 2005, 1:26 AM
Post #28 of 97
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Isn't it also funny when someone asks advice (caughtinsideorwhatever) and then gets all bent out of shape when they get some constructive criticism that implies a slight lack of skill?
If you get your cams stuck you need to learn how to place them better. End of story. It's kinda simple if you ask me. But go ahead and get all heated because someone questions your pro placing skill.
If you knew the answer and you're such a great climber then why did you post the original post in the first place. Internet posting boards are funny like that I guess.
Can I say it again? LEARN TO PLACE GEAR PROPERLY AND YOU WONT HAVE THIS PROBLEM
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gunksgoer
Nov 5, 2005, 1:37 AM
Post #29 of 97
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The only cam ive ever fixed was a crappy trango flexcam that i got used for like 20 bucks. Oh but its not fixed on a climb, its fixed in the rafters in a room of my house. What a piece.
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gullwing19
Nov 5, 2005, 3:17 AM
Post #30 of 97
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Well Caughtinside,
You've got me. You asked a question that you already knew the answer to. And expected us all to .....well i'm not quite sure. Let me just rephrase your original question if you don't mind, for the purpose of making things a little easier.
"Um guys, yeah, um I get a little nervous when I climb something hard and so when I place pro I fumble around, swear alot, and over cam my cams. What should I do?"
Can you see the reason for my simple response? Yes, in one of my posts I basically said "doing it wrong?..well do it right!" Because it's kinda that simple.
In a wide crack you have many options:
1. Climb more wide routes to gain more confidence with that technique
2. Place pro that you can see. I don't think I've ever reached WAY above my head and blindly placed a cam. For gods sake climb up to the placement or place it lower down where you can make sure it's butta.
3. (reverting back to my original post) Just learn to place pro correctly. You already know what you're doing wrong and what you need to do to do it right. The next logical step would be to do it right. Don't you agree?
Am I missing something here? Or are you just a post whore who likes to ramble?
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caughtinside
Nov 5, 2005, 3:55 AM
Post #31 of 97
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In reply to: Isn't it also funny when someone asks advice (caughtinsideorwhatever) and then gets all bent out of shape when they get some constructive criticism that implies a slight lack of skill? If you get your cams stuck you need to learn how to place them better. End of story. It's kinda simple if you ask me. But go ahead and get all heated because someone questions your pro placing skill. If you knew the answer and you're such a great climber then why did you post the original post in the first place. Internet posting boards are funny like that I guess. Can I say it again? LEARN TO PLACE GEAR PROPERLY AND YOU WONT HAVE THIS PROBLEM
Hey, look who likes to post before they finished reading the thread! :)
You see, your last post was informative. The rest missed the point.
And yeah, I did 'already know the answer.' It wasn't really much of a question. I posted about my recent experience with wide cracks, seeking to prompt a discussion.
And got a lot of "learn to place pro properly" in response.
WHat a waste of time! :D
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gullwing19
Nov 5, 2005, 4:47 AM
Post #32 of 97
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"any thoughts?" was the last line on your original post.
That doesn't look like a rhetorical question to me. Jokes on me i guess...I thought you were looking for opinions / advice / answers / whatever. You don't want peoples two cents? Don't ask for it. Once again, kinda simple don't you think?
You should really learn not only to place pro but to play nice also. I thought that would have been something your mommy should have taught you from an early age but I guess you missed out on that lesson. When I see her tonight I'll be sure to tell her shes been a bad, bad girl.
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gullwing19
Nov 5, 2005, 4:15 PM
Post #33 of 97
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C'mon Caughtinside.....no retort?
I gave you a valid point in my initial response and you were a dick about it. And damnit I'm calling you out on it.
Are you just an internet post whore who finds satisfaction by beginning threads that apparently have no real purpose in an attempt to stroke your own feeble and waning ego?
Or is it maybe that your just a dick?
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gullwing19
Nov 5, 2005, 4:35 PM
Post #34 of 97
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Holy S&%$!!
I just did a little research you post whore. 3,470 posts to date and you've been a member exactly 2 years and 1 day. Lets do the math cause to tell you the truth....I don't see any free time for climbing. Here we go, try your best to follow along:
3,470 posts / 731 days = 4.7 posts per day, EVERY day for two years.
It is becoming a little more clear to me now.
I would you like to apologize for being a dick. That is all and then I'll stop. I am rather enjoying this little tiff however I'm prepared to throw sand in each others faces all you want. When it comes down to it, I WILL be the last kid in the sandbox and you'll be the crying little bitch that you are.
Now...I'm waiting.........
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gullwing19
Nov 5, 2005, 4:37 PM
Post #35 of 97
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Holy S&%$!!
I just did a little research you post whore. 3,470 posts to date and you've been a member exactly 2 years and 1 day. Lets do the math cause to tell you the truth....I don't see any free time for climbing. Here we go, try your best to follow along:
3,470 posts / 731 days = 4.7 posts per day, EVERY day for two years.
It is becoming a little more clear to me now.
I would you like to apologize for being a dick. That is all and then I'll stop. I am rather enjoying this little tiff however I'm prepared to throw sand in each others faces all you want. When it comes down to it, I WILL be the last kid in the sandbox and you'll be the crying little bitch that you are.
Now...I'm waiting.........
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dirtineye
Nov 5, 2005, 5:16 PM
Post #36 of 97
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Hey Caughtinzipper, about the only good advice (for NOT getting cams stuck) I've seen in this thread so far is that when you place cams in a panic, you can lose em. So don't do that.
Here's one more bit.
When you place a cam, retract the triggers ALMOST as far as they will go, place the cam, and do NOT push it in any further than the ALMOST fully retracted lobes will allow.
Pushing a cam in hastily (as opposed to placing it carefully and feeling for the lobes to touch) leads to trouble. This is often what happens in a panic, but then I think you know that already.
General delicacy when placing cams, knowing what leads to walking (flares and tapers among other things), longer slings, a good second and a few other things have already been covered.
I never had a problem getting large cams stuck, but then I don't slide em up cracks either.
I think I'd just ignore gullwing.
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boltdude
Nov 5, 2005, 5:48 PM
Post #37 of 97
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A big cause of very stuck cams (often the sort that no one will ever get out) is having the cams pulled into the crack by the rope. It can easily happen when a crack goes lower angle at the top, or if the crack is inset at an angle. With experience (or just by thinking about it while you climb), you can often spot these problem spots and place cams in the correct places, and/or use long slings and flip the rope to the side of the crack (especially useful on the last pro placements on a crack just before it tops out).
As far as number of cams retrieved - yesterday I bootied my 40th cam. In all fairness, about half were not "stuck" cams, but left as retreat anchors, to back up really bad anchors, etc. And 4 or 5 of those were trashed beyond even aid use.
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saxfiend
Nov 5, 2005, 5:55 PM
Post #38 of 97
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In reply to: I would you like to apologize for being a dick. That is all and then I'll stop. I am rather enjoying this little tiff however I'm prepared to throw sand in each others faces all you want. When it comes down to it, I WILL be the last kid in the sandbox and you'll be the crying little b---- that you are. Now...I'm waiting......... In reply to: C'mon Caughtinside.....no retort? In reply to: You should really learn not only to place pro but to play nice also. I thought that would have been something your mommy should have taught you from an early age but I guess you missed out on that lesson. When I see her tonight I'll be sure to tell her shes been a bad, bad girl.
The simple fact is that you could have avoided this pissing match if you hadn't given such a patronizing initial response. Nobody likes being told they're making a "beginner mistake," especially by someone whose own experience level is unknown (nothing in your profile, I see). Read the post by dirtineye for an example of a mature and helpful response. Of course, your posts make it clear that you didn't care about being helpful, and they certainly aren't mature.
Take several deep breaths and let it go.
JL
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gullwing19
Nov 5, 2005, 5:55 PM
Post #39 of 97
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Hey!!! Who is deleting my posts? WTF is that all about?
Are there some censorship nazis here?
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gullwing19
Nov 5, 2005, 6:12 PM
Post #40 of 97
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Yes. Maybe it is a bit personal. I'm tired of people getting on here being pricks like that because they can hide behind a computer screen. I guarantee you that he wouldn't have said something like that to me in person....than why say it here?
Of course no one likes being told that they are making a beginner mistake, myself included, but we all make them. This came down to a dick that couldn't take constructive criticism, admittedly the criticism was a bit patronizing, but once again sum up his original post and you'll see that he knows what his problem is...he knows what causes the problem...and he knows how to correct the problem. And then he asks for advice?
Then what was the purpose of the original post? Of course someone was going to point out that.....um....doing it correctly (like his delicious mommy does) would be his next logical step.
It was obvious that he only wanted someone to agree with him and he took shots at the first person who rubbed him wrong.
As far as my skill level goes.......I've never got a cam stuck in 10 years of placing em. That should be all you need to know.
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gullwing19
Nov 5, 2005, 6:19 PM
Post #41 of 97
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And Sax,
If you wouldn't mind reading dirtineyeorwhaters first post on the subject you will find that it said nothing other than "moron alert" with my initial post quoted.
Tell me how that is either mature or helpful?
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iltripp
Nov 5, 2005, 6:26 PM
Post #42 of 97
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In reply to: Yes. Maybe it is a bit personal. I'm tired of people getting on here being pricks like that because they can hide behind a computer screen. I guarantee you that he wouldn't have said something like that to me in person....than why say it here?
Please go back and re-read the posts on the past two pages. For accusing someone of being a dick, you don't have much to stand on...
Who is hiding behind a computer screen?
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gullwing19
Nov 5, 2005, 7:24 PM
Post #43 of 97
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Oh I'm the biggest dick you'll ever meet my friend. I wholeheartedly agree with you on that one.
Difference is I don't start things. My initial post was curt and to the point and I was called a moron because of it? And nobody, I mean nobody questions my reading ability. That's where I draw the line.
All I wanted was a simple apology.
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iltripp
Nov 5, 2005, 7:29 PM
Post #44 of 97
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In reply to: Oh I'm the biggest dick you'll ever meet my friend. I wholeheartedly agree with you on that one. Difference is I don't start things. My initial post was curt and to the point and I was called a moron because of it? And nobody, I mean nobody questions my reading ability. That's where I draw the line.
:roll: Tough guy, huh? :roll:
In reply to: All I wanted was a simple apology.
I wouldn't hold your breath...
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gullwing19
Nov 5, 2005, 7:42 PM
Post #45 of 97
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I never claimed to be tough, only to be a dick. If something needs to be said, I'll say it. And no I'm not going to hold my breath.
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dirtineye
Nov 5, 2005, 8:07 PM
Post #46 of 97
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The moron alert has gone from an alert to a warning.
PS whining for an apology on the internet is bad form.
PPS I called you a moron because you made a moronic post. MANY climbers with far more experience and FA route credit than you have prefer cams that are as 'over-cammed' as they can be and still be gotten back out. More than one such climber will tell you that there is no such thing as over-cammed, unles the cam becomes fixed.
DOH, I should take my own advice.
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caughtinside
Nov 5, 2005, 9:02 PM
Post #47 of 97
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In reply to: but once again sum up his original post and you'll see that he knows what his problem is...he knows what causes the problem...and he knows how to correct the problem. And then he asks for advice?
Gullwing, I addressed this big issue of yours at least twice in this thread.
And you're right, nobody did question your reading ability. I questioned your reading comprehension. And I still do, because you paint yourself as more of a fucking idiot with each post you make.
Keep going, it's pretty pathetic. Are you actually making mommy jokes now?
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pk
Nov 5, 2005, 9:30 PM
Post #48 of 97
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In reply to: All I wanted was a simple apology.
Suck it up buttercup.
P.K.
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tradrenn
Nov 8, 2005, 2:56 AM
Post #49 of 97
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In reply to: Yes. Maybe it is a bit personal. I'm tired of people getting on here being pricks like that because they can hide behind a computer screen. I guarantee you that he wouldn't have said something like that to me in person....than why say it here?
And I hate dickheads like you.
At this moment I'm being a prick just like you, but I'm a prick only to you "Dear Dickhead", cause the only person that is hiding behind a computer screen is YOU.
C'mon Dear Dickhead, be brave show us where you live, like most of us do. Are you chicken or what ?
Wait.
You are afraid that someone will kick your ass for posting bunch of crap on the net, aren't ya?
Loser, where is your profile ?
Oops I'm so sorry I forgot that Dickheads don't have one.
I also hope that I hurt your feelings, if you have any.
In reply to: As far as my skill level goes.......I've never got a cam stuck in 10 years of placing em. That should be all you need to know.
I didn't know that Dickheads can be this smart.
8^)
P.S. Spraying is not cool wo/man, whatever you are.
Good Day Dear Dickhead.
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lajhanata
Nov 8, 2005, 3:55 AM
Post #50 of 97
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Seems to me that most of the booty cams I get are little single axle buggers. I've never scored a big piece like a 3.5 or 4 camalot- never even seen one. Mine are always things like a .5 Friend from 1991 with a faded leash and lots of dents in it from other people banging on it.
That said, maybe you have the same problem I have in the big sizes. Mondo cams ain't cheap, and I don't place them that often, thus I don't have very many. In fact, I've got one 3, one 3.5, and one 4.5 camalot- that's it. So when I'm exuding frictionless slime from every poor in my body, I'm smearing on dime-thick crumble-flakes, I've already plugged the 3.5 a few meters down, and I REALLY need another 3.5, guess what I do. I crank that 4.5 down past where the cable attaches to thumb spot and MAKE that heavy bastard fit. In this case, the 4.5 is on it's way to becoming an antique anyway, so I don't cry about it. I haven't lost it yet, but you get the idea. Maybe filling out your rack in the big sizes would make you placements better.
Of course, maybe it's just more booty for the rest of us.
Personally, I think it's easier to get big pieces out because I can get my hand in there and fiddle. I think a lot of failed retrieval is the cause of frustration and when you start to find it hard to see the cam lobes because of the glare off the blood streaks you just left, that's a little frustrating. Usually that's not as much of a problem on the wide stuff.
From what people are saying about the frequency of big cams getting stuck, I'll slate a few off-widths for this weekend. If anybody's having trouble with their number 4, don't ruin your day fighting it for twenty minutes. Plenty of us out there will appreciate it.
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